ka24det help

[S13 nOOb]

I'll start by saying I have searched all over the net and read other forums but nothing has solved the issue. I finally got my ka up and running but now i'm having a problem. When the motor is cold, it idles steady around 900 rpm without out sputtering or anything. But as the motor warms up, it cuts idle and has no power above 1700 rpm. I had someone check the tps and he claimed it was fine, I tried adjusting the throttle but still didn't help. I even tried setting the idle via iac screw but nothing. And i'm certain I have no vac leaks.

Anyone have suggestions on anything I could have missed?

[xxoreolovexx]

hows your timing? check that. It also sounds like a boost leak to me though, or timing related.

[2d-ink]

do you have a leak in your intercooler piping? what about your blow off valve, that could also be leaking...

[S13 nOOb]

i asked a guy locally and he said that if my base timing was fine before the install, that it should be fine, especially since i haven't done anything to change the timing. i thought i may have to retard the timing, but as noobish as it sounds, idk anything about adjusting the subject.

and i checked for leaks and i can't find any. i made sure when i installed the bov and the smic that i didn't have any lines confused using a diagram to be sure i used vac sources.

the guy that helped me throughout most of the process had to cut the little egr tube that connected to the upper part of the header and he just capped the tube. could that be the problem and the motor just be choking on itself? i didn't get to go work on the car thanks to all the race traffic. (I live 5min away from Bristol Motor Speedway)

[xxoreolovexx]

Well if you didn't touch the timing it should be fine. That tube and all that egr emissions bullshit has got to go though. Get a egr block off plate and remove all that unnecessary crap. I would say boost leak probably. Do a compression check also.

[S13 nOOb]

Well if you didn't touch the timing it should be fine. That tube and all that egr emissions bullshit has got to go though. Get a egr block off plate and remove all that unnecessary crap. I would say boost leak probably. Do a compression check also.

when i bought the car, compression was good on all cylinders. i can't remember the exact numbers, but i wouldn't have done a turbo install if anything like that was wrong. the motor has approx 125K. there wasn't one thing wrong with the ka before i put the turbo on. i checked it today and it idled rough, but steady at 1K. i checked all hoses and i do not have any leaks anywhere that i could tell. it does have a small exhaust leak at the manifold due to the sucky gasket the manifold came with. i should have the egr blocked off by next week hopefully.

[4-20sx]

it probably is a boost leak.

is your ecu tuned for your current setup?
your maf in working order?

[S13 nOOb]

it probably is a boost leak.

is your ecu tuned for your current setup?
your maf in working order?

the guy i bought the ecu and maf from said it was. i'll have to pull the turbo out to fix the exhaust leak anyways so i'll just recheck all the lines to it. i checked all my vac connections and stuff and nothing was leaking that i could feel.

[xxoreolovexx]

what injectors are you using? You may have a leaking o ring somewhere. Start it up and pull the injector clips one by one and listen for changes in idle.

[Boostin240sx]

Sounds like boost leak or bad/ not tuned for MAF.

Leaking Injector could be a possibility but would sound rough idle.

[S13 nOOb]

According to the guy I bought em from, the ecu was tuned for 370cc injector, T25 turbo and n60 maf. Everything idles fine, its when I attempt to drive that it all goes nuts. I've got a new pump and filter and new o-rings on the injectors. I was curious if the ecu was tuned right and I haven't gotten to test the maf. And I have no idea where the boost leak would be unless the turbo is bad.

[4-20sx]

could be your ECU isnt tuned for the correct MAF.

maybe he went it was for a n62?
try switching out the mafs.

[xxoreolovexx]

does it only run rough under load? can you rev it in neutral?

[S13 nOOb]

could be your ECU isnt tuned for the correct MAF.

maybe he went it was for a n62?
try switching out the mafs.

the ecu has written on it that it was tuned for n60 maf. the guy i had work on the car with me wired the maf using a diagram i found on here. but he tied the two ground wires together, then wired another ground into those and the ground off the factory maf ground. could that be the problem?

does it only run rough under load? can you rev it in neutral?

yes, i can rev the car fine in neutral when its running fine but once i'm through first gear, it won't hold rpm and loses power at and above 1700 rpm.

[xxoreolovexx]

re-wire that maf man. what i did for both my n60 and now n62 maf: 2 center wires tie together and soldering to ground wire on the harness. Pin B goes to your signal which is the white wire on your harness and pin E is your 12v wire which is black with white stripe on your stock harness.

[4-20sx]

^^^ try what he did.

[S13 nOOb]

re-wire that maf man. what i did for both my n60 and now n62 maf: 2 center wires tie together and soldering to ground wire on the harness. Pin B goes to your signal which is the white wire on your harness and pin E is your 12v wire which is black with white stripe on your stock harness.

I plan to try this after classes today, but my question is this.. is that the correct way to wire it? i read on the diagram off here (wish i could find it) and on a couple other forums that wiring the two grounds together would cause the maf to not work properly and that "C" would need to be grounded to the chassis. though idk the best way to route that wire safely...

just curious but i'll try your way for sure.

found the link to what i went by: http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45494&highlight=n60+maf

[xxoreolovexx]

You can try it either way. I have always grounded them together.

[S13 nOOb]

Ok so I spent all yesterday evening working on all the wiring, blocking off tthe egr valve and going over any lines I thought might be leaking and nothing helped. I rewired the maf and it improved nothing. So I would assume either its flat out bad or the enthalpy ecu I bought isn't tuned properly. Could there be anything I may have missed?

[S13 nOOb]

i know it's been over a month but i don't see a reason to repost..

i went through everything, even rechipped the enthalpy ecu. i pulled my plugs again to be sure i was getting spark and noticed plugs 2 and 4 had oil on the bottoms. so i pulled all plugs, replaced with new bkr7e plugs and even replaced the spark plug and valve cover gaskets. now the car won't crank. i didn't mess with any timing and the car started before i took the cover off, though it still was cutting out after a certain rpm, which lead me to the plugs to begin with.

so.. i'm completely stumped now. anyone know of anything i could have missed?