Hi, new here with what i believe is a Valve Seal problem..

[FlipLightVert]

Hello, I'm new here and this is my first post, let me first start off by saying, yes i have done alot of searching and sorry if this is the wrong page in the forums.. and basically from what ive found still isn't making me 100% sure what problem i have.
I've got a 92 KA24DE with 135k miles and i believe my valve seals are either worn or have failed or whatever else might happen to them lol here's the story in short, btw this seemed to happen out of nowhere(or atleast i just started recently noticing it)

Whenever i idle for a good minute or two, the second i press the gas to get moving, there comes a decent size puff of blue smoke that comes out the exhaust(only when warm engine, doesnt happen when cold). That is the ONLY time i will see the smoke. Cruising, flooring it, downhill off the gas(high vacuum), none of those will i see the smoke, it's only when i idle for too long.
Cold starts-no smoke(but a very very faint smell of burnt oil)
Warm starts- same as cold starts, no smoke but light smell

Tomorow if i have time, i'm going to do a wet and dry compression test just to be certain it's not the rings, ill post the results when i get a chance.....searching has everyone saying to compression and leak down test, although i dont have a leak down testor, i can only do compression....but searching also 100% of the valve seal posts show that every single person has smoke on start up which i do not....and that's what is confusing me.

[BILLFISHER21]

sounds like valve seals to me. Although you should have a little puff on cold starts as well.

[fliprayzin240sx]

My shits the same way, but I also have low compressions. Something in the range of 145-150.

[Kingtal0n]

they are very cheap and pretty easy to change with the old compressor air in the cylinder trick. Using the right compressor of course, and I mean spring compressor. after the third one you get the hang of it, and keep the piston TDC just in case the valve does drop.

[FlipLightVert]

they are very cheap and pretty easy to change with the old compressor air in the cylinder trick. Using the right compressor of course, and I mean spring compressor. after the third one you get the hang of it, and keep the piston TDC just in case the valve does drop.

Yeah, i was reading how to do it...the only thing im iffy about is taking out the cams since ive never done anything with a timing chain/belt before. Im in school for automechanics and ive seen people do it and know how to line up and check the marks so i think i can handle it. My air compressor shoots 120psi, im pretty sure thats plenty to hold the valves up. Also the right spring compressor you say, which do you reccommend, the one that's like a level you pull down or the hammer one? im thinking the level one would be better/easier

thanks for the replys =)

[AdrenalineS14]

Yep just did mine a few months back pretty easy i didnt even use a air compressor to hold the valves up all you need to do is bring the piston up to each set of valve seals your replacing... the way i did it was setting the crank to TDC which brings pistons #1 and 4 up top replaced those seals then turned the crank till pistons 3 and 4 where up and finished the job... i would pull your lifters out and rebleed with fresh oil then slap everything back together... cause somehow 3 of my lifters ended up getting air in them and had tapping when I fired her back up :( had to pull the cams and rocker arms back out and bleed them then everything was cherry! :)

[idahotuner]

A Marco universal valve spring tool. My schoolshop had one. It worked good. I ended uP buying one for my own tool collection. They work when u can us the c style tool

[FlipLightVert]

Yep just did mine a few months back pretty easy i didnt even use a air compressor to hold the valves up all you need to do is bring the piston up to each set of valve seals your replacing... the way i did it was setting the crank to TDC which brings pistons #1 and 4 up top replaced those seals then turned the crank till pistons 3 and 4 where up and finished the job... i would pull your lifters out and rebleed with fresh oil then slap everything back together... cause somehow 3 of my lifters ended up getting air in them and had tapping when I fired her back up :( had to pull the cams and rocker arms back out and bleed them then everything was cherry! :)

How do i "rebleed the lifters"?

Also i just finished compression test...seems decent, i mean from what i understand my rings are not the problem....

DRY - 180 - 190 - 190 - 185
WET - 185 - 200 - 195 - 190

yeah, kinda low, and wet test did raise them, but nothing it too signifigant change for me to think my rings are completely shot...

as of now, there is still no smoke on start up, only when warm and after idling for a while it happens, but here's an odd thing, when im cruising i can hear and feel a slight misfire in the exhaust and feel the car jump (if you rode in my car, you wouldnt notice it unless i pointed it out)...would this be caused by the valve seals? maybe oil hitting the plugs or something? when i pulled out the plugs now, they all looked normal to me, although they were black around the bottom of the threads, the electrode looked fine(plugs and wires have maybe 300 miles on them.

But enough of me talking lol whatcha guys think?

[FlipLightVert]

Adding one more thing! I dont see how this makes a difference, but the FSM says to press the gas pedal to the floor when cranking....i didnt do that =/ is that a big deal?
I removed the fuel pump fuse and let the car die, and unplugged the distributer before testing

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I re did the test, re edited the results in the post above me...closed throttle they were all around 160psi dry, so yes it does make a difference lol makes me feel much better about my engine....so valve seals it is right?