Slow Response from petal?

[Luvs2slide]

Theres about a 1.5 sec delay from the time I press the acceleration pedal, to when my rpm needle actually moves.

Is this due to a old throttle cable? I already tried adjusting it so that the cable is tight on the throttle body.

ANyone have any input?

[chiboy002]

old sensor?

[anton1o]

Well is there a 1.5s delay to when the engine actually revs tho?

Imagine you dont have an RPM gauge at all, if you press the pedal does it instantly rev or it has a 1.5sec delay aswell, this would determine where the fault may actually really be.

[Luvs2slide]

Old sensor? What do you mean?

Yes. anton1o. Yes, there's a 1.5 sec delay when it actually revs. Forgot to mention that.

Any ideas?

[Weedm]

is your car an auto?

[s14slideshow]

probably badly timed and hesitates before revving.

[Luvs2slide]

Car is a manual. Timing is perfect. Please dont comment if you're just guessing. Only hesistates on start up and not after warmup.

[nismoman]

if you can replicate this by going out to the engine a opening the throttle manually then you know its not the cable. if it doesnt then yeah its the cable. did you chech the slack inside at the pedal?

[240sx123$]

Only hesistates on start up and not after warmup.


Coolant temperature sensor is bad. Replace it and report back. They cost like a dollar.

[chiboy002]

Old sensor? What do you mean?

Yes. anton1o. Yes, there's a 1.5 sec delay when it actually revs. Forgot to mention that.

Any ideas?
nevermind, i thought you meant the tachometer had a delay and not the motor itself... my bad

Only hesistates on start up and not after warmup.
why would you want to rev your car before its warmed up? That's causing damage

[RedSiBaron]

Coolant temperature sensor is bad. Replace it and report back. They cost like a dollar.

Good info, ill have to remember this

[cotbu]

Are we not from the same planet? Logically the answer would be TPS!
yes the answer is not always the logical or obvious but just guessing and shit is stupid.

I would test in this order: Check ecu for codes, Check and adjust tps voltage(open and closed). Then verify and adjust timing.

If by then, the correct results were not produced, I would start looking at other possible problem areas.

Also does it kind of break up before the rev? like there's carb cleaner, etc in there. Anyway my educated guess is TPS.

[240sx123$]

Im telling you, its the coolant temperature sensor. The CTS reads how warm the engine is- the ECU makes significant adjustments to the air fuel ratio when the engine is warming up. Warm up fuel maps are very different from fuel maps for operating temperature, and the only way the ECU can tell the difference is with that sensor. The CTS tells the ECU when the engine is warm. If the problem is occurring only when the car is warm, chances are because the CTS is not working properly, making the car run as if its warmed up when it is still cold. If the ECU is thinking that the car is warm when it is actually cold, it wont be giving the proper amounts of fuel and air, and will cause the car to run shitty. This can also happen the other way around- with the car running well when its cold, but running poorly when its warm. In either case, the culprit is usually the coolant temp sensor.

Throttle Position Sensor wouldnt explain why it does it when the engine is cold, but not once warmed up. That is the exact symptom of a bad CTS.

[cotbu]

In correct it wouldn't matter if it was hot or cold for the tps to be the culprit.
Coolant temp sensor, has multiple errors that are visual and audible, he is not acknowledging any of them. So using deductive reasoning, its logical to say it's the tps. If the ecu has learned the value maybe not so much when warmed up.

some of the cts problems would be, rich idle, rpm fluxing, and hard to start warm or cold, and maybe a code or two.

The symptoms are not exact in anyway, we could have asked a multitude of questions to narrow down the solution, but this is zilvia! you tell us the problems we don't tell you...! OK sometimes, but whatever!

Not saying its not cts, just i wouldn't start there 1st in this situation.

[240sx123$]

I smell a gentlemen's bet... Care to make a wager on it?

Loser has to rock a "[Winners name here] is all knowing" signature for one month? :D

Hahaha

[RedSiBaron]

I smell a gentlemen's bet... Care to make a wager on it?

Loser has to rock a "[Winners name here] is all knowing" signature for one month? :D

Hahaha

Haha this is awesome...you watch you'll both end up being wrong and hell find a hamster living in his TB or some crazy shit that makes no sense

[NissanSean]

Haha this is awesome...you watch you'll both end up being wrong and hell find a hamster living in his TB or some crazy shit that makes no sense

hahaha i bet its dog food in the air filter box again. it always happends

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Old sensor? What do you mean?

Yes. anton1o. Yes, there's a 1.5 sec delay when it actually revs. Forgot to mention that.

Any ideas?

Car is a manual. Timing is perfect. Please dont comment if you're just guessing. Only hesistates on start up and not after warmup.


You ask whats wrong and people give u Ideas of what It could be, fuckin douche bag. Your the dumbass who cant get his car running right and then say dont comment If your guessing.

[RedSiBaron]

hahaha i bet its dog food in the air filter box again. it always happends

Hahaha please tell me this is something that happened here on zilvia...

[rc1honda]

Yeah it's the TPS. Not to mention we dont even know what motor we are talking about here. But i almost postive it's the TPS. The CTS really doesn't effect throttle response. It effects idle and and crusing but not throttle response. When you give the car gas it should rev.


TPS, check voltage shit take like 5 minutes. If it's less or more then .35-.45 volts at closed throttle then thats your problem. BTW this is not a guess, had the same problem with my SR. @240-123 the OP never said anything about warm or cold. And even still it would happen regardless of temp if the TPS is outta wack.

[jspaeth]

All of you are a bunch of clowns and are not necessarily right.

I have this problem, and it is NOT the TPS or the CTS.

I have done many different tests to be able to verify that it is neither.

I think it is something to do with the injectors or IACV needing to physically warm up or heat up and get "unstuck" after not having been driven a while....probably the IACV.

[rc1honda]

All of you are a bunch of clowns and are not necessarily right.

I have this problem, and it is NOT the TPS or the CTS.

I have done many different tests to be able to verify that it is neither.

I think it is something to do with the injectors or IACV needing to physically warm up or heat up and get "unstuck" after not having been driven a while....probably the IACV.

Wait your still have this problem? Meaning you don"t whats causing it after verifying proper TPS voltage and good CTS?

I mean the TPS is the most likely culprit here. He needs to take 5 minutes and throw a voltmeter on it. If not the we can hunt for the more elusive stuff. I have never seen a IAVC cause this symptom . Not saying it's not the problem but the TPS is a quick and easy check and fix

It would help to know what motor we are even talking about. I mean a big vac leak can cause this symptom.

EDIT now i see the post where he says after it warms up it stops. It could be the CTS or the IAVC i guess. Maybe try cleaning the IAVC sounds like a good idea. Maybe a seafoam treatment would help to.

[Luvs2slide]

You ask whats wrong and people give u Ideas of what It could be, fuckin douche bag. Your the dumbass who cant get his car running right and then say dont comment If your guessing.
.
Haha WOW. Seriously? Who the fuck are you again? GTFO of my thread Git. Anybody can chime in and say "I think its this, or I think it's that" without actually having my same problem. I'm not shooting people down for their comments. It just the guy who said something and I fucking quote "bad timing or hesitates before revving" WTF? C mon now. I'm not some fucking 19/21 yr old kid who doesnt know WTF he's doing.

Wait your still have this problem? Meaning you don"t whats causing it after verifying proper TPS voltage and good CTS?

I mean the TPS is the most likely culprit here. He needs to take 5 minutes and throw a voltmeter on it. If not the we can hunt for the more elusive stuff. I have never seen a IAVC cause this symptom . Not saying it's not the problem but the TPS is a quick and easy check and fix

It would help to know what motor we are even talking about. I mean a big vac leak can cause this symptom.

EDIT now i see the post where he says after it warms up it stops. It could be the CTS or the IAVC i guess. Maybe try cleaning the IAVC sounds like a good idea. Maybe a seafoam treatment would help to.

Motor is a SR20det redtop. 2871R turbine, 850 inj, PFC-D jet, cams, etc. All supporting mods.

One thing I noticed is that I really dont think my throttle body is a "GENUINE" SR20det throttle body as it looks different and never really looked into it.

Also, even when I was stock turbine and ECU my car would not have this problem. Not sure if this may be a problem but TPS is not centered on the adjustment part (bought the car this way.) Never gave me problems before all the upgraded parts went on...My tuner did point out my TPS and how it was like maxed out on the adjustment. I'll try and get some pics to show you what Im talking about.

[travisty_]

After hearing that checking the TPS sounds like a good idea, it takes a couple minutes anyway.

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

[QUOTE=Luvs2slide;3801691].
Haha WOW. Seriously? Who the fuck are you again? GTFO of my thread Git. Anybody can chime in and say "I think its this, or I think it's that" without actually having my same problem. I'm not shooting people down for their comments. It just the guy who said something and I fucking quote "bad timing or hesitates before revving" WTF? C mon now. I'm not some fucking 19/21 yr old kid who doesnt know WTF he's doing.


Hmm this Is funny you knock me for being 21 yet I would have been fixed this issue with my car. I'm 21 years old and I'm sure I can do twice as much as you, Uhh guys my revs slow what ever will I do?!? Check for vacum leaks dumbass, Check you Idle air control valve.

[Luvs2slide]

Hmm this Is funny you knock me for being 21 yet I would have been fixed this issue with my car. I'm 21 years old and I'm sure I can do twice as much as you, Uhh guys my revs slow what ever will I do?!? Check for vacum leaks dumbass, Check you Idle air control valve.

Shh little kid. :cry::cry:

I HIGHLY doubt that. This is much deeper than mere vac leaks. My IACV is functional.

If JSpeath (sp) has been having this SAME PROBLEM for nearly two years, its more than that thing you call a brain can think of. I'm not selling anything or buying anything so there isn't a damn thing you can contribute to my thread.

Anyways, back on topic--

[240sx123$]

Rather than arguing about the possibilities, why dont we wait for OP to test his TPS, CTS, and IACV?

Im not opposed to the idea of it being something other than the CTS and I acknowledge the reasoning behind both other diagnosis', but until the OP confirms what the problem was, any arguing is purely speculation.

If the TPS was maxed out in one direction, why not adjust it to the middle and see if that doesnt make a difference? Or check it with a voltmeter? If it were me, Id have "fiddled around" with it (for lack of a better term) just to see if I could get it to do something different.

Start with free things- test IACV, test TPS, then replace CTS.

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Shh little kid. :cry::cry:

I HIGHLY doubt that. This is much deeper than mere vac leaks. My IACV is functional.

If JSpeath (sp) has been having this SAME PROBLEM for nearly two years, its more than that thing you call a brain can think of. I'm not selling anything or buying anything so there isn't a damn thing you can contribute to my thread.

Anyways, back on topic--

If my thing I call a brain can't think of anything then what the fuck kind of brain do you have? In the end your the 28 year old who can't figure out why Is car revs slow and try to say im not some 19/21 year old kid who doesn't know shit. Your right your not, Your a 28 year old dumbass who can't figure out why his car revs slow.

Here Is a list of why It would do that Incase your little 28 year old brain can't figure It out/

Maf
Tps
Iacv
Vac leaks
cam timing off
cas timing off
wiring Issue or (grounds)

Instead of saying no Its not any of those everything Is perfect , you should just go fukin check and test. Maybe It could be one Instead of oh no my engine Is perfect but It has rev delays. There for making It not perfect and something Is wrong.

Call me a little kid but this little kid can do a hell of alot more than you can. Uhhh Im jus gonna stand here and scratch my head uhhhh, da engine revs slow duhhhhh. everything Is perfect but for some reason It doesn't rev right. Uhhhh which way did he go. Which way did he go.

Mama always said life Is like a box of chocolates.

[Luvs2slide]

If my thing I call a brain can't think of anything then what the fuck kind of brain do you have? In the end your the 28 year old who can't figure out why Is car revs slow and try to say im not some 19/21 year old kid who doesn't know shit. Your right your not, Your a 28 year old dumbass who can't figure out why his car revs slow.

Here Is a list of why It would do that Incase your little 28 year old brain can't figure It out/

Maf
Tps
Iacv
Vac leaks
cam timing off
cas timing off
wiring Issue or (grounds)

Instead of saying no Its not any of those everything Is perfect , you should just go fukin check and test. Maybe It could be one Instead of oh no my engine Is perfect but It has rev delays. There for making It not perfect and something Is wrong.

Call me a little kid but this little kid can do a hell of alot more than you can. Uhhh Im jus gonna stand here and scratch my head uhhhh, da engine revs slow duhhhhh. everything Is perfect but for some reason It doesn't rev right. Uhhhh which way did he go. Which way did he go.

Mama always said life Is like a box of chocolates.

:gives:

I Never said my engine was perfect. I'm not wasting anymore of my time with you. Its like talking to a kid. Goes in one ear, out the other.

You are adding non-resourceful bullshit to this thread and I already told you to GTFO before mods close this thread.

[rc1honda]

You and me have almost the exact same setup. A good thing is that you have a Power FC which makes checking the TPS voltage easy as pie.

Take the commander and go down the ETC. menu. The go to Sensor Check menu. You can check the TPS voltage without a voltmeter here. While in the car and watching the PFC commander press the gas petal. Closed throttle should be between .35-.45 volts. WOT should be 4.8-5.0 volts or more.

Now while still watching the PFC, press the petal all the way to the floor. The voltage should now be reading 4.8-5.0 or over on the PFC commander. If not then you have to adjust the TPS on the throttle body. Loosen the screws and slightly move it up or down. Then use the PFC commander to monitor the voltage change. I can tell the SR's are very finicky with the tps and throttle rseponse.

Also what kinda HP did you make at what boost? and what kind of dyno if don't mind me asking?

[godrifttoday]

Get a mechanic u ungrateful person! u said u are not 21 so u should be able to afford a mechanic. It seems like u are the one guessing!! I hate people like u . U try to help. and then they give u shit, like if u know. Sorry for shit threading though...

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

:gives:

I Never said my engine was perfect. I'm not wasting anymore of my time with you. Its like talking to a kid. Goes in one ear, out the other.

You are adding non-resourceful bullshit to this thread and I already told you to GTFO before mods close this thread.

From the looks of things anything Is resourceful for you right now,:newbie::trogdor:

[Luvs2slide]

You and me have almost the exact same setup. A good thing is that you have a Power FC which makes checking the TPS voltage easy as pie.

Take the commander and go down the ETC. menu. The go to Sensor Check menu. You can check the TPS voltage without a voltmeter here. While in the car and watching the PFC commander press the gas petal. Closed throttle should be between .35-.45 volts. WOT should be 4.8-5.0 volts or more.

Now while still watching the PFC, press the petal all the way to the floor. The voltage should now be reading 4.8-5.0 or over on the PFC commander. If not then you have to adjust the TPS on the throttle body. Loosen the screws and slightly move it up or down. Then use the PFC commander to monitor the voltage change. I can tell the SR's are very finicky with the tps and throttle rseponse.

Also what kinda HP did you make at what boost? and what kind of dyno if don't mind me asking?

Great info! I will definately use this easy method. Actually there are no more Dynos here on island (Okinawa). Mostly just street/butt dyno. Theres not even a legal 1/4 mile track. However, some of the fastest cars in Japan come from Okinawa...dont ask me how they do it lol.

[Luvs2slide]

Get a mechanic u ungrateful person! u said u are not 21 so u should be able to afford a mechanic. It seems like u are the one guessing!! I hate people like u . U try to help. and then they give u shit, like if u know. Sorry for shit threading though...

Ungrateful? Really? :down:

I am not ungrateful to those that offer LEGIT info. Like I mentioned before, anyone can come into this thread saying, check your MAF, check your timing, blah blah.

Alot of this shit is already done with and check/verified.

I only post a thread when I'm stumped (hence the low post count) as in this instance.

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Ungrateful? Really? :down:

I am not ungrateful to those that offer LEGIT info. Like I mentioned before, anyone can come into this thread saying, check your MAF, check your timing, blah blah.

Alot of this shit is already done with and check/verified.

I only post a thread when I'm stumped (hence the low post count) as in this instance.

If alot of It has been done then why ask a forum for help? This is a stupid ass thread. My peddle feels slow. people give u problems to why it would do that, STOP POSTING IN MY THREAD! ONLY POST IF U KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR. People are only trying to help your dumbass and then u try to knock them for age and this and that,"

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Ungrateful? Really? :down:

I am not ungrateful to those that offer LEGIT info. Like I mentioned before, anyone can come into this thread saying, check your MAF, check your timing, blah blah.

Alot of this shit is already done with and check/verified.

I only post a thread when I'm stumped (hence the low post count) as in this instance.

Yes you are right anyone can come Into the thread saying that but they are only trying to give u ideas to help you whack job.

If everything has already been tested and your so awesome and everything Is perfect. then dont ask questions.

I really do wish u never fix this problem for being such an asshole douche bag. I hope It gets even slower. 28 year old dumbass

[godrifttoday]

If alot of It has been done then why ask a forum for help? This is a stupid ass thread. My peddle feels slow. people give u problems to why it would do that, STOP POSTING IN MY THREAD! ONLY POST IF U KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR. People are only trying to help your dumbass and then u try to knock them for age and this and that,"



Thank you... Exactly...

[mattack69]

:keke: This is awesome. sorry to interupt...

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Rather than arguing about the possibilities, why dont we wait for OP to test his TPS, CTS, and IACV?

Im not opposed to the idea of it being something other than the CTS and I acknowledge the reasoning behind both other diagnosis', but until the OP confirms what the problem was, any arguing is purely speculation.

If the TPS was maxed out in one direction, why not adjust it to the middle and see if that doesnt make a difference? Or check it with a voltmeter? If it were me, Id have "fiddled around" with it (for lack of a better term) just to see if I could get it to do something different.

Start with free things- test IACV, test TPS, then replace CTS.


We would have loved that but he's too much of a dumbass to comprehend what we are telling him. He keeps saying everything is perfectly amazing.

[Luvs2slide]

We would have loved that but he's too much of a dumbass to comprehend what we are telling him. He keeps saying everything is perfectly amazing.

STFU up already geezous.

Oh by the way, timing is good, TPS is good. Although my TPS was maxed out, my PFC read 0.45V throttle closed and 4V fully open. Just to be sure I swapped it out with 2 others I had and both would not even go above 4.1V...and my TB is a confirmed SRdet one.

I remember someone saying fully open should be 4.8-5V? FSM states approx 4V...

guess all left is the CTS to check. :cj:

[jspaeth]

We would have loved that but he's too much of a dumbass to comprehend what we are telling him. He keeps saying everything is perfectly amazing.

I understand your sentiments, but in this case, you need to just give it up man.

The list of things you said COULD be the issue is in no way comprehensive.

It is only a list of the most likely issues.

The fact the problem goes away when the car warms up rules out the TPS, which you have been pushing for so hard.


Settle down.

[cotbu]

How about getting the car warmed up and disconnecting the coolant temp sensor?
You think the outcome would be different?
I know with my software I can tell the ecu, in active test mode what the temperature is and it will respond to that condition. PFC not so advanced? lol.
Why is it taking so long to eliminate both CTS and TPS anyway?

[Luvs2slide]

TPS has already been confirmed good.

CTS is good b/c my readings from PFC commander match up to what my Defi guage reads +/- 2 degrees...unless theres another function the CTS performs?

Timing has been confirmed by re-stabbing CAS and checking timing with a gun.

going to change out my plugs/coilpacks this weekend. Putting in Irway iridiums and Splitfires, see what that does...

[ixfxi]

its like a retard festival here


the problem is your car....... its a piece of shit.


solution? change it for one that isnt a piece of shit.

[sr20s13abel]

this is simple.. u need FINE TUNING.. when u run big cams such as 272. u always get that delay when the car is warming up... i had the same problem on my 500hp sr20det... i just let it warm up and it doest bother me..

[Luvs2slide]

this is simple.. u need FINE TUNING.. when u run big cams such as 272. u always get that delay when the car is warming up... i had the same problem on my 500hp sr20det... i just let it warm up and it doest bother me..

cams are 256, not 272. The idle is not "loping." Idle is very stable. I will try and pull the CTS plug and see what that does.

My low end might be just stupid rich or something. However, theres never any smoke.

[Luvs2slide]

its like a retard festival here


the problem is your car....... its a piece of shit.


solution? change it for one that isnt a piece of shit.

FUck Off:cj:

[jspaeth]

TPS has already been confirmed good.

CTS is good b/c my readings from PFC commander match up to what my Defi guage reads +/- 2 degrees...unless theres another function the CTS performs?

Timing has been confirmed by re-stabbing CAS and checking timing with a gun.

going to change out my plugs/coilpacks this weekend. Putting in Irway iridiums and Splitfires, see what that does...


I think that the IACV has it's own internal coolant temp sensor that is used to control high idle during startup, right? (why else would coolant be run to the IACV???).

Anyway, I am wondering if on your car (and mine), that sensor is semi-shot and causes suckiness...

[cotbu]

I've run with no IACV coolant lines and the symptoms OP/TS describes did not occur.
I've tuned multiple setups over the summer, so i figured I'd leave those lines looped and during summer months there was no difference in idle or throttle response.
As soon as the weather changed, I could not idle for shit. It would go through the normal process of warming and idling, then once at operating temp it would idle at 1500rpm or higher, max 1800rpm. I could only drop it about 300rpm.
I've only blipped the throttled during the high idle rpm, it responded normal.

I knew exactly what the problem was, so i ran coolant lines immediately! And even though my first attempt was leaking it idled correctly. It happened around thanksgiving this year.
Along with my other, annual 240sx problems like, Auto seat belt failure, and driver side auto window failure. Last year it was also headlights, but not this year! FIXED HEADLIGHTS FOR THE WIN!

Then again every car, cannot respond the same to every situation, tune, diagnosis etc. That would make it too easy.

[jspaeth]

I've run with no IACV coolant lines and the symptoms OP/TS describes did not occur.
I've tuned multiple setups over the summer, so i figured I'd leave those lines looped and during summer months there was no difference in idle or throttle response.
As soon as the weather changed, I could not idle for shit. It would go through the normal process of warming and idling, then once at operating temp it would idle at 1500rpm or higher, max 1800rpm. I could only drop it about 300rpm.
I've only blipped the throttled during the high idle rpm, it responded normal.

I knew exactly what the problem was, so i ran coolant lines immediately! And even though my first attempt was leaking it idled correctly. It happened around thanksgiving this year.
Along with my other, annual 240sx problems like, Auto seat belt failure, and driver side auto window failure. Last year it was also headlights, but not this year! FIXED HEADLIGHTS FOR THE WIN!

Then again every car, cannot respond the same to every situation, tune, diagnosis etc. That would make it too easy.

So you are saying that although you did NOT see the same problems as the OP, on a side note, NOT hooking up the IACV coolant lines preventing you from idling well in the cold, correct?

[cotbu]

What am I really trying to say? Hmmmmmmm, is that there are common symptoms for part failures. The common symptom for not having the coolant lines hooked up to the IACV is the high idle, that of which is uncontrollable in cold weather. (correct)

I also made a comment about annual, yearly problems, related to my 240sx. Of which i noticed other members having.