welding in new subframe bolt...

[GL Chrillz]

I broke a subframe bolt dropping it out for solid risers, i have finally acquired one from a zilvia member. I'm aware that pretty much my only 2 options are to weld in what i have, or cut out the floor and try to drop the bolt in. What do you guys suggest? What kind of prices am I looking at for this? Can I drop in the bolt from the top and not weld it in? If I drop in the bolt from the top, is it possible to drive it to my school and have someone weld it in?

here's a pic of what I have gotten to put in my car.

http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae85/Fam1ne/IMAG0082.jpg

[slim]

can u post a pic of the inside of that rail. my friend is in the same situation and ive been looking into a fix but need to see the inside to get a better idea of what to do. thanks in advance.

[GL Chrillz]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/297450_10150333433787224_655237223_7855571_4949669 27_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/378570_10150333434492224_655237223_7855573_1000640 151_n.jpg

[jr_ss]

You need to start by taking a bunch of measurements so you can be sure that you get this stud back in the right spot. Once you have measurements to verify it's position, I'd start by cutting a rectangle or square around that stud. Lets say you make the stud your centerline and go 1-1.5 inches to the left and right of that centerline and scribe a line. Cut inside those lines and clean edges with a file or flapper wheel, removing paint atleast a 1/4" back from around your edges. Then do the same on your car, making sure the measurements are exactly alike. Cut the bad out, clean edges and remove paint as stated above. Get a welder and tack the new piece in, slide the subframe up into position to be sure it's going to work where you have it tacked. Once that's been done, pull the subframe down and mig weld the piece into it's location. Let the metal cool, knock off any slag scuff, wipe down with acetone and spray some primer/sealant on it. Final step is to paint it.

[GL Chrillz]

Wow, great post. Thanks. Probably the most in depth description from a zilvia member. Do you think its possible for me to rent a welder and do it myself? I've welded an exhaust once in class, but I was wondering if I could get it welded in good enough to hold. It wouldn't be clean, and I'm not too sure how hard this would be vs an exhaust. But if I could do it myself, then i could drive it into school and have someone clean the weld up a little. Does this sound like a viable way of going about this? If not, what would I be looking at price wise for someone to come to my house and weld it?

[jr_ss]

If you aren't proficient at welding, I'd recommend finding someone that is to do it. I'm not sure about local welder rates there, but I'm sure you can call around. It would take a professional welder 5 mins to do, if you had all the metal prepped and pieces ready to rock and roll that is. Just explain what you need done and I'm sure they can give you a rate. Probably wouldn't run more than $100-$150. If you go that route, make sure you have a few buddies around to help you throw the subframe up in the car real quick before the welder finalizes everything.

[Jtuned_andy]

You'll be lucky to find a fabricator to do this for you. This is pretty invasive work that needs to be done.

On hondas when they tear out a subframe from too large a sway bar, the car is totaled. Do you have a strong attachment to this car? I would suggest buying a new one.

If anything, I would cut the old subframe stud down level around where it sheared and then bevel both the old piece and new piece, make sure you've measured 10 times and then weld the new stud you received onto the old stud after grinding down the weld meticulously.

I do not take any responsibility for the advice I give you if your subframe is out of true after this process has been completed

[GL Chrillz]

Alright thanks for all the help. I'll try to start prepping it tomorrow/ Saturday. If I have any more questions I might pm you if that's alright

[jr_ss]

I don't have a problem with that...

It's not invasive if he already has all the cutting, grinding, etc out of the way. The fabricator is there strictly to weld the metal back in. There's plenty of room under there once the subframe is dropped out of the way. He didn't pull his out because of stress from his suspension, he broke it loosening the nut.

[GL Chrillz]

Yeah, nut was seizes on + breaker bar = me breaking things. I've seen of people welding in new bolts with sections of the subframe, + talked to all 3 of my auto teachers and none of them have warned me about it being unsafe welding in a new bolt as long as its welded in properly. I'm gonna try to talk my friends dad into welding it for me if I prep it, in trade for my quad I blew up that hes been wanting lol.

[slim]

thanks for posting those pics! this will help alot! was this one of the frt or rear bolts?

[GL Chrillz]

rear drivers side is what i broke, that's what I told the guy I needed. so I'm giong to assume that is what he cut off.

[GL Chrillz]

I've only managed to find 1 person who is willing to tackle the challenge, and he would require me to get my car to his house like 25 miles away. I'm wondering if i should buy a welder and do it myself. Idk that much about welders, but theres some on craigslist barely used twice for super cheap. is a 90amp mig good enough to weld this? it says its good up to 1/2" and the frame rail is maybe 1/8" or so, it's not very thick.

[sr20sean]

if you were local i couldve done it for you.

[GL Chrillz]

yeah, no one seems to be local. and i have no truck or trailer or anything. what do you think, is a 90 amp mig strong enough to weld it?

[Doris-s14]

Dude can u post those pics again of the inside of the rail there not coming up... I need to replace 2 of them..