RB25 for drifting...any specific parts?

[Luvs2slide]

Not sure if this is the write section or not, so if necessary mods please move.

This isn't one of those what are the benefit threads, how to do it, etc.

I basically want to know what is recommended for this motorset to be good for drifting in. I hear they have problems (more than an SR) with oil starvation from the head and what not.

Curious if there's any guys out there that have any words of wisdom, or any suggestions like installing certain parts to make this is a suitable motor sideways.

[Sileighty_85]

crank collar and upgrading the oil drain system from the head to the oil pan

[Freddy]

crank collar and upgrading the oil drain system from the head to the oil pan

hey can you elaborate on upgrading the oil drain system trying to research this. can you point me in the right direction.

[redline racer510]

At higher rpm's (extended long revs 6k+) the rb series engine is known to have oil build-up in the head causing you to have less then safe oil levels in your oil pan causing you to suck air intermittently or worst no oil at all for a long period of time. Experienced rb tuners alleviate this problem by adding a second oil drain from the head to the oil pan by drilling into the plug on the back of the head. Another issue that commonly occurs at high rpm's is the crank snout that the oil pump rides on to slip. In this situation a number of problems may arise the more common being loss of oil pressure or the complete failure of the oil pump(crank not able to spin oil pump).In both cases engine failure is likely. If your serious about drifting preventative maintenance is key. If your thinking about installing a crank collar it may be in your best interest to add forged rods/pistons to the list. In my personal rb I am installing a oil cooler and electronic switch controlled accusump setup this gives me about a minute of oiling in the case of oil surge occurring and time to shut off the engine if oil pressure drops below a safe level. My advice is to do your own research and figure out what suites you best. BTW there are some good threads about this topic if you google search

[xnissan240sx]

would it be the worst this to daily drive my car and drift it on the odd weekend at the track without those parts? I am planning on doing a full rebuild next year when i goto school. I have always had that question in the back of my head

[Coolwhip]

Our S13 RB25 drift car at the shop runs 400whp all day long on a modest oil system and stock long block. It's daily driven and hits the track for every local event. N1 oil pump, custom Raw Brokerage catch can setup. The mentioned mods above are all valid and are recommended (treat it like your insurance policy for your engine)... I always suggest buy the best oil pump you can afford and work from there.

Given on our RB26 350Z we have a -12AN oil drain from the head, extended oil sump, restrictors in the block, upgraded oil pump, deburred galleys.

[xnissan240sx]

So I should be fine without the collar and drifting it. I have an n1 oil pump and oem water pump.

[rbs14kouki]

Just dont hit the rev limiter to much !!!!! And your N1 pump / stock collar will survive

[Coolwhip]

So I should be fine without the collar and drifting it. I have an n1 oil pump and oem water pump.

Inspect your components. No need to tear apart your motor for a crank collar when pushing mild numbers. If your crank collar seems to be suffering some damage then I would suggest pulling the motor apart and saving yourself the trouble with it popping your motor later on the track..

[Fullboost TM]

Also get some Tomei Oil gallery Orifice's, they're cheap too.

[redline racer510]

Also get some Tomei Oil gallery Orifice's, they're cheap too.
Our rb25 engines have hydraulic lash adjusters aka hydraulic lifters, there is a likely hood of collapsing a lifter causing the valves to not open and close properly due to insufficent oil pressure. Rb26's on the other hand have solid lifters and less oil pressure dependent valvetrain components. The tomei insert may help with oil build up but not on its own, it would need to supplement other things that I mentioned above. The tomei insert was intended for the rb26 because of what I mentioned above and also because of the higher rev limit causing the engine to empty out the oil pan and fill up the head a lot quicker than say an rb25.

BTW, coolwhip can you elaborate on your track cars catch can setup?

[Coolwhip]

Our rb25 engines have hydraulic lash adjusters aka hydraulic lifters, there is a likely hood of collapsing a lifter causing the valves to not open and close properly due to insufficent oil pressure. Rb26's on the other hand have solid lifters and less oil pressure dependent valvetrain components. The tomei insert may help with oil build up but not on its own, it would need to supplement other things that I mentioned above. The tomei insert was intended for the rb26 because of what I mentioned above and also because of the higher rev limit causing the engine to empty out the oil pan and fill up the head a lot quicker than say an rb25.

BTW, coolwhip can you elaborate on your track cars catch can setup?


Redline is correct regarding the hydraulic lifters in the RB25 and the restrictors having an adverse effect on their performance. You'll want to focus on returning the oil to the sump rather than restricting it to the head. This is done by external returns.

Here is a picture without the motor installed, I'll get a picture tomorrow when I head to the shop. Final details won't be released until we have a complete kit to offer but you can imagin the other line coming from the other heater hose port going to the valve covers of the motor and the PCV blocked off the side of the intake rocker cover...
http://i52.tinypic.com/24fjv3l.jpg


I did write a review awhile back regarding the catch can setups for a RB...
How to: Set up your PCV, Catch Can, Breather, Vacuum system on your RB... : RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum (http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-set-up-your-pcv-catch-can-breather-vacuum-system-on-your-rb-t403897.html)

Here are some examples of how you may setup your PCV, Catch Can, Breather Can, Vacuum, etc system:

http://i55.tinypic.com/30wbj7o.jpg

Cliff Notes:
* Crank case must vent pressure that accumulates in the engine.

* Either venting through a breather filter, catch can with breather filter, intake manifold, intake pipe, or exhaust.

* Best results are found when the crank case is experiencing vacuum.

* Vacuum sources generally used are intake manifold and intake leading into the turbo.

* If using the intake manifold as a vacuum source one must use a 1 way check valve to prevent the crank case from being pressurized when under boost. (read: pcv)

* If using the intake pipe leading into the turbo for vacuum, source must be after the MAF (if equipped).

* If using the exhaust pipe exiting the turbo for vacuum, 1 way check valves must be used to prevent exhaust gas circulating back into the crank case.

* If venting the valve cover either through a breather filter or catch can with breather filter(s), the factory PCV valve and intake port must be blocked off preventing those sources from sucking in unmetered air. (read: vacuum leak)

* Plumbing can be made of various materials. If near high levels of heat, use protective/heat reflective material or hoses that can sustain heat. (read: do not have the plastic PVC hose near exhaust)

*Catch cans can be made out of various materials or completed units purchased from various manufacturers.

* Catch cans with internal baffling, steel wool, etc. have found beneficial in removing oil from vented vapor.

* Baffles can also be adapted inside the valve covers of the RB25 and upgraded on the RB26.

This system is as important as anything else to provide optimal performance and reliability. Providing a proper ring and valve seal. This system mentioned above is primarily focused on wet sump oil system RB's which differs when dealing with dry sump'd RB motors (which I will cover in another thread).

Hope this helps you guys out.