Hydraulic Ebrake install

[KlutchKickrr]

Hello everyone,

I might have some issues with the Isis hydraulic ebrake that I have install, and it might have to do with the way I routed the lines. If any of you have done a hydraulic e brake install with a bypass could you please direct me as to how the routing of the lines should be. Thank you.

-Orlando

[jbretz]

first off how did you run the lines currently? straight from the master cylinder or tap in through the lines?

[KlutchKickrr]

from BMC to front port on the cylinder for the hydraulic ebrake, and from the rear port of the ebrake to hard lines for rear brakes

[twinspool]

I have the line from the bmc going to the rear port of the cylinder, furthest from the handle, and the front port line, closest to the handle, goes to the rear.

[KlutchKickrr]

and its working fine? No leaks coming from the lines off of the hydraulic ebrake?

[EvoVIII808]

is yours just leaking?

[KlutchKickrr]

When I was bleeding my brakes, pumping the brake pedal caused no leaks in the lines coming off of the hydraulic ebrake. However, when I pumped the ebrake itself there was a bit of a leak from the line going to the BMC. The leak was coming from where the mesh material of the line meets the metal of the fitting. The other line was fine though. I think it might be due to the improper routing.

[twinspool]

It was leaking a little before I put some red thread locker on the adapter fitting. I used a honda cylinder and my friend made the bracket. Used teflon tape on the brake line fittings themselves and no leaks anymore. Works great! Try swapping the lines on the cylinder and see if that works but if it is leaking how you say, its a problem with the line.

[KlutchKickrr]

Ill definitely give that at try, thank you!! Hopefully Ill have some free time soon to get this done. Thanks for the help and info, Ill try to get back with an update as soon as I can.

[twinspool]

You get back with updates right NOW!!!! lol jk

[KlutchKickrr]

UPDATE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Alright, so I just got back from working on the brake lines and hydraulic EB. Issue number one: leaks from fittings. This issue has been solved. As it turns out I didn't flare the end of the brake lines correctly. For those of you that have flared your own brake lines, when using the flaring kit you are meant to have the line fed through the kit a certain length. When I did the lines for the rear I fed them through too much, causing the flares to come out all fucked up. I got new lines and flared them properly, now there are no leaks from the fittings. Hooray!!

Issue number two: proper routing for hydraulic e-brake. You guys were definitely right. I wound up switching the lines; having the front port of the hydraulic ebrake (the one closest to the handle) go to the rear brake lines, and the rear port of the EB go to the BMC. Everything seems to be working great!! Although there is some air left in the brake system, which I have to bleed again the next time I have some time off. I did find out something interesting though.

While still having the lines set up as I did before, front port to BMC and rear port to rear brake lines, I discovered that if you have the brake pedal down, and pull on the EB, it forces the brake pedal back up. That is a big NO GO, and should be an indication that the lines are not set up properly. Aside from me having the bleed the system some more everything else seems to be working properly: no leaking from the fittings and hydraulic e-brake is pumping fluid to the rear brakes ONLY. Thank you all for the input and information. Now time to finish this fucking car up soon and go fuck shit up!!!!

-Orlando

[Drifting Kalamari]

Awesome! Glad you got it working, let us know how well it works when you get it all up and running

[KlutchKickrr]

I think that its about time that I update this post. Its been a while and the hydraulic e-brake is finally working correctly (more or less). One of the lines coming off of my e-brake is leaking, but that is due to a faulty product and I am looking into getting that replaced soon.

Anyway, for those of you looking to get a bypass type hydraulic e-brake installed in your car I have but one bit of advice for you: Don't do it. The reason why I say this is because I feel that the benefits of an separate, independent hydraulic e-brake setup far outweigh how much money you would save in taking the bypass route.

Hell, even if your car has a regular cable e-brake setup that would be a lot better. If that's the case I would stick to that. Unfortunately, the bypass type hydraulic e-brake, although easy to install, is also very easy to fuck up. Any problems with the plumbing of that e-brake and your entire brake system goes to shit.

Having a setup where you do not have to tap into the main lines for your brakes is definitely a lot better. If I were to does this again I would definitely take that route. I say just save for the dual caliper bracket, extra pair of calipers, and extra pair of pads. However, if you are gonna take the bypass hydraulic e-brake route I would recommend that you LET A PROFESSIONAL INSTALL IT!!! (Unless you yourself are a professional, if so then carry on) I don't need to emphasize how important brakes are (duh).

Anyway, there are my two cents, for what its worth. Hope this information helps anyone of you people out there. Cheers.

[stephens14sr]

I did mine correctly, and have yet to have an issue, and that's with custom bent lines and flared fittings. If you don't install the product correctly of course there will be issues, if you do, you'll have none......

[KlutchKickrr]

Yeah, that applies to anything really. But I am glad to see that yours is working properly. I need to replace that faulty line, and then mount the e-brake itself a more sturdier fashion. Also, turns out that my rear calipers were on the wrong side, herpaderp. That, however, has been remedied. Once everything else is sorted out though it should be good to go.