370cc injectors stock maf. Rich idle lean as soon as there is no vacum.

[shoguner]

So I am at a loss, any helpful input would be nice.


Specs
rebuilt ka24de
t3 top mount mani.
eBay .60 ar turbo (i know its shitty. only thing i have atm)
i believe 10psi wg.
370cc injectors.
stock maf.
daughterboard ecu with a 370cc stock maf tune (my friend uses the same tune i know it works)


So last drift event i ran stock injectors. it ran, but lean.
So i upgraded to 370cc injectors got my friend to solder in the daughter board (he did his and a few other peoples. i know its good)
Got his tune for 370cc/stock maf/t25

It now starts out idling at 14.7 then drops to 12.something.
If i give it a little gas it goes super rich.
as soon as i hit 0 vacuum it goes super lean.

I have tried unplugging the maf. same thing.
I have tried unplugging the TPS. same thing.
I have tried different tunes. Same thing.
I have tried taking out the daughterboard. same thing.
I even had no daughter board no maf no tps. ran the EXACT same way.

Does anybody have any idea?

Like i said it ran fine 2 weeks ago before i did the injectors and daughter board.

[shoguner]

Also the red LED is on, on the ecu

[Jez]

I'd be reading the ECU fault codes before I did anything else.

[shoguner]

I tried putting into the self diagnostics mode.
(key on the on position. screw on back of ecu clockwise for 2 seconds then back)
The led doesn't flash.

[Croustibat]

Do this, in the correct order
check for boost leaks
bin or recirc your BOV if you have one (see previous: boost leak)
Check your FPR vacuum line
check your coolant temp sensor (not the dash temp sensor, the engine one)
check your knock sensor, if it does not work "disable it" by putting a resistor (500 to 1k ohm, i dont know exactly, it depends on engine) between the ECU pins

finally get a real turbo and a real tune.

There is a reason why people spend money on these: it works. If you dont, it does not work.

I really think you have 4 major problems: boost leak, FPR not connected / not working, ECU going to knock mode, and finally a global misunderstanding about how to work on a car. Yes, working on a car require skills, time and money, and that is why people make a job out of it. And surely why you should not.

Go cheap = break things. Where do you think all the metal schrapnels are going to go when the turbo dies ? Where do you think your coolant and oil will go too when it happens ? When that turbo blows up, you can kiss your whole engine goodbye.

Anyway the ECU is surely going to knock mode because your ebay turbo and lean combination makes it ping to death ...

[Walperstyle]

Anyway the ECU is surely going to knock mode because your ebay turbo and lean combination makes it ping to death ...

This is the exact same reason why after all the years of reading, I purchased AEM Series 2 and its wideband 02.

The learning process is harder, but it gives you the ability to tell the engine what to do, instead of hoping the ECU figures it out on its own.

[shoguner]

Do this, in the correct order
check for boost leaks
bin or recirc your BOV if you have one (see previous: boost leak)
Check your FPR vacuum line
check your coolant temp sensor (not the dash temp sensor, the engine one)
check your knock sensor, if it does not work "disable it" by putting a resistor (500 to 1k ohm, i dont know exactly, it depends on engine) between the ECU pins

finally get a real turbo and a real tune.

There is a reason why people spend money on these: it works. If you dont, it does not work.

I really think you have 4 major problems: boost leak, FPR not connected / not working, ECU going to knock mode, and finally a global misunderstanding about how to work on a car. Yes, working on a car require skills, time and money, and that is why people make a job out of it. And surely why you should not.

Go cheap = break things. Where do you think all the metal schrapnels are going to go when the turbo dies ? Where do you think your coolant and oil will go too when it happens ? When that turbo blows up, you can kiss your whole engine goodbye.

Anyway the ECU is surely going to knock mode because your ebay turbo and lean combination makes it ping to death ...


There are no boost leaks. (holds 20psi no leaks)
Fuel pressure is at 42psi at idle 50psi WOT
Changed coolant temp sensor.

How can i tell if its in knock mode?
If it was in knock mode would it allow it to rev past 3500rpm?

[JDMRIDDAZ]

So I am at a loss, any helpful input would be nice.


Specs
rebuilt ka24de
t3 top mount mani.
eBay .60 ar turbo (i know its shitty. only thing i have atm)
i believe 10psi wg.
370cc injectors.
stock maf.
daughterboard ecu with a 370cc stock maf tune (my friend uses the same tune i know it works)


So last drift event i ran stock injectors. it ran, but lean.
So i upgraded to 370cc injectors got my friend to solder in the daughter board (he did his and a few other peoples. i know its good)
Got his tune for 370cc/stock maf/t25

It now starts out idling at 14.7 then drops to 12.something.
If i give it a little gas it goes super rich.
as soon as i hit 0 vacuum it goes super lean.

I have tried unplugging the maf. same thing.
I have tried unplugging the TPS. same thing.
I have tried different tunes. Same thing.
I have tried taking out the daughterboard. same thing.
I even had no daughter board no maf no tps. ran the EXACT same way.

Does anybody have any idea?

Like i said it ran fine 2 weeks ago before i did the injectors and daughter board.

HAVE U CHECK INJECTOR RAIL FOR A FUXED UP INJECTOR?
UNDER IDLE ITS SUPPOSED TO LEAN OUT..HOW MUCH IS WAT U NEED TO KNO....
ALSO THE LIGHT STAYS ON ECU
EVEN AFTER U REMOVED DAUGHTERBOARD...HOW DID U DO THIS JUST ANOTHER ECU?BECAUSE WHEN USING A DAUGHTER BOARD U HAVE TO MOVE A JUMPER ON ECU SO IT CAN DUMP FROM EPROM ON BOARD..HOW DID U GO BACK TO STOCK TUNE?
ALSO IF THIS JUMPER IS NOT MOVED IT WILL STILL USE STOCK TUNE
IF ALL THIS CHECKS OUT
TRY AND RESET ECU
REMOVE BOTH BATT TERMINALS FROM BATTERY AND TOUCH THEM TOGETHER
THIS RESETS ECU ALSO
CHECK FOR CODES..
:picardfp:

[shoguner]

HAVE U CHECK INJECTOR RAIL FOR A FUXED UP INJECTOR?
UNDER IDLE ITS SUPPOSED TO LEAN OUT..HOW MUCH IS WAT U NEED TO KNO....
ALSO THE LIGHT STAYS ON ECU
EVEN AFTER U REMOVED DAUGHTERBOARD...HOW DID U DO THIS JUST ANOTHER ECU?BECAUSE WHEN USING A DAUGHTER BOARD U HAVE TO MOVE A JUMPER ON ECU SO IT CAN DUMP FROM EPROM ON BOARD..HOW DID U GO BACK TO STOCK TUNE?
ALSO IF THIS JUMPER IS NOT MOVED IT WILL STILL USE STOCK TUNE
IF ALL THIS CHECKS OUT
TRY AND RESET ECU
REMOVE BOTH BATT TERMINALS FROM BATTERY AND TOUCH THEM TOGETHER
THIS RESETS ECU ALSO
CHECK FOR CODES..
:picardfp:
Holy shit dude. Caps lock.

checked all injectors no leaks
Its not leaning out on idle its richening.
The red light is suppose to stay on? I thought it was connected to the CEL
"EVEN AFTER U REMOVED DAUGHTERBOARD...HOW DID U DO THIS JUST ANOTHER ECU?" I just took off the daughterboard
And the jumper is moved to cj2
I have tried to reset the ecu with the screw, nothing happens. Ill try the unplugging the battery (forgot to try that)
and it wont read me codes.

[shoguner]

Turns out my daughterboard is a two tune board. just had remove the jumper on the daughterboard.
Thanks to the people who actually had helpful input

[Croustibat]

There are no boost leaks. (holds 20psi no leaks)
Fuel pressure is at 42psi at idle 50psi WOT
Changed coolant temp sensor.

How can i tell if its in knock mode?
If it was in knock mode would it allow it to rev past 3500rpm?


There is an obvious boost leak, or your fuel pump or your FPR is dead.

Fuel pressure is supposed to be 2.5 or 3bar depending on engine (ca18Det is 2.5, but most are 3) + current boost (or depression). 15psi = around 1bar.

Meaning you should have around 2.3bar (35psi) at idle, and 3.7 bar (55psi) on boost if you really have 10psi of boost.

limp mode (aka dead or unplugged AFM) will prevent the car from revving past 2500 .

Knock mode uses alternate timing and fuel maps. Basically it goes ultra rich and pulls timing a lot.

You cannot know, unless your daughterboard can tell you. But basically these knock sensors are known to be unreliable (they are basically a microphone with a filter, supposed to pick only some specific noise; by modding the engine, you can also create noise that will be picked by that) .

You can completely disable the sensor by faking a "nothing picked" . You do that by using a resistor on the ECU pins.

[shoguner]

There is an obvious boost leak, or your fuel pump or your FPR is dead.

Fuel pressure is supposed to be 2.5 or 3bar depending on engine (ca18Det is 2.5, but most are 3) + current boost (or depression). 15psi = around 1bar.

Meaning you should have around 2.3bar (35psi) at idle, and 3.7 bar (55psi) on boost if you really have 10psi of boost.

limp mode (aka dead or unplugged AFM) will prevent the car from revving past 2500 .

Knock mode uses alternate timing and fuel maps. Basically it goes ultra rich and pulls timing a lot.

You cannot know, unless your daughterboard can tell you. But basically these knock sensors are known to be unreliable (they are basically a microphone with a filter, supposed to pick only some specific noise; by modding the engine, you can also create noise that will be picked by that) .

You can completely disable the sensor by faking a "nothing picked" . You do that by using a resistor on the ECU pins.

Turns out my daughterboard is a two tune board. just had remove the jumper on the daughterboard.
Thanks to the people who actually had helpful input

Everything is fine now.
No boost leaks
11.5 afr under 10psi.
and i was wrong fuel pressure is around 58psi wot.