Dry cell batteries

[Matej]

Hello everyone,
Until now I have been using some unlabeled military dry cell battery that I do not know anything about, but now it is done for.
I am looking into new dry cell batteries, but I do not know much about them, so I would greatly appreciate any input.


So far, these are the batteries I am considering:

Shuriken BT20
The appeal of this battery is that it is cheap and thin. It also has a cheesy picture on it. It should have 850 Cranking Amps, but I have been unable to find out how many Cold Cranking Amps it has, since it is meant to be an audio battery. That is why I am not sure if the Cranking Amps are rated differently, and if it would be alright to use.

Westco Battery
Here is the one I am looking at - Westco Battery (http://www.phase2motortrend.com/wemihipeba.html). It has impressive 'performance,' but I am not sure if it is actually a dry cell battery, or just a better regular battery. If so, I want a dry cell battery, since it would sit behind the passenger seat. It is also bulkier and heavier than the other two.

Odyssey PC680
Odyssey batteries are supposed to be good. I know some people run the PC680 in their 240SX. However, it only has 220 Cold Cranking Amps, and I read Zilvia threads in which some say they would not recommend it for a KA/SR. Also, I have heard that there are knockoffs out there, and since I would most likely be purchasing it off Ebay, I would be worried I got a fake.


Please feel free to name any other suggestions, and thank you ahead for any information. :)

[Sileighty_85]

I got a Odyssey PC680 in my 98, Cranks My RB25 over without a problem

[daftphunk]

I run that Westco Battery. I am not 100% sure if it is a Dry Cell battery myself, but it has no free liquid in there because it is sealed. And to my understanding, the dry cell batteries are sealed.. Haha, I would love to know for sure!

Anyways, battery is great, cranks my car over every morning in ~30 degree weather.

[KiLLeR2001]

I'm using the Odyssey PC680 with SR20DET without issue. Although when I brake I notice my whole electrical system will dim for a second. Not sure if thats battery related or what but sometimes I get the feeling that the battery isn't enough.... maybe I'm crazy. :|

The Braille B2015 is about the same size and offers 425 CCA. Think I might eventually go that route.

[mxexux]

I'm also interested in possibly buying a battery soon. So far from the little research I've done, Braille has my vote. You should check them out:

Braille Battery USA &nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp Lighter • Stronger • Faster (http://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/)

They have quite a big selection and some of them are decently priced. Very light as well. Someone should chime in on their actual experience with them though...

[C-unit]

^ I am looking at the braille battery as well. Their price is cheaper than odyssey as well. I've seen couple Canadian guys running it but I would like to hear some first hand experience!

[hulkster_s13]

I'm using the Odyssey PC680 with SR20DET without issue. Although when I brake I notice my whole electrical system will dim for a second. Not sure if thats battery related or what but sometimes I get the feeling that the battery isn't enough.... maybe I'm crazy. :|

The Braille B2015 is about the same size and offers 425 CCA. Think I might eventually go that route.

I've got the 680 also, when my dual FAL comes on all my electrical dims too. Mine only lasts a week if I don't start it during that time. Maybe I got a short somewhere

[94_240sx]

I want to know this too. I want 15lb battery that'll work well and long with my s13.

[KiLLeR2001]

I've got the 680 also, when my dual FAL comes on all my electrical dims too. Mine only lasts a week if I don't start it during that time. Maybe I got a short somewhere

Yeah, when my altima fans kick on my electrical dims and my car seems to idle a little bit rougher... The voltage still reads around 13.75V at the battery when the car is running though.

[Matej]

Thanks for the Braille suggestion. The B14115 is tempting, with 360 Cold Cranking Amps, at 11.5 lbs.

The manual states that the cold cranking current is 356A (for a '91-94 240SX). Is that all that matters, or should I also be looking at the Cranking Amps at 32°F, and 'regular' (Pulse?) Cranking Amps? If so, what are the recommended minimums for those?

[codyace]

I'm using the Odyssey PC680 with SR20DET without issue. Although when I brake I notice my whole electrical system will dim for a second. Not sure if thats battery related or what but sometimes I get the feeling that the battery isn't enough.... maybe I'm crazy. :|

The Braille B2015 is about the same size and offers 425 CCA. Think I might eventually go that route.

I've got the 680 also, when my dual FAL comes on all my electrical dims too. Mine only lasts a week if I don't start it during that time. Maybe I got a short somewhere

Yeah, when my altima fans kick on my electrical dims and my car seems to idle a little bit rougher... The voltage still reads around 13.75V at the battery when the car is running though.



The problem with our cars is that the stock alternator is not capable of supporting much more than factory stuff. Sure some may see 'ok' readings at idle, but the problem really shows it's face when you increase the RPM's.

Remember the battery has ZERO difference when the car is running, only when starting. When the car runs, it's the alternators job.

With that said, the best way to cure that problem is the look into a Quest 115 or 125 amp alternator kit, that I make and sell. If you're intersted, send me a PM about them. I also have a group buy page for more info: http://zilvia.net/f/group-buys/350045-quest-alternator-upgrade-bolt-bracket-sr20-owners-40amp-upgrade-over-stock.html

[codyace]

Thanks for the Braille suggestion. The B14115 is tempting, with 360 Cold Cranking Amps, at 11.5 lbs.

The manual states that the cold cranking current is 356A (for a '91-94 240SX). Is that all that matters, or should I also be looking at the Cranking Amps at 32°F, and 'regular' (Pulse?) Cranking Amps? If so, what are the recommended minimums for those?

Instead of looking at Braille, don't forget to look for DEKA batteries. Never heard of them? That's because they are a manufacturing plant that actually makes many of the 'common' after market batteries, and then they get restickered as Brand X Y Z when they are all Deka made.


I've run an Deka ETX14 Battery now since going SR. I love it. Not a ton of cranking amps, but if your system doesn't have a large draw its' more than fine.

[KiLLeR2001]

The problem with our cars is that the stock alternator is not capable of supporting much more than factory stuff. Sure some may see 'ok' readings at idle, but the problem really shows it's face when you increase the RPM's.

Remember the battery has ZERO difference when the car is running, only when starting. When the car runs, it's the alternators job.

With that said, the best way to cure that problem is the look into a Quest 115 or 125 amp alternator kit, that I make and sell. If you're intersted, send me a PM about them. I also have a group buy page for more info: http://zilvia.net/f/group-buys/350045-quest-alternator-upgrade-bolt-bracket-sr20-owners-40amp-upgrade-over-stock.html

Definitely good information to hear. I'll probably end up going this route when my alternator starts to show signs of failure. Already had one go out on me a couple years ago.