Replaced EGR but have a Code 32 (S13)

[Agent_S13]

Hi all,

I've been having intermittent CEL issues

The CEL shows up while I'm driving on the freeway, 55-70 mph (2.5k-3k rpm) after 5-10 min of driving at speed.

Then it shuts off just as quickly, usually while still on the freeway.

The 1 time I manage to get it to stay on while exiting the freeway, it stays on for street driving (up to 30 mph, 3k rpm). No amount of street driving will clear it, must be recreating freeway driving to get it cleared.

I pull the code -- 32 (EGR Malfunction)

Ok, I just replaced the EGR on Friday, cleaned out the ports too.

Attempted smog today and failed -- only for the CEL that came back on during testing. (Car did pass sniffer test though.)

So what else could cause the CEL to give off the Code 32? [Or should I drive for a bit to give the computer to realize that the EGR is new?]

I'd like to get this fixed so I can get this re-tested ASAP!
[Already know it'll pass the sniffer, so that's a relief.]

Any information needed, please let me know.

I read this thread (http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/446967-can-leaky-injector-turn-egr-error-code.html), but it doesn't seem like anyone's confirmed (yet) that the MAF can also cause the Code 32.

Thanks in advance!

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[GroundPerformance]

Reset the ecu... If not since you pass the sniffer test anyway and you just need to get rid of that CEL. Go to you nearest RadioShack and pickup some 1/2watt 100k ohm resistor. Bridge it with the EGR sensor connector and that will start sending signal to the ECU that all is well.. ANother option in the future is swap your ECU for a federal S13 ECU. Instead of the CALI SMOG NAZI ECU..

[FRpilot]

i had a similar problem for two years just driving and cel would come on and turn off. also got code 32 for a while but disapeared, but i mainly kept getting code 55? (not sure if 55) which means nothing is malfunctioning.

i tried to pass ca smog when the light went away, but it came back on during the smog test when they run the 25mph test. it turned out to be the "L" shape vacuum hose beneath the EGR was cracked. apparently it's a common problem and they crack with old age. i replaced that and passed smog with no issues since. hopes this helps, but you said you replaced your egr already so you probably would have noticed the "L" shaped vacuum hose too.

[Agent_S13]

Reset the ecu... If not since you pass the sniffer test anyway and you just need to get rid of that CEL. Go to you nearest RadioShack and pickup some 1/2watt 100k ohm resistor. Bridge it with the EGR sensor connector and that will start sending signal to the ECU that all is well.. ANother option in the future is swap your ECU for a federal S13 ECU. Instead of the CALI SMOG NAZI ECU..

Thanks. I read about this "fix" but I'd like a permanent solution since I think its a minor issue.

I'm starting to think it is an electrical short somewhere, but not sure where to start.

I've reset/cleared the code before but its going to appear again, so don't want to have it fail again.

i had a similar problem for two years just driving and cel would come on and turn off. also got code 32 for a while but disapeared, but i mainly kept getting code 55? (not sure if 55) which means nothing is malfunctioning.

i tried to pass ca smog when the light went away, but it came back on during the smog test when they run the 25mph test. it turned out to be the "L" shape vacuum hose beneath the EGR was cracked. apparently it's a common problem and they crack with old age. i replaced that and passed smog with no issues since. hopes this helps, but you said you replaced your egr already so you probably would have noticed the "L" shaped vacuum hose too.

Thanks. I've noticed it for awhile but figured that I had to replace the EGR (and all applicable hoses). It also came on during the 25 mph test as well so as I mentioned above, I think its a short.

But if it helps, here are my #'s from the emissions part:

CO2% 02% HC (ppm) CO% NO (ppm)
15 mph 14.92 .06 69 0.26 217
25 mph 15.00 .02 46 0.31 144

[Sorry, format isn't ideal.]

I'm just trying to figure out where I should start looking? Maybe the short is a causing higher (or lower) than average readings?

As I referenced in my first post, I might attempt to check wiring near the MAF but I still think its closer to the EGR/BPT...

Keep 'em coming guys.

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[Agent_S13]

So the mystery continues.

When replacing my EGR, I noticed empty snail shells in the back of the engine on the valve cover (Friday, 4/13).

Didn't think anything of it, figured a snail or 2 got into the engine.

Looks like its more like something put them there. Noticed today that there are more empty shells on the valve cover, near the intake, really all over the place.

I think there's an animal living in the engine compartment, and probably eating my wiring when not dining on snails.

Anyone have similar problems? If so, where should I start looking for an electrical short?

I think they ate/exposed something that's causing the CEL to come on. I figure if I can find it, fix it and pass smog -- I can then move on to figuring out what's trying to hang out in my engine bay.

Thanks all!

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[zerodameaon]

Start working the critter problem first, one day your going to start your car and the little critter is going to get chewed up by your fan(destroying it in the process) or something else. Put traps or poison under the hood when you get home if your not against that type of thing.

[Agent_S13]

Start working the critter problem first, one day your going to start your car and the little critter is going to get chewed up by your fan(destroying it in the process) or something else. Put traps or poison under the hood when you get home if your not against that type of thing.

Hahah. Definitely. My Dad suggested the same thing -- but he's also prone to attempt to catch local skunks. There's only 1 problem, what do you do when you catch one? :(

Anyways, I took advantage of the longer days and went poking around the engine bay.

I removed all the snail shells I found (and thankfully didn't find any this morning when driving to the BART station). I also looked at all the wires I was able to -- trying to find any that looked like they were chewed through, or showing exposed wiring. Nothing so far.

Did notice that part of the plastic holding the injector wiring is cracked... might have to take another look tonight to see if there's anything there.

If anything, will bring to the mechanic and have him start an electrica diagnosis --- including a request they put it on the lift to see if any other wiring is an issue.

If anyone know's what other wiring/electrical are related to the CEL giving off the Code 32 (EGR Malfunction), please let me know.

Thanks!

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[zerodameaon]

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/vancouverbc_2008/egr.jpg
Check the line with the arrow pointing to it. Mine was rotted out on the inside of the bend causing my CEL to come on. I know you just replaced the EGR but check it and make sure its not kinked which could cause simular issues as being rotted out.

[Agent_S13]

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/vancouverbc_2008/egr.jpg
Check the line with the arrow pointing to it. Mine was rotted out on the inside of the bend causing my CEL to come on. I know you just replaced the EGR but check it and make sure its not kinked which could cause simular issues as being rotted out.

Yep! All new hoses everywhere. Though the one you referenced was replaced months earlier. Mechanic I take it too uses a heavier duty hose and includes a spring in the bend to keep the form. He's done it in all of his 240's as its the first to wear.

With a brand new EGR/BPT and hoses (which I realize aren't the problem), I'm convinced its a wire short somewhere.

Its shorting somewhere due to the vibration of driving at higher speeds, though I'm guessing that the EGR replacement made it worse as light goes on/off/on now, so its getting into contact to set off the light.

Though I'm trying to source another ECU to test in hopes that it could just be a bad ECU too ~ though I have a feeling its a wire someplace... probably under the runners of the intake manifold. =P

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[Zed Nismo]

Inspect the wiring behind the valve cover. There are connectors that go to the EGR/BPT solenoids. I would check those and make sure that it's on properly and the connectors are not loose and still have the metal clip holding them on. That could be a reason why you're getting the code on and off when going at high speeds due to vibration as well.

A good way to check for any wiring issues would be to check for discontinuity between lengths of wires. If you don't already, then I would suggest you download the FSM for your 240 and look in the EF & EC section (Engine Fuel and Emission Control) and it will give you procedures to diagnose trouble codes. I used the FSM when I had to get rid of the code due to smog for my 240. For me, it was the kinked hose going from the BPT to the EGR, but I ended up taking off the EGR and the EGR tube and scrapping it all out.. a lot of carbon buildup I tell you. I would suggest you clean out that Pipe as well.

[Agent_S13]

Inspect the wiring behind the valve cover. There are connectors that go to the EGR/BPT solenoids. I would check those and make sure that it's on properly and the connectors are not loose and still have the metal clip holding them on. That could be a reason why you're getting the code on and off when going at high speeds due to vibration as well.

A good way to check for any wiring issues would be to check for discontinuity between lengths of wires. If you don't already, then I would suggest you download the FSM for your 240 and look in the EF & EC section (Engine Fuel and Emission Control) and it will give you procedures to diagnose trouble codes. I used the FSM when I had to get rid of the code due to smog for my 240. For me, it was the kinked hose going from the BPT to the EGR, but I ended up taking off the EGR and the EGR tube and scrapping it all out.. a lot of carbon buildup I tell you. I would suggest you clean out that Pipe as well.

Thanks. Took it back to my mechanic and he checked out/replaced the solenoids and also replaced the BPT Sensor too (was covered in carbon... OEM and 21+ yrs old) and the car was fine for about 2 days.

Though I think its a temperature issue now. When the car is cold, CEL will turn on if I'm running the car on the freeway in the morning. Then it will turn off with no more issues (usually 1-5 minutes of continued driving).

We had some warm Bay Area weather last week so I drove for awhile and took it back for a retest. Figured with the car warmed up and it was running without CEL issues, it wouldn't be a problem.

Light came back on during the test -- I told him to run it on the rollers a bit longer, it turned off within a minute and since my emissions passed (even lower #'s this time), he let it slide and I passed. Said he'd have failed me again if the light stayed on.

With all of the EGR stuff replaced, he suggested I use another ECU but I'm thinking its heat related so something's not registering when the car is cold which isn't setting off the CEL but then it realizes continued 3k rpm from the highway driving and sets off the light... only to have it turn of minutes later when I figure the car completely warms up and there's no issues.

[I don't have any problems when driving home in the evenings since its quite warm lately - NO CEL issues, hence my thoughts its a heat-related issue.]

Other things I think I'll have to look at:

Knock Sensor
IACV (only because everything back there was cleaned but this wasn't)
O2 Sensor

Though I'm hoping to get this resolved before having to smog it again in 2 years. =P

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[Zed Nismo]

I'm glad it passed smog. It's always a headache getting it to pass.
And as for the CEL, check the ecu for the codes. chances are that because you are throwing codes then the ECU would have stored it. And if you check and don't get the code then cool the car and then start it (cold start) because you say that's when the CEL comes on, and when it does then shut the car off and check for the codes again. That will give you something to work with.

[Agent_S13]

I'm glad it passed smog. It's always a headache getting it to pass.
And as for the CEL, check the ecu for the codes. chances are that because you are throwing codes then the ECU would have stored it. And if you check and don't get the code then cool the car and then start it (cold start) because you say that's when the CEL comes on, and when it does then shut the car off and check for the codes again. That will give you something to work with.

Thanks - I'm going to have to pull the code again, but it seems that once the light goes off ~ I'll pull the code and it will give me the old 55 (All clear).

The only times I get it are on the freeway and its a bit tough to pull over while that's happening. Total crapshoot for how long it stays on... I've managed to get lucky the few times it was still on when I got off the freeway (street driving doesn't seem to affect it).

I'm going to continue my diagnosis but its nice knowing I have a few years to figure it out before having to smog again.

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[Zed Nismo]

Yeah that will be a definite nightmare to diagnose if it only comes on when you're on the freeway sometimes. I thought it came on during cold start then went away as it got hot.
I'll gladly help you if you ever are to come out to Tracy.