s13 blacktop rebuild

[ShadowMan]

Got the block and crank dropped off to the machine shop, should get it back in 2 weeks at the latest. So that gives me some time to get the parts ordered. I decided to go with frsports for all of it because their customer service with me so far has been excellent and hopefully it will all fit in one box so I can just pay 1 shipping fee. Got my parts list together and am going to order everything as soon as the shop gets back to me on my bearing sizes. Here's what I have, just want to make sure I'm not leaving one of those "while your in there might as well replace it" parts. Keep in mind I'm on a budget.
OEM parts
-thrust washer bearings
-main and rod bearings
-rear and front main seals
-pistons and rings
-timing chain
-oil pump
Aftermarket parts
-supertech valve seals
-ARP head studs
-Apexi headgasket
And
-rtv gasket maker
-redline assembly lube (4 oz.)

Rough total on this minus tax and shipping is right at $1,100. I'm sticking with the stock rods because they are still good and I my goal is now somewhere around 325-350. The only thing I'm not sure on is the supertech valve seals, but I would think frsport wouldn't sell em if they were shit, and the assembly lube. Is 1 4 0z. tube enough or should i spring for a couple. The FSM says to use it sparingly or it could affect the engines ability to turn over so I'm thinking it doesn't take but a drop or 2 on the surfaces that need it. I value your guys' opinion so let me have it fellas.
Heres the beast.
]My 240 pictures by shadowman0317 - Photobucket (http://s1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee511/shadowman0317/My%20240/?action=view&current=3.jpg)[IMG]http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee511/shadowman0317/My%20240/th_3.jpg

Sorry I suck at attaching pics, after about an hour, this is the best i could do, cuz i iz weetodded wen me plaa wif compoodurs.

[ShadowMan]

Couple of questions:
-What is the overall opinion on reusing rod bolts and main cap bolts?
-The fsm just says to use thread locker on certain bolts, but I know there are different colors, just not sure what color to use on what and the fsm doen't specify so any advice on this issue?
I'm not building this for high horse power right now. Just need to get it up and running and as long as it lasts 3-4 years Im good with that. By then I'll be ready to take this off daily driving duties and build it it for more power. In the beginning I was looking for around 350 hp, now I'm just looking to build it with the parts I listed and keep it reliable and fun while not grenading my budget.

[bataangpinoy]

common practice when building engines is to replace the head bolts, rod/main cap bolts.

on my old bmw track engines, the oe units were TTY and one they were tq'd, that was it. otherwise, you;re at 99% risk for engine failure from a stretched bolt snapping on you.

if you re use those bolts, then you're lucky if the engine will see more than a week

[ShadowMan]

thanks for the heads up. I'll be adding them to the list. I figured that was the case but OI wasn't sure. So thanks.

[ShadowMan]

Parts from FRsports arrived. Got block and crank back from machine shop. SO I guess here goes. This is the first time rebuilding an engine for me so we'll see what happens.
Questions-
-The block has the light layer of the fluid from the bath they gave it, my guess would be to clean all this stuff off with warm soapy water, am I right? Follow it up with a wipe down of rubbing alcohol maybe?
-Whats the best way to remove all the old rtv gasket crap of the mating surfaces of lower/upper oil pans? Would a scotch bright pad be too rough?

I do have a pdf fsm for s13/s14, but its just not specific enough for me on HOW to do things, and I don't want to eff this up. So any tips/warnings would help that aren't usually in the FSM's. Just nervous I guess as I'm not claiming to know what I'm doing, but as I'm on a budget, but I'm gonna try it anyway. Thanks.

[Kingtal0n]

with the price of a longblock engine being so cheap I dont see why you dont just pick up a low mileage longblock and run that. Hold off on the rebuild process for when you want to make more than 300 horsepower. The oem internals already assembled and ready to go for a daily driver... priceless knowing the factory was the last one to touch your engine internals. If you make a single tiny mistake... it has to come back out. See what I am saying?