Bare minimum KA-T parts

[Prophet513]

Hi I'm looking to know the main/required parts I will need for a really mild ka24det setup.

I'd be happy with 180-200rwph, so that common list from ka-t.org is what got me to where I am now.

I know I will need:
turbo manifold
t25/28
bov (i have an offer on an s15 bov)
intercooler/piping (size?)
oil lines (details?)
fuel injectors (sr 370cc ?)
fuel pump (walbro 255)
boost guage (would probably add another like oil temp because I love the dual pillar pod look)

What things am I safe to go cheap with?
I feel like guages could be done cheap.
I've honestly heard nothing but GOOD things about ebay turbo parts from first hand users, all the nay sayers generally have no experience with them. One thing here I heard works well for cheap turbo setups is an intercooler..

Sorry in advance for all the people who tell me to search. I've been researching a few days now and the info seems so spread out, especially for a first time turbo project.

Thanks

[Edwin562]

Do it right the first time. take your time and save up for decent parts. it will be worth the while in the long run.

[Flicktitty]

Ever heard of KA-T.org or the search button?

You shuold do a boost,oil pressure and a water temp gauge.
intercooler piping 2.5" is good and has a ton of "room" to grow.
Oil lines should be found on various site that sponsor ziliva.

[niteridaz503]

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/426968-cheap-ka-t-set-up-200-00-other-items-well.html

BOOM!

[Prophet513]

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/426968-cheap-ka-t-set-up-200-00-other-items-well.html

BOOM!

wheres the intercooler, bov... the oil line.... fuel injectors, etc...?

[Edwin562]

this is all you need. Took me 10 seconds on google.

www.ka-t.org :: View topic - Sticky: DOHC Turbo For Dummies (http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6263)

[Prophet513]

Ever heard of KA-T.org or the search button?

You shuold do a boost,oil pressure and a water temp gauge.
intercooler piping 2.5" is good and has a ton of "room" to grow.
Oil lines should be found on various site that sponsor ziliva.

oops yeah meant oil pressure ha not oil temp..

yeah I want to if I can find a 3 guage pillar pod for an s13.. I'd rather not have guages inside by the radio or just have 1 single one chillin by itself

[Prophet513]

Okay are people reading my post?

I already mentioned the search issue and I already said I visited that site but it isn't quite complete. As you see for the mild setup it doesn't recommend an intercooler, nor does it give sizes.

[J90lude]

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/Severe_photo/funny-gifs-infinite-drink.gif

[kosmo91se]

Tell me what you mean by "you people."
I demand answers at once

[silver350z05rb]

:picardfp:

[Prophet513]

Tell me what you mean by "you people."
I demand answers at once

Ctl+f, you're the only one who's said "you people."

Like not to mention a downpipe, and an exhaust..?

Or a new intake.. I know there are just parts that are missing from my list, not sure what they all are...

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

1.manifold
2.t28
3.Fmic
4.370cc injectors
5.walbro pump
6.AEM wideband
7.Oil pressure gauge
8.boost gauge
9.down pipe
10.z32 maf
11.tune
Thats super basic ka turbo setup, well atleast in my eyes.

[dato]

Supercharger and done

[KA240SX808]

1. Intercooler & Piping
- Be it a Stock SR SMIC Set-up or a FMIC
2. Intake to the Turbo
- Again Stock or Aftermarket not matter
- The Stock MAF can take up to 270whp AFAIK and a T28 @ 10psi only makes ~230whp on a KA so I've seen.
3. T25/28 Turbo
4. Turbo Manifold
5. Turbine Elbow
- Stock or AM
6. Downpipe
- Stock SR or S14 KA Downpipe will work
- S13's use a 2-1 Downppe so obviously it won't fit
7. Oil & Coolant Lines
- Will need either a Oil Press. Sensor Adapter or Spin on Oil Filter Adapter for the Oil Feed
- Includes the Drain Bung for the Oil Pan
- Coolant can be taken from the TB Circuit
8. Injectors
- Stock SR S13/14 = 370cc's
- S15 -444 (480)cc's
- MAny other drop-in options
9. Fuel Pump
- OEM Fuel Pumps flow 160lph last time I checked
- But your factory worn pump isn't up for the task. Specially since it'll be seeing 50+psi under boost instead of the 43.5 its set to.
- But 255's are too cheap not to upgrade to
10. ECU Tune

A Wideband or Boost Gauge isn't required as your ROM Tune is set unless you use something like Nistune where you can change it. If not your AFR's are set along with your Boost off the WG. So you shouldn't be going all out until you get it on the Dyno and make sure your AFR's and Knock and everything else is in check. If you have Nistune you should be able to read the Oil psi off the Factory Sensor so you don't really need that Gauge as you won't even pay attention to it unless you buy a decent one that has a low warning/alert/alarm. Even if you have a Nistune, you don't need to be reading your AFR's or Boost all the time. Set your tune and go play. Stock SR's don't come with AFR Gauges or Boost Gauges (Minus the select few models) nor do most ppl install them during a SR Swap.

One thing you may/should look into if your gonna run it hard for long periods of time is some cooling upgrades. A "Budget" type of set-up I can see is something like a Stock/OEM Type Radiator for an Auto. I say Auto because they have a built in Trans Cooler Circuit you can use for an Oil cooler if you used the Spin on Oil Filter Adapter as your Feed. Pair that with some Altima Dual's and it should be pretty stout for a Stock/Basic/Low-Boost KA. Also you can get Cheap "Higher" pressure Radiator Caps from Napa to help cooling also. Stock is suppose to be ~12lbs. Nismo one is 18lbs. I've seen 14 & 16lbs caps from Napa so a $12 Cap is much cheaper than the $35 Nismo one.


No expert here but just my insight.

[jr_ss]

Going turbo is never a "cheap" task. Spend the time and money right the first time. Dood above me has a pretty good layout for you. Cheap, fast, reliable, choose two...

[KA240SX808]

Also you'll want to look at a clutch or expect to fry your stock one if it isn't already...

[Chaluska]

Going turbo is not something you should cheap out on..

the turbo hardware (on a T25 setup) will be just under $800 ... lines, turbo, manifold, downpipe, intercooler...

then your TUNE, MAF, injectors, Fuel pump can range from $400-$1000, depending on the size of injectors, and the tune/maf you go with.

then if you want gauges, those can range from shitty to awesome (about $30 a piece, to $400 a piece) and add another couple bucks for a gauge pod.

you will need to get another oil pan and get it welded for the return, OR spend the time to take yours off and then get a return welded in. if you are extremely gutsy, you can drill a 5/8 hole, and use a threaded pipe>nipple adapter from lowes/home depot, and jb weld the inside, and outside of the pan, i did it on my first KA-T with no problems..

that will get your car turbo'd and running...

Now how will you stop? do you have any sort of upgraded brakes? the 240sx had horrible brakes from the get go, and shouldnt have even rolled off the assembly line with them.

how good is your suspension, to handle all the extra torque? and im not talking about shitty coil overs with all stock everythign else.. there are bushings everywhere, and if you want your car to stay on the road, you better get it stiffened back up.

is your engine in tip top shape? brand new ignition coil, is it getting battery voltage? have you replaced the cap/rotor/plugs/plug wires? how are all the intake gaskets, and head gasket? if it has 150,000 miles + you will definitely want to consider getting a head job done, so that the valves will be seating nice and everything will be tightly sealed (reaplace valve guides and valve seals, and get a 3-angle job) whats your engines compression looking like? are all the cylinders within 5% of each other? (IE 131/140/135/136) and not obscure (121/200/8/14)

can you current clutch handle the extra stress of having all of that extra torque, a stock clutch or OE equivalent will burn away within a matter of months, and will start slipping after a few weeks under any sort of boost.

[Prophet513]

These are the answers I'm looking for. Thank you guys..

And yes I know about brakes, although you're the first person to say that they suck haha. I plan on going for j30 brakes sometime soon and getting wider rear tires by the time the turbo is all in, as well as a good set of springs/shocks.

I trust my engine enough to handle everything.. It's never had the smallest problem and I got my 240 from a Nissan technician.

I did not consider a clutch though. I'm going to have to look into that a little more.

But yeah, this is the stuff I was looking to know so I can go over everything before I start buying parts and tearing sh** up and what not.

[Prophet513]

Also.. when it comes to bare minimum... are the oil pan modifications 100% necessary?

I don't usually like the idea of custom fabrication ha

[Edwin562]

Also.. when it comes to bare minimum... are the oil pan modifications 100% necessary?

I don't usually like the idea of custom fabrication ha
Yes... how the oil return back in ?

[mikerbike]

Here's what I paid for my BASIC KA-T setup
S14 T28 w/compressor inlet & outlet elbows - $200
S13 SR inlet pipe - $10
Ebay Manifold - $99
Unknown 3" elbow - $30
Unknown 3" downpipe - $40
Small front mount intercooler - $50
charge piping - $25 (this is a tough one because I made it out of scraps I had.)
Ebay BOV - $free, but maybe $65 from Ebay with flange
PLMS Developments daughterboard - $75
Sr 370cc injectors - $50
Nitrous brand boost gauge - $~20
Walbro 255lph fuel pump - $99 (but I already had it)
oil feed line - $45
oil filter sandwich plate - $36

$844

My tune is for S13 T25, SR 370s and stock MAF from HybridKA (I hear they're back, but with a different name.) My friend paid $120 (IIRC) for the eprom burner.

My oil pan already had a barb welded on for the oil drian line, as this engine was turbocharged a few years ago.

[Edwin562]

Here's what I paid for my BASIC KA-T setup
S14 T28 w/compressor inlet & outlet elbows - $200
S13 SR inlet pipe - $10
Ebay Manifold - $99
Unknown 3" elbow - $30
Unknown 3" downpipe - $40
Small front mount intercooler - $50
charge piping - $25 (this is a tough one because I made it out of scraps I had.)
Ebay BOV - $free, but maybe $65 from Ebay with flange
PLMS Developments daughterboard - $75
Sr 370cc injectors - $50
Nitrous brand boost gauge - $~20
Walbro 255lph fuel pump - $99 (but I already had it)
oil feed line - $45
oil filter sandwich plate - $36

$844

My tune is for S13 T25, SR 370s and stock MAF from HybridKA (I hear they're back, but with a different name.) My friend paid $120 (IIRC) for the eprom burner.

My oil pan already had a barb welded on for the oil drian line, as this engine was turbocharged a few years ago.


how reliable was this set up? got any dyno sheets?

[mikerbike]

I don't usually like the idea of custom fabrication ha
Oh that's scary. Are you sure old cars are a good hobby for you?

[mikerbike]

how reliable was this set up? got any dyno sheets?

I've used the engine for daily driving and some drifting for the last 3 years and I turbo'd it mid-August. I took it to a drift event 4 hours away from my home exactly 1 week after I put the turbo on.

I've been daily driving it since then, and I've take it to two drift events. The first drift event, it burned up a used Felpro manifold gasket. The second event, it burned up a manifold-turbo gasket.

I've never dyno'd it. But, at 7psi it's pretty comparable to my [email protected] power wise. It just makes all the power about 1000rpm sooner, and fades off about 1000rpm sooner.

[Prophet513]

Here's what I paid for my BASIC KA-T setup
S14 T28 w/compressor inlet & outlet elbows - $200
S13 SR inlet pipe - $10
Ebay Manifold - $99
Unknown 3" elbow - $30
Unknown 3" downpipe - $40
Small front mount intercooler - $50
charge piping - $25 (this is a tough one because I made it out of scraps I had.)
Ebay BOV - $free, but maybe $65 from Ebay with flange
PLMS Developments daughterboard - $75
Sr 370cc injectors - $50
Nitrous brand boost gauge - $~20
Walbro 255lph fuel pump - $99 (but I already had it)
oil feed line - $45
oil filter sandwich plate - $36

$844

My tune is for S13 T25, SR 370s and stock MAF from HybridKA (I hear they're back, but with a different name.) My friend paid $120 (IIRC) for the eprom burner.

My oil pan already had a barb welded on for the oil drian line, as this engine was turbocharged a few years ago.

this is a great list.
which of these parts can you say did the job and which of these can be done with ebay parts?

I guess I really wouldn't mind a small front mount intercooler anyway.

also, what are the other mods you've done like clutch, suspension and brakes etc.

Not trying to diss anybody but I feel like some people are over looking some things

[sidewayz240]

I hate the words "Bare minimum" when used together. Do it right, or dont fucking do it at all. I'm amazed you've been able to get spoon fed as much as you have.

[Prophet513]

I hate the words "Bare minimum" when used together. Do it right, or dont fucking do it at all. I'm amazed you've been able to get spoon fed as much as you have.

It is just so unfortunate that you feel that way :'(


but I'm trying to do my resarch before hand so I can go in with a solid build plan. this shit has been done before and I'm just trying to gather the information from what otherrs have done so that I can get what I want from my car without spending too much money on bs and trial and error. I'm not made of money.

[mikerbike]

this is a great list.
which of these parts can you say did the job and which of these can be done with ebay parts?

I guess I really wouldn't mind a small front mount intercooler anyway.

also, what are the other mods you've done like clutch, suspension and brakes etc.

Not trying to diss anybody but I feel like some people are over looking some things

I'm not really scared of the manifold, dump pipe, downpipe or intercooler stuff being generic stuff.

I'd definitely not use a generic turbo. I've never used one, but I've seen two of them last less than a half hour running, and one last less than 4 hours driving. I've never actually seen one last longer than that.

I use the car for drifting mostly. It has pretty basic mods. Coilovers, TC rods, RUCAs & Toe rods. It has an RPS clutch. I think it's a stage 3. It's a street style disk but has a pretty stuff pressure plate. No brake upgrades. I did 2 track days when the engine was NA and barely used the brakes. I plan to try again this year if the car doesn't sell.

[s14canyoncity]

Supercharger and done

you make it sound so easy. its easy to get the parts but almost 3x the cost of going KA-T

I've always like this set up. http://zilvia.net/f/chat/382086-sleeper-ka-t-photos-post-them-up.html
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/222187_2019262647236_1413997181_32348494_8185343_n .jpg

T25
SR manifold with KA flange
SR elbow
Moded DP (for right clearance)
N62 MAF
SR sidemount
SR injectors 370cc
SR intake box
Walboro pump
3in exhaust
Oil lines ( you can get it from any sponsor on this site or ebay)
Oil pan tap
ECU tuned for the components

[Prophet513]

I wonder if my exhaust now will cut it...

its a pacesetter catback and I really don't want a loud obnoxious exhaust, the current one sounds perfect.

anybody have any clutch recommendations?

And as far as my transmission goes will I be okay? I haven't seen 1 single thing regarding transmissions in any ka-t research but I don't wanna be dropping gears and driving hard and lose something some day without any notice ha

[RedSiBaron]

good thread, glad to see people not jumping down this guys throat.

hey Prophet, where abouts in Cincy are you?

that pacesetter prolly wont cut it, you're going to want a 3" exhaust from what i understand, but iirc apexi and megan racing both make some really mellow toned down 3" exhausts that look stockish

as for hte trans, unless you're KA trans is in awesome shape, dont expect it to last long, ka trans are usually in pretty poor condition at this point, ive had bad luck finding a decent one. one of hte main reasons im thinking SR over ka-t is because finding a good trans here in ohio has so far proven difficult. or i've been very unlucky.

as for the clutch, i bought my car with an exedy stage 3 sprung clutch already installed with the lightened flywheel. even on a stock single cam and daily driving, I actually love it. I've also heard really good things about the spec clutches for KAs and SRs.

[GroundPerformance]

Below is my bare minimum KA-T parts without cutting corners and have a nice daily KA-T with good enough power and some occasional track days.

Engine;
- Fully stock Healthy KA24DE.
- Removed all Emission components.
- EGR Block off plate. (Optional)
- S14 Upper Intake Manifold. (optional)
- New intake manifold gasket
- Bunged Oil pan for Turbo drain.
Turbo System;
- Stock SR T25 Garrett Turbo or bigger.
- KA24DE Turbo Manifold
- Oil feed and return line.
- Stock SR SMIC setup.
Tuning;
- Tuned ECU ( Enthalpy, JWT and Others)
- Maxima N60 MAF
Ignition;
- NGK BKR6E Plugs.
- Stock Ignition coil.
- New Wireset, Cap and rotor.
Fuel;
- SR 370cc Injectors
- 255lph fuel pump
Exhaust;
- Stock SR Downpipe
- 2.5" Exhaust or bigger.
DriveTrain;
- Aftermarket clutch

https://s-hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/263575_2225145034167_1413997181_32580250_6127556_n .jpg

[Prophet513]

hey Prophet, where abouts in Cincy are you?

that pacesetter prolly wont cut it, you're going to want a 3" exhaust from what i understand, but iirc apexi and megan racing both make some really mellow toned down 3" exhausts that look stockish

I like to think I'm in the middle of Cincinnati ha not east nor west side but feel free to PM me for more details on that one ha

anyway yeah I'm hoping maybe a 2.5"? since EVERYTHING else seems to be 2.5"

I don't even care if it looks stock really either, my pacesetter looks so ugly ha

[Prophet513]

And to sum up this thread so far, here's my current list as to what I would need to run a basic KA-T setup:

1. T25/28 turbo.
2. Intercooler - big or small, placed wherever reasonable, including piping.
3. Air intake - to fit the turbo setup.
4. Down pipe - stock s14 seems easiest.
5. Fuel injectors - SR 370cc.
6. Oil lines.
7. Another oil pan.
8. BOV.
9. ECU tune.
10. The MAF seems optional - I’ve heard the stock one MAF is fine, but if not maybe a z32 MAF.
11. Fuel Pump - Walbro 255.
12. Exhaust to suit turbo setup.
13. Clutch - stronger than stock, obviously.

not sure about o2 sensor/downpipe elbow


And recommended but pretty much obvious are:

1. Stronger suspension - Coilovers most recommended but you can get away with less.
2. Wider tires - I've heard minimum of 9.5 but to each his own.
3. Better brakes - z32, j30/q45. Personally I'm going with j30/q45.

[RedSiBaron]

Another addition, 02-05 sentra SER brembo upgrade calipers and rotors are direct bolt on to 4 lug

[Project S13]

You the man op, your thread answered a lot of questions I was planning on asking

[mikerbike]

- Stock SR SMIC setup.
- Maxima N60 MAF
- 2.5" Exhaust or bigger.


I use a stock 240SX exhaust, and a stock DE MAF. I don't see a need to upgrade either of those for a baby turbo like mine. How much power can be made with the factory DE MAF?

I used a SMIC for a year or so. It got heat soaked really fast, IMO. I'd definitely not recommend using one, ever.

The KA/SR transmission seems to be pretty fragile at higher loads, but I have never had more than ~230HP, so I am just reciting what I've read/heard. I've only broken one transmission. 2nd gear broke after about 3 years drifting with a stock SR and 235 & smaller tires.

And you don't need another oil pan, unless you find one already modified with an oil drain barb.

[GroundPerformance]

I use a stock 240SX exhaust, and a stock DE MAF. I don't see a need to upgrade either of those for a baby turbo like mine. How much power can be made with the factory DE MAF?

Actually it would be optimal if you do. There's a reason most rom tuners ask to have atleast an N60 Maf for a basic KA-T tune not only are they cheap and easy to find it can meter up to 300rwhp. Stock KA and SR Maf meters just close to 200rwhp. anything more it would be close to max that it would make your setup run lean. I've done few so called bare minimum KA-T and stock maf always maxed since most of this KA-T setup makes atleast low 200rwhp. As for the exhaust its beneficial to have a slighly bigger piping. Unlike NA form its size accordingly for a little bit up back pressure to gain some torque but since its being upgraded to FI you really dont want as much backpressure.

I used a SMIC for a year or so. It got heat soaked really fast, IMO. I'd definitely not recommend using one, ever.

Depend on what turbo your running and how much boost. All have its limits. Cant expect an stock S13 SMIC to properly cool down past 10+psi on a T25 which is close past its efficiency range anyways. There are other SMIC alternatives like S15, ARC and Blitz. FMIC of course would be great. proper ventilation and ducting goes a long way..

The KA/SR transmission seems to be pretty fragile at higher loads, but I have never had more than ~230HP, so I am just reciting what I've read/heard. I've only broken one transmission. 2nd gear broke after about 3 years drifting with a stock SR and 235 & smaller tires.

KA/SR are technically the same 71c tranny minus a few gear ratio and bellhousing difference. My last setup held well up to 300flb of torque. Main reason KA-T guys breaks more tranny than SR is mostly KA-T puts down way more torque. Better oil and learning how to shift properly actually helps longevity.

And you don't need another oil pan, unless you find one already modified with an oil drain barb.

Absolutely. although if you can find one for cheap it would be less down time.



Hopefully this should cover this whole thread already.. GL to the OP and your plans.

[Prophet513]

Thank you very much - and that goes to EVERYONE with something positive to add.

The pacesetter actually has 2.5" tubing, but in the end it's still ugly. I'll probably run it for a little and see how things go seeing as how even a stock exhaust can handle the job...

However what about a turbo flange?

[Prophet513]

R.S. Enthalpy: Nissan ROM Tunes, ECU Reflashes and Dyno Tuning. Tampa Bay, Florida. (http://www.rs-enthalpy.com/usedecus.html)

this here is a great place to find the whole ecu-tune for the ka-t all in one for everyone who is looking for more info or wants a shortcut...

thanks to DJ PoW for that.

And also, this leads to an octane question:

what gas does everyone feed their ka-t, especially for the bare minimum setup?

[mikerbike]

Actually it would be optimal if you do. There's a reason most rom tuners ask to have atleast an N60 Maf for a basic KA-T tune not only are they cheap and easy to find it can meter up to 300rwhp. Stock KA and SR Maf meters just close to 200rwhp. anything more it would be close to max that it would make your setup run lean. I've done few so called bare minimum KA-T and stock maf always maxed since most of this KA-T setup makes atleast low 200rwhp.

I've noticed a lot of tunes for N60 and N62. I just didn't know why. I'm definitely no tuner so this is good information for me. Thanks.

I've been tempted to remove the exhaust and see if it's a noticeable difference. I just don't dig loud cars anymore.

[Prophet513]

I just don't dig loud cars anymore.

yeah i feel like unless youre that kind of person that everyone knows what i'm talking about, a loud car just sounds like a pos to everyone...

it's having a car that sounds RIGHT.

hell, a lot of people don't even know the significance of a 240sx... :(


......but i take that back. people in the car world know what they are. and still, loud = ricey.

[GroundPerformance]

I've noticed a lot of tunes for N60 and N62. I just didn't know why. I'm definitely no tuner so this is good information for me. Thanks.

I've been tempted to remove the exhaust and see if it's a noticeable difference. I just don't dig loud cars anymore.

You should see some good gains as your turbo would flow a lot better. I wouldn't worry to much about noise. Turbo cars are actually quieter than NA. Turbine wheel actually helps on muffling the exhaust noise. I'm currently running a modified OE Subaru STI catback and it sounds like stock to me and piping is about 2.5" so it works out nicely.

[Prophet513]

Okay. I'm coming with another sort of question now, I guess it could have many answers.

Basically, I Googled ka-t setups and I was looking for pictures when I found out that pretty much all of the engine bays of ka-t setups just look really abnormal. Of course, some look completely fine.

I'm just wondering how much custom fabrication is done in the average ka-t setup if anyone has any answer

[zneubauer]

hey buddy I've been asking pretty much the same thing and I got a small intercooler, modify a pipe set meant for an sr,and 2" cold side and 2.5" hot side.

[Prophet513]

hey buddy I've been asking pretty much the same thing and I got a small intercooler, modify a pipe set meant for an sr,and 2" cold side and 2.5" hot side.

would that mean yours is side mount? i heard they dont work too well ha

[zneubauer]

would that mean yours is side mount? i heard they dont work too well ha

nah I meant aftermarket pipe set and a smaller front mount. I miswrote that. =p :snoop:

[Prophet513]

nah I meant aftermarket pipe set and a smaller front mount. I miswrote that. =p :snoop:

aahh okay ha.
Regardless, I need to start getting parts together. Getting them 1 by 1 as I go would be good motivation ha.

I'm pretty sure I just want a small intercooler, but I'm trying to find the right one for cheap..

Can anybody name a price for a decent BOV? Used or new...

[Prophet513]

It just makes all the power about 1000rpm sooner, and fades off about 1000rpm sooner.

at what rpm does your turbo spool on your ka-t?

[Prophet513]

and finally... wastegate anyone?

[codyace]

Call me crazy, but has the search feature stopped working?

[Prophet513]

Call me crazy, but has the search feature stopped working?

Sure hasn't. Have you tried searching lately?

I'm keeping everything in one thread and that question is related to the topic of this thread. And for other people in the future this thread can help all in one stop, as you can see it's done so already.

[Chaluska]

and finally... wastegate anyone?

if your running a t25 or t28 the wastegate is built in..

otherwise, thats one item i wouldnt suggest cheaping out on.. turbonetics makes a very nice and RELIABLE wastegate.

[badbob2121]

if your running a t25 or t28 the wastegate is built in...

You mean it comes with an internal wastegate...?

[codyace]

Have you tried searching lately?

Yes, and found the answers to all of your questions in about 10 minutes. I bet if I used google it would take even less time.

I guess ultimately what pisses me off about 'threads' like this (and false assumption that the creators of them are helping others) is that this information is already out there...and has been now for over a decade. It's not hard to find, nor is it hard to sift though the results you do come across. The main issue with threads like these is that it attacts people who really don't know, and people who give poor information...whereas if you search your questions you can compare answers, and deduce the most reasonable answer from a multitude of sources.

I know I may sound harsh, but your questions are all super easy/beginner type questions that even I discovered and found back in 2003 when I turboed my Altima...and you can be assured I knew better than making a thread as being spoonfed information is not to be ever confused with learning. (You don't ask your professor for the answers to your calculus work before you even attempt do ya?).

The only advice I'll leave you with, is the part you cheap on will always bite you in the ass, you can't beat oem, and if you're go to make bigger power down the road, don't buy the little shit now, buy the stuff once and be done. Just remember that if you are going to cheap out, make sure it's not a crucial item. With that said cheap/fast/reliable....cheap and fast isn't reliable, cheap and reliable, isn't fast. Fast and Reliable isn't cheap.

[Boostin240sx]

Yes, and found the answers to all of your questions in about 10 minutes. I bet if I used google it would take even less time.

I guess ultimately what pisses me off about 'threads' like this (and false assumption that the creators of them are helping others) is that this information is already out there...and has been now for over a decade. It's not hard to find, nor is it hard to sift though the results you do come across. The main issue with threads like these is that it attacts people who really don't know, and people who give poor information...whereas if you search your questions you can compare answers, and deduce the most reasonable answer from a multitude of sources.

I know I may sound harsh, but your questions are all super easy/beginner type questions that even I discovered and found back in 2003 when I turboed my Altima...and you can be assured I knew better than making a thread as being spoonfed information is not to be ever confused with learning. (You don't ask your professor for the answers to your calculus work before you even attempt do ya?).

The only advice I'll leave you with, is the part you cheap on will always bite you in the ass, you can't beat oem, and if you're go to make bigger power down the road, don't buy the little shit now, buy the stuff once and be done. Just remember that if you are going to cheap out, make sure it's not a crucial item. With that said cheap/fast/reliable....cheap and fast isn't reliable, cheap and reliable, isn't fast. Fast and Reliable isn't cheap.

Agree with Cody!

Use the search button, all of this was available in 2004 when I had my first KA-t and I'm sure there has been a plethora amount of information posted since then.

The fact you didn't know a T25 had internal wastegate (I assume you understand the function of a wastegate) and tapping an oil pan to return oil to the pan IS required means you still have lots of homework. SEARCH!

[codyace]

The fact you didn't know a T25 had internal wastegate (I assume you understand the function of a wastegate) and tapping an oil pan to return oil to the pan IS required means you still have lots of homework. SEARCH!


Well said. Without knowing even the basics only sets the car up for failure for sure!

[Prophet513]

I mean this is why I come here in the first place. Because I DON'T know this stuff.

I've pretty much learned everything I need now though and it was good to get info from several different sources here, and other websites like ka-t.org.

Also, I do know about going cheap on the less important parts. I don't plan on going for bigger power down the road. This is my first project like this and I really want it to be as simple as I can get it..

I'm not talking about cheap ass set up or cheap parts or bare minimum that will give me a ka24det for a total of 1 month, but what I will need to keep it running properly for those times I decide to drive a little harder with obiviously more than stock power..

As I said, reliable and cheap is what works for me. 200rwhp to some people is probably a joke but my 240sx is the fastest car I've owned so even a boost of 5 psi to get through the higher RPMs is fine with me...

[GroundPerformance]

I mean this is why I come here in the first place. Because I DON'T know this stuff.

I've pretty much learned everything I need now though and it was good to get info from several different sources here, and other websites like ka-t.org.

Also, I do know about going cheap on the less important parts. I don't plan on going for bigger power down the road. This is my first project like this and I really want it to be as simple as I can get it..

I'm not talking about cheap ass set up or cheap parts or bare minimum that will give me a ka24det for a total of 1 month, but what I will need to keep it running properly for those times I decide to drive a little harder with obiviously more than stock power..

As I said, reliable and cheap is what works for me. 200rwhp to some people is probably a joke but my 240sx is the fastest car I've owned so even a boost of 5 psi to get through the higher RPMs is fine with me...

Well Said.. Just do plenty of homework. Search for others KA-T setup and learn from it. Good luck on your future build.

[Tantwoforty]

i was gonna post my setup untill i got through the whole thread.
this has been beaten to death by everyone.
you get what you pay for.

And this.

Below is my bare minimum KA-T parts without cutting corners and have a nice daily KA-T with good enough power and some occasional track days.

Engine;
- Fully stock Healthy KA24DE.
- Removed all Emission components.
- EGR Block off plate. (Optional)
- S14 Upper Intake Manifold. (optional)
- New intake manifold gasket
- Bunged Oil pan for Turbo drain.
Turbo System;
- Stock SR T25 Garrett Turbo or bigger.
- KA24DE Turbo Manifold
- Oil feed and return line.
- Stock SR SMIC setup.
Tuning;
- Tuned ECU ( Enthalpy, JWT and Others)
- Maxima N60 MAF
Ignition;
- NGK BKR6E Plugs.
- Stock Ignition coil.
- New Wireset, Cap and rotor.
Fuel;
- SR 370cc Injectors
- 255lph fuel pump
Exhaust;
- Stock SR Downpipe
- 2.5" Exhaust or bigger.
DriveTrain;
- Aftermarket clutch

[mikerbike]

at what rpm does your turbo spool on your ka-t?

In 5th gear, I started at about 1800rpm and it reached 8psi at ~2500rpm. But it doesn't really pull until about 3000.

[Prophet513]

Well Said.. Just do plenty of homework. Search for others KA-T setup and learn from it. Good luck on your future build.

Thank you very much.

Tantwoforty I would like to hear your setup too. It wouldn't hurt

[Prophet513]

Will I be able to use an s15 bov with a t25 ka-t setup?

I don't see why not but I haven't seen anybody else using one

[codyace]

Thank you very much.

Tantwoforty I would like to hear your setup too. It wouldn't hurt


Why not backsearch him


Will I be able to use an s15 bov with a t25 ka-t setup?

I don't see why not but I haven't seen anybody else using one

Any BOV will work. So long as you recirculate.