Ripped open the good ol' sr

[DMC]

hey guys just wanted to let you know that on my sr20 i got both manifolds off and the turbo almost off the manifold we also took off the valve cover and everything looks great except for 2 lobes of the intake camshaft being worn down way too muchthe lobes got chooped up by carbon build up on the lifter(or whatever the lobe touches as it spins) there was oil in the compressor side of the turbo and oil in the intake manifold do any of you know if this is harmful or what could cause it? Also how do u remove the the turbo from the manifold if there is one of those weird washers on there that dont allow you to spin the nut. also how do u rebuild a turbo? thanks alot guys all help is appreciated. OK a few more questions what is the max boost you can run on the turbo t25, and are there any other larger, better turbos that will bolt on to this maniffold???

[misnomer]

Oil in the intake is likely from the valve cover vacuum hose. Beyond that. . .uh. . . . . . Yeah.

[DMC]

thanks man i guess that means its ok, but what do u mean by and the rest...uh yea???

[OldSklS13]

13-15 psi on the t25

[boosteds14]

having oil in the compressor side and the intake side means the turbo bearing is letting oil by. Your intercooler must have oil in it too. will it hurt the motor? Not really, but it is not good either. After a while, oil deposits will build up and problems with the valves may occur. I would suggest to clean as much out as you can now. as for a bigger turbo or a different option to the T25 you have the T28 that uses the same turbine foot print that will bolt right up. Or you can pick up a t25 or rebuild your t25 and get it ported and clipped for better top end power. You will get a little more lag from it but it is a sacrifice for getting more power top-end.

[DMC]

thanks alot guys but does anyone know about those lobes on the camshafts??

[boosteds14]

so you are saying that the lobes are worn to nothing? was there even oil in the motor?????

I am lost. Please describe in more detail. A Pic will come in handy too.

[DMC]

all the lobes on the exhaust side are in perfect shape nothing wrong at all, 2 of the lobes on the intake side look fine, but one is worn down alot like the entire middles section of this lobe is worn down like 2 mm more than the outer mm on each side of the lobe and than the other lobe is worn down similar but not as much ill get a pic tommorow. thanks if anyone gets what im sayin

[DSC]

Nice looking cam on exhaust side
http://www.240motorsports.com/sr/goodcam.jpg

Damaged cam on intake side.
http://www.240motorsports.com/sr/badcam.jpg

http://www.240motorsports.com/sr/head.jpg

Oil in intake manafold. The motor has sat for a while so some of that is water and dirt but there is definitely oil in there.
http://www.240motorsports.com/sr/intake.jpg

Whats that thing that appears to be glued to the underside of the valve cover?
http://www.240motorsports.com/sr/valvecover.jpg

A little oil in the turbo
http://www.240motorsports.com/sr/turbo.jpg

[uiuc240]

The oil inside the turbo's compressor outlet isn't anything to be all that worried about. That's pretty normal, really. As for the cam lobe, though...hmm...that's a big problem. I'd say at the very least, you have a major blockage in the oiling up top. However, more than likely, the problem is down lower. I'd be willing to be that something else seized (like a valve), and this causes the lifter to get jammed into the lobe. That lobe is having major technical difficulties, bro. Time to pop that head off and have a look-see. Better get at the bottom end too. Time for a full rebuild with fresh parts (hell, you got it so cheap, you might as well).

Eric

[DMC]

alrite man ill pull it off and get more pics tommorow...damn i always love sseein your car in your sig its sooo clean

[uiuc240]

thanks, mang! :D

looking back, i wish i had gone your route and taken my time putting the motor in. this way, you can freshen the whole thing up and make it run like new before you even get it in the car. i think that's the way to go. don't forget to get new freeze plugs if you do a rebuild! they make the engine look so much cleaner and newer!

Eric (gratuitous sig pic :D)

[DMC]

Hmmm hwat are freeze plugs? Yea but my engine sat outside for a year so im sure yours is alot better off than this one

[boosteds14]

FYI: that gunky stuff is water, oil, and debri makes that paste looking stuff.

[DMC]

Ok thanks so i guess that means i need to clean it out really good. Thanks for you replies. Boosted where are you located?

[transient]

I know engine brite by "Gunk" is really good for cleaning, but I don't know whether it's safe for some of the internals. Does anyone else know?

[uiuc240]

freeze plugs are the little circular brass plugs that pop into your engine block. look right below the valve cover...there are like 4 right there. they are about quarter sized.

Eric

[boosteds14]

Originally posted by DMC
Ok thanks so i guess that means i need to clean it out really good. Thanks for you replies. Boosted where are you located?

I am located in southern CT.


Freeze plugs are used because when they make the block, they fill the coolant ports with sand in production, they then empty them and put these plugs in called Freeze plugs. They need to be replaced each time the block is boiled for cleaning.

As for your motor, ask yourself this.. "where did the little peices of metal from the cam go?" well it is in your motor and is extrememly bad. If I was you, I would pull the oil pan and check the rod and main bearings. You pretty much need a full motor cleaning. that metal destroys the motor, although you may think it is getting filtered by the oil filter, not all gets collected there.

Check also the cam tower lobes, they are problably scored along with the rod bearings.

as I can see that the exhaust cam has a little debri on it. This is a serious issue and I would look deeper into it. Sorry for that bad news but you dont have to listen to me. this is just my opinion.

[DMC]

sorry it tookso long for me to respond my internet has been down for awhile. Boosted are you sayin that the motor could be permanetly dammaged?????? i plan to take the whole thing apart and have the head and blocked acid bathed...does any one know how good this works?

a few questions i have been meaning to ask

what is the difference between acid bathing and boiling?

will an intake cam off a fwd sr20 work in this engine?

does anyone have any tips to repainting the valve cover?

can anyone tell me how to check for metal in the oil filter and oil pan?

where can i buy new gaskets for the sr20det?

Where can i pick up freeze plugs and how do i remove them?

what is the gooky stuff on the under side of my valve cover?

i appologize for the questions im just happy to be on zilvia again

[mbmbmb23]

where can i buy new gaskets for the sr20det?

http://www.srswap.com/

I'm not trying to advertise for them, but I did see SR gaskets on their site. You may want to check however, I think I remember hearing Sentra SR20DE gaskets could be used (can anyone verify this?).

As for other turbos that have the T25 flange...I'm pretty sure there are HKS turbos 2530, etc.. that have that flange....but those are pricey. I'd look for an S14 BB turbo...I think there are other cars with that turbo also (gti-R), thats what gives the car 220hp instead of the 205hp of the redtops.

[spindrift187]

I think you should just take the KA out of your S14, and drop in the SR, dont worry about trivial things such as "if it runs" just do it. And give me your KA:D

[drift freaq]

quote....[13-15 psi on the t25]

err the T25 starts blowing hot air right around 12 psi.
stock SR's can handle 15psi with the right turbo.
as far as how your engine looks its not good. like boosted said, you have some serious metal in the engine issues there with the desinagration of your camshaft. Time to tear the whole thing apart.
As far as turbos go on the stock manifold T28 BB off the S14 SR T28BB with ceramic coating off the S15SR , also if you can find it the T28 BB off the GTir pulsar is the hottest factory T28. HKS GT2510, GT2530, GT3037. you may even be able to run the Garrett GT25 and GT30 which are basically the sames turbo's as the HKS turbos but the HKS ones have special specs for the compressor side and intake side.

[Bill Roberts]

Nothing short of a full teardown and 100 percent rebuild would surfice.

I pointed out some things here that are just too obvious.

Sludge comes from the oil not being changed regularly. Turbo cars must have their oil changed more frequently. If I had an SR, it would be every weekend and every other weekend for the filter. Overkill? not really. I change mine when it starts to go "tan" never black.

Just the obvious here..

http://groups.msn.com/AudioDiscussionProductiontoAudiophile/screenshots.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=48

[DMC]

anyine wanna buy an a=sr ??? judt kiddin i guess i got a long project ahrad of me, but if i do all this work myself its gonna feel soo good once i turn the key and hear the turbo spool thanks alot guys ill be needen more help after i get te head offf