Making toe lock out kit

[ezza]

I already have the apropriate sized high tensile nuts and bolts, I just have to make the washers on the lathe tomorrow.

Can anyone give me any hints or tips i should know?

I measured with a micrometer and figured that id make the washers 35m diameter, 5mm thick with a 12mm hole.

does this sound right? can anyone chime in thats made some?

cheers

[az_240]

Also interested.... Does everyone just put their lockout washers on the outboard side of the subframe? I've heard of a few people just weld washers in. Pics would be nice.

[godrifttoday]

I welded mine .

[ezza]

.....dont suppose anyone is willing to share the measurements for the wahsers?

[Howie Felter Snatch]

Just buy the kit SPL makes.. CNC'ed Aluminum plates and grade 10.9 Hardware.. I got the kit for both my TOE and CAMBER eccentric bolts and its fucking legit!

[Bushido]

No doubt it's legit, but $70 for 4 bolts and 8 washers?

[godrifttoday]

The measurement I used I weld mine was the same diameter of the bolt

[Matej]

That SPL kit seems pretty pointless. I do not see what advantage it has over using the stock bolts. Just set the stock bolts at full negative or positive, depending on which direction one expects the suspension to have more pull towards.

For example, if one is using adjustable RUCA to correct negative camber, meaning the RUCA will be pushing on the bolt, using the stock eccentric bolt set at full negative camber would be better than just using a kit in which the bolt goes through the middle of the slotted hole, because with the eccentric bolt it is prevented from moving back not only by the washer but also by the bolt itself.
Same with toe. If one's suspension has a natural tendency to have too much toe-in, so toe rods are used to add more toe-out, just set the stock eccentric bolt at full toe-in.

I would like to see a kit that fills the slotted holes, and instead of the bolt going through the middle, it would be either at full positive or negative, so it could be flipped around as desired.

[codyace]

I don't understand why you guys aren't just using smaller washers and normal hardware....

[ezza]

One of my oem bolts broke while I was changing over subframes so I wanted to put a lockout kit on rather than buy new oem, but it's very pricey for just washers plus shipping in my instance. I already have bolts and was going to make washers on the lathe but just wondered if anyone had the measurements to save me some time.

Cheers

[Mitsubayati]

That SPL kit seems pretty pointless. I do not see what advantage it has over using the stock bolts. Just set the stock bolts at full negative or positive, depending on which direction one expects the suspension to have more pull towards.

For example, if one is using adjustable RUCA to correct negative camber, meaning the RUCA will be pushing on the bolt, using the stock eccentric bolt set at full negative camber would be better than just using a kit in which the bolt goes through the middle of the slotted hole, because with the eccentric bolt it is prevented from moving back not only by the washer but also by the bolt itself.
Same with toe. If one's suspension has a natural tendency to have too much toe-in, so toe rods are used to add more toe-out, just set the stock eccentric bolt at full toe-in.

I would like to see a kit that fills the slotted holes, and instead of the bolt going through the middle, it would be either at full positive or negative, so it could be flipped around as desired.


lol. that's exactly what I did for that same reason haha