Getting my running SR on the road

[Matt191]

So I have finally got my SR in my 240 after two long years of working and I have a few questions that I would like cleared up if possible(yes I did search).
First of all I have an FMIC kit that has the BOV mounted on the hot side. To my knowledge shouldn't it be as close to the throttle as possible? And I have also run into the problem that when I get on my SR it tends to sputter and has a real hard time revving past four thousand RPMS. It will rev past 4k if the throttle is feathered very lightly. And here is what I've done I tested my TPS it has a normal voltage, and I have also gapped my spark plugs to .028(NGK iridiums). The last thing I checked was my MAFS, I was not sure how to read its voltage correctly but I unplugged it and the idle got smoother about 600 rpms, and the engine would rev nicely up to 2600 rpms. So am I right in saying I need a new MAFS?

[ultimateirving]

You could try replacing maf, but first try giving it a good cleaning. And also since u just got it running you MUST boost leak test it. PUT THE WHOLE SYSTEM UNDER PRESSURE.
Make sure ur BOV is opening/venting slightly under boost. leave it on the hot side, its fine there.

Do that and report back.

[Matt191]

10-4 by giving it a good cleaning what do you mean just like at the car wash? haha... And when I do boost it, it boosts fine but it'll spike and hit 10 psi, I'm not running a boost solenoid either so could that be my problem I'm just running a Hallman pro on my car.

[ultimateirving]

So, use some Electronic(maf) cleaner from vato zone. Spray that sucker real good(DO NOT TOUCH) let dry, in the mean time. Build a boost leak pressure tester. Parts can be purchased at homedepot/lowes/ace. You need some pvc pipe with similar O.D. as your inter cooler piping. Search google "how to build boost leak tester"

Boost solenoid not neccessary for normal operation.

[Matt191]

Alright I will get on this all tomorrow and get back to you and see what I come up with, just to be sure though running 10-12 psi WILL not cause this problem right?

[Matt191]

Anyone on the last question?

[ultimateirving]

Stock t25 should be fine at ~10psi, its not likely the stock wastegate actuator will hold more without a boost controlled. normally the stock waste gate levels off at 7psi. With the gap on your plugs they shud be fine for 12psi.

[Matt191]

Okay so I just tested my charge pipes and I did find some leaks which I fixed and I took it out and drove it and I'm still having the same problem it does run better but I'm having rough idles and sputtering. Not wanting to accelerate and so on thank you for the help so far any help is welcome. Thanks guys

[ShadowMan]

Did you clean your maf yet, I never thought it would make that big a difference, but it really does. Buy some MAF cleaner, like stated above, take out maf and spray down the little fillament reall good from both sides multiple times and let air dry. It'll make a difference. As far as testing for boost leaks, test the whole intercooler and piping system as one, as in disconnect cold pipe from throttle body and adequately cap and seal it, then remove the hot pipe from turbo and hook up your tester cap and pressurize. That way you can see if the whole system is sealed as a whole, couplers, intercooler and all.

[Matt191]

Yes, I did clean my Maf and it really didn't make a difference and my ecu is flashing the cOde 12 ugh I already had the cops on my ass for dr

[Matt191]

Drive. But I spent 4 hours testing all my charge pipes the whole system is tested to 20 psi and I only want to run 12 psi

[Matt191]

To clarify that, it was tested as a whole a pressurized the system from the turbo inlet all the way to the intake mani. But the cops are riding my ass cause I've been driving it testing (I live in a small town) only 240 around here. But sorry for all the posts (on an iPhone)

[ShadowMan]

you really should download an fsm, it'll tell what sensor should be reading what voltage and how to check it. Tps should be getting .45v +/- .1 or so iirc. Clean the iacv, that should help some too.

[Matt191]

I have one downloaded... I have tested the tps and it is working well but I was unaware of being able to test the iacv

[blksylv]

is your timing set correctly?

[ShadowMan]

well i was referring to cleaning it with brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Same with the throttle body. I removed the intake manifold then romoved the throttle body and iacv and used a can of carb cleaner to spray it all out. I even did my best to clean out the collector of the intake. You'd be surprised on the crud built up in there. But I would recommend getting new intake system gaskets tho. It would suck to go thru all that and re use the old ones and create new vacuum/boost leaks for your self. And yeah double and triple check your timing. Cant believe I left that out. Just run thru all your sensors, coolant temp sensor, knock sensor etc...
can't hurt anything just checking.

[Matt191]

My whole intake system is brand new I had my intake mani completely off and had it hot tanked and my timing is set correctly. I suppose tomorrow I can pull the ud pully off put my Oem one on and re test my timing. But my ecu is flashing code 12 sooo that is Maf correct?

[ShadowMan]

well if ur problems go away when you unplug the maf, then most likely thats your source, try a known working one. see what happens

[Matt191]

Well I'll try and get a new one does anyone have a known working one they'd like to sell? And also it seems that when I unplug the O2 sensor it doesn't change a damn thing its like my sr isn't getting the signals it needs. Does anyone have an idea of what wires to trace and make sure all is working well?

[ShadowMan]

stock maf or z32, i have both.

[di-devol]

Singlecam maf will work as well.

[199240sxcoupe]

if i recall code 12 is coolant temp sensor

[cotbu]

if i recall code 12 is coolant temp sensor

You recalled incorrectly!;)

[Matt191]

Okay guys I just wanted to update you all and say I found a bad solder on my mafs wire so I did fix that and now the only code it is throwing is 55(: but now the damn thing is running rich as hell. Thank you for all your help I'll keep ya'll updated

[ShadowMan]

sweet, its usually something stupid like that. Sounds like its time for a tune. Check your injector o-rings to make sure they arent leaking. Ive havent checked mine after replacing the o-rings to make sure, but the way I read it was to leave your fuel rail hooked up to the fuel lines but take it off the manifold and prime the fuel pump to see if they leak around the lower rings. So thats how I'm gonna try it even though itll be a pain in the ass somewhat.

[Matt191]

I am actually about to go do that :P another question though, would it hurt to check every ground on the ecu? A guy was telling me that he had a ground undone and it was causing hell

[Matt191]

negatory on injector seals leaking

[Matt191]

I just wanted to let anyone know that I DID get my car running correctly, it took me a long time but I got it figured out. It turned out my alternator was bad and causing the car to run like crap. So I finally got to the point where I wanted to work on the car and man I'm finally so happy I got this car running! Thank you for all your help though!

[ultimateirving]

YAY! glad to see it resolved! sometimes you just gotta get in there and go thru everything.
I found plenty of wiring ghosts when i first got my car.

[Matt191]

Thanks, driving my car tonight it seems to be getting the symptoms back it seems the car is eating alternators has anyone had this problem before with their SR to your knowledge?
And yes there is a lot of ghosts I'm slowly finding but my biggest problem is loosing voltage the new alternator seems to be going already maybe an autoparts store in town has one in stock around here.