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View Full Version : Help! my vac is at 5 on my boost gauge at idle on my SR!!!


Fender Defender
11-22-2010, 09:00 PM
I have sr20det with my vac at 5 on idle when I'm looking on my boost gauge. My car idles fine and everything. My idle is at 800. It drives fine. Except for the exhaust leaks. I tightened all my couplings today and hoses. My bov T's however are not tightened using a clamp but that wouldnt make me lose so much vac. Can it be my intercooler, bov? Also my fpr doesnt seem to be getting any vac at idle is it supposed to? Like when i press on it theres no vac pressure. I have power fc L detro btw. Engine doesnt sound like before sounds more taptaptaptaptap from under the car which i know are from the exhaust leaks. Iono if I have a built motor cus I never opened it to check lol.

here's a pic of the setup.
I seperated the lines by colors. the green is for the fpr. The red is for bov.

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac171/chogunna91/car.jpg

heres a pic of the current setup. All the boost shizz and bov lines were redone by sidewayspfmce as pictured.

nismolvr
11-22-2010, 09:07 PM
check timing

Fender Defender
11-22-2010, 09:37 PM
wheres the timing supposed to be at? mines at 15 at idle

blksylv
11-22-2010, 09:41 PM
how bad r ur exhaust leaks?

Fender Defender
11-22-2010, 09:52 PM
they are decent. Iono they told me that i had a crack on my exhaust manifold but visually theres none and sounds like theres none. the sound seems to be coming from under after downpipe around cat area

nismolvr
11-22-2010, 09:59 PM
did some one mess around and adjust your throttle stop screw settings?sounds to me like the trottle plate is too closed and does not allow correct vacuum reading ,check to make sure vacuum gauge hose are not pluged up .Try to measure manifold vacuum from brake booster hose if you can. by the way timing supposed to be checked with engine warm normal op temp your engine should be idling around 850rpm with TPS disconnected.Stock factory timing is at 15 degrees, which is the 2nd to last mark on the crank pulley.

Fender Defender
11-22-2010, 10:06 PM
Whats throttle screw settings u mean Iacv screw? uhh not that I know of but Spencer did it once to test out my car and gun it it ran great. Oh yeh thats true about the screw he screwed it in almost all the way in the way it was when i first got the motor. I can actually check timing using my Apexi power fc controller. its at 15 degrees on idle. Yeh my idles is just on there atg 850. So should I retard the ignition a little and adjust my iacv to match up to 850 and compesate for my vac? How will I measure the manifold from brake booster? Thanks alot for the info btw!

nismolvr
11-22-2010, 10:22 PM
Whats throttle screw settings u mean Iacv screw? uhh not that I know of but Spencer did it once to test out my car and gun it it ran great. Oh yeh thats true about the screw he screwed it in almost all the way in the way it was when i first got the motor. I can actually check timing using my Apexi power fc controller. its at 15 degrees on idle. Yeh my idles is just on there atg 850. So should I retard the ignition a little and adjust my iacv to match up to 850 and compesate for my vac? How will I measure the manifold from brake booster? Thanks alot for the info btw!
IAC is not what im talking about,although you will have to re adjust it if my suspicion is right.im talking about your throttle plate screw ,if you look closely there is a tiny machined screw and its set at factory. If some one closed it too much it could interfere with correct vacuum redings ,it means the Throttle valve needs to be adjusted slighly to allow small orifice to read vaccum at idle.Open it in small incraments untill you see vacuum rise to 18 ,then you might have to back down IAC, lastly check your TPS settings at idle, you should be able to through your power FC controller.

Fender Defender
11-22-2010, 10:40 PM
Okay forsure about the throttle plate screw. I'll take a look at that tommorow morning. Also one more question instead of teeing the line that goes to the bov and wastegateac(red) can i take the t off where it connect to the wastegate n make it go straight to the bov, and then add another line to the closed nipple under the throttle opening and connect it to the wastegate?

Fender Defender
11-22-2010, 10:49 PM
like this http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac171/chogunna91/dq4c.jpg the yellow line

nismolvr
11-22-2010, 10:59 PM
Okay forsure about the throttle plate screw. I'll take a look at that tommorow morning. Also one more question instead of teeing the line that goes to the bov and wastegateac(red) can i take the t off where it connect to the wastegate n make it go straight to the bov, and then add another line to the closed nipple under the throttle opening and connect it to the wastegate?
WTH! I just saw your picture and drawing.Never connect vacuum to Waste gate! Waste gate needs positive pressure from Hot side of turbo piping (hot pipe , you need to weld a nipple on it) its there to protect your engine , when you over boost , pressure in the Inter cooler piping pushes diaphragm and spring tension and opens waste gate and prevents you from over boost.Run your BOV and vacuum/boost gauge from same source and DO NOT CONNECT WASTE GATE . Run hose from hot pipe to waste gate only. Fix that first.

KiLLeR2001
11-22-2010, 11:22 PM
Connections that need to be made:

- Throttle body to BOV
- Throttle body to FPR
- Hotpipe source to wastegate

Might also want to invest in a catch can.

Fender Defender
11-22-2010, 11:25 PM
okie doke!! Wait but isn't that one on the bottom boost??? let me redo this real quick and put it up. I'm already in the way of buying one since im upgrading my turbo this week to t28 dual ball bearing.

okay here it is!
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac171/chogunna91/fdkjfa.jpg

nismolvr
11-23-2010, 08:50 AM
okie doke!! Wait but isn't that one on the bottom boost??? let me redo this real quick and put it up. I'm already in the way of buying one since im upgrading my turbo this week to t28 dual ball bearing.

okay here it is!
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac171/chogunna91/fdkjfa.jpg
that looks about right, FPR is hooked up alone with nothing else , boost/vacuum gauge is "T ed" with BOV. bottom source is pluged.route your vacuum like this and check manifold vacuum if still low,check throttle plate as I stated earlier. also install catch can ,or your going to fill intercooler with oil and sludge.But that can wait.

Fender Defender
11-23-2010, 11:21 AM
Just redid my bov and white smoke came out of exhaust for a second then went away... hmm...

Fender Defender
11-23-2010, 06:38 PM
whats that white smoke that came out of my exhaust???? it only did it once for like a second and it never did it afterwards after i redid my vacuum lines

nismolvr
11-23-2010, 06:48 PM
whats that white smoke that came out of my exhaust???? it only did it once for like a second and it never did it afterwards after i redid my vacuum linesIf the exhaust billows white smoke for a few seconds when first starting the engine after it has been sitting for a while, such as overnight, and then runs normally, it could mean that the rubber valve stem seals have perished .
whats your vacuum reading now?

Fender Defender
11-23-2010, 07:05 PM
Wait WHAT!!?? is a valve stem :(?? My vacuum is good now. Its just the stupid smoke -__- and my motor is not tuned just running on enthalpys base tune and it sounds crappy like it has a slight misfire every few seconds but a small one, and then when i press on the gas slowly on idle all the way to 5k rpm and release it starts misfiring and backfire popping sounds out of my exhaust. Plus with my exhaust leaks my motor sounds stupid.. Its not smoking at all anymore it only did it in the morning after the rain. Like I revved up to 4k rpm and released and smoke came out, then went away and never came back

nismolvr
11-23-2010, 07:17 PM
Wait WHAT!!?? is a valve stem :(?? My vacuum is good now. Its just the stupid smoke -__- and my motor is not tuned just running on enthalpys base tune and it sounds crappy like it has a slight misfire every few seconds but a small one, and then when i press on the gas slowly on idle all the way to 5k rpm and release it starts misfiring and backfire popping sounds out of my exhaust. Plus with my exhaust leaks my motor sounds stupid.. Its not smoking at all anymore it only did it in the morning after the rain. Like I revved up to 4k rpm and released and smoke came out, then went away and never came backcould be valve stem SEALS.You need a catch can. Pressure is building in your crank case oil and sludge is being directly charged back into your Valve cover "T" and continues to turbo and piping intake , bet you inter cooler has oil in it.Bet also oil is leaking into coil packs causing missfire. Pull your plugs and inspect for oil. bet there getting soaked causing your missfire. Also your BOV is not recirculated causing your engine to Run Rich when you lift off gas. theres your backfire.

Fender Defender
11-23-2010, 07:24 PM
There was no oil whatsoever in the sparkplugs cus i just checked like 40 minutes ago after i got home. I do need a catch can and I also need my bov recirculated too thanks for all the info. I'll get it done asap.

blueshark123
11-23-2010, 07:32 PM
Wait WHAT!!?? is a valve stem :(?? My vacuum is good now. Its just the stupid smoke -__- and my motor is not tuned just running on enthalpys base tune and it sounds crappy like it has a slight misfire every few seconds but a small one, and then when i press on the gas slowly on idle all the way to 5k rpm and release it starts misfiring and backfire popping sounds out of my exhaust. Plus with my exhaust leaks my motor sounds stupid.. Its not smoking at all anymore it only did it in the morning after the rain. Like I revved up to 4k rpm and released and smoke came out, then went away and never came back

it was water in ur exhaust from the rain

Fender Defender
11-23-2010, 10:00 PM
okie doke thanks! I guess now all i need to do is to fix that exhaust leak, get the oil catch can and up grade my turbo and injectors then tune.