Alternative junkyard 5lug options (not s14)?

[Black R]

I have an evo brembo setup and 5lug front hubs ready to go on my s13.

But I want to convert to 5lug before messing with upgrading my brakes.

Sooo what options do I have in checking local junkyards? Can I use j30, altima, or maxima 5lug rotors in the interim with my stock s13 calipers?

What about the rear? I have q45 rears ready to go on, but don't have all the ebrake stuff, so in the meantime what 5lug rear hubs and rotors can I use with stock calipers?

I left out s14 as an option bc those are always pillaged first at the junkyard.

[WheelWhore]

J30's fit but you have to ghetto the rear ebrake.

Z32 is the only other option for the rear other then s14 or aftermarket.

[Black R]

J30's fit but you have to ghetto the rear ebrake.

Z32 is the only other option for the rear other then s14 or aftermarket.


What from j30 works?

Rotors, hubs, calipers?
Front and rear?
And what do you mean ghetto ebrake?

[WheelWhore]

Fronts Work, But you need to bore the back of the hub to allow the retaining clip to seat.

The rears Work but you have to use the WHOLE rear knuckle. I used the J30 rear brakes, nvr tried to fit the S13 on there.

[Black R]

J30 front hubs work?!

[victorw210]

j30s need stock s13 wheel bearing pressed in, they are almost bolot on for s14 tho but i.d. of wheel bearing is different for s14 and s14

[WholeGrainS13]

just get some ichiba 5lug conversion hubs and get the rotors you have now redrilled to 5x114

[Black R]

just get some ichiba 5lug conversion hubs and get the rotors you have now redrilled to 5x114


I have eBay front 5lug hubs but don't want to spend $ to redrill rotors or buy s14 ones bc I'll be switching them out in a week anyway for evo brembo calipers and rotors.

I did pick up q45 front calipers, rotors, and pads today for $42 at the junkyard though.


The rears: I don't want to use the eBay stuff bc I have the entire q45 rear end, axles, brake calipers, rotors, brake, etc. I just don't want to mess with it yet bc I'll have to get the driveshaft modified and cant afford the downtime right now.

I think I'll just get the whole j30 rear upright as a tide me over 5lug till I'm ready to swap the q45 stuff in.

[Datenshi]

No one else seemed to mention this but... heres my thought.

Why don't you just wait a week until you have everything you need?

[projectRDM]

The rears: I don't want to use the eBay stuff bc I have the entire q45 rear end, axles, brake calipers, rotors, brake, etc. I just don't want to mess with it yet bc I'll have to get the driveshaft modified and cant afford the downtime right now.

I think I'll just get the whole j30 rear upright as a tide me over 5lug till I'm ready to swap the q45 stuff in.

The axles are the larger size like the Z32 TT, so you'll need to use the Q45 hubs, would be easier to just keep the J30 stuff, it bolts up to the OE axles, the parking brake assembly is the same as the Q45/Z32, and any of the rear calipers from said vehicles bolt right up. The J30 diff is a direct bolt in too, most salvage yards will let an entire subframe go for $200-250 from a J30.

[WheelWhore]

spoken like the true wizard he is.

[Black R]

The axles are the larger size like the Z32 TT, so you'll need to use the Q45 hubs, would be easier to just keep the J30 stuff, it bolts up to the OE axles, the parking brake assembly is the same as the Q45/Z32, and any of the rear calipers from said vehicles bolt right up. The J30 diff is a direct bolt in too, most salvage yards will let an entire subframe go for $200-250 from a J30.



Sorry I guess I wasn't clear:

Currently I'm 4lug with j30 diff.

I want to swap to 5lug now.

After that, I will then install the evo brembo setup and q45 rear end.

So my question is: going from 4lug to j30 rear 5lug, what parts do I need fron the donor car? Just the uprights and hubs / rotors / calipers? Or will I need the ebrake cables too? Anything else?

[gist864]

z32 rears work

[KrazyS13]

Maybe its just me but it seems you are going about this the hardest way possible. Get some damn Z32 N/A rear hubs, and some conversion fronts, then bolt your shit on. jeez

[Black R]

Maybe its just me but it seems you are going about this the hardest way possible. Get some damn Z32 N/A rear hubs, and some conversion fronts, then bolt your shit on. jeez

Maybe...

But around here, z32na and s14 stuff is hard to come by and way overpriced.

If you read the thread, then you'll know that I already have front conversion hubs.

I'm asking about the rear j30 knuckles or uprights specifically.

[projectRDM]

You bolt on the entire upright. You can use J30 or S14 arms, your choice. The J30 camber arm is a heavier cast piece than the stamped S14 arm, the others are the same, stamped and welded. The ebrake cables are different from the other vehicles, they have a long steel piece coming out of the upright so you'll use them and just make a bracket to secure them to the chassis, it's self explanatory once you get them run up into the transmission tunnel. Basically just a bracket to hold them tight and secure as they're a hair longer and won't bolt to the OE spot.

Also, very important, knock the grease seal off the S14 axle, the J30 uses a grease seal pressed in behind the wheel bearing, with the S14 seal in place they bind and the axle won't be able to turn. Or you can pry the J30 seal out, either way, but it's the same design as the Z32, the seal isn't on the axle it's seated against the bearing.

FYI, the Q45 rear upright is the same aluminum piece as the Z32, so using it requires fork style lower shock mounts, the J30 uses the ball type and doesn't require anything optional. Also, if you choose to use a Q45 diff with the larger axles, you can just keep the J30 uprights and source out early J30 axles (1992-1994), they're also 5bolt flanged and will mate to the 5bolt output shafts on most Q45 diffs, instead of using the bigger hubs and axles the Q45 uses.

Still, it's easier to use the J30 diff, it's the same R200V model and doesn't require anything additional. Some of the Q45 options may have a different gear ratio but that's the only thing you will gain/lose.

[EnjukuBG]

Ichiba 5 lug conversion is the easiest route to take, no headaches, no worrying about the current condition of the used hubs and bearings and all that jazz. I'm all about making things easier for me because Im lazy when it comes to working on my car haha.

[Black R]

Ichiba 5 lug conversion is the easiest route to take, no headaches, no worrying about the current condition of the used hubs and bearings and all that jazz. I'm all about making things easier for me because Im lazy when it comes to working on my car haha.

Except for the fact that ichiba bearings go bad so quickly and their studs snap off regularly.

Also, you either have to redrill your rotors or buy some 5lug ones.

[Black R]

For posterity, here's an old thread with q45 and j30 info for s13's:

5 lug from J30 on 240sx Q's : 240SX Technical Forum (http://forums.nicoclub.com/5-lug-from-j30-on-240sx-q-s-t333501.html)

[soreballz]

^ In typical NICO fashion, that thread was full of stupid, and left me with a headache. The small amount of good info in that thread is already readily available right here on Zilvia.

[projectRDM]

Seriously, this is why I quit skimming NICO over a decade ago, what a shitty, worthless thread.

[soreballz]

Russ, in my searching, I've found a few conflicting posts regarding the use of the J30 rear 5lug on S13s. Most of what I found said those parts are a direct bolt-on as long as you use the entire upright, and no other parts are needed. But then I found this old post of yours:

They all work, but the bearing is pressed into the upright instead of bolting on so you'll just swap the entire upright. You'll also need either J30 Aarms or S14 ball joints IIRC.
Typically, I'd know not to doubt you, but the "IIRC" you put at the end makes me curious.

Any ideas? I'd like to be sure before I spend 2 hours wandering around the local yard searching for a J30 to pull the LCAs from. :wan:

[WheelWhore]

Russ, in my searching, I've found a few conflicting posts regarding the use of the J30 rear 5lug on S13s. Most of what I found said those parts are a direct bolt-on as long as you use the entire upright, and no other parts are needed. But then I found this old post of yours:


Typically, I'd know not to doubt you, but the "IIRC" you put at the end makes me curious.

Any ideas? I'd like to be sure before I spend 2 hours wandering around the local yard searching for a J30 to pull the LCAs from. :wan:


I have done the swap first hand. I didnt bother pulling the hubs. I pulled the whole rear upright. It bolted on. Just make sure you get the lower strut bolt as its a bolt and not a nut.

[projectRDM]

Russ, in my searching, I've found a few conflicting posts regarding the use of the J30 rear 5lug on S13s. Most of what I found said those parts are a direct bolt-on as long as you use the entire upright, and no other parts are needed. But then I found this old post of yours:
Typically, I'd know not to doubt you, but the "IIRC" you put at the end makes me curious.

Any ideas? I'd like to be sure before I spend 2 hours wandering around the local yard searching for a J30 to pull the LCAs from. :wan:

On the two cars I've done, both S14, I used the S14 Aarm, I'd have to see a J30 but the S13 Aarm has narrower mounting staunches to the subframe so the S14 Aarm wouldn't work, if the J30 is the same then of course it won't work either. I'd just use the existing Aarm since you know it fits.

I have done the swap first hand. I didnt bother pulling the hubs. I pulled the whole rear upright. It bolted on. Just make sure you get the lower strut bolt as its a bolt and not a nut.

The lower shock mount on the J30 attaches the same as the S14. On an S13, yes, you'll need the bolt and washer.

[WheelWhore]

On the two cars I've done, both S14, I used the S14 Aarm, I'd have to see a J30 but the S13 Aarm has narrower mounting staunches to the subframe so the S14 Aarm wouldn't work, if the J30 is the same then of course it won't work either. I'd just use the existing Aarm since you know it fits.



The lower shock mount on the J30 attaches the same as the S14. On an S13, yes, you'll need the bolt and washer.


Thanks Russ, on the J30 I did, it was on a S13. Never have owned a S14.

For the A Arms, on a s13, they BARELY BARELY fit. I had to grind down the metal inserts inside the bushings and in the end, I still didnt like it.

Its been a while since I have ghetto rigged, but if I remember, the ball joints wont line up from S13 A Arm to J30 Upright. Hence the grinding on the J30 Arm to make it fit in a s13. Plus, if i remember right, it threw the tow of the rear wheels out of whack.

Just go S14/Z32 instead. I mean really, $100? you can get em all day long for $100.

[soreballz]

Yeah, I need S14 A-arms anyway. I just picked up an S14 subframe. Total hurr durr moment on my part.

[blueshark123]

op sounds like a dumbass if u cant find hubs at a junkyard search craigslist if u still cant find them look on here i see more then enough for sale on here and if u have rear q45 brakes use q45 rotors. Now if u still have a question fucking search

[WheelWhore]

haha. looks like he is trying to find a cheaper way which in all reality, Z32/S14 is the best option instead of all the wasted time and effort.

[Black R]

op sounds like a dumbass if u cant find hubs at a junkyard search craigslist if u still cant find them look on here i see more then enough for sale on here and if u have rear q45 brakes use q45 rotors. Now if u still have a question fucking search



Wow.

The only one here who sounds like a dumbass is you.

Learn some grammar kid; also punctuation would be helpful if you don't want to come off like the ignorant sort you are.

Once again, if anyone else wants to say I should get s14 crap, just get the fuck out of the thread.

I don't feel like paying through the nose online or buying some terrible shit off eBay, nor do I want to be the victim of a scam like half you people. So if I can't fnd it locally and inspect it, well it's not getting bought by me.

I was able to go to pull-a-part and buy j30t rear uprights, calipers, pads, rotors, and ebrake assembly for $50. Beat that with s14 parts.

Projctrdm, thanks for your advice.

I got the q45 fronts and j30 rears on this weekend. I used the s13 arms because they seemed to keep the correct geometry. I have a full set of s14 arms that i can swap in if my alignment guy says something is off. And I did kinda ghetto rig the ebrake cables, but its nothing a couple of 12mm self tapping screws wont fix.

[Big Zee]

No one else seemed to mention this but... heres my thought.

Why don't you just wait a week until you have everything you need?

I agree. simple logic.

[WheelWhore]

Wow.

The only one here who sounds like a dumbass is you.

Learn some grammar kid; also punctuation would be helpful if you don't want to come off like the ignorant sort you are.

Once again, if anyone else wants to say I should get s14 crap, just get the fuck out of the thread.

I don't feel like paying through the nose online or buying some terrible shit off eBay, nor do I want to be the victim of a scam like half you people. So if I can't fnd it locally and inspect it, well it's not getting bought by me.

I was able to go to pull-a-part and buy j30t rear uprights, calipers, pads, rotors, and ebrake assembly for $50. Beat that with s14 parts.

Projctrdm, thanks for your advice.

I got the q45 fronts and j30 rears on this weekend. I used the s13 arms because they seemed to keep the correct geometry. I have a full set of s14 arms that i can swap in if my alignment guy says something is off. And I did kinda ghetto rig the ebrake cables, but its nothing a couple of 12mm self tapping screws wont fix.


Thats the best thing to do. I was running Starion wheels on my J30 rearend and to me the rear tow just looked way off.

But if it works for you, good. Glad I could help.