Idle Issues Abound...

[LuckyX2]

Hi,

So my SR has been having a some idle issues for a while now but I'm just getting around to fixing them. I was hoping you guys could offer some tips.

Here are the issues:
-Idles at 1500-2000 both hot and cold. My throttle stop screw is removed btw, so my throttle plate is completely closed and I have the IACV screw screwed in all the way. I have checked for vacuum leaks and nothing...
-Sometimes the idle will climb from 1500 or so up to around 2000 and then drop suddenly back to 1500 and repeat.
-Backfiring/sputtering when I start it, idles and runs smoothly after that (however at a high idle as said)
-Throttle sticks at a stop (sticks closed) Could be because it closes completely with the stop screw removed and there is some "goop" in the body making it sticky?

I have a haltech platinum 1000 standalone (MAP not MAF btw) and I feel that many of these issues may be resolved just by changing settings there. Anyone here have some experience with getting a smooth start/idle out of a standalone on an SR? It runs great everywhere but idle and is embarrassing how it sputters and shakes upon start-up.

Any ideas?

[di-devol]

The screw missing is causing your throttle plate to sick.

Have you been somewhere for tuning? If not, it's hard to fix stuff when un tuned

[LuckyX2]

Any way to get it not to stick with the screw out? Because if I'm getting a 1500-2000 rpm idle with the screw all the way out, I'd hate to see it with the screw holding the plate open a bit...

And no, I'd rather not pay someone to do what I can learn to do myself and have a good experience doing.
One of the reasons I went standalone is so I can learn to tune myself.

So far I got everything except idle/startup running well myself! :)

[bradyd15]

Hi,

So my SR has been having a some idle issues for a while now but I'm just getting around to fixing them. I was hoping you guys could offer some tips.

Here are the issues:
-Idles at 1500-2000 both hot and cold. My throttle stop screw is removed btw, so my throttle plate is completely closed and I have the IACV screw screwed in all the way. I have checked for vacuum leaks and nothing...
-Sometimes the idle will climb from 1500 or so up to around 2000 and then drop suddenly back to 1500 and repeat.
-Backfiring/sputtering when I start it, idles and runs smoothly after that (however at a high idle as said)
-Throttle sticks at a stop (sticks closed) Could be because it closes completely with the stop screw removed and there is some "goop" in the body making it sticky?

I have a haltech platinum 1000 standalone (MAP not MAF btw) and I feel that many of these issues may be resolved just by changing settings there. Anyone here have some experience with getting a smooth start/idle out of a standalone on an SR? It runs great everywhere but idle and is embarrassing how it sputters and shakes upon start-up.

Any ideas?

TPS sensor, maf sensor, or timing could be off. Are you using e-fans? Alternator check? Or throttle plate sticking like di-devol suggest. Check all.

[LuckyX2]

-TPS voltage is good, as confirmed by the Haltech.
-I'm MAP, not MAF.
-Base timing is good and then advanced a bit by the Haltech.
-Alternator should be good, my battery isn't dying or anything like that.
-I have electric fans, yes.
-I'll take a look at the throttle tonight.

Thanks.

[cotbu]

I'm going off experience here and say, you don't have coolant lines going to the IACV.
Just because the symptoms are high and uncontrollable idle.

I have a few tricks for that issue, but the best fix is to run the coolant lines.

[HPKMotorsports3]

I'm going off experience here and say, you don't have coolant lines going to the IACV.
Just because the symptoms are high and uncontrollable idle.

I have a few tricks for that issue, but the best fix is to run the coolant lines.

Please explain in more detail... Thanks

[LuckyX2]

I'm going off experience here and say, you don't have coolant lines going to the IACV.
Just because the symptoms are high and uncontrollable idle.

I have a few tricks for that issue, but the best fix is to run the coolant lines.

YES! I think you may have gotten it. I know there's a little wax pellet in there that expands/contracts with the coolant temp but I didn't think it was that big of an issue. Guess I was wrong lol.

When I put on my greddy knockoff intake manifold, the coolant lines didn't reach the IACV anymore and so I just plugged them. Sould have taken the time and gotten new hose :facepalm:

So what are these "tricks" you mentioned before I go ahead and rip off my manifold. Plus not having those coolant lines on makes it a hell of a lot easier to get the manifold off/on.

[cotbu]

Explain what, exactly? If the op says, he has coolant lines running to the iacv? then this isn't the problem unless air is still in his system. The tricks are too force the iacv to relearn a lower airflow.

Being from the east coast I've dealt with the uncontrollable idle and repaired the issue both ways multiple times. Action depends on whether or not coolant lines are ran.

The trick is to run a restriction in the IACV line, the ecu and iacv will compensate, this take a while. Normally a few hours of driving. Will not say it's permanent!

[LuckyX2]

Explain what, exactly? If the op says, he has coolant lines running to the iacv? then this isn't the problem unless air is still in his system. The tricks are too force the iacv to relearn a lower airflow.

Being from the east coast I've dealt with the uncontrollable idle and repaired the issue both ways multiple times. Action depends on whether or not coolant lines are ran.

I do not have the coolant lines. How do you force it to relearn a lower airflow?

EDIT: Just saw you posted the trick. I have a standalone so the ECU doesn't "learn" anything about the IACV but rather I hard-code it in myself.

[cotbu]

Might be easier to just run the lines.
extra info:
I call it a trick because some people needed to pass inspection and would have failed with a high idle. After inspection with the restriction removed idle was normal and able to be controlled again.

[LuckyX2]

Apparently the coolant lines (for the TB) are also responsible for the throttle sticking too:

extra coolant lines required? [Archive] - FreshAlloy.com Forums (http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-142172.html)

[LuckyX2]

So I put the coolant lines on today and it's all good now. Idle is down to 1200 cold, 900 or so warm and the hunting is gone. Also, because the idle was lower I was able to put the throttle stop screw back in and the throttle no longer sticks.

It's like driving a whole new car...

[cotbu]

Now drive the shit out of it! ;)

Sent from my Highly Tuned Vibrant!!

[LuckyX2]

Will do. Thanks for your coolant line tip!