rb20 stalling out

[slidesquad240]

ok heres the deal guys i have a rb20 swapped s13 with very light mods only engine mod is the rb25 turbon problem is when the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator is connected my car will eventually stall out when hitting the brakes when stoppin after i drive for say 5to 10 minutes. so i was told i had a bad fpr so i went with the nismo adjustable, put it on adjusted the pressure properly and hooked up the vac line..guess what same thing is happening? car doesnt stall with the vac line disconnected idle sounds a little higher tho. checked the check valve that turned out ok so i unplugged the line of the brake booster and car didnt stall out stoppin was a bitch so my question is do i have a bad brake booster thats causing this?to me it doesnt sound like it but thats why im writing this if any one can point me in the right direction i would very much appreciate it please help a guy whos still learning about these cars out thanks alot mike

[slidesquad240]

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[240ez]

I have an RB20 and ive considered getting an fpr cause mine runs rich.
This should help you out.


Fuel Pressure Regulator - Stage II (Installation)


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19dB4UQuFI/AAAAAAAAAL4/xUykotGYSj4/s320/IMG_2460.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19dB4UQuFI/AAAAAAAAAL4/xUykotGYSj4/s1600-h/IMG_2460.JPG)
Return Fuel Regulator

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19e2oUQuGI/AAAAAAAAAMA/kpvicAhXx10/s320/07-12-07_0831.jpg (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19e2oUQuGI/AAAAAAAAAMA/kpvicAhXx10/s1600-h/07-12-07_0831.jpg)
Intake Fuel Regulator

Now we come to the installation stage. Above photos you can see for RB20DET motor, there are 2 standard little fuel regulators which for the intake and return fuel. This adjustable fuel regulator will replace the intake one. Who need high pressure for the return fuel line rite? We only need high and adjustable high pressure for the intake of the fuel line.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19cRIUQuEI/AAAAAAAAALw/cgK4ly-41TE/s320/IMG_2463.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19cRIUQuEI/AAAAAAAAALw/cgK4ly-41TE/s1600-h/IMG_2463.JPG)
Completed Sard pressure regulatar with meter and intake in and out screw hose. Don't forget to used the plumbing white tape before screwing the meter and hose screws to avoid fuel leakages.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19gP4UQuHI/AAAAAAAAAMI/E8jW-wSRah4/s320/IMG_2464.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19gP4UQuHI/AAAAAAAAAMI/E8jW-wSRah4/s1600-h/IMG_2464.JPG)
Remove the standard fuel presure by unscrew 2 screws. Be carefully with the fuel spitting out which still available inside the fuel rail.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19h7IUQuII/AAAAAAAAAMQ/912qmLQtUe8/s320/IMG_2465.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19h7IUQuII/AAAAAAAAAMQ/912qmLQtUe8/s1600-h/IMG_2465.JPG)
This is the standard fuel regulator, after removed it from the fuel rail braket. Check the O ring. You have to use back the standard O ring together with custom adapter.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19j8oUQuJI/AAAAAAAAAMY/54evd4ncufo/s320/IMG_2467.JPG (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19j8oUQuJI/AAAAAAAAAMY/54evd4ncufo/s1600-h/IMG_2467.JPG)
Fuel rail adapter installed together with the O ring. Screw it . The aerospeed adapter need to modified abit at the screw holes.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19nXIUQuLI/AAAAAAAAAMo/88AcjWqSwBo/s320/IMG_2472.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19nXIUQuLI/AAAAAAAAAMo/88AcjWqSwBo/s1600-h/IMG_2472.JPG)
Fitt in the fuel and the vacum hose.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19ld4UQuKI/AAAAAAAAAMg/WNCn6koCITw/s320/IMG_2470.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19ld4UQuKI/AAAAAAAAAMg/WNCn6koCITw/s1600-h/IMG_2470.JPG)
The final set-up.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19n54UQuMI/AAAAAAAAAMw/VjWfPdXw4iY/s320/IMG_2473.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R19n54UQuMI/AAAAAAAAAMw/VjWfPdXw4iY/s1600-h/IMG_2473.JPG)
First time start the engine without modified the pressure screw, you can see the engine, suck almost 60 PSI of fuel. Then set to optimum level for your need, for my case with standard snail 30PSI should be ok. Any comment?
Test drive the car, WOW, there huge different in term of pickup and no more jerking when taking corner in gear 2, No jerking at all hahahaha. Good investment, recomend to you guys.
One of the thing that bothering us is that, how to distinguish between the original Sard and the Taiwan made one? One of the tip that my friends gave to me, physically it same but you can differenciate between original and fake one by: After install, start your engine and make sure no fuel/vacum leaking. Then turn off the engine, the original one will show no drop in pressure but the fake/Taiwan one will give u 0 psi.
But bear in mind that please consult experince mechanic/technician for this installation. This involved fuel line which is dangerous if not install properly. These write up is my experince to share with you guys and I not resposible for anything bad happens after this.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R1961oUQuNI/AAAAAAAAAM4/vwPn5LxWgFM/s320/IMG_2474.JPG (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YJFXezG0Lps/R1961oUQuNI/AAAAAAAAAM4/vwPn5LxWgFM/s1600-h/IMG_2474.JPG)
Hahahaha this is my friend engine bay, RB25DET with AR50 hahahaha small snail there, need a bigger one. But very nice piping workmanship.

Posted by Lan at 7:54 PM (http://lanz-cars.blogspot.com/2007/12/fuel-pressure-regulator-stage-ii.html) http://img1.blogblog.com/img/icon18_email.gif (http://www.blogger.com/email-post.g?blogID=506848769514151838&postID=7777984385793287811)



Test drive it and if you still have trouble braking then you could have a bad brake booster.
(http://www.blogger.com/email-post.g?blogID=506848769514151838&postID=7777984385793287811)

[slidesquad240]

thnaks bro but i have a nismo fpr and this is happening stalling out?

[g35gabby]

Given that the car runs better with vac lines unhooked, it sounds like it is not inducing enough or creating enough vaccuum.

I would guess you have an issues with timing

[slidesquad240]

timing? that would cause a vaccum isssue? how could i check if the timings correct

[g35gabby]

I had the exact same issue with my CA when the mechanical timing was off.

Reset the belt and all issues went away. pull the front timing cover and check to very that the belt is aligned properly and the timing marks match up to their corresponding points with the motor set to TDC.

Is this swap new to you? is it the first time it has run? or is this a new issue to something that ran fine in the past?

[slidesquad240]

no swap isnt new and this has been a problem since i had the motor. even if the timing was off wouldnt there still be vaccum? this also only does it after i have been drivng for say 10 minutes?

[slidesquad240]

could this also be from a short in the wiring i also have a problem when the headlights are on my brake lights are on at the same time not sure if this is related or not

[GenPac]

I had the same issue when I unplugged my AAC Valve just to see how the engine would react. Soon as it was warm, it wouldn't recover to idle when coming to a stop. Just my experience.

[slidesquad240]

so what was the problem with your car

[eklips3]

if your mechanical timing is off then it would definatley effect your vacuum. if you stop and think about it , your timing is off , so your valves wont close when they are supposed to thus not causing not enough air to be sucked in by your pistons ( if that makes any sense ) .

on my buddys car his timing slipped by 2 teeth and his vacuum wouldnt go below -10psi. but he never had the problem with it stalling out when driving.

but nonetheless check your timing , check for vacuum leaks, pull some codes from your ecu and get back to us.

[slidesquad240]

word im def gonnna check the timing it makes sense now that i look at it that way thanks!

[my750]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but im just curious if you ever found the solution to this problem? my rb20 swapped 240 is doing the exact same thing.