Hello, have a ?

[sticky240]

I'm new to these boards and somewhat new to 240's

I just got my very own last month (paid $1800)

Well my question for you is simple.

I'm going to go with a rattle can paint job on my car (yes I know about all the bad things)

But I just don't have much $$ now and want to change my car.

So I was wondering if this sander (http://www.ryobitools.com/product/product.asp?prodid=154&prodcat=2&toolcat=2) Or one similar would be good to sand off the top coat of paint and some oxidization I have on hood, roof, and trunk?

After I sand I plan on primer, wet sand, primer, 2 coats of black, maybe a clear coat

I know it will look cheap (or crap depends on if you want to be nice or not) but I am just looking for something simple since I'm looking to get a full paintjob for like another year or so (till I have some body and engine mods)

edit:
If that sander is not good or too much, would it be just better to sand the car down by hand? say with 400-600 grit paper then maybe 1200 or so to smooth after primer?

[brianglawson]

sand by hand, and when you do actually paint it with the spray bomb do 6 or 7 very thin coats, then 34 very thin coats of clear and buff on it, me and a friend did it to an aold saab and it doest look bad really

[phrozen]

just sand the whole thing down and primer it... do it by hand get a few friends to help or borrow a sander, save the money ud spend on a sander, sandpaper, paint, cleacoat paint. and put it towards a macco paint job. Just sand a prep the car remove all the body panels and have them painted seperatly. you will have yourself a nice paintjob!

[sticky240]

so then it is better by hand then using an orbital sander?

is the orbital sander too ruff on the surface?

What grits should i use if i do it by hand?

[misnomer]

As I recall, the orbital sander will leave swirl patterns in the surface, and will generally be harsher than sanding by hand.

How bad is the existing paint? Keep that in mind before you start this job. It isn't impossible to get it decent looking with a rattle can, but it is definitely difficult.

[sticky240]

Well I just came back from Maaco (went to go smog my 240 and Maaco was right next door) were I got an estimate for $718.37

That includes their prep work (sand body, primer), Ultra-Urethane 1-stage paint job, UV Sunscreen, and integrated clear coat.

Not bad, but I just can't afford that now and am just looking for a simple cheap solution. Considering I have some free time, I don't mind doing a rattle can job.

Here is what the car looks like now

Notice front bumper is faded as with the rear of the car (yes I know, i have a 240 4x4, but spring are in the future)
http://www.ganoobies.net/albums/Car/new_24001.jpg

Notice the hood oxidization here and upclose on that faded bumper
http://www.ganoobies.net/albums/Car/new_24010.jpg

Here is the roofs oxidization. dame goes for a little of the rear hatch
http://www.ganoobies.net/albums/Car/new_24007.jpg

[HiPSI]

honestly, i'd just pull the front bumper/hood off, and the rear bumper/hatch and fix those areas. the rest of the car look like it's fairly clean. hell, you could probably wet sand and re-clear the hood and roof.

good luck with it either way, a friend of mine just got a black '90 with the same exact paint problems.

[sticky240]

what grit sand paper should i use first?

Then after the primer?

Also, after I prime it, do I want to seal it then paint or paint then seal?

Yes I am searching google for all this info too:)

[240Driver39]

personally, id just leave it and work on other stuff, i mean...its not that bad, and i really dont think a rattle can paintjob is gonna really improve how it looks