niscur29
09-21-2011, 03:31 PM
I have been searching all over for a reason as to WTH is going on. I have a rebuilt redtop that was once running albeit not 100% perfect but it was running and able to be driven. I took some time to paint the car and put the whole interior back together and im back to wanting to take my newly completed car for a drive.
And my setup is as follows:
Built Redtop 272 cams and supporting valvetrain shit
NIsmo 740's
LS2 Coils
New wiring harness with ignitor removed for LS coils
Supra TT fuel pump
Enthalpy ECU
50 trim with PB topmount
Quest Alternator
Before painting it I know I had a problem with the #1 coil pack putting out a constant signal/spark. While trying to get the timing right hooking up a light to #1 resulted in a very inconsistant light flash and resulting jumping timing and the car drove like it was missing. While hooking the pick up to the other 3 produced a very steady flash (not trying to time with 2-4 just checking the signal). Figured it was CAS or ECU related as switching packs resulted in the same thing on #1 only. After I painted the car etc I purchased a new (used) CAS and installed it. I also got rid of my homemade plug wires and got a custom set of magnecors. Upon first start up the tach pegged all the way out and now it wont turn over just cranks. I have checked the wiring to ecu, tps, cas, and coil packs per fsm. Removed new cas and spun by hand and each pack gets a signal from ECU and injectors fire. However once I put the cas back in it just cranks. It did the same thing with the old CAS I removed when I spun it by hand. Now I am going to remove the valve cover and put the old cas back in and see if that works. But does anyone have any ideas? I bought the ECU used and sent it off to Enthalpy for a tune and I can't imagine he would send me one back that didnt work (I hope not). I also cant pull codes anymore as the screw on the ecu just spins now. I have a consult cable coming to see whats going on. Keep in mind the car and tach ran and was driveable prior to painting etc.
As far as timing setup with the new cas I know I was right, per everything that is available online and on the cas I lined up the dot farthest away with the cas and the second mark lined up once installed and the cas is centered.
I would really like to know why the tach pegged out too as I think they are related.
I can't imagine that installing the interior would cause anything (dash board etc) so it has to be ECU/CAS etc. THE ONLY THING I DID swap CAS's and put in new plug wires. The battery is a BRAND NEW as of 1 hour ago optima redtop.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
And my setup is as follows:
Built Redtop 272 cams and supporting valvetrain shit
NIsmo 740's
LS2 Coils
New wiring harness with ignitor removed for LS coils
Supra TT fuel pump
Enthalpy ECU
50 trim with PB topmount
Quest Alternator
Before painting it I know I had a problem with the #1 coil pack putting out a constant signal/spark. While trying to get the timing right hooking up a light to #1 resulted in a very inconsistant light flash and resulting jumping timing and the car drove like it was missing. While hooking the pick up to the other 3 produced a very steady flash (not trying to time with 2-4 just checking the signal). Figured it was CAS or ECU related as switching packs resulted in the same thing on #1 only. After I painted the car etc I purchased a new (used) CAS and installed it. I also got rid of my homemade plug wires and got a custom set of magnecors. Upon first start up the tach pegged all the way out and now it wont turn over just cranks. I have checked the wiring to ecu, tps, cas, and coil packs per fsm. Removed new cas and spun by hand and each pack gets a signal from ECU and injectors fire. However once I put the cas back in it just cranks. It did the same thing with the old CAS I removed when I spun it by hand. Now I am going to remove the valve cover and put the old cas back in and see if that works. But does anyone have any ideas? I bought the ECU used and sent it off to Enthalpy for a tune and I can't imagine he would send me one back that didnt work (I hope not). I also cant pull codes anymore as the screw on the ecu just spins now. I have a consult cable coming to see whats going on. Keep in mind the car and tach ran and was driveable prior to painting etc.
As far as timing setup with the new cas I know I was right, per everything that is available online and on the cas I lined up the dot farthest away with the cas and the second mark lined up once installed and the cas is centered.
I would really like to know why the tach pegged out too as I think they are related.
I can't imagine that installing the interior would cause anything (dash board etc) so it has to be ECU/CAS etc. THE ONLY THING I DID swap CAS's and put in new plug wires. The battery is a BRAND NEW as of 1 hour ago optima redtop.
Any help is greatly appreciated.