Car keeps Stalling after Installing New Turbo Kit

[unbind213]

Hi, my car keeps stalling ever since I replaced my turbo kit with the Godspeed one for the sr20, (my car is a s14.5). The Autoshop I did it at replaced all the universal chinese crap and put on new steel braided oil feed lines and rebolted everything from the TurboManifold to the the downpipe gasket.

The car sounds and runs fine when on auto, but when i take her out for a spin she keeps stalling at the light (stops). The Auto Shop keeps telling me i just need to get it fine tuned but can there be a vacuum leak or a turbo leak? They keep insisting i just need to go take it to a tuner shop and have them fix it but it sounds suspicious. I mean the car starts and idles fine, but dont know what to do.

[!Zar!]

Sounds like your car has a vacuum leak. Try tightening the blow off valve and see if that makes a difference.

What tune does your car have?

What turbo are you running?

[dOMEmE]

the MAF?.....

[bova17]

^make sure everything is tight, some guy is probably is only make 10$ an hour and could have done a shit job
from what ive read it could be the bov because its letting air out thats accounted for , for example 10lbs of air is read by the maf, then the computer matches the air with fuel but the bov lets out some of that air making it run rich and want to stall

[unbind213]

Im running the sr20det turbo from godspeed, its an Amazon turbo kit but I replaced all the cheap oil lines and got a shop to bolt it right from the turbo manifold to the downpipe gasket.

the turbo is
Godspeed S13 S14 S15 Silvia Sr20 Sr20det T3/t4 T3t4 Top Mount Turbo Kit 350hp & Up

and the specs are
DESCRIPTION: 89-94 95-98 240sx s13 s14 s15 sr20 turbo charger set up this comes with the following items
-sr20 top mount cast t3 flange turbo manifold manifold -sr20 3" stainless turbo flex downpipe
-t3t4 .57ar turbo charger (good for 350+ hp) -Godspeed 38mm waste gate (set at 7psi)(comes with extra 11psi, 15 psi springs)
-Oil line kit , oil feed , oil return (with all fittings ) -this is a basic set up, this set up require an intercooler , and intercooler pipe and blow off valve to make it complete
T3T4 turbo charger .57ar ( polished compressor housing) Intake: 3 inch Inlet: 2 inch Compressor trim: .50 Compressor Wheel diameter: 50.16 / 76.84 Turbine Wheel diameter: 54.06 / 65.20 Exhaust Trim: .57ar Turbine flange type : T3 flange Down pipe flange type: 5 bolt standard Cooling type: oil cool only Horsepower rating: 350+

And i havent taken it to a tune shop yet, but it shouldnt keep stalling like that because of not getting it fine tuned, right?

[unbind213]

Also how would i be able to tighten up the BoV or see if the MAF is the problem? I mean if I pay a shop how much would it cost them if I were not to replace anything.

[nomoremk2]

Whatever shop you went to I wouldn't go back. If you have a problem they should take the car back and make good on it. Vacuum leaks are very minor or an improperly adjusted BOV but they should have never sent it out the door with those problems. It sounds like you have very little understanding of what's going on under the hood. Find a shop who deals with turbo cars and tuning and take it in. Tuning is extremely important in turbo cars.

[Hoffman5982]

...You did upgrade injectors, run a better Maf, and get at least a base tune right?

[unbind213]

No I havent but I was planning on getting deautschwerk injectors soon, and just looking for a shop to tune it at. I just want it operational so i can take it to a tuner.

[unbind213]

Im going to a shop tomorrow to check out the BoV and the MaF, that should make it at least operational (stop the stalling), till i get to a tuner shop, right? any answers thankful, sorry kinda noobish with cars.

[K_style]

Are you running that thing with stock ECU??


No I havent but I was planning on getting deautschwerk injectors soon, and just looking for a shop to tune it at. I just want it operational so i can take it to a tuner.


First, You shouldn't be even installing that big turbo without other supporting mods. Second, Don't expect your car to run like normal even on idle or low boost.
I've seen same shit happen to someone I know before. guess what? it was bad turbo what made car keep stalling and not being able to drive at all.

Which auto shop are you taking your car to? Of course Jiffy lube is not going to know shit about any of stuff you have..



I replaced my turbo kit with the Godspeed one for the sr20, (my car is a s14.5).
The Autoshop I did it at replaced all the universal chinese crap

But not the Turbo ???

[!Zar!]

So you haven't upgraded your maf, ecu, nor injectors, and you're asking why your car runs like shit?

[K_style]

No I havent but I was planning on getting deautschwerk injectors soon, and just looking for a shop to tune it at. I just want it operational so i can take it to a tuner.

So you haven't upgraded your maf, ecu, nor injectors, and you're asking why your car runs like shit?


Apparently his "autoshop" doesn't know shit....

[!Zar!]

I don't blame the auto shop.

He gave them the parts and the car and said install it.

They did the work and the car, 'runs'.

For all we know they purposely held out on him so that his car has to go under the knife again, that way they get paid.

It's all about the paper.
http://www.4tnz.com/files/justin_bieber_allowance.jpg

[unbind213]

well i bought it used and it was non-op, it has the blitz access ecu, blitz bov, also got the GT2860 Turbo so wondering if i should slap that back on.
if not would
Nissan 200SX,240SX 500cc SR20DET fuel injectors be enough for the turbo i got?

can some help me find the maf sensors and ecu(if i need that upgraded)

[K_style]

well i bought it used and it was non-op, it has the blitz access ecu, blitz bov, also got the GT2860 Turbo so wondering if i should slap that back on.
if not would
Nissan 200SX,240SX 500cc SR20DET fuel injectors be enough for the turbo i got?

can some help me find the maf sensors and ecu(if i need that upgraded)

I would get at least 740cc up

[K_style]

I don't blame the auto shop.

He gave them the parts and the car and said install it.

They did the work and the car, 'runs'.

For all we know they purposely held out on him so that his car has to go under the knife again, that way they get paid.

It's all about the paper.
http://www.4tnz.com/files/justin_bieber_allowance.jpg


I think I am getting "OD" on Biever guy because of you...

[unbind213]

Fsho thanks, I know the fuel injectors need to be replaced, and the ecu tuned, and to check out for a new MAF.

[unbind213]

wouldnt the deatschwerks 550cc be enough? also wondering which MAF i would have to get, found 200sx S14 Chip ECU Stage 3a 555cc SR20DET Nissan MAF

Im just trying to get this car up and running again so any help would be fine

[K_style]

Fsho thanks, I know the fuel injectors need to be replaced, and the ecu tuned, and to check out for a new MAF.


and boost controller, Front mount intercooler, Fuel pump, and I would definitely get the cams and valve springs

I hope you have very good paying job..

[K_style]

wouldnt the deatschwerks 550cc be enough? also wondering which MAF i would have to get, Im just trying to get this car up and running


You will see people maxing out 550c with 2871r turbo.. and you got T3/T4 ???

Hell.. I was thinking 1000cc

[bova17]

should have gone with the gt2871r and its a complete bolt on and could handle 350+

http://www.240sxmotoring.com/ga28gtst.html

[unbind213]

SR20DET Fully Built by Project Import
Apexi Dual N1 Exhaust
Apexi N1 Coilovers
Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft (custom)
EXEDY Stage 2 Clutch
GT2860 Turbo (with less than 1000 miles)
ARC Valve/Spark Plug Cover
HKS Internal Wastegate (used as backup from the E-01)
Apexi Intake
Megan Manifold
Greddy Intercooler
Koyo Radiator
Electric Fans (can't remember what brand)
CUSCO Strut bars
CUSCO Oil Catch
Engine Torque Damper
Blitz BOV
Blitz Access ECU
Walbro High Flow Fuel Pump
NRG Voltage Stabilizer (with battery relocated to the trunk)
Hyper Force System (ignition booster)
Greddy Turbo Elbow
1.5 LSD with 3.916 ratio (J30)

this is what came with it in the first place

[unbind213]

so would the best answer be to just go back to the old turbo? i didnt get the kit cuz of the turbo, i got it for the cast iron manifold. Would going back to the old turbo be the answer?

[unbind213]

and boost controller, Front mount intercooler, Fuel pump, and I would definitely get the cams and valve springs

I hope you have very good paying job..

how much do u think in total? btw i want it running at like 7psi so not trying to turn up to the boost

[K_style]

how much do u think in total? btw i want it running at like 7psi so not trying to turn up to the boost


If you want to run 7psi. Get the stock turbo. No point getting any mods

Do you know what HP/TQ you will get from 7psi with that size of turbo? I don't think turbo isn't going to spool at all..

besides, I doubt you could even run 7psi on T3 inlet turbo..

[K_style]

SR20DET Fully Built by Project Import
Apexi Dual N1 Exhaust
Apexi N1 Coilovers
Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft (custom)
EXEDY Stage 2 Clutch
GT2860 Turbo (with less than 1000 miles)
ARC Valve/Spark Plug Cover
HKS Internal Wastegate (used as backup from the E-01)
Apexi Intake
Megan Manifold
Greddy Intercooler
Koyo Radiator
Electric Fans (can't remember what brand)
CUSCO Strut bars
CUSCO Oil Catch
Engine Torque Damper
Blitz BOV
Blitz Access ECU
Walbro High Flow Fuel Pump
NRG Voltage Stabilizer (with battery relocated to the trunk)
Hyper Force System (ignition booster)
Greddy Turbo Elbow
1.5 LSD with 3.916 ratio (J30)

this is what came with it in the first place

That clutch has got to go. it only handles 290tq I know it because I have same thing
and external wastegate

[!Zar!]

This thread is like beyond hope.

When people say that a turbo is BOLT-ON, they mean it literally bolts on to the stock components.

It does NOT mean that it can be bolted on and run that way.

Oh yeah, and most Blitz blow off valves suck.

That's probably the source of your stalling.

[unbind213]

Okay so, so far I need a new clutch, maf, fuel injector, and ecu computer, or will the blitz ecu be sufficient? Just correct me if I need other shit.
also probably going to fix it slowly, so going to get parts every week or two weeks or so any help in which order would be appreciated as well

[unbind213]

This thread is like beyond hope.

When people say that a turbo is BOLT-ON, they mean it literally bolts on to the stock components.

It does NOT mean that it can be bolted on and run that way.

cmon dude i dont know shit about cars and this was my first one, u remember when u got ur first car and no one helped u, well now theres the internet so if u can help just please help.

[K_style]

This thread is like beyond hope.

When people say that a turbo is BOLT-ON, they mean it literally bolts on to the stock components.

It does NOT mean that it can be bolted on and run that way.


I feel bad for this guy though.. I don't even think he realizes what kind of situation put him self into..

He should not have bought the car and he should not have bought the T3/T4 bolt on turbo

[K_style]

SR20DET Fully Built by Project Import
Apexi Dual N1 Exhaust
Apexi N1 Coilovers
Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft (custom)
EXEDY Stage 2 Clutch
GT2860 Turbo (with less than 1000 miles)
ARC Valve/Spark Plug Cover
HKS Internal Wastegate (used as backup from the E-01)
Apexi Intake
Megan Manifold
Greddy Intercooler
Koyo Radiator
Electric Fans (can't remember what brand)
CUSCO Strut bars
CUSCO Oil Catch
Engine Torque Damper
Blitz BOV
Blitz Access ECU
Walbro High Flow Fuel Pump
NRG Voltage Stabilizer (with battery relocated to the trunk)
Hyper Force System (ignition booster)
Greddy Turbo Elbow
1.5 LSD with 3.916 ratio (J30)

this is what came with it in the first place

You sure it came with all that ? Did you check every single item on the car?

[bova17]

run the old turbo and rebuild the head and then upgrade the turbo

[!Zar!]

He doesn't need to upgrade the head.

I hope you didn't overpay for the car you have...

Your car most likely has a ROM tune, so your best bet is to sell it, and buy either a ROM tune that is made for your setup (Enthalpy or Jim Wolf are two big names).

But your car has to have bigger injectors, z32 maf (300zx), and a tune for it, be it a standalone, piggyback, or a rom tune.

I'm not trying to rag on you, but you are diving into the deep end of car modifications before you should have.

Just read around on different threads with people that have turbo problems, or are upgrading their turbo. Doesn't matter if their setup is the same as your, eventually you'll start understanding everything as you take it in.

[bova17]

do RESEARCH im 16 and know more about cars then anybody in my school, i can literally pull my engine and rebuild it

[!Zar!]

If you don't upgrade your setup you will need those skills.

[unbind213]

aight last question, how much u think the grand total is going to be for it to be 100%? Im going to come up on money probably and itll be sitting in the garage till then. Just can u give me a rough estimate for just the parts not labor, itll be a great help and an end to this farce

[towlie]

Add up everything you think you'll need, then times it by two.

That figure won't even be close

[seeks14]

you need to do your homework son! Graph out the turbo u are purchasing make shure the fuel matches the amount of O2 is going in! u will run it lean putting a bigger turbo.LEAN IS MEAN!! put all the stock components back on..throw away all ur chineses parts away go with a reputable company for parts and have someone else build it for you cause obviously ur lost.

[smelly240]

you need at least a 90 deg bend in the intake pipe - and it must be 12 inches or longer...

[stunnaben]

I'm gonna help this kid out. If your car was running before you did all this I'd go back to that.

Since you want to stay top mount cause you bought all the parts you have to get the fuel and air into the engine to get it to run correctly.

You are going to need to look at the fuel side. Can my setup feed this turbo for the power level I want to attain? Bigger injectors are a must here and you may need to upgrade the fuel system if it isn't able to support the flow rate.

Now you have fuel but since you changed injectors the tune the ECU has is no good. You need either a Standalone (AEM, Nistune, Motec, Haltech, Megasquirt, etc etc) or a to have your ecu chipped if it isn't already and a new tune put on it. This isn't something you're going to be able to do yourself from the way you are talking. Take it to a shop that does these things, not some mom and pop who change parts out on fords and Chevy's all day. Now your maf that you have isn't able to read the amounts of air that turbo is going to suck through the maf, you have to get a larger maf or one that can read higher flow rates. If you go with a standalone you can run MAP and IAT sensor and get rid of the maf. Either way you need to make sure your setup includes a new way of measuring the amount of oxygen going into the engine. You take care of these things and have a shop that knows what the hell they are doing do it you will be fine.

Most guys aren't going to spoon feed you like this, EVER. Especially not on here. You don't know anything about cars and you bought one without doing any kind of research before hand and got way in over your head. You can't just throw money at the problem. You need to identify the problem and handle it accordingly.