Sr20 running horrible help!!

[boris13]

Ok first of thanks for looking and trying to help today i had hooked up my maf and break boost hose and started the sr took her to get some gas and it feels like crap.I rev and it wont boost or it will spool very little about 3psi i dont have a boost gadge so i cant tell the blow off valve has a compressor surge and wen i got home it was smoking white/gray and i heard a fait ticking coming from the valve cover im not too sure on how to set up my vacuum hoses and i get a code 12 wen i run a diagnostic i have a sohc maf with the sohc maf plug wired right im stumped i need my car by the 30 for school any help would be appriciated!!!:smash:

[boris13]

bump.........

[89JDM240sx]

Do you have the Sr Maf? What kind of gas did you use? You could a bad wastegate... It might be getting stuck open

[boris13]

Im using a sohc maf with 91 premium gas i had taken it around the block and it feels slow and it wont boost up it and the blow off valve bearly blows off and i can already hear the compressor surge and i hear a taping coming from the valve cover i was thinking the VCT but im not sure thanks for replying im stumped

[boris13]

would a bad maf cause the car to not run right and smoke up?? the maf came off my ka24e and was working on it so i know its in good condition

[boris13]

bumppppp..............

[spools420a]

sounds like a boost leak,the ticking is usually a sign that theres a leak at the exhaust manifold which will make a tick sound from the valves.

[boris13]

ok heres how i have my vacuums set up on the throttle body top left is going to the fpr top right is going to the top nipple on my blow off valve and the bottom left is going to the waist gate is this correct i dont have my egr connected would it create a boost leak? im also using a ka sohc maf idk if it would work ive searched and read that it will work??

[boris13]

sounds like a boost leak,the ticking is usually a sign that theres a leak at the exhaust manifold which will make a tick sound from the valves.

and when i rev it my blow off valve wont blow off only when i drive it but you can bearly hear it thanks for the help

[89JDM240sx]

Ok... You need a Z32 or the stock Maf... Sohc Mafs don't read enough air for the Sr comp it'll run like crap...

[boris13]

Ok... You need a Z32 or the stock Maf... Sohc Mafs don't read enough air for the Sr comp it'll run like crap...

mk im about to go get one ill let you know when i swap it out but wouldnt i need a tune for it to run right? i would need the plug for it as well right and my egr isnt connected would it cause a boost leak?:ugh:

[boris13]

Would it run like crap and not spool do to an exhaust leak.?

[Kingtal0n]

You mentioned VTC. Do you own an S14 SR20DET? If so, a SOHC KA MAF will NOT work. If you own an S13 engine, with the #62 or #E5 ECU, then it does not have VTC, and a SOHC KA maf WILL work just fine.

#2 how long have you owned the engine. Smoking on initial startup is normal if it is the first time you have ever run the engine since it came from japan. that should go away in about 2hours-5hours of run time.

#3 Faint tapping from the valve cover of SR20DET engines is normal... FAINT tapping... it should be barely audible click click click click with no abnormal clicks in between.

#4 You said you dont have a boost gauge, and then you mentioned 3psi. There is no way for you to tell how much boost you have without a gauge, you need a gauge.

#5 Boost leaks cause serious problem for MAF engines. make a boost leak checker, and find all the small leaks in your plumbing, it will make the car run right, if everything else is right.

[boris13]

K it's an s13 sr20det red top #62 ecu with a KA sohc Maf thanks for the reply yes it was the first time I actually got it running and stay running ok I got the swap with a half ass exhaust literally cut in half thus making a major exhaust leak.? I'm going to buy a full 3inch exhaust tomorrow and take it to a muffler shop to have the dwn pipe welded right and see how it goes I will also buy a boost gadge and a air to fuel ratio gadge as well like I said thanks for the help it's very appriciated tapping went away trying to find the vac leak today it has a t25 turbo but with a ghetto exhaust would it cause the turbo not to build boost.? And my blow off valve wont blow off as well sorry I'm a newb to sr20s I got tired of the ka and wanted to go turbo so I'm learning as I go I did the swap by my self.

[89JDM240sx]

Let us know how it goes

[boris13]

Well I changed the Maf and it got worse I still have the KA stock fuel pump and filter on..

I think that could be another factor to the problem I'm going to buy a 300zx TT fuel filter and put the walboro fuel pump on today after court -__-

I also got a boost gauge and im going to hook it up today as well hopefully that sorts everything out and I got another question on the right side of my valve cover (standing in front of the car) there's a hose that T's off into the valve cover and I'm guessing to a black box?(oil catch res.) and were it T's off its nt connected to anything.. Could that cause a boost leak? If so were do I hook it up to my egr??

Again thanks for the help guys!!

[boris13]

UPDATE!!

So i put the 300zx tt fuel filter on and i also put a walboro fuel pump on and a boost gauge and she pulled beautiful but then started lagging and died and alot i mean alot of white smoke was coming out wen i opend her up any ideas what it could be now??

[ultimateirving]

Well I changed the Maf and it got worse I still have the KA stock fuel pump and filter on..

I think that could be another factor to the problem I'm going to buy a 300zx TT fuel filter and put the walboro fuel pump on today after court -__-

I also got a boost gauge and im going to hook it up today as well hopefully that sorts everything out and I got another question on the right side of my valve cover (standing in front of the car) there's a hose that T's off into the valve cover and I'm guessing to a black box?(oil catch res.) and were it T's off its nt connected to anything.. Could that cause a boost leak? If so were do I hook it up to my egr??

Again thanks for the help guys!!

that T that goes into the catchcan i think then goes into the exhaust manifold. if it is going into the atmosphere, that would cause a boost/vac leak

[89JDM240sx]

Are those the stock injectors? How much boost is it running?

[boris13]

Yea it has stock injectors I have another pair of injectors sitting here when I took her around the block the boost gauge read 8-10psi?

And at idle she reads -10/11.?? When I shifted it fluttered as well I haven't changed the spark plugs or sea foamed it.. Nt sure if it would make a difference

[boris13]

Bumpp.????

[Nicelyphe]

That other side of the T goes to the intake pipe in the rubber hose on the opening closest to the turbo from what I could picture in my head. Also what BOV are you using, is it recirculated? At idle your boost gauge should be about 20hg [-20] if thats how your reading it. I'm guessing this SR is not stock? Are you using a boost controller/wastegate of any sort?

[di-devol]

Ok... You need a Z32 or the stock Maf... Sohc Mafs don't read enough air for the Sr comp it'll run like crap...

This is false, you can run a sohc maf just fine. I ran one till I melted a piston(Which had nothing to do with the maf).

Just putting it out there.

[boris13]

This is false, you can run a sohc maf just fine. I ran one till I melted a piston(Which had nothing to do with the maf).

Just putting it out there.

k cuz from what i heard i need a z32 maf and im running a SOHC KA MAF so i should be good on that

[boris13]

That other side of the T goes to the intake pipe in the rubber hose on the opening closest to the turbo from what I could picture in my head. Also what BOV are you using, is it recirculated? At idle your boost gauge should be about 20hg [-20] if thats how your reading it. I'm guessing this SR is not stock? Are you using a boost controller/wastegate of any sort?

K im using a greddy type S? and i dont have a boost controller just a boost gauge im going to post pics of what im talking about so u guys know what im trying to fix

[boris13]

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0376.jpg
This is what my boost gauge reads on idle



http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0378.jpg
this is my blow off valve i only have one hose connected to the top nipple nothing connected to the bottom

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0379.jpg
this is the hose i was talking about it was not connected to anything but i got a hose and connected it to my egr? you can see it next to the black catch can

im really stumped i just want to be able to drive my 240 its bin soo long but at the same time i dont want to rush and blow my turbo or motor for that fact

[di-devol]

^ Get rid of all the egr stuff.

k cuz from what i heard i need a z32 maf and im running a SOHC KA MAF so i should be good on that
You can't run a Z32 Maf without some kind of tuning.

[boris13]

^ Get rid of all the egr stuff.


You can't run a Z32 Maf without some kind of tuning.

How do I get rid of the egr stuff.?

[di-devol]

Take a pic of your whole engine bay so we can see how you even hooked it up, I didn't even know one could run a egr on an sr. Did the Sr come with that?

[Nicelyphe]

Yea get rid of the EGR stuff, Also are you running the stock rubber intake pipe? There should be two ends coming out of the intake pipe, one being for you to put a hose on the big round opening of that greddy BOV to the intake pipe [RECIRCULATING IT], then that hose you have from the T going to the EGR your going to take it off the EGR and connect that hose to the other input on the intake hose. I'll grab pics for you when I'm out of work later today also.

The boost gauge should be reading 20 in vac rather than 10. May be leaking somewhere, get a can of carb cleaner/starting fluid and spray it around hoses that air travel through, should have a change in idle if the fluid enters a leaky spot. You have your Idle air control valve hose connected to the intercooler cold pipe correct? Make sure those clamps are tight as well.

Also I'd watch out for that loom of wires near the exhaust manifold. And where do you have your turbo's wastegate vacuum line going from/to.

[Nicelyphe]

How do I get rid of the egr stuff.?

Id first pull those two hoses off that EGR valve, plug the one closest to the manifold and run the one from the T to the intake tube. Then work from there and see if that helps.

[boris13]

Take a pic of your whole engine bay so we can see how you even hooked it up, I didn't even know one could run a egr on an sr. Did the Sr come with that?

Ok and the egr came with it

[boris13]

Yea get rid of the EGR stuff, Also are you running the stock rubber intake pipe? There should be two ends coming out of the intake pipe, one being for you to put a hose on the big round opening of that greddy BOV to the intake pipe [RECIRCULATING IT], then that hose you have from the T going to the EGR your going to take it off the EGR and connect that hose to the other input on the intake hose. I'll grab pics for you when I'm out of work later today also.

The boost gauge should be reading 20 in vac rather than 10. May be leaking somewhere, get a can of carb cleaner/starting fluid and spray it around hoses that air travel through, should have a change in idle if the fluid enters a leaky spot. You have your Idle air control valve hose connected to the intercooler cold pipe correct? Make sure those clamps are tight as well.

Also I'd watch out for that loom of wires near the exhaust manifold. And where do you have your turbo's wastegate vacuum line going from/to.


K I got the waist gate connected to the bottom left nipple on the throttle body n imma take more pics so u can see how all my pipes are set up along with vacuums n all

[boris13]

For diagram reference of the removal I found this. Hope it helps in some way for you to organize and determine what some of your lines are for and going to/from.

EGR Delete information - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash (http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/24765-egr-delete-information.html)

But I wouldn't really go with following this just yet..Do you have a carbon canister[black round cylindar thing kinda near drivers side headlight]? If not then thats a start.

Id first pull those two hoses off that EGR valve, plug the one closest to the manifold and run the one from the T to the intake tube. Then work from there and see if that helps.

K let me look into that guide thanks n yes I have the charcoal canister I'm about to take pictures of my engine bay

[Nicelyphe]

K let me look into that guide thanks n yes I have the charcoal canister I'm about to take pictures of my engine bay


Disregard the guide, just took notice it was for N/A sr20's. The item your calling an EGR valve is actually an AIV valve, and yet again, is not needed.

[di-devol]

^If it's the AIV, then is this connected to your turbo elbow? If it is you need to get a plug for that.

[boris13]

^If it's the AIV, then is this connected to your turbo elbow? If it is you need to get a plug for that.

a plug as in to cap it off??

[Nicelyphe]

Gonna have to block off any flow of exhaust from that hole. You could get an aftermarket elbow, they only have the 02 sensor hole in them.

This is most likely how your setup looks currently. Stock elbow and the AIV

http://media.photobucket.com/image/SR20DET%20turbo%20elbow/jakesigue/Parts/Picture006.jpg

And heres an example of a aftermarket elbow with the aiv port pre-deleted.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silvia-S13-S14-S15-SR20DET-Turbo-Elbow-Outlet-Dump-Pipe-/300299239684?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item45eb3ac104

[boris13]

Gonna have to block off any flow of exhaust from that hole. You could get an aftermarket elbow, they only have the 02 sensor hole in them.

This is most likely how your setup looks currently. Stock elbow and the AIV

Sr20det turbo elbow image by jakesigue on Photobucket (http://media.photobucket.com/image/SR20DET%20turbo%20elbow/jakesigue/Parts/Picture006.jpg)

And heres an example of a aftermarket elbow with the aiv port pre-deleted.

Silvia S13 S14 S15 SR20DET Turbo Elbow Outlet Dump Pipe | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silvia-S13-S14-S15-SR20DET-Turbo-Elbow-Outlet-Dump-Pipe-/300299239684?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item45eb3ac104)

Ok yea heres the thing my steering wheel wont turn because of that pipe from the avi its rusted to shit so i dought ill be able to take it off:bite:

[Nicelyphe]

Yea =\, gonna have to most likely pick up an aftermarket elbow. It's your best bet and then you dont have to worry about any modification. Install and your good.

[boris13]

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0380.jpg
This is whats causing my steering wheel not to turn

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0385.jpg
charcol canister?

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0381.jpg
what is this plug on the turbo??

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0386.jpg
engine bay pics it looks horibble but i just want to get it running

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0382.jpg

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0387.jpg

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0383.jpg

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0384.jpg

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0389.jpg

[boris13]

the electrical tape is jus so i dont have a boost leak i dont think it worked tho..

[Lil_D]

the bov should be recirculated. if you are using the nipple on the lower left of the throttle body you arent getting enough vaccum for the waste gate. the nipple on the turbo is a vaccum line.

[Nicelyphe]

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/1481/img0380p.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/img0380p.jpg/)

Going to have to remove this and plug somehow, or get an aftermarket elbow.


http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/782/img0382zd.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/img0382zd.jpg/)

That looks like an AC line, I cannot tell if its going into your intake pipe for any reason, or going under it. Blue lines are where a hose should be, one from BOV to intake pipe, one from T to Intake pipe. Remove AIV. And whats that hose running across the top of your valve cover?

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/361/img0384d.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/198/img0384d.jpg/)

Also this hose is going to you IACV, doesn't look to secure. Most likely a vacuum leak. I would clamp that down [on both ends if not], it also doesnt look to be on the intake tube very well, I'd get a longer hose and replace that one. Wheres that vacuum line going that on the bottom left of the throttle body? I believe that one is plugged on mine.

What is that white mess right there in between the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator? Right above the intake pipe I was just previously talking about. Looks like a bunch of teflon tape.


Electrical tape = no go on covering a boost leak from what I would think, if you think theres a leak there try tightening that clamp a bt more. I'm going to take some pictures of my bay sometime and then you can see a little better on some things. Yes that is a carbon canister, it could be deleted as well.

[boris13]

ok i just went to my 240 and i took that pipe that was restricting my steering wheel from turning and i cut it off with a grinder i plugged it up with this high temp silicone that my friend gave me he told me to use it on the gasket for the down pipe that connects to the turbo elbow but i used it to plug it up as well

he said to wait a full 24hrs before starting the car because it will get hot real quick and it will just melt off and will be no good

as for the hose running across the valve cover its my maf wires i didnt want them to get caught in the fan and mess up my wiring harness

the hose for the IACV i took off the old and rotted one and replaced it with a new good one and clamped it at both ends

the bottom left hose on the throttle body is connected to my waist gate idk if thats right i searched on here for a vacuum diagram and read that i can run it to my waist gate and it will be fine correct me if im wrong if so were does the waist gate vacuum go to??

the vacuum on the turbo where does that one go to??(the one thats plugged up)

as for the teflon tape its connected to my boost gauge i just wanted to make sure that i wasnt leaking any air through there so i get correct readings the way i had to plug it up was crazy the hose it came with just kept sliding out..

as for the hose that goes from the blow off valve to the intake pipe and that Ts of to the intake as well how would i go about doing that i have no nipples on my intake pipe:/

[boris13]

http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o528/boris13787/IMG_0390.jpg
I aslo found this I have no idea what it is its cut and not connected to anything

[Nicelyphe]

Looks like a sender of some-sort, is that tapped into the turbo?? Also where did you get that intake pipe from? You able to source a stock intake pipe just for trial and error to figure out your issue in the mean time? It's dark over here at the moment but im going to attempt to grab some pictures haha.

[Kingtal0n]

"the vacuum on the turbo where does that one go to??(the one thats plugged up)"

The plugged line will never show a vacuum because it is tapped to the compressor. I would use it for the wastegate signal, that is, run it directly to the wastegate with No T's to anything else!

On the throttle body, there is a one vacuum port that does not show vacuum when the throttle body is closed. You can find it when you run the engine, it will not suck any air when the throttle body is closed. DO NOT connect this port to the fuel pressure regulator, or the blow-off valve. You CAN use it for a boost gauge, but it will not show vacuum during throttle closed position. It is designed for the emissions system.

Use a vacuum port that displays full-time vacuum, when the engine is running, it will be presenting a vacuum. Use ONE for the fuel pressure regulator AND bypass valve... and thats it! do not T it off to anything else or response will suffer.

High temp silicone will not stop that exhaust leak. You need to unscrew that rusty line, and stick a nickel under it, then re tighten. Buy an aftermarket elbow for the future but a coin will work for now.

[boris13]

Lol thanks I appriciate the help and yea it's tapped into the turbo I don't think it's the o2 sensor and the only intake piping I have is the one that's on the car right now and the stock Ka Sohc..

Not sure if it would work tho

[boris13]

"the vacuum on the turbo where does that one go to??(the one thats plugged up)"

The plugged line will never show a vacuum because it is tapped to the compressor. I would use it for the wastegate signal, that is, run it directly to the wastegate with No T's to anything else!

On the throttle body, there is a one vacuum port that does not show vacuum when the throttle body is closed. You can find it when you run the engine, it will not suck any air when the throttle body is closed. DO NOT connect this port to the fuel pressure regulator, or the blow-off valve. You CAN use it for a boost gauge, but it will not show vacuum during throttle closed position. It is designed for the emissions system.

Use a vacuum port that displays full-time vacuum, when the engine is running, it will be presenting a vacuum. Use ONE for the fuel pressure regulator AND bypass valve... and thats it! do not T it off to anything else or response will suffer.

High temp silicone will not stop that exhaust leak. You need to unscrew that rusty line, and stick a nickel under it, then re tighten. Buy an aftermarket elbow for the future but a coin will work for now.

The waist gate to the plugged turbo vac and I just cap the bottom left nipple in the throttle body?

And any advice to how to get it to turn loose with out stripping the bolt.?

[Nicelyphe]

Yea cap the bottom left, I have a picture of that.

Kingtalon is saying run your wastegate off the compressor of the turbo, where that plugged line is with that bolt, just remove the vacuum line from that nipple and put a vacuum line from the wastegate to that nipple. My wastegate is connected to a nipple that I have installed in my intercooler piping, but that's just another method to the madness.

Here's some pics for you too take a look at.


My source for wastegate [disregard that clamp, working on that in a few haha.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/B0RN2KILL200/9355298a.jpg

Throttle body
- Left nipple is going to my Fuel pressure reg. and tee's off to my boost gauge.
- Right nipple is BOV ONLY
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/B0RN2KILL200/e5df9fec.jpg

In this picture you can see the bottom left nipple capped.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/B0RN2KILL200/7476ffd4.jpg

Hose coming off tee then leading down to intake pipe. I've seen people just put breather filters on this end of the T. But I have no experience with that..
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/B0RN2KILL200/8ffda0ed.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/B0RN2KILL200/daad6ef2.jpg

Here's the BOV recirculating setup with stock sr intake pipe.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/B0RN2KILL200/83b3e33f.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/B0RN2KILL200/38b005b0.jpg


Hope this helps you out a bit.

[boris13]

dude thanks ALOT im going to do this set up tomorrow by any chance does ur BOV still blow off?? ive never seen a set up like urs i wish i could do it right now but im about to go to school :/ and could i just drill a hole in my intake pipe and run it from the BOV to it and buy a nipple or would i have to change it to a sr stock intake..

what kind of maf are you running on it the only thing that tripps me out is why does it throw out so much smoke when i drive it i know king talon you said its normal when first starting the motor but i mean it throws out white smoke excessively like in an over exaggerated amount ill take a video and show you how it runs would sea foaming it make a diffrence?

and it doesnt look like you have that same sensor thats on myne what turbo are you running?

[Nicelyphe]

Not a problem. Yea you cold nipple your pipe and run the BOV to it, just got to get a big enough fitting cause the BOV hole is like 19mm or something around there. My BOV blows off every time with any issues. You don't exactly have to change it to stock intake pipe if you dont want to, just modify yours.

My MAFS is the actual SR mafs. I heard the KA MAFS works just the same.

My turbo is the stock t25 that s13 blacktop sr's are equip with from factory. No I do not have that sensor looking thing, I don't really have an idea of what that could be. All I can think of is maybe someone wanted to read exhaust temp readings or something of that sort at one time. It looks like its tapped into the exhaust side of the turbo.

[boris13]

Yea Well I'll try tomorrow to see what I can come up with so at stock boost the gauge should read -20 at idle?

And well hopefully this fixes everything and if it keeps smoking up bad I'll just sea foam it and put new spark plugs and check for any improvement I mean my vacuums will be right so i dont think it should anything should go wrong unless its fuel related but then again i could still have a boost leak some where ill make a boost leak tester as well I'll post an update when I fail miserably again :/

[Nicelyphe]

Yea -20 at idle is good. Yea drive it for a bit and see if it clears up, hopefully nothing major. Also for your inter cooler couplers these things are a charm.

Tbolt Clamps 2.25 2.5 2.75 3.0 3.25 3.5 3.75 4.0 T BOLT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tbolt-Clamps-2-25-2-5-2-75-3-0-3-25-3-5-3-75-4-0-T-BOLT-/310374129330?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4843bd5eb2)

A lot better of a hold than regular hose clamps, and can be tightened down real nice with ease.


Keep us updated, it's a learning experience, for you, and others now that may run into the same issues in the future.

[boris13]

K dude once again thank you guys for all the help you don't know howuch it means to me I'm about to get home n run ur set up I'll update the progress so everyone can read this if their having any problems

As for those clamps I got them on every coupler and I re did all of them and tied them down till it couldn't go anymore hopefully it eliminates any boost leak through the piping ill post an update soon as I take her around the block again to see if it got better.

[boris13]

K i found a hole in the intake pipe can I run a vac hose from the bottom nipple of the blow off valve to the intake and have it recirculated.? Or does it have to be from the front big hole the hole I found is small enough for the vacuum hose..

[Nicelyphe]

Big hole, that's where the air releases from the BOV which in when it working order it recycles the air back into the intake and into the turbo. Its not completely neccessary to recirculate, just helps with response, and idle and such. Id plug that small hole you found though. Also maybe in the future fabricate something up so you can recirculate that BOV sometime.

[boris13]

K well I found it but it was already plugged up I guess so i can unplugg it and put something in it but I'll just leave it plugged up I don't have to put a vacuum to the bottom nipple right?

[Nicelyphe]

Correct, as far as I know a line doesnt go to that bottom nipple on greddy BOV's. Any progress with re routing the wastegate and the BOV and such? Try and get it started?

[boris13]

Well I re routed the vacuum line from the bottom Waist gate to the nipple on the turbo and I switched the cap that the turbo nipple had to the bottom left nipple on the throttle body and I re clamped the clamps on the from the intake to the turbo I haven't started it yet but I'm about to

[boris13]

Ok I started it and it won't idle-_- after I re routed the waist gate to the nipple on the turbo it won't idle at all I start it and I have to give it has in order to keep it alive..

[Lil_D]

run the nipple on the turbo to the bov and run the wastegate to the intake manifold

[Nicelyphe]

I've never seen it routed like that ^

[Lil_D]

ive always run the wastegate to the manifold. but my turbo has never had a nipple on it

[boris13]

is it irregular for it just to stop idleing i finished messing withthe fuel pump till i got a head ache :/ well i got it to idle again but i switched back the vacuums and reinstalled the fuel pump but its still saying -10 it was at -11 yesterday now its just at -10

[Lil_D]

-10 is fine thats what mine idled at

[boris13]

Ok and as for the white smoke that comes out when I drive it? it fills the car up an the car stalls and won't want to turn back on

[boris13]

Would it be Maf related.? I got a friend that gone lend me an sr20 Maf to see if that helps. But that's till Saturday:/ I'm out of ideas..

[Nicelyphe]

Got a picture? Hopefully not burning coolant >_< So your vacuums didn't work the way mine were set-up? Hmm...

[boris13]

Well no I tryed it and it wouldn't idle and when I switched it back it idled I thought it was my fuel pump not priming but it wasn't so I waisted an hour trying to resolve the problem and well it only smokes up when I'm driving it and put it under boost but at idle it won't smoke up and when I put it in neutral and have it in my garage it will smoke up but then stop smoking up at idle wen I'm not driving it weird huh.??

I had my friend come by cause he has an sr20 and I wanted him to hear my motor to see if it was healthy and he said it sounds decent no rod knock or anything of that nature he said the Maf might be the problem but would the Maf cause it to smoke up like that.? Unless my turbo seal is bad and it's burning up oil.? Of its burning up oil how would the smoke look and what about coolant what color of smoke would it put out if it's burning coolant and why would it be burning coolant in the first place.?

[Nicelyphe]

Coolant burns white, usually if head gasket is bad..But I think it would be for consistant, check the coolant level for the hell of it. Try disconnecting the MAF while the car is on does it stay running, or change at all? Also try your buddys SR MAFS. Oil burns a hint of blue. Maybe let it sit outside and let it idle for some time and see if it clears up? Is it steadly running on all 4 cyls? Whats your idle sit at? Are you building boost ok?

[JDMRIDDAZ]

it may not idle cause the iacv may not have 12v to it
also is ur maf wired correctly?
alot of the time matching wire colors at the plugs for the sr swap
doesnt mean that the wires r getting proper signal
i rewired ecu/sensors/ with a relay to insure full voltage
coilpacks have two seperate relays
also that bov looks like a cx racing one
take it off and check how hard it is to push by hand...
if it is then u may need to mod the spring inside....
anyhow alot of sr not idling correctly is iacv is not getting sufficient 12v signal
and smoking only under boost...
does it smell like fuel?
it sounds like a boost leak
or the coolant temp sensor...it can be messed up and still not throw the code
and recirculating BOV is just masking the tru issue...
ive never needed to do this...in 4yrs...cause its the ebay bov that do it..even greddy..the spring gets too hard and doesnt blow off strong enough and causes surging..etc...

[boris13]

Well I still have the SOHC tach so it doesn't read rpms or mph only temp and gas and last time I took it around the block she pulled so beautiful and seems to build up boost just fine went up to 9-10 psi but again she doesn't smoke up at idle or on initial start up or when I rev it for that matter only wen I drive it around then I put it in neutral and let it sit and the smoke goes away

when I disconnect the MAF it does change the idle it will drop then come up n run and wen I connect it it will drop come up and run ok but its only when i drive her it starts smoking up it will sputter and die then I have to wait5 secs n turn her on again I'm confused as to what it could be

I've searched about the head gasket but it seems to me that If it was bad it would be smoking up all the time when I don't want to drive it and bend a rod or anything like that so I try not to mess with her till I got that Maf wen I get it I'll buy sea foam and I already got NGK spark plugs that I'm going to swap out see if it helps any at all but I want to swap all the parts at once to see if any change occurs

Could it be symptoms of water in the engine wen I swapped it in I changed the oil an it looked black no signs of water or metal pices I hope my engines good:/..

[Nicelyphe]

I'm sure the engine itself is ok, it's def a matter of other things such as JDMRIDDAZ states with the whole BOV thing, and possible sensor issues.

[boris13]

it may not idle cause the iacv may not have 12v to it
also is ur maf wired correctly?
alot of the time matching wire colors at the plugs for the sr swap
doesnt mean that the wires r getting proper signal
i rewired ecu/sensors/ with a relay to insure full voltage
coilpacks have two seperate relays
also that bov looks like a cx racing one
take it off and check how hard it is to push by hand...
if it is then u may need to mod the spring inside....
anyhow alot of sr not idling correctly is iacv is not getting sufficient 12v signal
and smoking only under boost...
does it smell like fuel?
it sounds like a boost leak
or the coolant temp sensor...it can be messed up and still not throw the code
and recirculating BOV is just masking the tru issue...
ive never needed to do this...in 4yrs...cause its the ebay bov that do it..even greddy..the spring gets too hard and doesnt blow off strong enough and causes surging..etc...

Yea I'll take the BOV off n see how hard it is to push and I'm going to make a boost leak tester today and see what's up I haven't checked the coolant temp sensor on my SOHC KA my coolant temp sensor went bad and it would cause the engine to Over heat and die and it wouldnt want to start idk if it would be the same for an SR but when I drive the car it does not over heat at all

[boris13]

I'm sure the engine itself is ok, it's def a matter of other things such as JDMRIDDAZ states with the whole BOV thing, and possible sensor issues.

:bash:well i got my Maf wired color to color im not sure if the SR maf wires are diffrent than the SOHC KA wires i dought they would be diffrent correct me if im wrong tho ever since i bought this car they are so needy i dont think ive every owned a car that has needed so much tender loving care:barfkiss:

[JDMRIDDAZ]

I'm sure the engine itself is ok, it's def a matter of other things such as JDMRIDDAZ states with the whole BOV thing, and possible sensor issues.

yeah if its running better now then before then u r on the right track
it would be sweet if u have consult...
it would help u pinpoint issue better
and yeah man
s13 w sr swaps need tlc to get them in a good place
once its there its just maintaining it....

[Nicelyphe]

yeah if its running better now then before then u r on the right track
it would be sweet if u have consult...
it would help u pinpoint issue better
and yeah man
s13 w sr swaps need tlc to get them in a good place
once its there its just maintaining it....

Haha yea, well agreed there. Once they're running correctly they're a blast to drive. Nd yes, 240's need alot of TLC

[boris13]

yea well im on my way to buy a pcv end cap put a tire valve stem in the middle and put a silicone cupler on it with worm clamps and attach it to the turbo and use a bike tire pump to pump 10 psi throught the system and hear for boost/vacuum leak thats how you make a boost leak tester right?

[Nicelyphe]

Correct as far as I know that sounds possible. Most people use a compressor instead. Also you put the cap on the end of your intercooler piping rather than on the turbo itself. ALso have to get another cap and cap the coupler that connects your intercooler pipe to your throttle body.

[boris13]

Correct as far as I know that sounds possible. Most people use a compressor instead. Also you put the cap on the end of your intercooler piping rather than on the turbo itself. ALso have to get another cap and cap the coupler that connects your intercooler pipe to your throttle body.

k ill post an update when i get it done

[boris13]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!:O

ok so i still havent made the boost leak tester still making it but i went to take off my spark plug and i come to find out that they are HKS!!!:D but the tip is black as shit i put it back on and proceed to check my oil i had changed the oil and put new full synthetic as soon as the motor was in the engine bay...

but my oil is black as shit too how could this be if ive only drivin the car twice first time being it running shitty as hell second time actually hitting boost hmm weird??

i put the dip stick back in and proceed to check my coolant for the hell of it and see that there is no coolant sitting at the top!!! weird i grabe my antifreeze and pour some more in mixed with water till it couldnt take no more

why is my oil black if i havent actually drivin the car for more than 5 minutes in total since the swap has bin put in and why is my antifreeze disappearing?? Could the white smoke its producing only after boost be it burning the coolant?? why would the coolant be burning??

[di-devol]

Do a compression test.

[89JDM240sx]

Agreed with the compression test... And the car should've been running while you put the coolant in the radiator... The spark plugs could be foul does the tip look worn?? Or they could be gapped wrong... Do another oil change to...

When the drain is open poor a quart or two of fresh oil through the motor to clean it out real good

[boris13]

if it has low compression? would that be bad? how can i do a compression test

[89JDM240sx]

Yes low compression is bad... If you do might be bad bearings or bad piston rings

[boris13]

What are signs of a cracked block or head?

[89JDM240sx]

Coolant lost, low oil pressure....

What A LOT of ppl don't know when they buy motors from Jap spots are... Since these motors sit sometimes for months at a time they lose compression so when the Jap store does a compression test on the motor and the numbers are low what they do is pour a cap full of transmission fluid into the cylinder that is low to raise the compression...

So all while you think you have a good motor but you really don't... Never call them and say I'm on my way to get this motor just show up

[boris13]

damn well can i go buy a compression tester like at autozone or orileys auto parts?

[89JDM240sx]

Yes Sir you sure can...

[boris13]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!:D

I love this forum for all the help i received THANKS ok i shit my self over thinking again :facepalm: i went to my 240 and was tripping because of the missing coolant but i turned the car on and let it idle for a good 5-6min and it was idleing ok kinda wanted to die and kinda didnt it would sputter and want to die but i would keep it alive by giving it some gas i looked under the car and took notice that i was leaking coolant

the reason i had shit my self was because i was researching about cracked blocks and what not and that if its cracked i would be loosing coolant and thats when i shit my self but my dumb ass had a hose that was leaking the coolant so i re tightend the clamp down and it wasnt leaking no more so i decided to take her out for a spin around my block again this time trying to see if it would smoke up like last time and see how it would blow off after all the re doing of the clamps vacuums and what not and also to check if it would over heat on me so i take it around the block put it under boost and now i have flutter dump :D!!!

well its still not good but its better than what it was and also i wanted to see if it would smoke up like last time but it didnt smoke up at all :) now for the issue of it not staying on im not sure if i have to tighten my throttle cable a little bit or if i could still have a vacuum leak some where any input would be wonderful all the help you guys gave me is working slowly but surely i cant thank you guys enough!!!

[Nicelyphe]

Nice to hear the progress! Is your BOV opening?

[boris13]

well while its idleing and i rev it no it only blows off while im actually driving the car so i cant tell if it is infact opening right i took it off and pushed it with my hand to se how hard it is to open and its not that hard to open but i dont think it could be a factor as to why its not idling right and blowing off right can it??

[89JDM240sx]

Did you mess with your idle screw?

[boris13]

no i havent where is it located at? should i mess with it?

[89JDM240sx]

Where does the car idle at? Its located on the intake manifold

[boris13]

I don't know the tach I have on it is still the SOHC ka tach so it doesn't read rpms I'm going to get a DOHC tach do I can see what it idles at but I'm not sure as of right now but my boost gauge reads -10 then starts dropping to -5 an some times -3 then dies after it hits -3

[Nicelyphe]

You got the BOV running off the lower left nipple again?

[89JDM240sx]

Your Vac is supposed to read -20... Is it possible for you to take a pic of your bay and post it up?

[89JDM240sx]

Also check your manifold for hairline crack and such

[Nicelyphe]

Your Vac is supposed to read -20... Is it possible for you to take a pic of your bay and post it up?


He has some up on Page two I believe it was. I also gave him pictures of mine which idles at -20, but he said when he did it the way mine are his car wouldnt even idle so he changed them back :picardfp:. Maybe IACV is bad.

[boris13]

You got the BOV running off the lower left nipple again?

No I got the BOV running on the top nipple of it and from there it runs to the top right nipple on the throttle body

I got the top left nipple running to my FPR and T'd off to my boost guage

The bottom left nipple on the throttle body is running to my waist gate

[boris13]

Your Vac is supposed to read -20... Is it possible for you to take a pic of your bay and post it up?

Yea I took some pictures and posted them up I believe on page 2 the only time it reads -20 is when I rev it it will drop to -20 and go back to -10 at idle please be advised that I'm running stock tune stock everything besides the 255 walboro fuel pump and 300zx TT fuel filter (if that's even upgrading anything at all):facepalm:

[boris13]

Also check your manifold for hairline crack and such

A crack.?!?:eek: ok I haven't checked for one but I will as soon as I get back from court AGAIN:rant2:

[Nicelyphe]

Yea I took some pictures and posted them up I believe on page 2 the only time it reads -20 is when I rev it it will drop to -20 and go back to -10 at idle please be advised that I'm running stock tune stock everything besides the 255 walboro fuel pump and 300zx TT fuel filter (if that's even upgrading anything at all):facepalm:


Yea I'm running same setup, walbro, z32 filter, fmic, and exhaust, stock everything else. You try spraying carb cleaner/starting fluid around vacuum hoses in search for a vacuum leak?

[boris13]

Yea I'm running same setup, walbro, z32 filter, fmic, and exhaust, stock everything else. You try spraying carb cleaner/starting fluid around vacuum hoses in search for a vacuum leak?

Hmmm no I havent yet what would be the response of it if I spray it with carb cleaner/starting fluid.?

[Nicelyphe]

Idle change, and depending, you can usually see it suck it in.

[89JDM240sx]

That line going into the manifold heat shield is that a O2 sensor?? The wrong one would cause the car to break up

[boris13]

That line going into the manifold heat shield is that a O2 sensor?? The wrong one would cause the car to break up

No I don't think it's the O2 sensor because I believe it's behind the turbo I'll take a picture and post it it's connected across the valve I believe it has a white wire a red and black one I'm not sure I'll post a pic I'm not entirely sure about that tho

[boris13]

Ok I chekes the ecu for codes and it gave me code 12 when I messed with the maf

[Nicelyphe]

Get to try your buddys SR MAF?

[boris13]

K I'll try to see if he can lend it to me today if not imma have to wait till tomorrow

[Nicelyphe]

What ECU # are you running on that?

[boris13]

I have a #62 on it right now I also have a #63 sitting on the passenger side too

[boris13]

UPDATE!!!!!:O

so i went my local orileys and i bought some starting fluid!!! i sprayed all the cuplings and vacuums hoses and waited to hear for any idle change but i didnt hear anything so i spray the air filter and the idle kicks up and she idles beautiful and the boost gauge was reasing -20!!! i waited to see how long it would take to start dieing but it didnt.. so i take it around the block and i open her up she still flutters and acts like if she wants to stall out and die so i take it home and reverse it on to my drive way but then she stoped acting like she wanted to die..

i take her for another spin around the block and i can feel her hesitating and i would give it gas but i wouldnt respond for a second and the she started responding as if fuel wasnt getting through to her?? im not 100% sure on that but thats what it seemed like i put her on the drive way and she wanted to die i gave it a little gas and it started idleing fine i took a video on it on my drive way when i finished driving it after she was acting up but she wouldnt want to die or act up infront of the camera (liddo bitch)!!!:facepalm:

any way here it is.. S13 240sx SR20DET - YouTube (http://youtu.be/oMeluOWWhI4)

[di-devol]

Have you checked the timing? Take a picture of the CAS.

[boris13]

Have you checked the timing? Take a picture of the CAS.

No i havent checked the timing on it I have no idea how to and the CAS?? like you want me to take it off and take a picture or the inside?:confused:

[89JDM240sx]

That's the only other thing I could think of is timing and try switching out the plugs

[boris13]

mk ill try tomorrow im going to have an sr20 friend come over so i can try his MAF and if that doesnt help at all im going to take my CAS off and change the spark plugs along with the oil and sea foam the bitch and ill be damned if she still gives me some shit!!!

[89JDM240sx]

mk ill try tomorrow im going to have an sr20 friend come over so i can try his MAF and if that doesnt help at all im going to take my CAS off and change the spark plugs along with the oil and sea foam the bitch and ill be damned if she still gives me some shit!!!

Lol... Keep hope alive my brother!

[Nicelyphe]

Sounds good from the video, also keep in mind your BOV is NOT recirculated, that will cause idle to drop to hell and surge right after hitting boost! Hence why once you bring it back up with gas it idles decently fine but breaks up after you boost again! But I'd go with trying the SR MAF and recirc that BOV. I have heard KA MAF will work fine as well though.

[boris13]

Lol... Keep hope alive my brother!

lol ill try :rl: some times i just wanna take a hammer to the valve cover!!

[boris13]

Sounds good from the video, also keep in mind your BOV is NOT recirculated, that will cause idle to drop to hell and surge right after hitting boost! Hence why once you bring it back up with gas it idles decently fine but breaks up after you boost again! But I'd go with trying the SR MAF and recirc that BOV. I have heard KA MAF will work fine as well though.

Yea thats what ive heard too thats why i just dont get it!!!:mad: but ill try al that stuff if not ill just recirculate the BOV and see if it helps any but idk why she was acting normal in the video i had sprayed the air filter and BOOM no problems but i bet you in the morning if i go to start her she wont keep the idle..:picardfp:

[Nicelyphe]

lol ill try :rl: some times i just wanna take a hammer to the valve cover!!


Haha we all feel this way at some point.

[di-devol]

You don't need to take the cas off lol, it was just a way to see how the timing is. Check with gun, could be your hesitation issue.

[cotbu]

First of all, I'm going to say your idle is to high. prob 1100 and second don't worry so much about the vacuum at idle and trying to pull 20inhg.
You're going to need to have some tools, multimeter, timing light metric socket set and extension. flathead/phillips screwdrivers etc.
Also I'm going to need detailed shots of the vacuum system and all your connection or a slow walk through video. also make, model and any custom rigging you have done to the car for anything. I'll wait for a response for about 2hour after that GL.

[boris13]

First of all, I'm going to say your idle is to high. prob 1100 and second don't worry so much about the vacuum at idle and trying to pull 20inhg.
You're going to need to have some tools, multimeter, timing light metric socket set and extension. flathead/phillips screwdrivers etc.
Also I'm going to need detailed shots of the vacuum system and all your connection or a slow walk through video. also make, model and any custom rigging you have done to the car for anything. I'll wait for a response for about 2hour after that GL.

Ok the only custom rigging I've done to the car was the walboro fuel pump and I had plugged up seprate connectors to the positive and negative on separate wires and spliced them soderd the wires at the ends so it dont come un loose and it's bin working fine ever since my vacuums I can re take pictures of every single vacuum hose I have from start to finish if you want and as for all the connections I can take a video of that as well or pictures

[JDMRIDDAZ]

first off
ur fpr is not to be t;d for any reason
if u have no vac leaks...ur good
the larger VAC line on TB put a t on that and put bov and boost gauge
the vac port on turbo goes to wastegate...
once thats done locate idle screw it facing up between 3-4 runner on intake mani
remove screw spray carb cleaner inside and down the hose on intercooler piping next to TB...
test again
if still no idle check voltage to idle control selinoid...
if it has no voltage u have no idle period...

[Nicelyphe]

I heard it was OK to T FPR for a boost gauge at the most..Could that cause any issues?

[boris13]

I heard it was OK to T FPR for a boost gauge at the most..Could that cause any issues?

Yea I routed my vacuums and followed the sr20det swap guide from... Lol I forget but I did wire everything following the fsport guide and the swap I forgot the website but it said T the fpr with a boost gauge and run it to the top left nipple on the throttle body the top right nipple goes to the boost gauge and the bottom left nipple is capped off or u can use it for the waist gate being as I don't have a boost controller or solenoid so I run it to the bottom left nipple on the throttle body

As for the nipple on the turbo that's capped off wen I run the waist gate to it it won't idle but now like I said before it will crank over and idle high for 6-8secs then drop dwn n die :/ unless I give it gas or spray the air intake filter with starter fluid could it be my air filter being so thick that it can't suck up enough air??

My friend couldn't get the sr20 Maf so imma buy one tomorrow but I won't get it till 3-5 days later-_-

Tomorrow I'm going to check my wiring AGAIN:bash: I keep searching and read that my Maf wires if my white signal wire isn't shielded the other wires can be causing an interference and be giving wrong signals to the Maf.? Is this true.?

I'm also going to be following the wires all the way through the wiring harness to look for a break? I'm pretty sure I'm just waisting my time with it now messing with things that are most likely not the problem..

Also the idle screw I haven't touched it I'm scared I might mess something up should I even mess with it to see if I get a steady idle going.? I'm all out of ideas now.. One again thanks for helping me out with this head ache I hope I don't tire y'all and stop helpin out don't mean to bother but god damn this car to hell.!!!

[boris13]

Bad MAF? Vacuum leak? - YouTube (http://youtu.be/-q6t2DyYrUY)

heres another video im about to take the fuel filter off light it and try n start the car see if that fixes it..

[Nicelyphe]

Anymore updates?

[boris13]

Na dude I bought a sr20 Maf from this guy on here but he still hasn't sent out the damn package yet -_- I'm going to see if he sent it already if not so I can get a refund and get it from some one else...

I'm sure its the MAF because now that I think about it before I did the swap my car got flooded with water from a random heavy rain (when I had the ka) and I got water every god damned were from the fuel to my air filter so I'm pretty sure water got into the Maf but the wired thing is wen I fixed everything the Maf still worked on my KA so idk what else it could be

I sea foamed it to clean out all the bad shit in it and now the car will start up and die only wen cold wen she warms up she idles but very poorly

Also when I start the car with the MAF disconnected it starts up and idles fine and won't shut off so if I had a vacuum leak wouldn't it shut off regardless.?? But as soon as I plug in the MAF idle starts dropping and she dies so I can't imagine what else it could be I'll post an update soon as I get the Maf from that damn dumb ass that's taking FOREVER.!!!:/

[ultimateirving]

it does sound maf related man, sucks you're having so much trouble. also as far as spraying the carb cleaner in the filter the response you got is average for any vehicle if sprayed into the intake.

good luck!

[boris13]

QUESTION.?!?! Would a SOHC FPR cause it to run funny.?? I was just thinking because the one that came with my sr was a little bent so I swapped out the fprs

[boris13]

I already tryed the z32 Maf and it wouldn't even want to start

[boris13]

Up-to-the-mothafucken-DATE.!!!

So I got the sr20 Maf put it in and it ran a little better but will still drop down and die unless I let it warm up and then it will keep idle and not die but the idle is still shitty and the boost guage goes up an dwn under -10 any input would be beautiful.!!

[Nicelyphe]

boost/vac leak? IDK if that KA FPR is a good idea either.

[boris13]

K I replaced the FPR with the sr20 one and I sprayed almost every vacuum hose with starting fluid and didn't notice any change I'll do a vac check and see what happens

[Nicelyphe]

Try a boost pressure check?

[boris13]

Nicelyphe dude I wanna thank u for helpin me out I swapped the #62 ecu with the #63 ecu I got from some dude on here and the idle is a lot better but it still fluctuates bouncing around -10 to -18 would that vacuum from the waist gate to the bottom nipple on the throttle body cause that.? I drove it around the block with the #63 ecu it felt normal didn't die on me or hesitate at all but it still worrys me that it bounces from -10 to -18 when I boost the vac will go down to -20 and won't want to die afterwards

Every day that I work on it it gets better and better I also did a vacuum leak test and sprayed all the hoses and cuplings with soapy water but didn't see any bubbles anywhere and I also sprayed the iacv hose next to the throttle body with carb cleaner and it seems to have gotten better idle but I would like to get it to idle perfect just wondering what else I have to do in order to get it to idle perfect any way thanks a bunch dude!!

[Nicelyphe]

Haha not a problem man, everyone here def deserves credit on their opinions as-well. Glad to hear things are coming up slowly but surely. I'd try not using the bottom nipple (Plugging it) and run your wastegate off the hotpipe itself. You can get a item like that that you can drill a hole into the intercooler coupler above the turbo and put it in, or tap a 1/8 fitting with some teflon tape into the pipe, heres some links to check out.


A fitting installed onto hotpipe (Same pipe you BOV is on). Can get a fitting from any hardware store.
240sx tap into hot pipe image by hpballer76 on Photobucket (http://media.photobucket.com/image/240sx%20tap%20into%20hot%20pipe/hpballer76/240sx%2520build%2520log/219.jpg)

[boris13]

Yea as well as everyone else THANKS ALOT I LOVE THIS FOURM but do you think that since its not connected to the hot pipe it would cause idle issues.?

[boris13]

Update.!!! Ok so I went out today and got new spark plugs and went to go get a nipple so I can hook the waist gate to the hot pipe I put the new spark plugs in and still no difference there gapped at .028 but the damn car won't keep idle now for sure I'm out of ideas I've tryed everything I could and still won't idle

[A31CEFIRO]

I had a simular problem for a long time. I thought it was a iac problem/maf vaccume leak etc.... I drove the car for awhile even took it to the track. One day i blew the turbo. then when i was replacing the turbo i found a crack on my intercooler piping rubber elbow. one of the 90 degree hard rubber ones. Changed that and all my idle problems went away.

[boris13]

I had a simular problem for a long time. I thought it was a iac problem/maf vaccume leak etc.... I drove the car for awhile even took it to the track. One day i blew the turbo. then when i was replacing the turbo i found a crack on my intercooler piping rubber elbow. one of the 90 degree hard rubber ones. Changed that and all my idle problems went away.

Damn that sucks yea I wish my problem was that easy I've checked and triple checked all my rubber cuplings and vacuum hoses and sprayed them all with starting fluid to see for any vac leaks or boost leaks still nothing also replaced the Maf spark plugs the front mount inter cooler is brand new along with all the piping and rubber I have a walboro 255 fuel pump and 300zx fuel filter im going to check the cas and timing next maby the wiring harness?

[Nicelyphe]

Maybe TPS isnt getting a good connection, or bad.

[Nicelyphe]

Weird but it crossed my mind. Is your brake booster hose connected?

[boris13]

Weird but it crossed my mind. Is your brake booster hose connected?

Yea dude it's connected -_- if the cas is off would it cause idle issues?

[Nicelyphe]

Yea dude it's connected -_- if the cas is off would it cause idle issues?


To an extent, maybe sluggish but the cas controls ignition timing, and your car starts and runs, just wont stay idled. Maybe IACV?

[boris13]

To an extent, maybe sluggish but the cas controls ignition timing, and your car starts and runs, just wont stay idled. Maybe IACV?

That's what I was thinking sprayed carb cleaner in the hose next to the throttle body and the screw on top as well if I try to take off the screw on top while the car is running it will try to die as I'm trying to take it off so would that indicate that it is working.? :confused:

[boris13]

I took it to the shop guys they said it had a whole bunch of small shit that just needed some TLC he said that the throttle cable was on too tight and it was flooding the engine and the TPS needed to be adjusted hence it running too rich and waiting so much gas and running like shit as well I'll let you guys know what else he found being as most of the threads I read no one posted the final solution

[Nicelyphe]

Sounds good let us know. WHat kind of shop did you bring it too? Just a basic automotive place?

[cotbu]

I thought this was fixed! I wanna know the cost.

[boris13]

Sounds good let us know. WHat kind of shop did you bring it too? Just a basic automotive place?

No I took it to a guy that works on imports only he has done plenty of sr20 swaps of all kinds Blk/red tops s13/14s so I trust him he explained so much to me in 5 minutes I had no idea that all those little flaws would cause the car to run like shit like how my throttle cable was on too tight causing the car to stall or cut off completely after boost or while boosting because it's running extremely rich and the engine was being flooded and the smell of gas was so strong so that was one of my meany little problems I had I'm not sure if it will be done today hopefully :D

[boris13]

I thought this was fixed! I wanna know the cost.

Na dude I wish but I payed 1400 for the motor wiring harness and ecu I had to get the turbo FMIC + BOV and radiator along with the tranny and boost guage so I spent about 2200 for everything and he's charging me 300 too fix all the little details such as fix my fucked up wiring harness test all the sensors see if they're in working and good condition and check for vacuum leaks and adjust the TPS and throttle cable I'll keep you guys updated wen he calls and I know what was exactly wrong with it

[boris13]

So I scooped up my 240 from that shop they wanted to charge me 800 to fix a wiring harness

[Nicelyphe]

Thats crazy, probably better grabbing a used one off here for like $100-$200

[boris13]

Yea that's what I said but I'm still unsure of what the problem is. -_-

[boris13]

well i think that the 63 ecu is bad because when i put the 62 ecu she will idle but shes not pulling -20 only -10 or -15 then i pull codes form the ecu and it gives me codes 11 12 13 34 so it might be a fucked wiring harness but at least i can drive it any ideas y it would give me 4 codes?? the turbo doesnt flutter or anything like that im am completely stumped and have no more ideas as to what i can do i wish it would just finally start working -____- i might just sell the pice of shit im tired of messing with it

[JDMRIDDAZ]

its easy to fix this with a multimeter and a fsm
multimeter is a dub at sears
fsm is free to down load on net
check all those sensors against specs in fsm
also u need to check all wires where engine harness connects to chassis harness....
wire colors r free from frsport...
as far as a janky harness cut it open and tape it up....or solder broken wires and tape it up..use 3m temflex blk tape
most of the time is lack of voltage to engine harness=ecu..sensors...

[boris13]

its easy to fix this with a multimeter and a fsm
multimeter is a dub at sears
fsm is free to down load on net
check all those sensors against specs in fsm
also u need to check all wires where engine harness connects to chassis harness....
wire colors r free from frsport...
as far as a janky harness cut it open and tape it up....or solder broken wires and tape it up..use 3m temflex blk tape
most of the time is lack of voltage to engine harness=ecu..sensors...

Dude thanks for the input i got a multimeter and the fsm still looking for the correct voltage for everything i also took the valve cover off n saw this

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/787boricua787/IMG_0450.jpg

not sure if thats correct tho i read on the fsm that the 2 black dots on the cams are supposed to line up with the silver links on the chain :bite: if so how would i get to fix the chain to line up with the dots on the cams. i already tryed rotating the crank by hand and it wont line up with the dots..

[cbcm2435]

its in the fsm too, you are going to have to pull the chain off and reset the timing, i would check and make sure the chain is lined up right on the crank also.

[boris13]

its in the fsm too, you are going to have to pull the chain off and reset the timing, i would check and make sure the chain is lined up right on the crank also.

Would i have to pull the motor out and re set the chain would that even cause the car to run like shit and give me that many codes?? or are the codes its throwing out a separate problem

[di-devol]

Oi, keep rotating the crank, it will line up eventually. I doubt your timing could be off that much and still run.

Have you checked the timing with a timing light yet?

[cotbu]

Im on my phone now, but you need to have an understanding for this shyt first.
Are you at tdc in that picture, you have many other ways to determine tdc and if your chain is on correctly. Count the links, cam lobes out yada yada sex.
I would advise you to get senior member help, to help verify mechanical timing, before you, yourself attempt that on your own! Im on my way to the lab, i'll try to help you.

Sent from my Highly Tuned Vibrant!

[boris13]

Thanks for all the help but no I haven't checked it with a timing light yet and I had set the crank at the second mark to the left side and the dots didn't line up on the silver links on the chain so idk if that's on right I looked through the fsm and it looks like you have to go through hell to fix it and well I don't even think I have the right tools to fix it with

But still would bad timing cause the coolant temp sensor the cas and the Maf and knock sensor to show up on the ecu.? The auto ecu wouldn't show any codes other than the 55

[cotbu]

The links lining up with the dots are for installation, but If you rotate the crank enough and or are lucky they will all line up again at TDC eventually???!! I know how to set TDC so I skip some of this stuff, but put a dowel, long screw driver or whatever in the number 1 spark plug hole, watch the screw driver when the TDC mark come up the screw driver will stop moving up, TDC. Most of the time we work from compression stroke, but master TDC first and you'll be able to hear when it's compression stroke.

I've seen your harness, and I would definitely have that repaired, before I switch ecu's and look for other issues. just saying
Have any friends with sr's, do a harness swap or lay your harness on top of theirs, rule out the harness and ecu whatever way is the cheapest. Feel me.

[boris13]

Yea cuz it starts up right away and it doesn't struggle to start up or it doesn't sound like it has any kind of problem starting up but here's the weird thing I had taken off the ecu and had put it back on the wiring harness thinking maybe the plug isn't sitting right and (this happen yesterday) it had only givin me one code wen I checked for codes soon as I reinstalled it and that code was the CTS so I go and check for voltage at the sensor plug and I'm getting vOltage I'm thinking my wiring harness could be so messed up that it isn't giving off the right voltage

When I got it the guy I bought the whole swap from told me the guy before me had hooked up a piggyback.? Or something like that to the ecu so I had to rewire all the fucked up wiring at the harness plug that connects to the back of the ecu I re did it using a ecu pinout and made sure every wire was correct -_-

Ok here's what I wanna know wen I got the swap my FPR was a little bent I unbent it but it still looks a little fucked up but i had replaced it with the SOHC FPR but still no diffrence I also have no exhaust hooked up because I wanted to get the swap up and running before I buy a exhaust system a guy told me some of ur idling problem is because there is no back pressure.? I'm not entirely sure if that is correct if so I will buy one ASAP but I don't think that would cause the car to idle at -10in (boost gauge) I do have the down pipe connected to a cat but that's it after that nothing else I'm about to buy an exhaust tho..

[Nicelyphe]

Just a little input from my understanding, an ECU wont just connect and give you a code. I believe they refresh they're codes at a certain point. So the 4 codes that you got, could have been from previously, but I'd erase the codes, run the car a bit, then recheck for codes.

[boris13]

Just a little input from my understanding, an ECU wont just connect and give you a code. I believe they refresh they're codes at a certain point. So the 4 codes that you got, could have been from previously, but I'd erase the codes, run the car a bit, then recheck for codes.

Hmmm ok well i read that the way to erase the codes and refresh the ecu is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes.?? its bin disconnected for 2 days now :confused: im about too start the car run it for a little and recheck for codes to see what happens also just for info when i go and disconnect the maf the car idles so perfect as if nothing is wrong with it at all just idles so smooth and beautiful but wen i go to rev it it wont go passed 2500rpms because its in safe mode.? but wen i go to connect it again the idle drops picks up and starts to idle rough im going to replace the IACV hose and ive triple checked for popped off cuplers and re tightend them real good so thats good and well im about to see what happens :-/

[boris13]

well i took out the wiring harness and tryed to find a short or something with in the wiring fucking with the sensors but nothing im at my end with this pice of shit sr20 i move all the wires to see if i get a better response and nothing i tryed everything but still nothing can fix this son of a bitch

[waste_of_space]

If your car is running good with your MAF unplugged, I'd say that's the culprit.
Your car should, for the most part, die when you unplug the MAF.
Swap in a good known MAF, and then come back and tell us how it's running.

[boris13]

If your car is running good with your MAF unplugged, I'd say that's the culprit.
Your car should, for the most part, die when you unplug the MAF.
Swap in a good known MAF, and then come back and tell us how it's running.

k well i checked the voltage and i got 11.95 on the black and white wire i got 0 at the ground or like a .1-2 and i got 0.75 at the signal wire i messed with the BOV and it idled alot better with the BOV slightly cracked i changed the MAF with the SOHC KA MAF that was working on my KA before i took it out and i ordered a SR20DET red top MAF witch is in there now and it still has the same idle as before i swapped MAFS now when i give it gas it starts smoking up gray and sounds like a subaru..:bite:

[boris13]

UPDATE.!!!!!!

So i took out the sparkplugs and regapped them to 35 and she is running alot and i mean A LOT BETTER.!!!! boost gauge is reading at -13 or -15 at idle and thats with no exhaust hooked up im about to but the dump pipe down pipe and full exhaust and install it and see how much better she will do hopefully that clears everything i wanna thank everyone for their input and help getting this beast alive ive learned so much about an sr20 because of this fourm i love it.!!!

seriously thanks tho

[idc101]

so is she running good now?

[samss]

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