ka24de lower radiator hose cold

[cfvasquez12]

so i rebuilt my ka24de all standard parts nothing else and when i put it back in my car started to bleed the cooling system and notice that the tempreature will get to normal and once i started to drive it it the tempreature will rise and i though was just air so i bleed the system augen and found that the lower hose was cold so my first instinct was the water pump, so i replaced the water pump, and the problem still came up.
the set up:
-new water pump
-new radiator
-new radiator cap
-new coling hoses all around even the ones that go to and from the trothle body
-changed the thermostat 3 times with a new one
-the upper and lower radiator hoses have less then 10k on them
i thought that there was air in the system so i tryed countless times bleding the system and still get the same result. i am about to just take the thermosata out and run it like that. !!!!!!Need help!!!!!!!
the car has been sitting in my garage for about 3 year and i already want to drive it!!!!

[Agamemnon]

I had the same issue. Turns out that that a pocket of air was keeping coolant from reaching the t-stat, preventing it from opening, thus not being able to completely bleed the system. I resolved it by taking some strong wire cutters and snipping off the jiggle valve and opening up the hole just ever so slightly.

[cfvasquez12]

i dont get it can you be more specific and use vocabulary that i can understand

[cfvasquez12]

oh okay u completele cut off the jiggle valve or you just file it down?

[Tantwoforty]

I would conduct a series of flow tests with my garden hose.
I would take off the top and bottom hoses completely and stick the hose on moderate pressure right in the rad and see if water flows out the bottom port, if so, good.
then i would remove the thermostat and flow the hose through there and run water through the engine and see if water pops out the other water port on the engine, if so then good.
then i would boil the thermostat and make sure it opens
then i would put the thermo back in and re install the bottom hose, but i would fill every port i could up with water and put it on in a way where you try to keep as much water in it as possible.
then, with the rad cap off i would run the engine at idle and let it heat up, it should bubble and spit some water out the top, keep feeding it water every time you can fit some.
eventually it will start to bubble and boil out of the top, you can rev it alittle now and then and see if your water pump is working, it will bubble some water out, once you stop seeing air bubbles and only see steaming water coming out, you can turn it off, slowly fill it up as much as you can and then drive it around. this is how ive blead the air out of every car ive ever done and its always worked for me.
check the temp very often while doing this, its ok if the temp barley starts to move up but thats when you need to shut it off, but ive never had that happen while doing this.
After that, after you test drive it around and make sure its not overheating anymore, you can drain some water and add coolant, no point to add coolant untill you know your not gonna have to drain it again because coolant is expensive.

[Jtuned_andy]

Bleeding your coolant can be frustrating sometimes. You need to make sure that your t-stat is opening properly.

My RB is terrible with trapped air pockets. I dont have a bleeder screw so I have to do the following steps.

1.) jack up front of car so air bubbles rise
2.) fill coolant, leave rad cap off
3.) let car heat up
-heater control knobs to HOT, air circulation OFF
4.) if you have e-fans let them cycle AT LEAST twice
5.) once your t-stat opens, your lower hose WILL get hot. if your lower hose isnt getting hot, the t-stat has not opened indicating there is still air in the system

[darkslide92]

I would conduct a series of flow tests with my garden hose.
I would take off the top and bottom hoses completely and stick the hose on moderate pressure right in the rad and see if water flows out the bottom port, if so, good.
then i would remove the thermostat and flow the hose through there and run water through the engine and see if water pops out the other water port on the engine, if so then good.
then i would boil the thermostat and make sure it opens
then i would put the thermo back in and re install the bottom hose, but i would fill every port i could up with water and put it on in a way where you try to keep as much water in it as possible.
then, with the rad cap off i would run the engine at idle and let it heat up, it should bubble and spit some water out the top, keep feeding it water every time you can fit some.
eventually it will start to bubble and boil out of the top, you can rev it alittle now and then and see if your water pump is working, it will bubble some water out, once you stop seeing air bubbles and only see steaming water coming out, you can turn it off, slowly fill it up as much as you can and then drive it around. this is how ive blead the air out of every car ive ever done and its always worked for me.
check the temp very often while doing this, its ok if the temp barley starts to move up but thats when you need to shut it off, but ive never had that happen while doing this.
After that, after you test drive it around and make sure its not overheating anymore, you can drain some water and add coolant, no point to add coolant untill you know your not gonna have to drain it again because coolant is expensive.
Did you do all this with the bleeder screw open or closed?

[rcdad123]

try snipping the jiggle valve off the thermostat and enlarge it to 1/8 inch, then drill another 1/8 inch holes on each side of the first 1/8 inch hole. make sure the 3 holes are on top, 12 oclock position, when you put the thermostat back in. this mod will make bleeding the cooling system much easier and faster. i do this mod on all of the thermostat i replace, no matter what engine. never had a problem.