View Full Version : sound deadening removal (god damn this is hard)
weirdstyles.net
07-25-2003, 12:46 PM
So I gutted my sohc fastback a coupla months ago, and I decided to finally remove that **** on top of the rear wheel wells. I assume its sound deadening mat. It looks like s dense foam mat glued to the wheel wells and strut bell housing...
soaking it with abrasive, waiting now. Been using a plastic scraper as to not scratch the paint....
no fun boys. Any suggestions. Also, that tar type substance on the floor of the rear hatch, what the hell is it? Do I need it (doubt it)? and How the hell do I get it out besides warming it with a torch?
sykikchimp
07-25-2003, 12:48 PM
dry ice + hammer & scraper
MarvynDT
07-25-2003, 12:53 PM
dry wall scraper, a hammer, and a lot of effort.
Took me about 2 days to remove all the tar/sound deadening material in the cabin and the trunk in my S13 coupe. Picking up the garbage bag full of the crap that I removed, it had to be nearly 30-40lbs.
I also managed to find some rusted out tools in the trunk cabin where the jack is located.
Dousan_PG
07-25-2003, 01:04 PM
Originally posted by sykikchimp
dry ice + hammer & scraper
werd
plan a whole day for it, but shouldtnt ake that long.took my friend mmm 3-5 hours iirc.
im donig mine this summer! woot!
weirdstyles.net
07-25-2003, 01:23 PM
im using your basic flexible plastic paint scrapper.... she was doing all good till she decided to snap.
I got the back of the strut bell housings done, the front is a bitch cause I dont have much room. Taking a small break.
Dry ice? Does that just freeze it? Where do I get some? Do I rub it on the tar ****? Do I let it sit?
Question, the rear seat support (spot welded to floor and strut bell housing) any reason why I cant drill out the welds and take that out?
weirdstyles.net
07-26-2003, 09:21 AM
hey boys a girls, Im not sure where 3-5 hrs or a whole day came from. A hammer and 3/4 chizzzle and Im done 1 1/2 hours. Now I need to find a way to remove that nasty *** residue from the adhesive, and suggestions. I
Ive tried goof off 2 and a stiff brissle brush, but nada. Any ideas? Experience?
transient
07-26-2003, 10:10 AM
Engine Brite is your friend :)
Bill Roberts
07-26-2003, 10:30 AM
I am going to leave mine stock...however, the engine bright is a great idea, I removed that crap from my Mazda I had with WD40. WD40 is the best hand cleaner I know of as well. Took 2 cans but it came right up.
transient
07-26-2003, 11:18 AM
Gotta be careful of silicone based lubes like WD-40 though. Don't use them if you plan to paint the area anytime soon. The silicone will keep the paint from adhering properly and you'll see bubbles not too long afterwards.
Bill Roberts
07-26-2003, 11:29 AM
Wow! Learn something each day!
I did not know WD40 was silicon base. I always thought it was carbon based petrol. Good call!
I have not read the can but I take your word for it...for sure..
Yep, wax is another thing you cannot paint over at all. Rubbing alcohol is a good wax remover if you are going to paint..I guess liquid detergent like dawn would cut the WD you think?
weirdstyles.net
07-26-2003, 12:45 PM
here we are, 2:40 started at 11. I apologize to those who said it took forever.
The ****s out, but its the residue thats killing me.. I finally got a black and decker power drill and a steel brush disc to take the **** off.. it works GREAT, but of course the disc gums up and have to get a new one.... no biggy.
Yes silicone, bad...
Im using goof off to clean the residue grim thats left after the drilling, after thats its good ole M600, the mother of all cleaners. Used in paint shops world wide, no silicone in this biatch...
its coming along great, ill post pics when Im done tonight... .of course it wont be painted today, but youll get the idea. I will post a formal how to/review when im all said and done...
MY BACK HURTS!!!!
sykikchimp
07-26-2003, 06:06 PM
I haven't done this yet either.. probably before my cage goes in...
weirdstyles.net
07-26-2003, 07:25 PM
fun, and rewarding. Yet very frikin tedious work...
transient
07-27-2003, 09:34 AM
I still haven't decided whether I want to do it yet. Now would be the perfect time, but I'm just not sure how noisy it will get. Also, someone mentioned that it would let more heat into the cabin as well.
weirdstyles.net
07-27-2003, 06:58 PM
woo fookin woo boyzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
its all done....well kinda. All the bs is removed and cleaned. I painted that fauker but I rean out, so location that once was the left rear seat is unpainted....
So tommarow, get a nother can, finish job. Wait for paint to dry, light sand to remove any imperfections, and I will repaint the biatch
She looks real good. I love this transformation. I even mounted my boxed 6 by 9's on the old rear seat backing brackets which is stellar location.
stellar what a great word
Ill update you when done, see if I cant get that damn digi cam to start workin...
cliff notes: woo, done, sand and paint, 6 by 9's mounted, stellar, update tommarow
JDMsosofreshS13
03-02-2009, 04:23 PM
so whats the process of using dry ice to remove the material off? Do you leave it on the material overnight? im thinking about doing this myself.im guessing a chisel and hammer is best.so whats really the best solution you can use to remove the residuals off if your going to paint soon afterwards also?
murda-c
03-02-2009, 04:34 PM
WD-40 doesn't contain silicone...might still be bad for paint, but no silicone.
Grimace
03-02-2009, 04:47 PM
so whats the process of using dry ice to remove the material off? Do you leave it on the material overnight? im thinking about doing this myself.im guessing a chisel and hammer is best.so whats really the best solution you can use to remove the residuals off if your going to paint soon afterwards also?
You crush up the dry ice into small chunks and let it sit for about 15 or so minutes. You then chisel away at it. It SHOULD come right up.
As for getting the rest of the tar that it leaves, I used Aircraft remover and a grinder with an 80 grit flap disc.
Ktown_drifter
03-02-2009, 04:48 PM
Im in canada.. just waited for a Negative 20 day and took a hammer to it.. took like an hr and It was all done
mehsilvia
03-02-2009, 04:49 PM
Dry Ice is the ONLY way to go. No major chiseling, no major scraping, no major grinding is necessary.
You spread the Dry Ice out over the surface. The Ice basically freezes the glue/residue and the panels practically pop right off.
Here is a pic of when i did the rear hatch:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Interior/IMG_2153.jpg
Some of the panels you might have to pursuade with a chisel, most of them just poped off in large sheets:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Interior/IMG_2154.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Interior/IMG_2155.jpg
The wheelwells are bit a tricky since you will need to hold the ice in place (cause you cant simply lay it down). I didnt remove that material so i dont have any pointers for you.
The Dry Ice takes like 20minutes to freeze the glue. And you just move the ice around the the panels in small sections at a time.
Piece of cake, no mess. You can get it at most Grocery stores.
*Note/Warning: You do not handle Dry Ice with your bear hands. Use gloves and caution when working with it. Shit will bond to your skin instantly, and burn like a motherfucker!
Grimace
03-02-2009, 05:32 PM
I handled dry ice with my bare hands. If you sit there and hold it, Yeah it burns. But if you just pick it up and drop it in place you will be fine. Its not like super glue or anything.
To do the wheel wells put a shit load in a plastic bag and lay it over the top, Then just shove a screw driver threw the bag and into an empty bolt hole.
ThatGuy
03-02-2009, 05:44 PM
Seriously, we needed to bump a Thread from 6 years ago to figure out how to use Dry ice?
:duh:
Otto347
03-02-2009, 05:51 PM
Seriously, we needed to bump a Thread from 6 years ago to figure out how to use Dry ice?
:duh:Hey at least someone used the search function! :rofl:
ThatGuy
03-02-2009, 05:57 PM
Searching is GREAT. I wish it happened more often.
Thread Necrophilia however, is BAD.
JDMsosofreshS13
03-02-2009, 08:37 PM
I handled dry ice with my bare hands. If you sit there and hold it, Yeah it burns. But if you just pick it up and drop it in place you will be fine. Its not like super glue or anything.
To do the wheel wells put a shit load in a plastic bag and lay it over the top, Then just shove a screw driver threw the bag and into an empty bolt hole.
good idea with the wheel wells...where did you guys get your dry ice..I use to work at the airport and that stuff was loaded in the bins along with luggage but not really sure where to pick some up..
stickorslide
03-02-2009, 08:55 PM
i got some from publix super market, next to the frozen stuff in a seperate freazer.
JDMsosofreshS13
03-02-2009, 09:02 PM
ya im gona check out some places and this soda place around my way too.they should sell it in stores like regular ice im hoping.
cc4usmc
03-02-2009, 09:17 PM
Hey at least someone used the search function! :rofl:
It's not like Zilvia is the only source of information though. There are other places where the information could be found where you wouldn't have to bump an old ass thread. Whatever though, it happens every day anyways. :dead:
S14Cuhh
03-02-2009, 09:29 PM
Dry Ice is the ONLY way to go. No major chiseling, no major scraping, no major grinding is necessary.
You spread the Dry Ice out over the surface. The Ice basically freezes the glue/residue and the panels practically pop right off.
Here is a pic of when i did the rear hatch:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Interior/IMG_2153.jpg
Some of the panels you might have to pursuade with a chisel, most of them just poped off in large sheets:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Interior/IMG_2154.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Interior/IMG_2155.jpg
The wheelwells are bit a tricky since you will need to hold the ice in place (cause you cant simply lay it down). I didnt remove that material so i dont have any pointers for you.
The Dry Ice takes like 20minutes to freeze the glue. And you just move the ice around the the panels in small sections at a time.
Piece of cake, no mess. You can get it at most Grocery stores.
*Note/Warning: You do not handle Dry Ice with your bear hands. Use gloves and caution when working with it. Shit will bond to your skin instantly, and burn like a motherfucker!
yooh my friend are a good example of HELP that people need on zil. kudos to yooh. perfect example
Grimace
03-02-2009, 09:31 PM
good idea with the wheel wells...where did you guys get your dry ice..I use to work at the airport and that stuff was loaded in the bins along with luggage but not really sure where to pick some up..
I also got mine from publix, Any local supermarket should have it.
It's not like Zilvia is the only source of information though. There are other places where the information could be found where you wouldn't have to bump an old ass thread. Whatever though, it happens every day anyways. :dead:
Heh, You cant win on the internet. If you make a new thread, You get bashed for not searching, You search and bring up and old thread you get bashed for that.
cc4usmc
03-02-2009, 09:38 PM
Heh, You cant win on the internet. If you make a new thread, You get bashed for not searching, You search and bring up and old thread you get bashed for that.
This isn't the internet, just a small part of the internet. If you rely on just this site for all your problems and information, you're going to get "bashed". Make sense?
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