Rebuilding sr red top to oem specs

[Geezy]

my question is, what are the things that most people change out and upgrade when rebuilding to OEM standards?
I couldn't really find anything in the search besides "BPU upgrades"
here are some of things im looking at:
-machine shop work: (hone and decking and turning the crank cause it spun a rod bearing)
-bearings
-rings
-front/rear main seals
-water pump
-aftermarket head gasket (what brand is suggested? i heard cosworth was good for the price)

i was wondering would it absolutely be necessary to replace the oil pump/housing?
what do i look for to see if its bad or on its last leg?

and is ARP hardware really needed for a minor build? (250whp-300whp DD)

[nissansrdub]

i wanna get my sr rebuilt as well. i was thinking hone, pistons, rings, rod bearings, thrust washers, main bearings and oil pump. all parts brand new oem for under $600. if you know of cheaper please share. lol

heres the website i found it on............... The Nismo Shop :: West Covina Nissan (http://www.thenismoshop.com)

good luck. oh and i was told by a machine shop that if the crank needs to be "grounded" i think thats what he said. which is machined it would also need some type of chemical hardened treatment. $150 for machine and $300 for treatment :( sounds kinda week. i think i caught my spun bearing soon enough to just have to get the crank polished...$45!!! hahahah

good luck

[Geezy]

That's where I was lookin at to get my parts from too. I haven't contacted any shops yet cause I wanna see other peoples suggestions and not from a shop tryin to sell me. You know

[xeemersil80]

I am in a long process of rebuilding my sr20 red top to oem specs as well. i had my head re-surfaced from Ron's machine shop here in fresno, also got the crank balanced, and the block pressured tested. I was going to order my bearing set from The Nismo Shop at West Covina Nissan. I ordered my full gasket from there and was debating if i wanted to order my main, rod, and thrust bearing from there too. I later found out that Ron's machine shop sells the bearing kits for $87 after tax. West Covina nissan was like $90 something before tax. I had a friend who has rebuilt sr20 before told me that if im just keeping it oem specs i should just stay with the oem head gasket and save my self a few bucks since im not going to be boosting it much since it will just be my daily driven. The oem gasket should hold up the stock boost unless you plan on going more than stock boost.

I also plan to replace the timing chain guide since it looks bad. That might be something you should look at too. Oh and yes the ARP head bolts definitely worth it. Sorry, i dont think my post was helpful..

Xeem Moua

[boyou2]

you have to resurface the head,and perhaps,and sometimes,the bloc.

After that only,you can buy the MLS HG

new water pump
new oil pump
bearings (main and rods)
clean everything
a full engine gasket kit (OEM if possible,it's the best quality)

for the rest of the parts (head bolts,crank bolts,if OEMs are in a good shape (see SDS in the FSM) you can keep them.

Check the valve clearance if you can.

That's it for me ;)

[Luvs2slide]

I have seen stock headgaskets last all the way up to 1.1 bar. At the moment I am boost 1 bar on mine.

Good idea to replace the timing chain, and bearings if your rebuilding.

If its your DD just get all OEM parts.

If you plan to upgrade, thats when you should start upgrading the rest.

^^ yes, as long as your pistons/rods are in tolerance per fsm, theres no need to replace them. Just clean them and lube properly.

[S14_drift junkE]

contact andrew at 9K Racing. rebuilding mine right now. you WONT be disappointed. [email protected]

[Geezy]

lol is it really "safe" to run that much daily boost on a stock HG??

the motor im rebuilding was a good running swap that had a "slight" rod knock, which was immediately shut off and then disassembled. i have yet to inspect the internals myself, but assuming that the spun rod journal didn't annihilate that bearing, i should be able to just take the block and crank in for a simple clean up and light machining.

would a good machine shop be able to select the bearings for me? or would they have to be experienced with the SR?

ARP: head, main, and rod bolts required? since the OEM are torque to yield, would they be so far stretched not be reused?

[herbieS13]

as long as everything is not damaged all you'll need is piston rings, bearings, water pump oil pump, timing chain adn everything that goes along with that, polish the crank, get everything honed/deck ect ect, to save your self some money just take the crank block and head into a machine shop have them do the honing, and polishing and whatever else. buy a ring compressor and do everything else yourself its really simple and will save you some $$ on labor costs

edit:: get arp headstuds and a metal headgasket its cheap insurance

[DoriftoPnoy]

I've daily'd at 14lbs easy. I even turn it up to 20 whenever I pleased and a stock headgasket handles that no problemo. What it won't handle is 30+ if you forget to hook up your boost controller to the wastegate...

[Geezy]

its been a minute. my computer was down. but finally tore apart that SR block last week. and as suspected by who i bought it from, it was piston number 2 with the rod knock. the bearing itself is fairly scorched, but as far as the journal goes, it doesn't look too bad. i think i might be able to get away with just polishing the crank, but i will get it measured to check if that journal is tapered or out of round.