New SR20 Swap Issues

[silentcovenant]

Hey guys,

I just swapped my KA for an SR and I'm beginning to regret it. After the swap it was running great, only problem I had was keeping my intercooler from popping off. Its only under stock boost and all, motor completely stock. That's what I get for putting in a used local Intercooler--piping setup is really tight.

Yesterday, I went to take it for a drive, to test the intercooler since I've been having issues with it since the swap just a few days prior. One of the couplers popped off on the hot side forcing me to pull off to the side of the freeway. I managed to roll it home, still started just idled rough, and got the pipes back together. Now it idles really rough even with the intercooler on, pretty sure everythings secure.

Seems like its misfiring really badly, when I give it throttle, still stutters badly. Lots of smoke coming out the exhaust. A friend pulled codes for me and got 11, 12, and 34 (Camshaft Position Sensor, Air Flow Meter, and Knock Sensor). Dunno what to do. I'm a complete n00b at all this. A friend helped drop the SR in, he's stumped too. Thinks it might be Ignitor Chip.

What do you guys think?

Thanks,
--Marc

[VQMaxFan]

Change your plugs they are probably fowled out badly from the car running super rich when the I/C piping popped off.

[Ceepo]

you could use hair spray on the couplers, it will get sticky when it dries and stick to the pipe alont with the clamp makin it stick to it... just spray some on the inside and slide it on, put the clamp on, and done...

[Sileighty_85]

your probably using those cheap ass worm gear clamps huh? (the one that use the screw driver to clamp it)

You need to go out and get some T-Bolt Clamps, that'll fix it.

vac line probably popped off check out all lines and intercooler piping

[silentcovenant]

Yeah, still doesn't explain why it won't idle properly anymore.. I'm pretty sure they intercooler is on properly again.. won't idle, just burns fuel like crazy..

[silentcovenant]

Change your plugs they are probably fowled out badly from the car running super rich when the I/C piping popped off.

You were right.. pulled the plugs and the first cylinder was soaked in oil.. smoke even started coming out! Gah! Hope its not blown!

[Finchie]

It isn't blown, same thing happened to me one day.

Couplers blew off and I had to drive it home, fouled out plugs. Replaced plugs and it was good as new.

[silentcovenant]

It isn't blown, same thing happened to me one day.

Couplers blew off and I had to drive it home, fouled out plugs. Replaced plugs and it was good as new.

I hope so.. that'd be lovely! I ordered better intercooler pipes so, hopefully they hold out and don't pester me again. Gonna change the oil too tomorrow since the plugs are getting changed.

Apparently before we did the swap, the guy that sold it to me didn't empty out the oil before giving it to us and we automatically assumed it was empty and filled it with more oil... So pissed..

[mrchomponthis]

Wow you didn't change the oil when you did the swap? I suggest you get new couplers not piping... and I would do a ton of research on the forums looking for proper installation of things before you do much more. Good luck man, everyone starts somewhere.

[Options13]

how do you know if your plugs are fowled? will they still work, but just perform worse?

[silentcovenant]

how do you know if your plugs are fowled? will they still work, but just perform worse?

I don't know? Never saw a 'fouled' spark plug before.. but it looks super black.. all over the tip and arm. Dunno what they're called.

I'm hoping everything works out after I drain and swap plugs. *fingers crossed*

[jdm213]

you also got the smoke for too much oil, thats bad, and you say that the plugs where soaked in oil, so you didnt get good spark so it ran like shit and misfired alot, mi sure its the plugs man good luck.

[silentcovenant]

Just to keep you guys updated, I finally got it running, magically, and decided to rush it to a shop. They found out that, about three feet up the wire harness connecting to the maf, the insulation on a few of the cables was cracked and I guess the wires were crossing when moved in a certain position. The replaced the wires for me and she's running a lot better.

Now I just gotta find a way to let this car idle immediately after start. It does idle to about 800 after driving it around a bit, but it runs kinda rough even after letting it warm up for a minute or two.

[spools420a]

your probably using those cheap ass worm gear clamps huh? (the one that use the screw driver to clamp it)

You need to go out and get some T-Bolt Clamps, that'll fix it.

vac line probably popped off check out all lines and intercooler piping
Whats funny I bought some from peakboost one time and I had a slight boost leak from the t bolt where that bend ison the clamp no matter how tight I clamped them?any ways what kinda couplers are you using I hope its not thiose rubber $5 home depot ones,I did this when I turboed my eclipse and everytime they popped off the hot pipe,Also go Try a boost leak test and be sure your not having a major leak cause my coupler had tore where it would still see boost but leak so bad the maf would make the car stutter.

[silentcovenant]

It seems the intercooler is holding boost now, finally.. but now it has a strange overheating issue. Usually shows up when driving on the freeway or when I decide to pound it. Smells like somethings burning when it starts heating up. Usually goes to about 3/4 temp before I pull off to the side and let it idle. Usually that'll bring it down. Its bothering me, any ideas? I don't see anything leaking, I could be wrong though. Total noob here, had my friend do the swap so he knows all the engine stuff. I'm still learning.

Coolant levels look good, the reserviour is filled, don't there there are any bubbles, don't hear anything when its running or turn off. Used to hear bubbling then I bled it.

[Q.Smooth127]

what kind of cooling system are you running just curious?

and you said your car still isnt idling nicely when you first start em?
have you tried cleaning your iacv and is your maf working 100% fine for sure?

my s13 is running rich and having similar idle issues. it searches until warm up and after when you drive em small kind then it idles fine.

[silentcovenant]

Stock KA cooling I guess.. Radiator only?
After the car warms up fully it idles at about 800rpm

Weird, only heats up when driving on the freeway.. could not having a bov cause this? I notice when it does overheat, the intercooler pipes pop off before it hit H.

[silentcovenant]

Any ideas as to what the problem might be?

[davirene]

1. Vent your radiator you have air in the radiator. Park on a slope and take your radiator cap off so you can burp the bubbles.... Are you using a pressure relief radiator cap.

2. Radiator has blockage....make sure its flushed and flowing. Make sure your overflow bottles is connected and sealed up.

3. Water pump starting to go....will usually start leaking underneath the middle.


Goodluck....post the results???

[davirene]

So is it fixed????? if so what was the problem???

[silentcovenant]

Not fixed yet.. I can't find the problem. I dunno if I'm properly 'burping' the radiator like you said? Not entirely sure if I'm bleeding it properly either.. gah! I dunno cars!

[silentcovenant]

UPDATE: I noticed if I run the heater on full blast when it starts to heat up, I'll just low rev it--around 2500--it will start to return to normal. Once I start pounding it though it'll rise again. GRRR!

Also, when I press on the gas, feels like I'm losing power till I hit higher rpm. Hesitates at low rpm. Boost leak? I don't feel the turbo kicking in afterb it fully spools too...

[davirene]

Sounds like you have two different problems....but you probably have a bad, clogged radiator....the Heater core is an additional radiator....thats why it cools when you run the heater....You dont have proper Water Flow or you dont have good Air Flow....do you have a fan clutch? If you do...while the car is off....see if you can turn the fan freely.....it should spin easily without binding....

[GSXRJJordan]

UPDATE: I noticed if I run the heater on full blast when it starts to heat up, I'll just low rev it--around 2500--it will start to return to normal. Once I start pounding it though it'll rise again. GRRR!

Also, when I press on the gas, feels like I'm losing power till I hit higher rpm. Hesitates at low rpm. Boost leak? I don't feel the turbo kicking in afterb it fully spools too...

Aloha ~ which island you on?

The stock KA radiator isn't the greatest thing in the world for a turbo car (turbo creates a TON of heat). Getting a better radiator and an oil cooler will help you tremendously. I assume you're still running the stock clutch fan off the water pump? Make sure if you are that you've got the plastic radiator shroud on there.

As far as your powerband, I'd check timing first.

[silentcovenant]

I'm from Oahu. I have a fan shroud, fan spins freely. I'll be replacing that radiator soon, any relatively low priced suggestions? Low on cash.

I hear a loud whistling when driving, I'm assuming its a boost leak. Whistles even when the wastegate is spooling so I'm sure its not the wastegate--total noob to turbos. I gotta test it soon, I have no compressor though.. what to you guys suggest?

[Andres_G]

Go with a Mishimoto radiator. Their warranty is awesome! They claimed they replaced a guys radiator because he dropped it and it cracked!

[silentcovenant]

Noticing when I step on the gas and the turbo is spooling it feels as if the car is hesitating.. when I let off the gas is when I feel the car push slightly before slowing down.

This is driving me nuts guys, what could it be? The turbo must be spooling since its so loud. I can hear it screaming over my blasting music and the wind! Aaaahhhhhhh!

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[GSXRJJordan]

Sounds like a boost leak.

[spools420a]

[quote=silentcovenant;3454090]It seems the intercooler is holding boost now, finally.. but now it has a strange overheating issue. Usually shows up when driving on the freeway or when I decide to pound it. Smells like somethings burning when it starts heating up. Usually goes to about 3/4 temp before I pull off to the side and let it idle. Usually that'll bring it down. Its bothering me, any ideas? I don't see anything leaking, I could be wrong though. Total noob here, had my friend do the swap so he knows all the engine stuff. I'm still learning.

Coolant levels look good, the reserviour is filled, don't there there are any bubbles, don't hear anything when its running or turn off. Used to hear bubbling then I bled it.[/



[spools420a]
Again you say "your not sure if anythings leaking"

Go to auto zone or harbor freight and purchase a radiator system pressurizer there less then $10 bucks and place it on the radiator filler,pressure up the coolant system to the same psi the radiator cap says(for best results remove thermostat but not nessasary)Once pressurized pinch the coolant over flow line then look for leaks anywhere you can think of If the pressure drops ie.. head gasket/water pump/hoses/heater core ect.,locate the leak,If pressure stays the same test the radiator cap.What you said is you smell something burning?Is that a sweat smell like coolant?If you smell this with the heater on its more then likeley the heater core suspect.

another test if you purchase the pressurizer is start the car with no pressure in the system yet with the prssurizer installed on the radiator filler,watch the pressure builds to around 7ish psi at running temp this is normal,But if the pressure builds up quick to around 15psi then theres usually a leak in the innerds of the head gasket comming from the cylinder building pressure.



Also this
also part of bleeding the bubbles from the radiator you need to turn your heater on so the bi pass valve opens and releives air from the heater core as well otherwise the air is trapped.Did you try that when you bled the system?