Auto crossing pbm coilovers??

[alindeman1989]

I enjoy track days as much as the next guy, but lately ive been getting more and more into auto crossing. I wondering how i should set up my pbm coils to do better at auto crossing instead of just wanting to slide all around. I assume set the damping as soft as they go and maybe get some 8k 6k springs idk tho. Has anyone here auto crossed/grip their pbm coils? How did you change them to get better traction. sorry im a noob when it comes to this kind of stuff. thanks guys

[fliprayzin240sx]

You want it to grip, get softer spring rate and spend the money really good tires all around.

[Csomme]

Theres a guy around these parts that's been autocrossing on PSMs for well over a year. He enjoys them, but they are pretty stiff for that kind of thing ^

[Corbic]

Find out how the change your class rating first?

[ripnbst]

Sticky tires will help a ton as mentioned. I recommend Dunlop Z1 Star Specs. There are some better tires but for the price they cant be beat.

[tougefactory]

Take out caster, if its a small course. High caster will make the car very hard to drive thru the cones and you'll have sore forearms next day. Little toe out in the front will help. You don't need to run much camber. Get your car corner balanced. Get good tires. And most importantly, go and drive and get better at driving! :)

[WanganRunner]

I guess coils will allow you to stay in the "stock" class, not sure.

You'll have to keep stock tire dimensions though, so given that you can't increase your contact patch, you will indeed either have to make the suspension a little softer or increase your stickiness. For stock classes, I think it needs to be a DOT-approved tire, and most people seem to run Hoosiers.

I don't claim to be any authority on autocrossing, but I know that modifications can quickly place your car in a class wherein it won't be competitive. A few tweaks in the wrong places can land you in the same field with formula cars.

[slider2828]

Autocross is a little different in suspension setup....

Most people go with highest spring rate setup as their tire can hold. THe point is to STOP the car from swaying around (reduce weight transfer) and go through the course as fast as possible.... You will need to look at under vs. oversteer and what type of driver you are....

Widest tract your car can handle with stickiest tires you can afford.... and being in the right class....

[Corbic]

Class and rules are everything.

SCCA - Sports Car Club of America (http://www.scca.com/contentpage.aspx?content=61)

If your car is swapped, your screwed. Enjoy the Street Mod series.

Comparison of permitted modifications in SCCA classes (http://www.sff.net/people/dburkhead/prepcompare.htm)

[didderson]

For one, they're plenty good for grip, but if the course is rough you might want softer springs.
Don't buy a 2 way lsd, or use a welded (obviously).
This is why I originally bought my hlsd. lsd without the increased understeer when not powering over.
Tires halp tons, mine are meh, stretched hankook v12 in the rear plowing feddy 535's up front :(, I am trying them out on sunday in hershey autox.
Don't swap your car and expect to do awesome on street tires haha. But it really isn't about winning, just get some seat time and have fun man.

[Perfect Balance]

IIRC, pbm coilovers are kind of overdamped on the rebound side, which, quick bumps or fast transitions, the coilovers go down before they can come back up and you end up pretty much bottoming them out, and they stay there until you get to a smooth part/stop making quick transitions and they have time to come back up.

Going by the general coilover adjustment, which just makes rebound stiffer more than anything else, I'd imagine they would work better at a softer setting, and simply getting stickier tires. To counter the oversteer you might want to try making the front stiffer than the rear though.

[slider2828]

IIRC, pbm coilovers are kind of overdamped on the rebound side, which, quick bumps or fast transitions, the coilovers go down before they can come back up and you end up pretty much bottoming them out, and they stay there until you get to a smooth part/stop making quick transitions and they have time to come back up.

Going by the general coilover adjustment, which just makes rebound stiffer more than anything else, I'd imagine they would work better at a softer setting, and simply getting stickier tires. To counter the oversteer you might want to try making the front stiffer than the rear though.

You mean better springs.... THeir springs probably no better than megan springs or stance... pure junk....

8/6 swift springs with QA1 thrust bearings will make your car handle like a dream.....

Here's the proof about swift springs
MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Swift Springs dynoed (http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/157535-swift-springs-dynoed.html)

[Silverbullet]

You mean better springs.... THeir springs probably no better than megan springs or stance... pure junk....

8/6 swift springs with QA1 thrust bearings will make your car handle like a dream.....

Here's the proof about swift springs
MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Swift Springs dynoed (http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/157535-swift-springs-dynoed.html)

The shocks are garbage as well. Like previous guy said (didn't feel like multi quoting to make a short post), similar to all the other inexpensive coilovers, they are heavily over damped at high speed piston movement, and underdamped at low speed piston movement. Perhaps the progressive nature of those garbage shocks may not be a bad idea for the over damped system?? haha jK!