Sr20 not starting after having ran perfect, help

[NHTKID]

Ok guys well I just finished up a swap on my 93 s13 and I have a 97 blacktop with a j4 ecu. Yesterday I Put radiator fluid in and backed the car out of the garage (it was the first start and it was idling perfect and sounded perfect) after backing it out I was letting it idle as it toOk in more fluid i was checking the levels and stuff. Once the motor started warming uP it started hesitating a bit and lowering its idle to its eventual death lol. Now it won't start it just cranks and cranks. I Checked the spark plugs and the engine is flooding itself so drastically that the car won start. At least that's what I believe is happening. Later I noticed that my factory water temp gauge was not working the entire time. ( my after market gauge says my motor was nOt quite at operating temp). So it didn't overheat or anything. Checked the fuses checked the spark everything is fine, I'm getting fuel too just a hell of a lot of it, My Maf is gOod. My only guess is that it's the stock water temp sender? The little red guy causing my ecu to say fml?

Any advice or insight would be much appreciated I hope you can help, thanks so much guys.

[OutlawLui]

check for boost leaks and your maf tps

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk86/evilpanamajack/78958.jpg

[NHTKID]

Vaccum/boost is good, Maf is good, tps is good. Keep in mind the motor was idling perfect for a good 3 mins before it started sputtering and died, was similar to a vehicle running out of gas. But there is plenty of gas and the spark plugs showed that the motor was flooded, I bought a new coolent sending unit(the little red one) idk if that'll make a difference, and spark plugs.. It has to be something simple

[NHTKID]

Haven't had a chance to change the plugs or the sensor yet, I've read that if you don't have that sensor which is year specific, then your sr can do some funny weird shit

[NHTKID]

Ok so changed the plugs to bkr6's replaced the Coolant temp sensor, double checked vacuum lines and boost lines and everything is good, the car was stable enough to test drive down the street but the idle still remained ruff and sputtered and would drop like it was a rich issue, so when I pulled the car back in the driveway I let it idle for a few mins until I turned it off hoping it would restart so I could drive it but tr second I turned it off it wouldn't turn back on an gas smelled real bad like it was flooded. So I pulled the plugs to check them and the tips were snowy white, what does that indicate? My old plugs that came with the swap were solid black and has gas moisture on them but these didn't. I cleaned the Maf and checked tps.. Everything checks out, I'm really at a loss, any help would be great!

[thizzen4]

check for spark then check to see ir ur getting fuel then check ur cass umm ? spark plugs injectors fuel rail check all hoses [all] ju7st was having same problem with mine after putting it in
was a bad ecu fouled out spark pluggs and wrong maf took forever to find all the problems

[OutlawLui]

maybe your fpr is getting overrun, what kind of fuel pump do you have? do you have a stock fpr? and make sure your gap on your spark plugs is around 32

[NHTKID]

Well like I said I have spark and fuel and the car drives now. However the idle is very sputters and inconsistent after it warms up. When I took it down the street and pulled it back in and turned it off, I attempt to restart it and nothing, it's flooded out. So I have to wait again, while pulling the spark plugs to let the cyl dry out the tips are snowy white which is a lean indication. How could I be lean and rich at the same time? I have 2 guesses, see of they match up with anyone's opinions, one while driving the car is running lean but at idle rich, when I turn the car off the injector or o ring leaks enough gas to flood it.. Could I be wrong? Could the vacuum from the o ring cause the idle to be effed as well?



To be clear, this is a blacktop with a j4 into a 93, I have a blitz Fmic, open dump pipe, mizu radiator, samco hoses, hks bov (uncirculated cause I haven't found a hose to do so yet)

[NHTKID]

Oh I have a walboro

[c-los13]

Pull out your fuel rail, put a piece of carboard in between your fuel rail and the intake m manifold, now have a friend turning the key on to see if the injectors have a leak, try cranking it also to see if the injectors are firing right

[NHTKID]

yeah thats the next step, ill be out of town this weekend. ill be back on monday night. thats really the last thing to check. but could injector o rings or leaky injectors cause me to run lean under driving conditions and flood the motor the second i turn the car off? is that a common symptom? i feel like that would make me run rich under driving conditions but thats not the case. my spark plugs were snowy white and yet it wont start after turning it off because its flooded. I dont know its pretty confusing to me.

[NHTKID]

the idle only messes up and stutters once the motor has warmed up.. the motor will continuously start back up if i dont let the motor warm up the second i do and then kill the car it floods itself. but if i take it for a drive once the motor has warmed up and then pull the plugs after the tips are snowy white like i was running lean.. so its kind of backwards, i have no idea where to start, ive checked everything else other then fuel ie: rail, o rings, injectors.

[NHTKID]

ok so still having the same problem.. i got new bkr6's gapped them to .028, got a new maf, rechecked vaccuum lines, tighted the ground on the back of the motor (it was loose), pulled the rail off and primed the fuel system and there are 0 leaks, plugged the injector plugs in and they are firing normal, plugged the injectors and rail back in and started it and individually pulled the plugs and they are deff firing properly. so thats ruled out. im getting ign, my packs are good and they are grounded properly as i have a wiring specialties harness, yet it still seams to have a small vaccuum leak once the motor warms up, its idling like there is, and then once i turn the car off it wont start due to alot of fuel in the cyl and wont restart until i either air the cyl out or pull the fuel pump relay and burn it out. im so confused. the last things im going to do before i take it to my friends shop thats about an hour away is..

replace my 02 sensor, (never know, it could be bad)
injector o rings and the stupid rubber rings that sit around the bottom of the inector in the intake manifold (the mounting rings or whatever).. they seem to be leaking air once the motor warms up (vaccuum leak) i could be wrong but it seems to be

and possibly go back through wiring if those things dont help..
and if all else fails im going to see if my ecu works on my buddies car.

its a j4 ecu.. if anyone has any insight on the small common issues in doing an ob2 j4 sr20 swap that would be awesome lol i feel like giving up im so damn mad, have a 240 bonfire lol

[NHTKID]

my CEL is on as well, i know i didnt mention that, but its a j4 ecu and doing the ol paperclip trick scares me.. im not exactly sure how to do it even after reading instructions and i dont wanna fuck anything up in my ecu trying to get the code

[NHTKID]

So the hundreds of s-chassis and sr experienced people have no more input? This sucks cause I'm out of ideas

[199240sxcoupe]

what codes is yours throwing?
cuz i am having the same exact problem with my redtop.
she drives amazing no hesitation.
my plugs were snowy white and black at the threads.
idles like its cammed and test it with a timing lights and its all over the place not set where its suppose to be. but when you rev it and it holds idle for a second or 2 its timed perfect.
mine is throwing code 12 for coolant temp sensor, and code 13 for mass air flow sensor. but i already replaced the coolant temp sensor and it still throws it. i got a maf im going to test tomorrow.

[NHTKID]

Sorry to hear that man I hope it works out for you! I've. Hanged the coolant temp sensor 3 times, it's hard to figure out which one I need exactly for sure because I have a late model blacktop :/ anyway I have a 97 s13 sr and I'm using a 96 sr coolant temp sensor I believe. I can't read my codes on the ecu because it's a j4 and it doesn't have a screw I have to wire an led to a 12v source and since Ive never done it I don't want to risk hurting my ecu.. Lmk how yours turns out. My timing is perfect

[JDMRIDDAZ]

check voltage and grounds on coilpacks
maf voltage too
wat gas did u put in it?
and wat codes did u extract?
also the wire guide for sr20det swap into s13 chassis shows almost wire to wire color match...u need to check all these wires for proper voltage
this is a step over looked by many ppl doin sr swaps and engine run crappy and eventually die from overfueling...

[sdrmiami]

Check ur injectors. I have done some swaps and had a faulty injector that stays open.. I'm sure u will find ur problem there

[SofaKingFast]

Have you checked your IACV valve? Coolant does run through it so you might want to double check that its working properly.

[NHTKID]

I haven't checked the iacv, I'll check that out! Thanks for the input guys.

A stated before its a wiring specialties harness, and I didn't get the codes because I'm not going to risk damaging my ecu jumping pins with a 12v source, it doesn't have a diagnostic screw, and I've never done the paper clip trick before.