s14 subframe install into s13

[streetprototype]

Been doing alot searching on this. And found answers to my questions besides one. My question is, I have the complete rear-end off a s14.from the differential to all arms. Now that being said is it just a bolt-on affair? Thanks in advance!

[AceUp]

you will need to get Offset Conversion bushings, unless you want to ghetto rig and stretch the stock rubber bushings out.

[slidewayz350]

You can get the bushing from spl and stance. Also try searching. I already posted something about this. But yes everything will work. You need the bushings and depending on what bushing you get you may have to modify the rear crossmember at the front hump.

[lflkajfj12123]

offset bushings /thread

[future]

You need offset bushings, but you can also do the strech the rubber bushings if your a cheap ass and like ghetto rigged cars. You also need the obvious s14 diff cover. And if you don't have aftermarket arms you need the stock s14 toe arms

[streetprototype]

thats what i thought. and i should've clarified my question more as to"if i still needed to use the offset conversion bushing"

[streetprototype]

you will need to get Offset Conversion bushings, unless you want to ghetto rig and stretch the stock rubber bushings out.

cant even imagine how to even stretch them out =/

[SlideOrDie831]

get the correct bushing.

[199240sxcoupe]

i got a question my self about this.. im sure i kno the answer but, can i use my s13 rear coilovers or do i have to use s14 rears?

[UNITEDMASTER]

^^^^ S13 rears, also like said above you will need to get out the BFH for the front of the sub frame ,it touches on the underside of chassis!!

[tacotacotaco]

ive done this swap twice.

you will need an s13 ruca the s14 ruca will block your coilovers

So to end it all s14/15 subframe into an s13 parts needed

s14 subframe
s14 rlca
s13 ruca
s14 toe arms
s13/14 tension
offset bushings from spl.
s14 diff cover.

Modify exhaust hanger on subframe

[ixfxi]

you guys are amateurs

i like with all the great sage advice people have given, not one has even mentioned the fact that you need to relocate the exhaust hanger screw provisions

"nah man, who needs that shit, you still have 2 more hangers in the rear"

my best suggestion, get off your ass, drop both subframes, put them side by side and compare. expect a lill bit of downtime, no big deal. its all possible, but as everyone else has already commented - you'll need to start with offset bushings since the newer subframe is wider.

you guys also forgot that he needs to use the s14 spindles, ball joints (taper) is different


fucking amateurs... and all of this is just "off the top of my head"

see, i told you guys im smart. not just good looking, but smart.

[UNITEDMASTER]

^^^^ OMG your the best..... we shall bow to you god of 240sx,lollollol. well if he is starting with a complete subframe,no need to mess with spindles,but now if he is peicing it all together then ,yea different story. And I would thinkthe whole exaust hanger crap would be obvious once installed....

[NismoPlsr]

you guys are amateurs

you guys also forgot that he needs to use the s14 spindles, ball joints (taper) is different


fucking amateurs... and all of this is just "off the top of my head"

see, i told you guys im smart. not just good looking, but smart.

False. All s13/s14/z32 rear lower control arm ball joints have the same taper; all uprights are interchangeable in that respect.

[dagger]

why do u change the s13 subframe? mulsanne dude also changed his r32 to an s14

[future]

S14 = grip

S13 = drifT

[FRpilot]

i'm assuming the middle exhaust hangers have to be rewelded on?

[lflkajfj12123]

why do u change the s13 subframe? mulsanne dude also changed his r32 to an s14

pickup points for the control arm are lower = more traction

s15/s14 kouki subframes also have extra bracing

[ixfxi]

False. All s13/s14/z32 rear lower control arm ball joints have the same taper; all uprights are interchangeable in that respect.

hey 235 post, you're wrong. the ball joints are different. according to my notes which i measured with my own caliper:

S13/S14/S15
Front Diameter = 41mm

S14/S15
Rear Diameter = 41mm

S13
Rear Diameter = 38mm

i had my s13 spindles powdercoated only to find out that i was unable to use them with my s15 subframe and OE lower control arms, so off to the dumpster they went. i now run s14 spindles. even when you go s14 5-lug on the front of an s13, the front ball joints need to be changed as well.


s15/s14 kouki subframes also have extra bracing

incorrect. some s14 subframes have minor reinforcements, others do not. the reinforcements are negligible though, i would prefer adding my own gussets as the OE ones are minuscule.


damn people, get yer shit straight. you all know i'm the fuckin KING around here. :-)

[Matej]

i'm assuming the middle exhaust hangers have to be rewelded on?
If you are doing this mod then you probably own a professional race car, which means you will be running some kind of a sweet roof-exit exhaust anyway. :)

[FRpilot]

If you are doing this mod then you probably own a professional race car, which means you will be running some kind of a sweet roof-exit exhaust anyway. :)

no, if i was building a professional race car i wouldn't be using an s-chasis. just a track only s13 that i want done right and will support my blitz nurspec r the way it was meant. i don't want to have it ghetto rigged and supported by just the two rear hangers and bolted onto the downpipe.

plus, i fully expect everything clearcorners says is true because i remember a thread a few years ago when with his own struggles put this crap on his car when touge factory was the only company that made solid offset conversion bushings while everyone was stretching their rubber bushings.

[NismoPlsr]

hey 235 post, you're wrong. the ball joints are different. according to my notes which i measured with my own caliper:

S13/S14/S15
Front Diameter = 41mm

S14/S15
Rear Diameter = 41mm

S13
Rear Diameter = 38mm

i had my s13 spindles powdercoated only to find out that i was unable to use them with my s15 subframe and OE lower control arms, so off to the dumpster they went. i now run s14 spindles. even when you go s14 5-lug on the front of an s13, the front ball joints need to be changed as well.



Reading comprehension my friend...

I said the ball joint tapers are the same, not the press fit diameter of the housing. All the rears have the same minor/major shank diameter and length. Yes the ball joints are control arm specific, but upright universal.

You are correct on the front tapers, however.




incorrect. some s14 subframes have minor reinforcements, others do not. the reinforcements are negligible though, i would prefer adding my own gussets as the OE ones are minuscule.

It's Kouki s14 subframes that have the additional reinforcements, same as s15.

[ixfxi]

no, if i was building a professional race car i wouldn't be using an s-chasis. just a track only s13 that i want done right and will support my blitz nurspec r the way it was meant. i don't want to have it ghetto rigged and supported by just the two rear hangers and bolted onto the downpipe.

plus, i fully expect everything clearcorners says is true because i remember a thread a few years ago when with his own struggles put this crap on his car when touge factory was the only company that made solid offset conversion bushings while everyone was stretching their rubber bushings.


haha you mean back when S15 subframes were considered an enigma? OH SHIT, S15 SUBBBBFRRAAAAME!!!! Then 2 years pass and its like "oh, they're practically the same" with only minor differences.

note to all: those 2 rear exhaust hangers are known to fail, i've seen the bolts corrode and the 2-hanger assembly comes crashing down. FUN :-) Thats why I highly advise using ALL hangers, which is why I spent the time to cut and relocate my s13 provisions onto the new subframe

[killer240]

I remember i seen someone cut the part where it hits the tranny hump and mentioned how much he cut, but i cant seem to find it! i forgot to save it, can someone please show me the way?

[Creizai]

S13 with drop knuckles or S15 Subframe
S14 is not worth it

[ixfxi]

S13 with drop knuckles or S15 Subframe
S14 is not worth it

ive been around here forever

you want to explain to me what your post is even suggesting?

[huffandpuff00]

I remember i seen someone cut the part where it hits the tranny hump and mentioned how much he cut, but i cant seem to find it! i forgot to save it, can someone please show me the way?

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/371583-anyone-used-stance-subframe-conversion-bushing.html

[BlueDream240]

im running s14 rear subframe with s14 adjustable toe arms, s14 rlca, s14 diff cover, s13 axles, s13 spindles, s14 traction, s13 coils, s13 ruca. I have major toe in issues and my toe arms are adjusted as short as possible. I have read numerous threads and there seems to be debate on whether or not you need to run s14 spindles. I only started to have toe problems when I switched from s13 rlca to s14 rlca and im guessing it is because I have s14 rlca on s13 spindles. please help

[brndck]

im running s14 rear subframe with s14 adjustable toe arms, s14 rlca, s14 diff cover, s13 axles, s13 spindles, s14 traction, s13 coils, s13 ruca. I have major toe in issues and my toe arms are adjusted as short as possible. I have read numerous threads and there seems to be debate on whether or not you need to run s14 spindles. I only started to have toe problems when I switched from s13 rlca to s14 rlca and im guessing it is because I have s14 rlca on s13 spindles. please help

are you still using the factory cam bolt? or have you switched to an eccentric lockout? I've never heard anyone run into this issue, either with s13 or s14 spindles. I used s14 subframe with z32 rear uprights and had zero issue.

[BlueDream240]

ignore this message box, sorry im new

[BlueDream240]

are you still using the factory cam bolt? or have you switched to an eccentric lockout? I've never heard anyone run into this issue, either with s13 or s14 spindles. I used s14 subframe with z32 rear uprights and had zero issue.

I am still using the factory cam bolt but I plan on going eccentric lockout after buying adjustable ruca's. So I had my car on the alignment rack and my toe was off by about 4 degrees in the rear which is REALLY terrible. The worst part about it was that I could not do anything to correct this as my adjustable toe arms were the shortest length possible. I'm sure that adjustable ruca's would help with the toe somewhat but there has to be something that is the cause of this. I figured it was me running s13 spindles because I have seen some people say you need s14 spindles with s14 rlca, which is misleading as many also say that you can use s13 spindles. My car squeals like crazy and I feel the tires skidding from the crazy toe in. The only thing I could think of was switching to s14 spindles which I have just bought from ebay and they are on the way. Any reason why I would have 4 degrees of toe in?

[brndck]

I am still using the factory cam bolt but I plan on going eccentric lockout after buying adjustable ruca's. So I had my car on the alignment rack and I figured it was me running s13 spindles because I have seen some people say you need s14 spindles with s14 rlca, which is misleading as many also say that you can use s13 spindles.
Do you have the factory cam bolt moved as close to the center of the car as possible?

[Standard]

Wow, old thread!

What brand arms are you using? Having adjustable rucas and traction arms would probably help solve your issue. Also, toe isn't EDIT: ALWAYS measured in degrees :)

[BlueDream240]

Do you have the factory cam bolt moved as close to the center of the car as possible?

I adjusted it to make it as to "green" or spec. I'm probably going to get tthe lockout kit.

[BlueDream240]

Wow, old thread!

What brand arms are you using? Having adjustable rucas and traction arms would probably help solve your issue. Also, toe isn't measured in degrees :)

The only aftermarket arms I have are SPL s14 toe arms and OE s14 rlca with brand new megan ball joint. I plan on buying ISR ruca's for adjustability (not performance lol) and from what I've read, I won't get adjustable traction arms just yet. I did not know what to call the unit of measurement as I just move toe to green on the alignment rack. My real concern is that the ball joint doesn't look to be completely seated in the spindle and I'm worried it's because it's an s14 rlca in a s13 spindle/knuckle. I have s14 spindles on the way and if I can use my s13 ones then I'll paint and put new bushings in the s14 ones for future install. Thanks for visiting this old thread to help a new Zilvian out.

[brndck]

Also, toe isn't measured in degrees :)
every computerized alignment rack ive used measures/displays toe in degrees
. My real concern is that the ball joint doesn't look to be completely seated in the spindle and I'm worried it's because it's an s14 rlca in a s13 spindle/knuckle. .

yeah this def concerns me.

[Standard]

every computerized alignment rack ive used measures/displays toe in degrees


yeah this def concerns me.

Haha that is interesting, I stand corrected!
The only alignment racks I've used measure toe in inches lol

And as far as the ball joint goes, make sure it's not just an illusion, if one boot is full of grease and the other isn't, it can look weird. Definitely need to make sure though, good luck :)

[BlueDream240]

So for future Zilvians who were curious of the compatibility of s14 rlca into s13 knuckles/spindles here is what I have learnded from my research.

1) The RLCA are the same length. From the center of the inboard bushings to the center of the ball joint = 300mm on both s13 and s14.
2) They use the same interchangeable ball joint in the REAR
3) Only difference is mounting points for sway bar, the fact that s14 rlca has additional bracing, and of course the mounting points on the subframe.

With this I will have to double check my rear end work to see whats causing my toe-in issues. I will update my findings.

[ixfxi]

It's Kouki s14 subframes that have the additional reinforcements, same as s15.

lots of misinformation out there... including this ^

there is no difference between kouki or zenki, s14 or s15, spec R or spec anything. The bracing varies wildly on all of these subframes, no matter the year S14 or S15. Its a random shitbag lottery. Grab yourself a welder and add the braces, done and done.

I did the same with all the control arms, boxed them in and braced them.

[jared420sx]

For all you kids out there i will post my s14 subframeage into my s13 debauchery. Bottom line use s14 knuckles. Tried with gk tech knuckles didn't work.


S14 subframe with gk tech reinforcements, spl conversion bushing and s14 diff cover on welded s13 diff for sale hmu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BlueDream240]

For all you kids out there i will post my s14 subframeage into my s13 debauchery. Bottom line use s14 knuckles. Tried with gk tech knuckles didn't work.


S14 subframe with gk tech reinforcements, spl conversion bushing and s14 diff cover on welded s13 diff for sale hmu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why did they not work? I'm currently using s13 knuckles myself. I do plan on using s14 knuckles but am concerned with s13 coils on s14 knuckles.

[NismoPlsr]

lots of misinformation out there... including this ^

there is no difference between kouki or zenki, s14 or s15, spec R or spec anything. The bracing varies wildly on all of these subframes, no matter the year S14 or S15. Its a random shitbag lottery. Grab yourself a welder and add the braces, done and done.

I did the same with all the control arms, boxed them in and braced them.

Well logic would suggest that bracing would be added later in time if Nissan found it to be necessary. Doesn't matter though, like you said, find a good frame and add bracing yourself. That's what I did.

[ixfxi]

Well logic would suggest that bracing would be added later in time if Nissan found it to be necessary. Doesn't matter though, like you said, find a good frame and add bracing yourself. That's what I did.

I wish you were right, but thats not the case. The last car I worked on was original owner, 1995 SE and everything was original, including a subframe with OE bracing. Which conflicts with subframes that I've received from various other cars, S14 *OR* S15, which did not have the bracing. So yeah, it makes no fucking sense at all. The same goes for the axles, you'll randomly run into cars with the 5-bolt axles versus the 3x2. The 3x2 are obviously the most common.

[kowalatea]

brand new here guys, and about to start my first s13 build, im picking up a s13hb shell today for the great price of free, but its literally a shell no gas tank no sub frame no cross members nothing zilch nadda. i want to build the car for the track(grip not slide) and the occasional public road trip.

ive been told the s14 is a wider sub frame is that a fact? does any one have measurements to prove so?

i know i want to run solid bushings on either sub frame i go with and i know i want adjust-ability in my suspension.

i also know i want to do away with the drum e brake and just run every thing off the disks.

from what ive gathered i need
-s14 sub frame
-s14 RLCA
-S14 toe arms
-s14 diff or diff cover
-s13 RUCA
- off set solid bushings(are they really considerd i bushing if its solid )

my questions are what else is needed to make it a 5 lug set up and what brake system do i need to run in order to eliminate the drum e brake