ecu tuning

[sr20boi]

i want to send my ecu to get tuned to my mods.. Does anybody know a good place i can send it to, to get this done and how much it will run me? Thanks in advance for the input!

[MADE]

Factory Nissan ECU?

Standalone?

What mods have you done that rate a tune?

What car /engine do you have.

[sr20boi]

yes it is..

[sr20boi]

yes it is the factory one..
what do you mean by "standalone"?
fmic-pullies-full exhaust- almost basically almost all stock but i want to get everything i can out of what i have lol
a sr20det redtop on s13 240sx hatch.
thanks for help

[bkuhl]

you're fine with just the #62 ECU...you don't need a tune

[sr20boi]

so i should just keep it the way it is? and not do anything. i want to get to get a maf but idk what kind i should get.. any ideas?

[dwadia]

Well, like bkuhl said, you don't need a tune but it certainly wouldn't hurt. It may or may not be worth it, that is ultimately your decision... you'll pick up some hp and should feel a noticable difference. Check with Enthalpy (R.S. Enthalpy: Nissan ROM Tunes, ECU Reflashes and Dyno Tuning. Tampa Bay, Florida. (http://www.rs-enthalpy.com/)) - they are some of the most reputable for tuning SR's. I believe the initial tune is somewhere around $400-500 ($150 to make changes thereafter for future mods). JWT is also well-known but from what i've heard they make less power than enthalpy (more conservative tune), and i think they also charge more. I just had mine tuned by enthalpy :boink:good luck!

BTW as i was typing this i saw you were asking about getting a MAF... you probably don't need it right now (not sure what the hp limit is for the s13 MAF, i think it's 250ish rwhp). But if you want to upgrade the MAF to allow for future mods, get a 300zx (N62) MAF and have the ecu tuned for that. If you change the MAF then you will NEED a tune. But just realize, the new MAF in itself won't give you more hp... it will simply allow your MAF to accomodate more airflow, and hence more hp.

This is sort of irrelevant but for your knowledge, "standalone" meant an aftermarket ecu that completely replaces the stock unit. That is definitely overkill and unnecessary, and a huge waste of money, in your case.

[MADE]

Man, I hate to say this but , if you search you will learn alot more, and find out what mods require a tune.

[teamsprock]

When the time comes for a tune RS Enthalpy is the only way to go in my opinion. I ran many of his Tunes all the way up to 460hp. Ran great for 5 years till I sold it and the new owner is still beating the crap out of it! Plus it runs like a stock car, but with more power. Best way to get a great tune unless you can tune yourself, and then you'll still probably make more power with the Enthalpy tune!

[bkuhl]

yes it is the factory one..
what do you mean by "standalone"?
fmic-pullies-full exhaust- almost basically almost all stock but i want to get everything i can out of what i have lol
a sr20det redtop on s13 240sx hatch.
thanks for help

With what he has right now, he wouldn't be able to squeeze out enough horsepower to justify the cost of a custom tune. The only thing different from a pure stock SR20DET on his setup, as stated above, are the pulleys.

N62 (300ZX) MAFS is a good upgrade, but not needed if you are staying in the stock configuration for a while.

My suggestion: if you're planning on upgrading for more power, plan your build, acquire the parts, and a couple days before you start the build send the ECU out to RS*E or JWT with your parts/mods list. Including mail transit times, it should take about 5 days from the day you mail it out to get it back to you.

[sr20boi]

well i forgot to mention that i also got a new turbo.. its just a stock replacment. its boosting 12lbs and my car sorta starts to cut out at around 5000rpm so i was wanting to get a maf and a get it tuned and see how it runs... but its cool "ill search around";)

[bkuhl]

Stock ECU can handle 12psi...sounds like you have other issues with your configuration.

[dwadia]

With what he has right now, he wouldn't be able to squeeze out enough horsepower to justify the cost of a custom tune. The only thing different from a pure stock SR20DET on his setup, as stated above, are the pulleys.

I don't completely agree with this (again, it's a matter of opinion though)... he has a FMIC, full exhaust, and i am sure an aftermarket intake. He may or may not be running stock boost, but either way, he can certainly turn the boost up a bit with his current set-up. I realize that this is basically "standard" for an sr swap... but that doesn't make it "stock." STOCK setup is with an airbox, side-mount IC, and restrictive OEM exhaust. There is a significant difference and he can benefit from a tune.

I had a 300zx TT with only intake, full exhaust, and bigger intercoolers, and the boost turned up. I got a JWT tune and it made a world of difference.

[dwadia]

...my car sorta starts to cut out at around 5000rpm so i was wanting to get a maf and a get it tuned...

what do you mean "cut out"? if the power falls off at 5k rpm that is normal for the stock turbo, but i'm not sure if that's what you're getting at... in any case, idk that a tune would change that very much, and i don't think the maf will matter at all for that particular issue.

[bkuhl]

I don't completely agree with this (again, it's a matter of opinion though)... he has a FMIC, full exhaust, and i am sure an aftermarket intake. He may or may not be running stock boost, but either way, he can certainly turn the boost up a bit with his current set-up. I realize that this is basically "standard" for an sr swap... but that doesn't make it "stock." STOCK setup is with an airbox, side-mount IC, and restrictive OEM exhaust. There is a significant difference and he can benefit from a tune.

I'm going to assume his termination of "stock" was to be decoded as a setup with a FMIC and full turbo-back capable exhaust, which is typically STANDARD with SR20 swaps in USDM chassis'. Most people don't know that a TRUE stock SR20 has a SMIC, and horrible airbox. IIRC stock boost on a SR20 is 7psi because they don't include the solenoid.

I had a 300zx TT with only intake, full exhaust, and bigger intercoolers, and the boost turned up. I got a JWT tune and it made a world of difference.

I would hope you got at tune! Twin turbo applications are more complex than single turbo applications. Any changes mild changes in a TT setup will require a tune.

well i forgot to mention that i also got a new turbo.. its just a stock replacment. its boosting 12lbs and my car sorta starts to cut out at around 5000rpm so i was wanting to get a maf and a get it tuned and see how it runs... but its cool "ill search around";)

I've never replaced it with a stock T25; did it come with an uprated wastegate actuator?

[dwadia]

To me it's the same principle, single- or twin-turbo (and the Z does not have a very complex turbo set-up like, say, an rx-7 with sequential turbos)... the oem tune is very conservative, it's made to run with a true stock setup (airbox n all lol)... once you increase the airflow going in and coming out, and turn up your boost and get a bigger IC which flows more air and cools it more efficiently, i think there will definitely be room for improved performance with a tune, and i agree, pretty much every swapped USDM 240 falls into that category :) It's not just for hp, it runs more "crisp." If i were starting from scratch, that would be the next engine-related mod i would do after the stuff he has done... unless he doesn't wish to go any further with power mods, or unless he has big plans and wants to wait to do everything in one shot.

[sr20boi]

thanks for the help once again.. well i only have but like 130 miles on the new turbo. Is it okay if i punch it..? I havent fully punched it yet but at arnd 4500 or so it feels like the car boggs.. and yes the internal wastegate is set at 12lbs. i had to replace my stock one because i had blown my turbo seals. its my daily driver so i had to get it up and running lol i do plan on hooking my car up totally but not untill next march or so... but for now i want to get it running nice..? ne idea of what is causing the bogging?

[dwadia]

I don't know of turbos requiring a break-in period, but then i've never had a brand new turbo either lol... i think it's fine to rev it all the way up at this point.

Not sure what is causing your bogging, it's very hard without seeing/feeling it (or at least detailed description). But it's not the maf, unless your 12 psi is beyond its capabilities, which i seriously doubt. Did you have the same problem with the original turbo at stock boost? Or did it run better?

[Schassis707]

thanks for the help once again.. well i only have but like 130 miles on the new turbo. Is it okay if i punch it..? I havent fully punched it yet but at arnd 4500 or so it feels like the car boggs.. and yes the internal wastegate is set at 12lbs. i had to replace my stock one because i had blown my turbo seals. its my daily driver so i had to get it up and running lol i do plan on hooking my car up totally but not untill next march or so... but for now i want to get it running nice..? ne idea of what is causing the bogging?

Fuel management?

[ROOSEY]

Fuel management?

agreed...i had the same bogging problem and it was my fuel pump. i forgot to put a walbro 255 in when i did my swap. if you dont have it i suggest it and hopefully itll fix your problem.

[sr20boi]

okay well it runs great just driving it normal but when i start to half way punch it, it starts to fell like it looses power and once i hit like 4500rpms it starts to jerk back and forth as if it is not getting enough air or fuel.. It doesnt die out or anything. With the stock turbo i had it was running perfect... No problems or anything. I am going to get a fuel pump and see how it does. Thanks for the advice. Greatly appreciate it! I also did some searching and some people say it could be my cold pipe connection sleeve just kind of slipped up on the throttle body enough to run fine at no or low boost. Ill have to give it a good look when i do my oil change tomorrow.

[ROOSEY]

ya no problem man, and thats EXACTLY what my sr was doing and ran great once i got a new fuel pump. itd freak out at about 4500 rpms and had no power. good luck hope eevrything works out for ya.