its been beaten to death! E- fan help please

[driftitlikeyouownit]

ok so this is my first post on here so don't yell at me too much if i have gone to the wrong threads :picardfp:

so i need some help with the fans to understand what this guy did to wire them up because right now i don't understand when their supposed to come on. i have an attachment of the pick where all the wires are at the 12v relay but im confused as to how to hook it up to where the fans don't run constantly ....done that :facepalm:

if you look there's two red wires one is the battery which in the pick should be the left one and the right goes under the dash by the clutch im guessing running into the ignition some how? (there's another attachment of that)
now he has the ground like it should be and all wires hooked up on the fan shroud btw the green wire runs up to the dual fans ( flex a lite) if you need more info ask and i shall produce any help on this is apreciated.

[KiLLeR2001]

Read up on how Bosch relays work. It looks like the wire that goes to ignition needs to go on your [86]. Your [85] is already grounded to the chassis which is good. The positive battery wire needs to go on the [87] and the wire to the fans would go on the [30]. Make sure there is a 30A fuse in-line with the positive battery wire going to the relay.

[driftitlikeyouownit]

here is where the + wire runs into the battery from there into the relay directly so your saying i need to place a 30a before it runs into the relay?

[KiLLeR2001]

Yes, that is correct.

[omgRWDgoodness!]

I don't know why some people make this E-fan wiring seem so complicated, especially on those confusing ass write-ups. I cut the pigtail off my stock condenser fan and used those four wires (black, blue, green, and yellow) to power my 2 Mishimoto fans as pushers and it works just fine, with the added bonus of being an OEM-style connection. No need for any lame-ass switches or controllers and none of this splicing into the fuel pump or ignition or god-knows-what relay.

[driftitlikeyouownit]

ok so all set and .....not running and yes i warmed it up and drove it around. checked all my connections to fan and to relay ....how would i run a switch to the fans to just turn them on at will? instead of the ignition and i checked that too just in case ....

EDIT: its not that im trying to make it hard by far ive done a lot of electrical wiring to my house all over since the old man who had it before me used old extension cords @[email protected]! but i just want to get it right the first time. if i cant do something by myself ill gladly look like a noob to get it fixed working right.

[Chaluska]

basically, run a wire from a switched power wire.. (IE turn the key to the on position, power is applied to X wire) to the relay, and attach a switch inbetween that wire.

id much rather have it run off of a coolant temp sensor.. the DIF fan controller is a GREAT option for those with money

[Sileighty_85]

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/180SX/E-FanSchematic-1.jpg

[surfpac]

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/180SX/E-FanSchematic.jpg

This will make the fans run all the time when ignition is on. Is this what you really want? When you're just cruising on highway and during startup you're putting a drain on your electrical system when wired this way.

[surfpac]

BTW, what is this for S13 or S14. SR motor or stock KA?

[Sileighty_85]

This will make the fans run all the time when ignition is on. Is this what you really want? When you're just cruising on highway and during startup you're putting a drain on your electrical system when wired this way.

I drove this setup for 4 years when I DD'd mine, until i recently swapped to a DIF controller. Never had an issue, Voltage was a steady 13.4V, also depends on the Fans as well

BTW, what is this for S13 or S14. SR motor or stock KA?

Why does that matter? Same engines. both have same Temp range.

[copmagnet]

This will make the fans run all the time when ignition is on. Is this what you really want? When you're just cruising on highway and during startup you're putting a drain on your electrical system when wired this way.

So put a toggle switch inline on the ignition signal wire. Easy enough. AND, as well as fusing that main power wire, fuse the ignition wire too. As close to where you get the signal as possible. If you shorted that wire through the firewall or under the hood, you'd blow your main ignition fuse instead of just the fan's fuse otherwise.

[Sileighty_85]

So put a toggle switch inline on the ignition signal wire. Easy enough. AND, as well as fusing that main power wire, fuse the ignition wire too. As close to where you get the signal as possible. If you shorted that wire through the firewall or under the hood, you'd blow your main ignition fuse instead of just the fan's fuse otherwise.

I knew i forgot something, Correct there should be some fuses in between the battery and the relay

Fixed Now*

[HIGHFIVEBETA]

sileighty85 awesome diagram. minus forgeting the fuse lol.

to the OP that is one horrible wiring job :(

[surfpac]

I drove this setup for 4 years when I DD'd mine, until i recently swapped to a DIF controller. Never had an issue, Voltage was a steady 13.4V, also depends on the Fans as well



Why does that matter? Same engines. both have same Temp range.


Many guys run with their fans on constantly. It is still pulling amps from your electrical system. Some fans pull massive amounts of current when run at full speed (i.e. Taurus fans, some Audi fans). My voltage is at 14.3 even when fans are on, but initially there is a slight voltage drop on startup. I'm running Quest 125A upgrade but my Audi fans right now is wired for full speed (for now, gonna do dual speed).


S13 KA's have a temp switch on bottom radiator hose that turns on condenser fan. Problem with that is, the switch on point is over 200F, and that is a little too high for my comfort. S14's KA have a built in temp switch (dual actually) that is controlled by the ECU. "RWDGoodness" is correct when he says you could run your fans this way but only if you have the S14 KA ecu controlling it, so he was probably running an S14 KA. I don't know what temps they turn on low speed and high speed but that is set by factory. RWD SR's don't have this provision in the ECU, hence they use a fan clutch. FWD is a different story as they're transverse mounted and have the run dual electric fans, so those have the ECU's control the fans.

BTW, yes an inline switch will work, no problem, but you have to manually turn it on. Those fancy DIF fan controllers will work as they're basically an adjustable temp switch but I believe they have PWM circuitry. I'm using a simple digital cooling/heating temp adjustable switch I got from an industrial refrigeration application. I've been using this for over 8 years with no issues at all. Only problem is I had to plumb in a thermocoupler in the top hose of radiator. I'm going with another controller that has 2 outputs (so 2 independent set points) so I'll have low and high speed. That is the way I want it but to each his own, as long as you don't overheat your motor. I do recommend a manual inline switch that turns on the fans in the event the controller or sensor fails!

[orion::S14]

So put a toggle switch inline on the ignition signal wire. Easy enough. . .

I'd suggest not putting a switch into one of the wires that's running +12v...e.specially if you're running it into the cabin, through the firewall.

If you need to add a switch, add it to pin #85...the ground.

That way, if it ever fails (wires gets rubbed through, or something like that)...no sparks.

- Brian

[surfpac]

I'd suggest not putting a switch into one of the wires that's running +12v...e.specially if you're running it into the cabin, through the firewall.

If you need to add a switch, add it to pin #85...the ground.

That way, if it ever fails (wires gets rubbed through, or something like that)...no sparks.

- Brian

Yes, that's a given. Send ground to relay via toggle switch mounted in cabin. Sorry, should have clarified in previous post.

[driftitlikeyouownit]

just got back to everyone's post and yes mine now run all the time ..unless i pull the fuse out. basically i was frustrated so i took a drive and went to the parts stores and found a part at car quest that is a fuse connector with a fuse outlet so i just took the red wire in the cabin off the dead wire that the kid put on and hooked up the part to the wire and viola now i have instant fans on start up right now ( ode to 40$ parts) till i want to get a controller or switch. BTW the fans are running through the windshield wiper fuse.

ill take pics soon ...( tomorrow)

also i am thinking of pulling the fuse out and letting the car warm up normally and then shutting it off and plug it back in. yes it is a pain but i take time for my baby to warm up fully.

[Sileighty_85]

Many guys run with their fans on constantly. It is still pulling amps from your electrical system. Some fans pull massive amounts of current when run at full speed (i.e. Taurus fans, some Audi fans). My voltage is at 14.3 even when fans are on, but initially there is a slight voltage drop on startup. I'm running Quest 125A upgrade but my Audi fans right now is wired for full speed (for now, gonna do dual speed).

Ok... Cool?


S13 KA's have a temp switch on bottom radiator hose that turns on condenser fan. Problem with that is, the switch on point is over 200F, and that is a little too high for my comfort. S14's KA have a built in temp switch (dual actually) that is controlled by the ECU. "RWDGoodness" is correct when he says you could run your fans this way but only if you have the S14 KA ecu controlling it, so he was probably running an S14 KA. I don't know what temps they turn on low speed and high speed but that is set by factory. RWD SR's don't have this provision in the ECU, hence they use a fan clutch. FWD is a different story as they're transverse mounted and have the run dual electric fans, so those have the ECU's control the fans.



Yes im aware of that, and in my perspective its not a great idea to run dual high Amp fans (25-30) through a system that was only designed for like 15 amp single fan.

Unless you were to use that system as a trigger for the relay. Still wouldnt trust it though, Id rather use a stand alone fan controller. But thats just me.




OP buy a DIF Controller, It will make your life alot easier

[upsdude]

I don't know why some people make this E-fan wiring seem so complicated, especially on those confusing ass write-ups. I cut the pigtail off my stock condenser fan and used those four wires (black, blue, green, and yellow) to power my 2 Mishimoto fans as pushers and it works just fine, with the added bonus of being an OEM-style connection. No need for any lame-ass switches or controllers and none of this splicing into the fuel pump or ignition or god-knows-what relay.


did the same thing and the fans work grreeaaat