Rear Traction Rod-JIC Magic,how the heck does it work?

[Ghettokracker71]

http://www.raretrick.com/index1.asp?cat=234&Page=1&Display=Yes&Back=Listings&ProductsID=4376

Rear traction bar for RPS13 chassis,I'm wondering does it work ? and will it affect corning ? How does it work ? Does anybody have this on their car.....thanks !

[ucfz31s13]

http://www.club4ag.com/images/Battle%20Version%20Calatog/bvs13.jpg

From SPLPARTS.com-
"The rear traction rod (forward link) allows adjustment of the length of the rear upper front link, which when adjusted together with the rear toe arm, the geometry of the two two arms can be restored to eliminate bump-steer."

z

[Dousan_PG]

your gonna pay 300 for Toe links when SPLparts.com sells it for $232?

say it ain't so

JIC is quite overpriced for most things. they all serve the same function, so dont break the budget for name brand when the 'other guys' have the same type of quality and item for far cheaper.

[Ghettokracker71]

Originally posted by dousan36
your gonna pay 300 for Toe links when SPLparts.com sells it for $232?

say it ain't so

JIC is quite overpriced for most things. they all serve the same function, so dont break the budget for name brand when the 'other guys' have the same type of quality and item for far cheaper.

no way dude! that was the first of it I had seen....Thanks for all the info people ! I wonder how hard it is to adjust everything....

[Dousan_PG]

Originally posted by Ghettokracker71
no way dude! that was the first of it I had seen....Thanks for all the info people ! I wonder how hard it is to adjust everything....


you dont adjust it yourself (to get it back to 'safe' settings)
the alignment shop will.

[Dousan_PG]

i forgot
there's a group buy for them right now from SPL

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41168

[oberkill]

Here are a few pics of them installed on my car.

http://www.project240.com/pictures/240/jicarms.jpg

http://www.project240.com/pictures/240/jicarms1.jpg

Alan

[ucfz31s13]

yummy...

[Ghettokracker71]

Super super awsome !! Thanks everybody,would y'all say its worth it,the investment ?

[silvia14]

Originally posted by oberkill
Here are a few pics of them installed on my car.

http://www.project240.com/pictures/240/jicarms.jpg

http://www.project240.com/pictures/240/jicarms1.jpg

Alan

well this is the TOE link....NOT the forward/traction link

nice bling bling though =P

[Ghettokracker71]

SilviaS14-I was going to say this,but when I saw your pics I was thinking :wtf:just when I understand this dude has something that looks completely diff on his car claiming to be the same thing ! Looks nice though...looks like a finned rear diff cover too

[oberkill]

Sorry read the first post too fast! I do have the forward links installed as well now but no pic. I will try to shoot one tomarrow but its supposed to snow like 4 inches so it may have to wait until after it thaws! lol

Alan

[[email protected]]

Originally posted by ucfz31s13
http://www.club4ag.com/images/Battle%20Version%20Calatog/bvs13.jpg
z

This pic is at a good angle to explain: look at the toe arm and the traction rod, you can see both arms control toe. If you lengthen the traction rod, the wheel will toe out, if you shorten it the wheel will toe in. Similarly if you lengthen the toe rod, the wheel will toe in and if you shorten the rod, the wheel will toe out.

You also notice all the upper arms are shorter than the lower arms. This is because when the wheel moves upwards (the suspension compresses), the shorter upper arms pivot more than the longer lower arms, creating more negative camber and slight toe in for better cornering. It also means that when you lower your ride height, you automatically end up with some negative camber and toe in.

So to correct the toe problem with lowered cars, you install an adjustable toe arm. You adjust the lower toe arm because the upper toe arm (ie. the forward link) is already pulled in more than the lower toe arm, so shortening the lower toe arm will get everything square again.

But when you install an adjustable upper arm to correct for camber, adjusting the length of the upper arm will affect the suspension geometry. Ideally if you lengthen the upper arm, you should also lengthen the forward link accordingly so everything is still square.

But it is necessary to be careful about setting toe with both arms. The ratio of the lengths of the upper forward/toe link vs. the lower toe link determines how toe changes when the wheel moves up and down. Excessive toe change can cause "bump steer", that is the toe changes so much when you hit a bump that the car steers itself. It is safer to adjust toe through the lower toe link because it is longer in the first place, so changing its length by the same amount (vs. the short upper forward link) would not affect bump steer as much...

Most alignment shops would not know how to adjust BOTH links at the same time. They can only see toe on their machine, and adjusting either link can change toe, so which should they adjust? Some race alignment shops have bump steer gauges, but race alignments can be very costly. If you just need to adjust toe without getting into a race alignment, then it is better just to buy the lower toe link (for the reason mentioned in the last paragraph).

[Ghettokracker71]

Thanks guys.so a forward link would also be a good investmet if I got a traction bars?