2 problems sr20 related.

[el ocho]

Backround is that I just pulled my engine this winter and installed some new stuff. Now that its running Im having two problems.(s13)

1. High idle - as the car warms up the idle goes up and right now when its warmed up it sits at about 2000rpm at idle

- I have tried all to adjust all the mechanical things and no luck, it doesnt want to go down.

any suggestions?

2. When I 'Step' on the gas, nothing too rank there is a clicking comming from around my speedo, as soon as I let of the gas a bit it goes away and when I just drive it normal it doesnt happen. And im not talking like im reving it to 7 grand. If I just give it a bit more gas then normal driving it will make that click(even at around 3000rpm)
I believe it has something to do with the speedo sensor or something because when I rev it in neutral the ticking doesnt happen.
(its a digital speedo btw)

any suggestions

any help is really appreciated. thanks

[el ocho]

anyone that can help me out? thanks

[nismolvr]

what did you install?Give us more clues.

[Sileighty_85]

Vacuum leak

[rollout240]

check your timing. if its off then your idle control valve will be off. if you installed some mods and move the cas around then maybe just maybe its not in sync. check that out and see how it looks. good luck.

[el ocho]

well ill tell you what i changed.

-went from bottom mount gtir turbo to topmount gt30
- new clutch
-motor/tranny mounts
-lightweight pulleys
-new(used) power steering pump
-and some other little things i cant think of

Im still very much a rookie when it comes to understanding all the electrical components and last night I was feeling like a champ and found some stuff on trying to unhook the MAF and the TPS ( i did at different times and did not have both off at the same time). The Maf made my idle drop to normal and the TPS did nothing. I reconnected them and not my car is having crazy idle issues and bogging.:duh:

live and learn i guess. And suggestions on what I can do to get my AIR/ FUEL back on track.

Ive learnt my lessons to not always trust the internet and not do something when you are not educated enought to know the consequences hah and also that its alot easier to pull an engine and add bolt ons then to figure out all this ecu related issues.

Thanks for the help guys.

old setup
http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/ww55/coltindolha/P4080089.jpg
heres a picture of the current setup
http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/ww55/coltindolha/IMAGE_186.jpg

[nismolvr]

1 check all vacuum hoses
2 check Throttle body linkage ,make sure the linkage allows TB plate to close.Make sure the cable has a little slack,you may have installed linkage too tight therefore keeping it open and thus RPMs are higher.
3 check timing
4 check all your connectors

[PomiDori]

replace coolant temp sensor( 17$ ask sentra se-r 94)

[clain]

^^ Except not the gauge sensor, the ECU sensor.. mine was idling at 2k because this went bad (s14a sr20det so had to get an actual sr replacement)

[DataXUnknown]

I don't think the timing would make it idle that high, so I don't think it's a timing issue, and as for vacuum leaks, if you had vacuum leaks more than likely the car would be sputtering/not idleing smoothly. I would try replacing that sensor that was mentioned above, other than that you should check your IACV. My buddies car didn't have the proper screw in it so it was just idling super high all the time. Also double check the throttle body make sure it closes all the way (as mentioned above as well).

[el ocho]

hey thanks for the help guys. Im thinking it is that sensor and will be replacing it.

but now im screwed on what i did when i unplugged my tps and maf cause now im still getting bogging and my ecu is throwing both codes for them. How can i reset them so to speak. Realy wishing i hadnt messed with them.

thanks for any help

[nismolvr]

hey thanks for the help guys. Im thinking it is that sensor and will be replacing it.

but now im screwed on what i did when i unplugged my tps and maf cause now im still getting bogging and my ecu is throwing both codes for them. How can i reset them so to speak. Realy wishing i hadnt messed with them.

thanks for any helpok first off ,keep it simple.you have to understand that its difficult to Diagnose your car over the web.We are giving you advice as to what is the most likely cause considering your description.If you messed around with TPS adjustment without a DVOM ,you just made things worse,Reset it to Specs first .So before you also consider the Maf ,if your getting these codes its because you Tampered with (TPS)them or while your engine was running !MAF has no adjustment ,it either works or it doesnt,only thing you can do is clean it .please check the basics.like coolant, make sure the radiator is full and that you have properly burped/vent the air from your cooling system ,10mm bolt on water neck by exhaust manifold ,to the right side of CAS.
I have personally experienced my bros car idle up and down because he was low on coolant ,the low coolant level was messing with air bypass valve and engine temp sensor.Just because the radiator is full doesnt n mean you have completely removed all air pockets from cooling system/bleed it ,I will also add Im assuming you installed a new thermostat .

You unplug your battery,and you will erase codes. Im also assuming you dont have vacuum leaks,throttle bodyCable is adjusted properly,you havent messed around with Idle air control setting.
First Check TPS voltage at idle !,if its too high it will BOG!(sending wrong voltages to ecu ) .Check cooling system,change Engine temp sensor ,not the gauge sensor.If that doesnt fix, Then you can consider further Diagnosis.below is a link on how to adjust TPS and other important info.

SR20 Setup Tips (http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/sr_setup_tips.shtml)

[Motoskin]

+1 for throttle plate.. my sr was idling @ around 2k.. i was stumped... went to go push the throttle body down and the idle dropped... so i gave it a little more slack...fixed my idle problem

[el ocho]

Thanks nismolvr

Will try n burp system again(and no I did not install a new thermostat but it has been opening up fine). and also have been researching on adjusting the TPS and am going to reset it to spec tomorrow.

And the reason I believe it is the high idle issue is due to the ecu temp sensor is that I have been watching my temp as I warm up my car from a complete cold start and everytime the temp gets to 60 degrees celcius the rpms take the largest spike up. The consistency of the relation between the temp and the rpms leads me to believe that its the temp sensor reading inaccurately. Does that reasoning make sense?

still trying to get everything down hear so bear with me. Appreciate all the help tho.

and yes there is slack in the throttle cable.

[nismolvr]

Thanks nismolvr

Will try n burp system again(and no I did not install a new thermostat but it has been opening up fine). and also have been researching on adjusting the TPS and am going to reset it to spec tomorrow.

And the reason I believe it is the high idle issue is due to the ecu temp sensor is that I have been watching my temp as I warm up my car from a complete cold start and everytime the temp gets to 60 degrees celcius the rpms take the largest spike up. The consistency of the relation between the temp and the rpms leads me to believe that its the temp sensor reading inaccurately. Does that reasoning make sense?

still trying to get everything down hear so bear with me. Appreciate all the help tho.

and yes there is slack in the throttle cable.Def change temp sensor.If you messed around with TPS adjust it to specs The link I gave you tell you how to do it .Its listed as #2 on the page ,Id set it to .45V .Here is the link again.
SR20 Setup Tips (http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/sr_setup_tips.shtml)

[lehua768]

when I just drive it normal it doesnt happen. And im not talking like im reving it to 7 grand. If I just give it a bit more gas then normal driving it will make that click(even at around 3000rpm)I believe it has something to do with the speedo sensor or something because when I rev it in neutral the ticking doesnt happen.I warm up my car from a complete cold start and everytime the temp gets to 60 degrees celcius the rpms take the largest spike up. The consistency of the relation between the temp and the rpms leads me to believe that its the temp sensor reading inaccurately. Does that reasoning make sense?



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[el ocho]

well i changed my ecu temp sensor and sadly no change.

I have another question

on the IACV are both smaller lines supposed to be capped or left open. Thankss
http://i2.frsimg.com/images/detailed_images/Nissan_SRIACV_6.jpg

[rollout240]

mine are not capped. they recirculate somewhere but i can't remember off the top of my head. ill look into it.

[Flatline1121]

any more info on this situation? im pretty sure i looped the coolant lines on the iacv on my car and i have a wired issue with my idle as well.

when i come to idle after building boost it will idle at 2k. if i really beat it and ride out to 7k it'll try to idle a 3k.

not sure if this is related.

[chituntang]

They are coolant lines, and they are there so that the IACV knows if the car is warmed up or not. Runs from the coolant pipe under the intake manifold.