Ignition switch problem? Running out of ideas

[Artigo]

So I've had lot's of starting issues with my 240.. (93 s13 coupe redtop sr20) at first I thought it was bad grounds, which I replaced. Then replaced several fuses/relays, still no start. Then checked wiring, everything *seemed* to be working, no start. Then I had my starter tested, and it passed, no start. So I rebuilt the starter anyway, still no start (starter is hella strong now though, so that's good.)

At this point I was running out of ideas, so I got out my multimeter and started testing wires again, started with the battery and worked my way up to the engine bay, got consistent voltage all the way through. Battery cable on the starter included. However, the ignition wire on solenoid was reading 0.0 I checked further up the connector and into the clip on the other end as well, and it's getting 0.0v. The other side of the wire/clip IS receiving power though.

So tl;dr
-everything getting power
-new starter
-grounds good
-solenoid ignition wire not getting power (black/white wire ? i think) while the wire from the same clip IS getting power (solid white I believe)

So now I'm thinking ignition switch. The cabin and everything else is getting power until I TURN THE KEY and everything shuts off (dash, HUD, etc all goes dark) until I release the key.

So am I correct in this diagnosis? I'm going to replace it anyway just eliminate it from my list.

[Tantwoforty]

Yeah that sounds like your ignition switch, I just figured this problem out on a friends girlfriends 92 integra The issue was when you turned the key from "run" to "start" (where the spring section starts) and the key was returned by the spring to the "run" position there was actually a dead spot in the switch. So i could start the car and back off the switch just enough to disengage the starter but keep it running.. then i could rev the engine a bit and quickly jolt the key backwards to a small section of switch that still worked just before it clicked back to accessory.. it took a few trys to get.
You can try to open the switch and clean the contacts, it helped ont he integra alot but it didn't solve the problem..
You can find a good one in the junkyard im sure, 2 bucks

sorry for the rant, check our this vid, you can tell its the switch becuase it shuts off the cluster lights (and ecu)
UWP-DcQJRbk

[curbhuggerrps13]

Took mine to an alarm place and they replaced the key ignition cylinder. Sounds like the same problem on my s14

[Coupe>Hatch]

My s13 literally just did this. YES it was the ignition switch. It's a $30 part and is held on my 1 screw. Takes literally like 2 minutes to replace.
Fix it.

[Artigo]

Cool really appreciate the help guys. This is has been a problem for me for a while so hopefully this solves it.

[eLektro]

Cool really appreciate the help guys. This is has been a problem for me for a while so hopefully this solves it.

Me too! I just replaced all my grounds on my RB25 and it's having the same symptoms as you described. I turn the key to on and i can hear the clicking sound from the starter but nothing happens.

Here is a good write-up.
S14 Ingnition Switch Replacement Write-Up. : 240sx General Discussion (http://forums.nicoclub.com/s14-ingnition-switch-replacement-write-up-t367209.html)

I thought getting a new ignition switch would result in me having to change the key as well?

[blktopsr20]

haha it must be the month of ignition switch issue. Mines is the same way, and I'm about to bite the bullet to replace the whole thing with the keys. I already tried a new electric ignition and the darn key will not crank it. Only when its taken apart, then it cranks.

[eLektro]

haha it must be the month of ignition switch issue. Mines is the same way, and I'm about to bite the bullet to replace the whole thing with the keys. I already tried a new electric ignition and the darn key will not crank it. Only when its taken apart, then it cranks.

So if i get a new ignition switch (like in the link i posted) will i need to replace the key for the ignition, so i would have 2 keys? 1 for the doors and the other for the ignition? lol

[blktopsr20]

So if i get a new ignition switch (like in the link i posted) will i need to replace the key for the ignition, so i would have 2 keys? 1 for the doors and the other for the ignition? lol


yes if you buy the whole ignition assembly, it comes with new keys. If you don't like that idea then you can also do an ignition pust start button. Kinda cheaper alternative i guess.

[eLektro]

yes if you buy the whole ignition assembly, it comes with new keys.

For $45, seems pretty cheap.

[Tantwoforty]

know what i just remembered, my s13 is doing this RIGHT NOW.. its the month

[niscur29]

You are gettin confused. The ignition switch is about 30-45 bucks is small like a stack of 10-15 quarters goes on the left side of the steering wheel has 5 thicks wires running out of it to the white plug under the dash. It attaches with 1 little ass screw behind the height adjuster and works with your existing ignition cylinder/keys.

A new switch/cylinder/keys assembly costs about $100 bucks and replaces everything. It's not needed and a waste if all you need is the switch. You have to remove the tamper proof nuts on that hold the old one on to remove and put new ones on.

These prices are from places like rockauto etc and not oem.

[alwyzDTF]

I have a similar issue where once the car is running my windshield wipers, digital clock in HUD, electric fans which are wired to the red ignition wire on the back of my deck AND my deck all shut off. maybe 1 out of 20 times when I turn the ignition over to running position it all works for maybe 2 minutes and then shuts off again.

I've been getting told its my ignition switch but I dont understand why it works sometimes and doesnt work majority of the time.

Ive been doing a ton of research on it, any advice or help would be appreciated. Its a 96 with a blacktop sr and all my grounds are good, fuses are good too.