Rebuilding ka24de help please !

[brucetrann]

Hi, my name is Bruce and I just pulled my engine out today.
So far i think its all stock, but i'll find out when i take it about. Its so old, the clutch is all rusted and stuff. Heres some pics !

Water pump side.. or front
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00702.jpg

Exhaust side
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00703.jpg

Clutch side.. or back
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00700.jpg

Intake side
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00701.jpg

As of now, I just got megan headers. Prob going to get a cometic head gasket. Going to get a valve job and resurfacing on head and block. This is my first time doing this so I need some advice on some builds.. like what pistons, rods, bearings, valves, valve springs, keep stock intake manifold ? what intake should I get ? and how much I should resurface on the head and block. There's just so many things I don't know and I'm looking for help. Thanks !

[AS240]

do you plan on boosting it or are you going to stay n/a? is it going to be daily'd or track/weekend only

[brucetrann]

do you plan on boosting it or are you going to stay n/a? is it going to be daily'd or track/weekend only

Yeah im going to stay N/a. Prob going to be daily/tracked.
So far im planning to get new cams, 240/232, keeping stock pistons and getting the internals checked to see if theyre still good, getting crank cleaned polished and balanced, resurfacing my heads, cometic h/g, arp headstuds, acl main and rod bearings, 3 angle valve job, supertech valve springs, Throttle body spacer, Organic exedy clutch (idk which stage), Megan headers, test pipe, 3 inch piping all the way, and intake (idk what brand, prob aem ?)

what do you think ???? criticism please !

[AS240]

if you're keeping it n/a, then the stock internals are just fine. all you need are new rings and bearings. the stock head gasket is more than enough for anything under 400hp. you don't need high end valvetrain, at least not for a stock ka. you don't get enough out of over-reving a ka (power and reliability) to be worth spending the extra investment. im in the process of refreshing my friends ka. it's an original 120k mile motor with new osk timing components, egr deleted, 248/232 cam swap, head studs, intake thermal gasket, spec stage 3 clutch, and ebay header. i HIGHLY recommend getting a osk timing kit. if you go cheap with ka timing parts, you'll be kicking yourself in the ass later. this is all just from my personal experience. this is our 3rd time building a ka. just research as much as you possibly can on all the forums before you start buying parts. you'll save time and money in the end.

got it all back together today
Dean Chinowith's Photos | Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=409389539089605&set=a.222466544448573.69244.100000556885354&type=1&theater)

[Edwin562]

If your planning to stay stock N/A and want more power. do alot of research.

you can start here since your just starting.
(PROOF) That NA KA can make 200CHP on $1000 - S-Chassis.com (http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30440)

[GroundPerformance]

Run sohc pistons, sr 370cc and e85 and that NA KA will be fun and still look completely OE.

[brucetrann]

Alrite guys, I just look up parts to put on the rebuild and found out I won't be able to afford new cams. stage 2 cams are $390 and a tune will be around $200.

So I've just decided to get a 3 angle valve job and resurface the head
cometic headgasket $90
arp studs $100
crank polished and balanced
acl racing main and rod bearings $150

I heard that f1 stage 3 clutch is decent if i put it in right. What do you guys think about that ? $150

@AS240: what do you think ? my build isn't like yours, but I'm on a smaller budget XD

@Edwin562: I already freed up my whole exhaust. Should i still get a tune even though im on stock internals ?

@Groundperformance: I want to stay on pump gas if you know what I mean. Thanks for your option though =)

[project-D180]

get a tune also,rom is the cheapest..try rs enthalpy<--- great guy n he'll take care of u..thats if your budget allows you,a tune is always a good idea imo so you can take full advantage of your power adders n helps a lil on gas mileage which is always a good thing since gas is 4.00 n up now a days

[AS240]

what timing components did you go with?
that clutch should be fine. you don't need anything over the top for a n/a ka. be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced and get an oem nissan throw out bearing, the one's that come in clutch kits suck royal ass. act, xtd, fidanza, and even my spec throw out bearing started making noises after only a few months.
try to find a set of street bearings instead of the race bearings. the race bearings are harder and less forgiving than the street ones. if you can't find any, call acl and they'll help you out.
i think you would also greatly benefit from a enthalpy tune, and the cool thing is that if you ever decide to boost your motor, all you gotta do is stack a safc on top of the enthalpy ecu to fine tune and your good for 400ish whp.

[brucetrann]

@project-D180: is rs enthalpy this site ? R.S. Enthalpy: Nissan ROM Tunes, ECU Reflashes and Dyno Tuning. Tampa Bay, Florida. (http://www.rs-enthalpy.com/index.html)
I think i can afford it, but the tunes i saw on the site are for KA-T
Would it be better for me to contact enthalpy tuning ?
Idk what tune I should get also..
I'll get a tune fosho, thanks though lmk =)

@AS240: I bought a timing chain kit from FRSport
Here's the link:OSK 13028-53F02 KA24DE DOHC Timing Chain Kit 1991-1998 Nissan 240SX (http://www.frsport.com/OSK-13028-53F02-KA24DE-DOHC-Timing-Chain-Kit-1991-1998-Nissan-240SX_p_3225.html)
So i should get an F1 clutch and ressurface my old flywheel ? dont get a new lightweight flywheel ? or i dont need that ?
I'll be sure to get an OEM throwout bearing then
So i shouldnt get the racing ones ? I found the regular ACL ones.
ACL 4B2746 Duraglide Rod Bearing Set Nissan KA24E/KA24DE (http://www.frsport.com/ACL-4B2746-Duraglide-Rod-Bearing-Set-Nissan-KA24E-KA24DE_p_12452.html)
ACL 5M2747 Duraglide Main Bearing Set Nissan KA24DE (http://www.frsport.com/ACL-5M2747-Duraglide-Main-Bearing-Set-Nissan-KA24DE_p_15378.html)
And for the clutch, I found this one ebay. what do you think ?
F1 RACING STAGE 3 RACE CLUTCH KIT SET 1991-1998 NISSAN 240SX 2.4L KA24DE SE LE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-RACING-STAGE-3-RACE-CLUTCH-KIT-SET-1991-1998-NISSAN-240SX-2-4L-KA24DE-SE-LE-/150745899046?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240SX&hash=item231927e026&vxp=mtr#ht_2957wt_1270)

[brucetrann]

Timing chain kit that i got $210
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/426208_351129411598273_100001036517891_1043071_127 1746734_n.jpg

Exhaust I got $30
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j97/axion-1/2.jpg

Headers and Test pipe $145
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00705.jpg

[brucetrann]

I took some of the engine apart today, here's some pics =)

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00714.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00713.jpg

Should i get a new flywheel ? this one is pretty gross. Or i'll just resurface it.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00712.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00711.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00710.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00709.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00708.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00707.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00706.jpg

[TougeSR20Kid]

Alrite guys, I just look up parts to put on the rebuild and found out I won't be able to afford new cams. stage 2 cams are $390 and a tune will be around $200.

So I've just decided to get a 3 angle valve job and resurface the head
cometic headgasket $90
arp studs $100
crank polished and balanced
acl racing main and rod bearings $150

I heard that f1 stage 3 clutch is decent if i put it in right. What do you guys think about that ? $150

I wouldn't go with that clutch I've read up on it when I was looking for a clutch a few months back and every forum (from honda to DSM to nissan) and every motor regardless of the hp people had a lot of horrible things to say about it, and very few good things aside from the price. you're better off spending a little bit more on a spec or an exedy (not that much more expensive than F1

Run sohc pistons, sr 370cc and e85 and that NA KA will be fun and still look completely OE.

This... Its been a while but I think something about the SOHC pistons in a DE raises the compression, don't remember what the comp ratio is bumped to but its higher than stock.

Either way I'm stoked on this *subscribed*. Even though I sold out to the snail life a long time ago, I am still a big fan of the high comp NA KA builds, good luck and keep us posted!

[AS240]

YES! good job, that is the same timing kit we're using. You don't realize how awesome it is until you have timing chain clatter within the first 500 miles using the ebay kits.
and those street bearings are better suited for your purpose. but frsport does seem to have them backordered. check ebay or go straight through acl if you cant find them.
that flywheel should be just fine with a chem-clean and resurfacing.
as far as the sohc pistons in the dohc, every mod like that will have its pros and cons along with people that live by it and the one's that will say to never do it. imo, i would stick with what you have. check out this thread to get an idea of what it entails.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/sohc-pistons-in-dohc-t225510.html
AGAIN...research, research, research.
almost forgot! it is definitely a very good idea to copper spray the head gasket (both sides). i use the permatex stuff that you can get at any parts store.

[drifter92]

Nice plan man, im "Dean Chinowith" from the picture that as240 posted

Ive done tons of work with KA's and i can tell you KA's are where its at, haha.
heres the link to my youtube profile for videos and info.
untouchable361 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/untouchable361)

[tootall4la]

Very informative
SUBSCRIBED!!:)

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2

[S13x88]

Dude, get the white bunny competition clutch kit. Also, wtf is up with that flywheel? Was the ass end of the motor submerged in the beach or something?

[brucetrann]

So i Decided to get the exedy organic OEM replacement clutch with F1 lightweight flywheel
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices (http://www.ebay.com/itm/160717969478?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3249wt_1270)

My pistons sand blasted, cleaned and ringed ! $50
OEM rings for $100
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/photo.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/photo1.jpg

My cleaned head resurfaced and valve job $125
Block Cleaned for $30
New core Plugs $30
Got new motor mounts, main and rod bearings, and headgasket! Didnt have funds to buy NAME brand parts, BUT i bought the parts at the machine shop, so i think it'll be ok. In the pics, i lubed the bearings with engine oil, but NOW im going to take them back out and put engine assembly lube. Gotta do things right the first time, plus i dont want a sprung bearing. T____T
OEM rear main seal, $25


http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/photo3-1.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/photo2.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00995.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00994.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00997.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00996.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00992.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00990.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00988.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00987.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00985.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00981.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00975.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00976.jpg

NO PAIN, NO F***KEN GAIN LOL
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC00986.jpg





As of now im putting parts together and stuff
I need arp head bolts!
anyone know where to get those for around 80 bucks ?

@TougeSR20Kid: i got the exedy one ahaha

@AS240 yeah im just going to get exedy, cant go wrong with that brand xD what does the copper spray do to the head gasket ?

@drifter92z: damnnn i saw your fb pics and youtube vids. nice man =) i wanna go tracking one day. I like what you did to your s13

@tootall4la: ahaha thanks bro =)

@S13x88: ikr.... idk how or why water would be in there to cause it to rust and stuff. Im changing the flywheel anyways. i tossed that POS flywheel away bahaahhahaha !

[AS240]

the copper spray makes it seal better. i have never seen a head leak when using it, but i have seen them leak without it. it's very cheap and does wonders.
trust me on this one dude.
and clean both block and head surfaces (before putting in the head studs) with alcohol using a cloth rag until they are absolutely clean before setting the head gasket on and bolting them together.

BTW, are you plastigauging the bearings?
and have you scraped all the old head gasket off the deck of the block? i can see a lot of it in the pics. if you haven't, do it with the motor flipped over to avoid old gasket falling into the coolant passages and oil orifices.

[AS240]

it would also be wise to run by a hardware or parts store and pick up a 10x1.5 tap. before setting your head studs into the block, you should consider cleaning the threads out. do this by turning the block upside-down, and running the tap into the headstud/bolt holes until they are clean and you can thread the tap all the way in by hand. thread it in multiple times, cleaning the tap and spraying the hole out with brake parts cleaner or something similar after every time.
you will be surprised with how much crap is left in the block even after the machine shop cleans it. if there is dirt/sand/crap in the threads, then the head stud will not seat all the way down into the head which would then give you inconsistent torque numbers when torquing your head down.
keep the questions coming. the more you ask, the better

[RB180sxChris]

holy crap engine building in your living room!!! you sir are gangsta hahaha.....giving me thoughts on rebuilding my KA hhmmmmm...good luck with everything bro!

[tootall4la]

Awesome progress, keep it up dude
Giving me ideas.
Might build up the courage to rebuild my own engine..
Help me rebuild mine ;) lol

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2

[brucetrann]

@AS240: alrite 10x1.5 tap, copper spray, and clean the block with alcohol. I havent scraped all of it off, but i did a little.
No i did plastigauge my bearings, its stock bearings so i dont think i have to do that.. do i ?
is there any other helpful information or tips i need to know ? you're helping me a lot bro, thanks =)

@RB180sxChris: Ahaha thanks man ! yeahh it beats working outside in the dark where it's cold and with weird people walking around. i just grabbed a monster and started working on it. You should rebuild it if you have money for it! I barely have enough just to do what im doing now xD Thanks for the luck, ill need it. This is my first time doing something like this.

@tootall4la:Yeah dude, you should rebuild your engine man. If you have money for it, why not ? ahaha if you need help, i can help you with what little knowledge i have already =)

[tootall4la]

Yeah I'd rather learn and gain experience on rebuilding a ka..
Thanks.. god knows I will need help lol
That's what the community is for (pay it forward) :)
I need to start saving funds or just blow my financial aid money on my engine ;)

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2

[AS240]

yes you need to plastigauge every bearing. if everything turns out correct, COMPLETELY remove the plastigauge off the journal and replace with the bearing using assembly lube. are you using the factory service manual for torque specs and sequence?
i recommend buying a pack of 50 or so razor blades and getting every single little bit of gasket off. when you think you can't get any more off, change out the blade and go over it again, and again and again. don't forget to do this to the head too, but be careful because the head is aluminum it is easy to cut into it. change blades out often because they dull out very fast. when you are absolutely sure you have all the old head gasket off the head and block, clean it multiple times with alcohol until your rag no longer gets dirty. then spray the head gasket with copper spray (both sides). while waiting for the spray to get tacky, set in the headstuds. tapping and cleaning the head stud threads should be done BEFORE you clean the deck, or else you'll have to clean it all over again.

[brucetrann]

alrite, damn. im waiting for my arp studs to come in the mail. I havent been able to work on my engine bc i did everything else.
T__T

[essthirteeeen42]

Good stuff man!

[punn303]

You can also wire wheel old gasket material off too. AS240 is right, copper spray works well.

[brucetrann]

Look what came in the mail today, FINALLY

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC01083.jpg

also picked up intake manifold from autozone, felpro ! and some new vacuum lines =)

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC01022.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC01021.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC01007.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC01006.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC01004.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x110/brucezer0/DSC01003.jpg

TIME TO DO WORK GUYS, gotta get my shit running

[Nikeboy355]

Maybe this will help... I made this thread years and years ago...

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/137862-rebuilding-ka24de-pics.html

[brucetrann]

Maybe this will help... I made this thread years and years ago...
Thanks, ill take a loook!
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/137862-rebuilding-ka24de-pics.html
Thanks, ill take a loook!

[Walperstyle]

I admire you for doing all this work but I really don't think this is going to be an engine that lasts very long.

1)
Sand blasting pistons? Bad idea.
If you are going to the trouble to take the pistons out, and clean them up, if you take off too much material they become out of spec. I don't see you using a dial gauge to check your bore or

2) plastigague is great. only for checking spec in one area of your mains. It does not check out of round. half an inch over, your crank could be too tight, and cause issues.
I personally found this out the hard way when I purchased a dial gauge, and found out that I was 'out of round'. This required a 'line hone' from the machine shop, different berrings and a micro polish to get them to seat properly.

3) what do you have your ring gap set as?

4) I understand you purchased stuff from the machine shop, but are you positive its all going to be within spec? What is your rod ID vs your Crank OD?

These are some things to take into consideration before you go building your engine. If I would have let the machine shop assemble my bottom end the first time I could have saved several hundred dollars. Doing it right is sometimes letting the professionals do before you find out the hard way. So far in your pictures, I don't see you checking any of the important things.

[brucetrann]

I admire you for doing all this work but I really don't think this is going to be an engine that lasts very long.

1)
Sand blasting pistons? Bad idea.
If you are going to the trouble to take the pistons out, and clean them up, if you take off too much material they become out of spec. I don't see you using a dial gauge to check your bore or

2) plastigague is great. only for checking spec in one area of your mains. It does not check out of round. half an inch over, your crank could be too tight, and cause issues.
I personally found this out the hard way when I purchased a dial gauge, and found out that I was 'out of round'. This required a 'line hone' from the machine shop, different berrings and a micro polish to get them to seat properly.

3) what do you have your ring gap set as?

4) I understand you purchased stuff from the machine shop, but are you positive its all going to be within spec? What is your rod ID vs your Crank OD?

These are some things to take into consideration before you go building your engine. If I would have let the machine shop assemble my bottom end the first time I could have saved several hundred dollars. Doing it right is sometimes letting the professionals do before you find out the hard way. So far in your pictures, I don't see you checking any of the important things.

Well the machine shop i went to said my crank was still good and that my bore, pistons, bearings and ect was standard. I asked what bearings and rings would fit and he said to get standard sized bearings and rings..
most of the engine is already put together. This is a daily drive application so i think it'll be alright. I'm not looking for crazy horse power anymore. Probably when i get older, more experience, and have more money, I'll get something fast.
If anything bad happens, I'll take the consequence.
ahaha wish me luck! Thanks for letting me know

[Walperstyle]

All that trouble, and you still don't mind half-assing it and trusting the machine shop. ...I still don't like the idea of sandblasting pistons though. Not my thing.

[Super Ertoy]

Maybe this will help... I made this thread years and years ago...

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/137862-rebuilding-ka24de-pics.html


pics are not available any more?

[tootall4la]

Updates!

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2

[brucetrann]

currently putting the engine in..

will post pics and vid later =)

[AS240]

awwww yeaahhhhh

[J90lude]

Subscribed!!! GL yo.

[xh3nry]

I'm currently helping Bruce with this project. We got everything put back together and we find that the head gasket is leaking coolant out on the wall of the head/block. This is because head gaskets are a one time use thing and we mounted the head and took it off twice because 1) He forgot to use assembly lube on the bearings and 2) The head studs he ordered were not the right ones. We are currently taking off the head and all the necessary parts to throw on a new head gasket and hopefully all will go well.

[xh3nry]

We did not start the car, coolant was leaking as it was going in.

[xh3nry]

Video of start up:
http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u80/HN_/?action=view&current=M4H01177.mp4
Video of test drive:
http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u80/HN_/?action=view&current=M4H01180.mp4

Started overheating after the test drive, either one of the hoses are damaged or the hose is not connected tight. Also has a vacuum leak i'm assuming because the car stalled after a 4000 rpm drive.

[xh3nry]

New head gasket btw!

[brucetrann]

woooo its running !

[xh3nry]

Need help: The car turns off after being turned on for a minute. Volts of battery drops to 8.9 or 11.5. Thought maybe it's a bad alternator but we just got it checked out and it's good. Battery is 2 months old. What could it be??

[Driftwire]

Great rebuild thread. Bout to start my rebuild on the KA E.

[brucetrann]

its running perfectly now! im at 120 miles right now! breaking her in. yeah if you need help i could help =)

[tootall4la]

Total cost of your rebuild??

[imoverherre]

Nice glad it started and running now I'm about to rebuild my own ka but ima research first all I could to get it all on dial and ima puck up a fsm to help me out?

[brucetrann]

It was about a grand, yeah fsm will help a lot. Just make sure you do everything right the first time, or else youll have to go back later and fix it.