jbahu
03-27-2011, 11:55 AM
Ok, I just finished replacing the head gasket on my '95 240 KA24de.
I had little to no compression (40 lbs) the two middle cylinders and about 80 the 1 and 4. I had never worked on this engine before, but had been working on cars a long time (since 1966, not that that would help necessarily!!).
When I pulled it apart there was some indication of a leak between 2 and 3
The machine shop had to take off 0.010" to fix the warp. Is that a lot for this engine?.
So I put it all back together following the FSM procedures (I hope). I had to use torque wrench instead of angle wrench.
Here is the problem, I still have no compression (about 40 lbs) on all cylinders! I tried some oil in #2 to test the rings, no change. By the way the cylinders had no ridge and the honing marks were still very visible in all cylinders. I made an assumption about the rings due to the conditions, but I guess that could be wrong.
Also, I tried to be very meticulous about installing the sprockets for the timing chains. I did not remove the front bottom cover, just the top. And I made sure the marks were aligned. (again, I am hoping I screwed up something simple, so I can fix it!). I had to have the top front cover machined to match the amount taken off the head, so it would fit. It did fit just fine.
Could this shaving of the head screwed up the valve timing somehow? excuse my babbling, but I am not understanding what is happening. These seem to be pretty simple well designed (except for that needing to bleed the water system, please!) engines.
Maybe the valve timing is 180 degrees out? The cams went back in the exact same position and the engine did not turn over at all during the replacement.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
I also guess it could be possible the compression rings were fried when the engine got hot, does that make sense as a possibility??
I had little to no compression (40 lbs) the two middle cylinders and about 80 the 1 and 4. I had never worked on this engine before, but had been working on cars a long time (since 1966, not that that would help necessarily!!).
When I pulled it apart there was some indication of a leak between 2 and 3
The machine shop had to take off 0.010" to fix the warp. Is that a lot for this engine?.
So I put it all back together following the FSM procedures (I hope). I had to use torque wrench instead of angle wrench.
Here is the problem, I still have no compression (about 40 lbs) on all cylinders! I tried some oil in #2 to test the rings, no change. By the way the cylinders had no ridge and the honing marks were still very visible in all cylinders. I made an assumption about the rings due to the conditions, but I guess that could be wrong.
Also, I tried to be very meticulous about installing the sprockets for the timing chains. I did not remove the front bottom cover, just the top. And I made sure the marks were aligned. (again, I am hoping I screwed up something simple, so I can fix it!). I had to have the top front cover machined to match the amount taken off the head, so it would fit. It did fit just fine.
Could this shaving of the head screwed up the valve timing somehow? excuse my babbling, but I am not understanding what is happening. These seem to be pretty simple well designed (except for that needing to bleed the water system, please!) engines.
Maybe the valve timing is 180 degrees out? The cams went back in the exact same position and the engine did not turn over at all during the replacement.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
I also guess it could be possible the compression rings were fried when the engine got hot, does that make sense as a possibility??