View Full Version : How the eff do you remove these?
ShadowMan
09-19-2011, 03:09 PM
I am ready to take my block in for some machine work but do not know how to remove the stock oil catch can drain tube that routes the oil into the block as well as the water tube that is fitted into the block under the intake manifold. I have the fsm and it does not say HOW to remove/install these. My thought is to take my mini torch to heat the area around where they are pressed in then twist em out. But then i have to get them back in the right way so this pig doesn't leak. The tech said they need to be removed to resurface the deck. I'm all ears, or would it be all eyeballs in this case.
tt99ol
09-19-2011, 03:29 PM
You have the right idea, torch and work it out
ShadowMan
09-19-2011, 03:44 PM
Thanks tt99ol, now sitting here on thinking about installation, what kind of sealant would be used to refit them.
jr_ss
09-19-2011, 04:55 PM
You can purchase new ones via a Nissan dealership or online site. I'd recommend that because most likely youre going to destroy it taking them out.
If you purchase new, I wouldn't worry about sealant, just put some oil on it before you press it in. It's a press fit, so you shouldn't need sealant.
ShadowMan
09-19-2011, 06:20 PM
I'm thinking of maybe just tapping the holes and using AN fittings instead. Of course I will do this before I send it off for machining so all the shavings can get cleaned out when they put the block in the jet bath. Now, I'm sure someone has done this before, I'm just curious as to what size tap/fittings were used or should be used?
I got the water tube removed, used the torch to evenly heat around the tube, then used a hammer to lightly tap the tube from all sides until I could see it break loose. I clamped on a set vice grips, put more heat to where the tube has a thick collar and fits into the block, not on the pipe itself, and started twisting with the vice grips, pulling slighty outward as I did. It was slow at first but once I got enough of it out, I was able to slip a flathead in between the collar and lightly pry upward as kept twisting with the vice grips. Not too bad. Now until i figured this method out, I did do a pretty good job of puttin the hurt on the neck of the pipe. so yeah, hopefully I can get these AN fittings figured out.
boost addict
09-19-2011, 06:51 PM
My machine shop just took mine out and put then back in when they were done. Ask them if they will
ShadowMan
09-19-2011, 07:10 PM
I'm going to ask them if they can do the catch can drain tube for me. That one looks like a bigger bitch than the water tube. Hopefully my shop is as accomadating as yours boost addict.
ShadowMan
09-19-2011, 10:05 PM
That pro-lite shit looks nice. Anyone been using this stuff for an extended period with good/bad results? I think this budge build just exploded in my face. Too many important things to do right, that cost too damn much. FML.
jr_ss
09-20-2011, 10:40 AM
I welded an AN fitting onto the metal drain tube you just removed.
4sfed180
09-20-2011, 01:09 PM
heat with torch, then take a long extension and tap out the water pipe from the water pump side of the block. it comes right out. do the same for the breather tube. install back either with green, sleeve-type lock-tite or regular rtv sealant. either one has worked for every time.
i deck mill a lot of sr20 blocks and do this procedure all the time. I machined in a lathe a small piece that works for the water tube and one for the breather. it makes the job a lot quicker, but extension works too.
good luck
FIY...dont hammer on the top of the breather tube. you will break through the material and will have to weld it shut. tap on the round edge of the pipe which slips into the block.
ShadowMan
09-20-2011, 11:43 PM
4sfed180-thanks for the warning or i would probably would have done just that. I gave it a good try but just decided to leave that one to the professional at the shop. I wanted to do as much of this rebuild myself but somethings are better left to guys like you. Thanks for the advice, i have it written in my FSM now. Either way, I got this problem handled so check out my rebuild thread and i'll keep it all in there from now on.
dtorre13
07-18-2015, 04:08 PM
Hey quick question. Does the head have to be off to remove this oil catch can drain tube? Or can i do it while the head is still on?
The tube on my sr is leaking alot so i need to reseal.
Please let me know!
KiLLeR2001
07-18-2015, 04:12 PM
Hey quick question. Does the head have to be off to remove this oil catch can drain tube? Or can i do it while the head is still on?
The tube on my sr is leaking alot so i need to reseal.
Please let me know!
Yes, the head has to be off before you put that drain tube back on. My friend forgot to install his back on before putting the head on and he had a hell of a time putting it back in. I think it involved removing material just to fit it... lol.
dtorre13
07-19-2015, 01:30 PM
Crapp. I was swapping out my turbo and after i was done i come to find out thats leaking and i have a appointment to get the car tuned Thursday. I was hoping i could just take the manifold back off and try and pull out the tube and reseal it. So thats not happening right? No other way around this? :ugh:
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