Rb25DET random stalling HELP!!!!

[Mi BEAN]

Ok I need help figuring this problem out. I have searched and cleaned the MAF with cleaner and the air filter out as well. Please keep in mind that my cluster's Tach does not work.

Here is my problem:

While driving, the car will run fine. Out of no where it will begin to lose RPM and die out. Ill roll to a stop and wait a minute and turn the car back on. It will start back up then die right away. All the clusters lights come on and I begin to wait again. I then try to turn the car on and it starts and runs at idle just fine. I try to put it into gear and let off the clutch and it dies out on me again. I really need help figuring it out. I would take it to a shop but I have to go through 2 tunnels and am afriad it will die in the tunnel.

I have noticed a small fuel leak on the line above the fuel rail but i tighten it and no more leak. I think the senor below it got messed up but not sure what the senor is. Here is a picture of the senor. It has a red tab on it and the line above it was tighten.

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad52/ADTobos/IMAG0212.jpg

I looked around the bay and noticed a few others lines missing but not sure if its ok not to have them.

This canister has a DIST VC line (hooked up), Fuel tank line(hooked up), and a Purge line which is NOT hooked up. Does this need to be connected to anything? Here is a picture of the canister.

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad52/ADTobos/IMAG0213.jpg

There is another fitting that looks like an air line or vac line located on the right side of the engine bay right infront of the wheel well. You can see its ver small right above the MAF. It has two openings for line but nothing hooked up to it.

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad52/ADTobos/IMAG0214.jpg



PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT! Thanks

[Sileighty_85]

Thats Sensor Is for the NVCS (Nissan V-Tec), Wont affect Idle

The black canister is the charcole canister, It can be removed not really needed, just unplug everything and throw it away, (Do not plug the line that comes from under the chassis) its the Fuel tank breather.

the solenoid next to the MAFS is the stock boost controller for the RB.

Check for Vacuum Leaks and check your spark plugs and make sure they are gapped properly around .028in

Id replace that rusty ass bolt that on the IM and replace it with a cleaner one for the grounds

[Mi BEAN]

So I can literally take those lines off and folow them back and remove them and get rid of the canister? Im going to check the spark plugs out tomorrow and see whats up. ill post tomorrow with results. Thanks

[Sileighty_85]

So I can literally take those lines off and folow them back and remove them and get rid of the canister?

Youp, cap anylines that come from the engine just not from the chassis

[Mi BEAN]

Alright I did a compression test and here are the results

1) 150
2) 150
3) 150
4) 150
5) 145
6) 135

Im worried about the #6. I looked for limits for the but no luck. I checked the spark plugs and all where good. They did have slight black sut on them but all the gaps were good and no build up. I did find a crack on the hose that runs across the covers and replaced it. Replaced the silcone couplings on the intercooler that were cracked. After replacing all that it ran fine for a while then stalled on me. Im looking for a cluster for it now so I can see the RPMs on it. I also found the shop that did the swap and they are sending me all the paperwork on it.

I bought new fuel lines and going to replace them tomorrow. I will also replace that rusty screw as well tomorrow. just ran out of day light.

Thats Sensor Is for the NVCS (Nissan V-Tec), Wont affect Idle

Can it go bad tho with fuel dripping on it? It was covered before i wiped it down. how would I go about checking if it works still or atleast properly?


the solenoid next to the MAFS is the stock boost controller for the RB.

There are no lines running from that selenoid at all. I just dont get why they would install that from the RB into the 240? and then not hook it up. It looks like its the stock mounts from a 240 on it.

[Sileighty_85]

I bought new fuel lines and going to replace them tomorrow. I will also replace that rusty screw as well tomorrow. just ran out of day light.


Can it go bad tho with fuel dripping on it? It was covered before i wiped it down. how would I go about checking if it works still or atleast properly?




There are no lines running from that selenoid at all. I just dont get why they would install that from the RB into the 240? and then not hook it up. It looks like its the stock mounts from a 240 on it.


I dont think the Solenoid will go bad.

you talking about the silver rectangular thing?

thats for the Automatic Transmission that was installed i the car.
If its no longer an Automatic you can remove it.

[eklips3]

those are some pretty low numbers on your 6th cylinder for compression. the limit is 120psi.

but your problem could be a foulty fuel pump if your car is stalling out the the blue and then you can start it up after a while.

[Mi BEAN]

I dont think the Solenoid will go bad.

you talking about the silver rectangular thing?

thats for the Automatic Transmission that was installed i the car.
If its no longer an Automatic you can remove it.

Yeah the silver box that that is right below the solenoid with a red plug is the one Im talking about. The stock 240 was an auto but not a 5 speed.


those are some pretty low numbers on your 6th cylinder for compression. the limit is 120psi.

but your problem could be a foulty fuel pump if your car is stalling out the the blue and then you can start it up after a while.

Yeah I got worried about the compression but couldnt find the limits for one online. Does anyone have a site where I can get specs like that online? Ill check the fuel pump today and see whats up. I just hope that guy replaced or upgraded the stock 240 pump.

[Mi BEAN]

After reading about MAF problems. I went to my car and started it and unplugged the MAF and it continued to run. About 4 hours later I swapped out my friends MAF and it cause my car to stall. Went back to my MAF and it stalled my car. Think my MAF is bad??

[Boostin240sx]

Check your MAF wiring. It does sound like a MAF issue.

You mentioned about driving through two tunnels to get to a shop, are you on the peninsula or southside?

[Mi BEAN]

I stay out in suffolk. There one tunnel in either direction so it all about praying the whole ride. I'm thinking of taking it to remey built next week

[Sileighty_85]

What MAFS are you running and whats the P/N on the ECU so I can tell you if you have the correct MAFS for the ECU

Judging by the MAFS plug you should have a Series 1 using a J60 MAFS?

[Mi BEAN]

What MAFS are you running and whats the P/N on the ECU so I can tell you if you have the correct MAFS for the ECU

Judging by the MAFS plug you should have a Series 1 using a J60 MAFS?

Yes its a J60 green tag. I have a greddy e-manage system. Im thinking either the MAF is going in and out causing the stalls or something to do with the MAF wiring. Right now Im looking for a j60 MAF to swap it out with but they are hard to come by.

[Sileighty_85]

is there a need for the E-Manage? Does it have bigger injectors or bigger turbo? Doesnt look like it from the pics

if its pretty much stock I would pull the EManage out and get it running stock first

[Mi BEAN]

I looked real quick but how do you check a MAF? I seen you can check with a multimeter.

The emanage came with the car. I traded for this car so im still in the precess of figuring out what all this guy did. He was pretty clueless and just paid money for a shop to do it all. My buddy has the same set up and it looks like stock injectors. do i just pull them and check??

[Sileighty_85]

Well when checking the wires
You should have
Wire A - Not Connected
Wire B - Signal (check when pluged in and key to ON) should be a low voltage like 5V
Wire C - 12v Ground
Wire D - Signal Ground
Wire E - 12v Power

Im willing to bet the Problem lies with the E-Manage wiring

[Boostin240sx]

I stay out in suffolk. There one tunnel in either direction so it all about praying the whole ride. I'm thinking of taking it to remey built next week

Oh okay, I'm in Hampton. If you were on my side I'd take a look at it or tell you to take it to Tidewater Z.

Well when checking the wires
You should have
Wire A - Not Connected
Wire B - Signal (check when pluged in and key to ON) should be a low voltage like 5V
Wire C - 12v Ground
Wire D - Signal Ground
Wire E - 12v Power

Im willing to bet the Problem lies with the E-Manage wiring


Either that or the settings the Emanage is set to but I bet the problem lies in there.

What shop did he take it to that used radiator hose for I/C couplings?

[Mi BEAN]

Ive heard about them once at tidewater Z.

He had the swap done at RPM in richmond. If you go to their site they have the swap on there page. Im in the process of getting measurements to get all new couplings for the IC