Clutch slip with sr swap?

[TTZ33]

New member here. I swapped my sr from coup to my hatch. Clutch slipped a day or two later. So I put in a new one. Now this one is slipping and only drove the car 45 miles. Not beating it and its only a stock boost sr. The driveshaft looks like it sticks out more than I remember but both cars are non abs. Driveshaft is same one that was if the coup. Nico fest is this weekend and I need to get it going by tomorrow. Any help to include bashing me is appreciated.

[DennisC]

Did you adjust your clutch pedal?

[shiftdrift]

what slave cylinder are you using? you can't use a stock ka slave cylinder, it will put too much pressure on it and cause it to slip.

[Sileighty_85]

Did you adjust your clutch pedal?

what slave cylinder are you using? you can't use a stock ka slave cylinder, it will put too much pressure on it and cause it to slip.


WTF These responses make no sense what so ever....

Clutch pedal adjustment makes no difference for when the clutch is engaged..

Slave cylinder makes no sense since the SR and KA one are the same once again does not matter once the clutch is engaged...


What clutch are you using and how much Torque is your SR making? and you do know there is a break in period longer than 45 miles.

[shiftdrift]

WTF These responses make no sense what so ever....

Clutch pedal adjustment makes no difference for when the clutch is engaged..

Slave cylinder makes no sense since the SR and KA one are the same once again does not matter once the clutch is engaged...


What clutch are you using and how much Torque is your SR making? and you do know there is a break in period longer than 45 miles.
slave cylinder actually does make sense, i know from experience (not the internet, actual working on a car) that a ka slave cylinder will not work with an sr, the piston is too long and keeps the clutch engaged a bit, causing the clutch to slip on throttle. i had to grind mine down roughly 1/4" for it to stop slipping, and that did completely solve it. anyways, you need to break in your clutch roughly 3-500 miles before actually boosting, did you re-surface the flywheel?

[KiLLeR2001]

Anyone have pictures of SR next to KA slave cylinder? I've never heard of such differences before. Hell, Nismo offers the same slave cylinder for both KA/SR.

ps. I'm using a KA slave cylinder on my SR right now with no issues.

[fliprayzin240sx]

WTF These responses make no sense what so ever....

Clutch pedal adjustment makes no difference for when the clutch is engaged..

Slave cylinder makes no sense since the SR and KA one are the same once again does not matter once the clutch is engaged...


What clutch are you using and how much Torque is your SR making? and you do know there is a break in period longer than 45 miles.

Only thing is if the engagement is too high on the pedal, that you could potentially preloading the clutch. I've seen it happen once, adjusted the pedal engagement point lower and fixed the slipping issue.

slave cylinder actually does make sense, i know from experience (not the internet, actual working on a car) that a ka slave cylinder will not work with an sr, the piston is too long and keeps the clutch engaged a bit, causing the clutch to slip on throttle. i had to grind mine down roughly 1/4" for it to stop slipping, and that did completely solve it. anyways, you need to break in your clutch roughly 3-500 miles before actually boosting, did you re-surface the flywheel?

KA and SR slaves are the exactly the same. Your issue is probably the TOB. TOB/carrier might have been shorter or taller.

[Sileighty_85]

Only thing is if the engagement is too high on the pedal, that you could potentially preloading the clutch. I've seen it happen once, adjusted the pedal engagement point lower and fixed the slipping issue.

.
hmmm I dont knooowwww.....

The only way I could see that happening is if he adjusted the pedal after installation.

Cuz if it was like that before then he wouldnt be able to install the Slave cuz it wouldnt be allowed to compress it to bolt it down.

But i have seen some crazy shit before. lol

[EDacIouSX]

are you sure there is a clutch disk between the pressure plate and flywheel?

sorry, everyone else is trolling today so I just needed to get my troll in... If you have a new clutch, don't forget the flywheel may be worn down too much. you may need a new flywheel.

[TTZ33]

Thanks for all the posts! Yes! There is a clutch plate. Both on the old and new. The "NEW" is a stock SR clutch, plate and wheel from a black top I picked up last year. Its "Like New" already broken in. The old clutch is an exidy. Three puck with matching plate. Stock fly wheel. Not the same stock fly wheel as the one I trued after the first slipping. The slave cylinder is KA. As is the clutch pedal. The engagement is at the top. Almost all the way out. I have a act six puck with plate and Fidanza wheel in the garage but its a trends. Its most likely going on tonight but adjustment seems like the best bet. I ran the 3one puck with no problems until I switched what car it was in.

[bookoo]

What year is the car?

Sohc cars have a different slave cylinder than dohc cars...I use a dohc...measure them then talk to me.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Thanks for all the posts! Yes! There is a clutch plate. Both on the old and new. The "NEW" is a stock SR clutch, plate and wheel from a black top I picked up last year. Its "Like New" already broken in. The old clutch is an exidy. Three puck with matching plate. Stock fly wheel. Not the same stock fly wheel as the one I trued after the first slipping. The slave cylinder is KA. As is the clutch pedal. The engagement is at the top. Almost all the way out. I have a act six puck with plate and Fidanza wheel in the garage but its a trends. Its most likely going on tonight but adjustment seems like the best bet. I ran the 3one puck with no problems until I switched what car it was in.

Wow. I'm new and I'll admit to being shadetree at beat, and dangerous at worst, but my clutch grabs to low that I stall with a bit of frequency, and I've been driving a stick for 12 years (like ALWAYS had a manual through that time). I have a spare slave cyl off the SR tranny I bought last summer sitting in the tool box. We'll talk turkey if anyone can confirm that you don't have the correct unit.

[TTZ33]

Swap was in a sohc car now in a Dohc car. This is not my first swap by any means but the first time this has happened. It does feel like partial engagement. Both clutches are in good shape. May sound crazy but I never adjusted a hydraulic clutch before. Never had to. Any pointers are welcome.

[TTZ33]

Slave cylinder is new. That's the only thing that makes any sense. Im gona try to grind it today. Worst I can do is waste a s/c. A shorter stroke should give a stiffer engagement. I hope.

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Fully extended, the unit on my imported tranny is ~4 3/8". I snapped a pic if you want it uploaded

[TTZ33]

4 3/8 tip to tip?

[TTZ33]

Tip to tip?

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

4 3/8 from the rear of the unit to the extended tip.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LpmrYb9A7YQ/T61WRcDAP3I/AAAAAAAACO4/dZJ_hxMSocg/s1072/2012-05-11+12.06.27-1.jpg

[TTZ33]

Ok. So I measured the shaft its self since you can compress the cylinder. It is 2 3/4 inch. I had alot of tension on it while still on the cars ar and the fork moved almost 3/4 of an inch once it was unbolted. Time to grind. Hope this is the trick.

[TTZ33]

Ok. So it took longer to put it on the lift than to fix it. You got to love days like that!

Thanks so much to SHIFTDRIFT! You nailed it. You are a giant among men.

Also thanks go out to ST3ALTHPSYCHO for parts digging and the photo! You can tell im not on Nico.

Grinder the shaft off at the end of the ball end. "1/4 inch". Then rounded it off. Clutch engages perfect!

[ST3ALTHPSYCH0]

Ok. So it took longer to put it on the lift than to fix it. You got to love days like that!

Thanks so much to SHIFTDRIFT! You nailed it. You are a giant among men.

Also thanks go out to ST3ALTHPSYCHO for parts digging and the photo! You can tell im not on Nico.

Grinder the shaft off at the end of the ball end. "1/4 inch". Then rounded it off. Clutch engages perfect!

NICE! Wish my issue were so easy :(

[Boost Barn]

Dont get the slippage with the KA slave cylinder, beacuse thats whats on my car and i ran a 50trim t3/t4 on 14psi and made 285whp and 228tq on factory clutch and KA slave cylinder, 0 slip

[Dorifto Machine]

Weird, So is it confirmed that the KA slave is different than the SR slave or is it just the tip thats slightly further out ?

Im actually about to put my SR in and have a new KA slave I was going to use from my previous KA...

Boost Barn, Are you running a Ka-t or SR20?

[Sileighty_85]

The tip to tip length is gonna vary depening on the spring inside pushing the pin outward.

You'll have to measure each part individually.

my 8 years dealing with SR's Ive never had an issue with the KA slave

[NISR20MO]

Glad you got it fixed but figured since I'm here... KA slaves are just fine on a SR, been there done that.

If your engagement is at the top of the pedal, it's not adjusted right, my whitebunny KA setup was like that when I adjusted to factory "pedal" freeplay spec (grabbed at the top, clutch assembly was much taller than stock). It was terrible to drive and slipped on my stock KA. I adjusted the clutch pedal engagement to where I liked the clutch to grab. Which put engagement pretty much a little bit closer to the floor than halfway through the pedal travel. Or right where the spring that assists with pedal return starts to work in reverse and would pull the pedal to the floor if your hydraulics weren't connected.

It grabs like a boss and drives soooo much better now.

The slave needs some freeplay before it starts pushing the clutch fork, you should be able to pull the slave pushrod out of the clutch fork dimple with your fingers ~1/3inch, and when you let it go it should stick itself right back into where it was. Have a friend adjust the rod, while you check freeplay at the slave.

[Boost Barn]

im running an s13sr20 in an s14