Engine Oil Analysis and Fuel Grades

[HemiCharger]

Alright fellow zilvian's this thread is devoted to the types and grades of engine oil and gas that we run in our cars. I personally run Shell V- Power and Mobile 1 full syn in my 240. Has anyone done any oil analysis and or perform one brand of gas over another. A new web site that deals with this in great detail is,


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[HemiCharger]

no one wants to learn more about this? the shop that did my tune --sent a bunch of oil off for an analysis and one was Royal Purple. It did not do as well in the analysis of protection as Castrol and Mobile.

I looked at all oil filters for our sr20 swapped cars and have found the best one for me to run is a Wix part number 51365 for an s14 sr20det. The WIX was the only one out of Mobile, K&N and Bosch that has more oil holes in it like the factory Nissan one and resembles the NISMO filter I ran for a while plus it is made in the USA. They are a little bit smaller than the normal sr ones and holds a little higher oil pressure which is goodf for cam guys since it provides enough for the valve train.

[VQMaxFan]

Allot of this isn't exactly new man, especially seeing as how BITOG has been around for quite some time.

But for the sake of the thread I run Syn. Rotella T 5w40 and I usually use a pure one filter for a sohc KA on my s13 sr. I prefer chevron gasoline.

[Options13]

hmm i know there are different types of TIER's when it comes to oil tier 1, tier 2, tier 3, ect..

redline and amsoil fall under tier 5, which is better isn't it?

i think mobile 1 and all the other sythetic oils at your local autoparts store fall under tier 3 or 4.. correct me if i'm wrong

[HemiCharger]

hmm i know there are different types of TIER's when it comes to oil tier 1, tier 2, tier 3, ect..

redline and amsoil fall under tier 5, which is better isn't it?

i think mobile 1 and all the other sythetic oils at your local autoparts store fall under tier 3 or 4.. correct me if i'm wrong


think so but I am going to have some oil analysis done and report the results here after say 3 thousand miles on 18.5 lbs of boost -- I am sure the fuel levels will be higher than normal but I am interested in trace materials analysis specifically. If I should do it sooner or not somebody let me know. I figure all 340+whp srs here change their oil at least every three thousand miles.

I think I will do it with some Mobile 1 which I run now and then some Amsoil 10w 30 and 10w 40 to see what does better this should definitely help us all out.

[Slidin' Sam]

I run mobile 1 oil w/ a pitwork filter on my sr. It gets changed about ever month to month and a half (usually 2-3 races and the occassional touge). Eneos for fuel. :) Oh, s14 sr btw.

[lazysk8er2]

heres some stuff already covered in this forum just to ease the search hungry souls

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/309701-what-oil-viscosities-does-everyone-use-between-seasons.html

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/296603-oil-faq.html

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/197667-oil-thread.html

i run a mobile 1 filter and anything thats 10-40 synthetic blend.

[HemiCharger]

heres some stuff already covered in this forum just to ease the search hungry souls

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/309701-what-oil-viscosities-does-everyone-use-between-seasons.html

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/296603-oil-faq.html

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/197667-oil-thread.html

i run a mobile 1 filter and anything thats 10-40 synthetic blend.


all that is great information but really does nothing to quantify what oils actually do what when it comes to wear. I have the first Oil Analyzers kit in and will have my Mobile 1 analyzed with particle counts. This should show the whole community what it does and does not do. I also plan to get some Amsol 10w30 and run the same test on it. Should be interesting.

[mattsil80wis]

I figure all 340+whp srs here change their oil at least every three thousand miles.


or just normal people that properly maintain their vehicle

[codyace]

I always laugh at stop/go commmuters cars run 10-150 miles daily on teh cheapest oil and filters, and go 200k without issue, yet some guys change their oil every 2000 miles and they don't last 50k.

These oil analysis things may show you whats best, but reality is: What works. All of them. It's not like your engine is going to blow up on Castrol with a Fram filter any easier/less than Mobil One and A Nissan Filter.

[jspaeth]

or just normal people that properly maintain their vehicle

I run Mobil 1 10w-30 Extended Performace....SUPPOSED to last for 15,000 miles, but since I occasionally beat on the car, I change it every 3,000 miles.

If you daily drive your 240 and it's mostly just regular driving, changing every 3,000 miles is just overkill and insane in my opinion, especially with the quality of today's oil.

I always laugh at stop/go commmuters cars run 10-150 miles daily on teh cheapest oil and filters, and go 200k without issue, yet some guys change their oil every 2000 miles and they don't last 50k.

These oil analysis things may show you whats best, but reality is: What works. All of them. It's not like your engine is going to blow up on Castrol with a Fram filter any easier/less than Mobil One and A Nissan Filter.

Haha. Yeah, I use the Mobil 1 Extended Performance SR filter, which is super duper teensy weensy.....probably should do a oil filter relocation if I am ever going to track it, huh?

[HemiCharger]

yeah but those people getting awesome mileage on Wal mart oil are also not increasing their horsepower by 200 - 300 over stock. They also are not betting the crap out of it at track and street events. This all increases engine wear. Oil Analysis is done by race teams so it has to show you what is going on in your engine. Things you can not see. Additionally it could be a setup to make Amsol look so much better than x or y products?

[mattsil80wis]

I run Mobil 1 10w-30 Extended Performace....SUPPOSED to last for 15,000 miles, but since I occasionally beat on the car, I change it every 3,000 miles.

If you daily drive your 240 and it's mostly just regular driving, changing every 3,000 miles is just overkill and insane in my opinion, especially with the quality of today's oil.

my car is daily driven but it takes a beating everywhere it goes...ask cody

that is why i change it every 3k....i run the Mobil 1 10w-30



Haha. Yeah, I use the Mobil 1 Extended Performance SR filter, which is super duper teensy weensy.....probably should do a oil filter relocation if I am ever going to track it, huh?

you dont really need the oil filter relocation kit for going to the track...most ppl do it so they can run extra lines to an oil cooler and for the easy of changing the oil while at the track....nothing like trying to reach under the IM while the motor is hot, while you could just relocate it to a nice "cool" place

[jspaeth]

you dont really need the oil filter relocation kit for going to the track...most ppl do it so they can run extra lines to an oil cooler and for the easy of changing the oil while at the track....nothing like trying to reach under the IM while the motor is hot, while you could just relocate it to a nice "cool" place

True, but with the Greddy intake mani, changing the filter is SO easy now....that alone makes it worth the purchase haha

Trying to get to the filter with the OEM manifold was a pain in the rectum

[mattsil80wis]

True, but with the Greddy intake mani, changing the filter is SO easy now....that alone makes it worth the purchase haha

Trying to get to the filter with the OEM manifold was a pain in the rectum

oh i know that...no more cut up hands its great...but you also have to think you than have all that oil draining onto the subframe area...not so good cuz you dont wanna leak that on track when you go out for a session

[codyace]

yeah but those people getting awesome mileage on Wal mart oil are also not increasing their horsepower by 200 - 300 over stock. They also are not betting the crap out of it at track and street events. This all increases engine wear. Oil Analysis is done by race teams so it has to show you what is going on in your engine. Things you can not see. Additionally it could be a setup to make Amsol look so much better than x or y products?

The ITA car ran on SuperTech and the cheapest Wix filters for 2 years until it blew up. Made 150whp on stock junk. I guess we shoulda used AMSOIL it woulda lasted even longer :bowrofl:

The point is, any 'race team' is going to run decent stuff - your car is not a 'race car' by any stretch of the imagination.



Haha. Yeah, I use the Mobil 1 Extended Performance SR filter, which is super duper teensy weensy.....probably should do a oil filter relocation if I am ever going to track it, huh?

I run the larger oil filter for two reasons

1. I planned on an oil cooler but never saw high temps with just the filter relocation.

2. Extra capacity

It's not needed, but SR's are VERY oil dependent engines (Well that seems kinda dumb to say, but moreso than most). I run a larger greddy pan, and still over fill it a tad just in case --the last thing I want is that pickup running 'dry' when hard cornering.

[Bigsyke]

OP how is your FE? A UOA doesnt really show whats truely going on (aside from showing M1's high Iron wear). Its just not a good resource for wear. Some engines like certain oils, and there are a lot of variables. One thing ive learned since my oil faq was KA's like alot of ZddP. This means a non energy conserving oil like Rotella T6 or a boutique oil. Now the fuel situation shouldnt matter unless your running concentrated amounts of PEA in the fuel. PEA is found in products like Gumout Regane Complete fuel system cleaner, Amsoil PI, Redline S-1, and IIRC chevron techron fuel system cleaner. PEA is the only cleaner that usually lasts the combustion process, which is why they reccomend only using redline S-1 once every 3k miles. Fuel dilution issues would cause additional concern, which means it doesnt matter which type of fuel you run. I think Octane rating would have alot bigger effect on a UOA than type of fuel. If your concerned about fuel dilution, run an ester based oil like Redline or RLI. Short term fuel dilution can be kept to a minimum by not running an oil cooler, running an oil that stays within a reasonable Cst @100*c, and consistantly getting your oil above 100*c.
IMO any nissan engine before 2004, needs a SH non energy conserving oil. Were running rich, hotter, more valvetrain shock, more aggressive cams, hotter cylinders- and API energy conserving oil wont cut it. Even redline has slimmed their addpack. I switched to rotella T6. Its SL rated, but has 1200 ppm of Zddp, and is quite robust. I also use 1/2 bottle of lubromoly MoS2. which Uses an insoluble version of redlines MoTDC.

Oh and OP the oil filter makes no difference if the ADBV isnt sealing. And of the hundreds of filters ive blown into before purchasing, only PureONE's PL20195 made a seal every time. The Wix filter is garbage just like their air filters. Its safe to say there is a proven oil filter that is consistently better and cheaper than every other filter out there by a long shot, and thats PureOne

[codyace]

OP how is your FE? A UOA doesnt really show whats truely going on (aside from showing M1's high Iron wear). Its just not a good resource for wear. Some engines like certain oils, and there are a lot of variables. One thing ive learned since my oil faq was KA's like alot of ZddP. This means a non energy conserving oil like Rotella T6 or a boutique oil.

IMO any nissan engine before 2004, needs a SH non energy conserving oil. Were running rich, hotter, more valvetrain shock, more aggressive cams, hotter cylinders- and API energy conserving oil wont cut it. Even redline has slimmed their addpack. I switched to rotella T6. Its SL rated, but has 1200 ppm of Zddp, and is quite robust. I also use 1/2 bottle of lubromoly MoS2. which Uses an insoluble version of redlines MoTDC.

Oh and OP the oil filter makes no difference if the ADBV isnt sealing. And of the hundreds of filters ive blown into before purchasing, only PureONE's PL20195 made a seal every time. The Wix filter is garbage just like their air filters. Its safe to say there is a proven oil filter that is consistently better and cheaper than every other filter out there by a long shot, and thats PureOne.

While this is certainly great information to learn/note, why is it that their are plenty of exampels going totally against what you discribe, without issue or worry?

This is why I said, there is a huge difference between perfect, and 'works'. Sure that may involve cutting corners (and not to take away from your research as it's somtehing I will now read more upon), but at the end of the day, I don't see a 'street car' (regardless of mods/tuning) really requiring much more than a average commuter car that sits in 30 miles of traffic everyday.

[Bigsyke]

What examples do you have? Sure I could run M1 0w30 and have my engine last 200k, but thats living the engines life in the danger zone when the oil's Cst is below 10. An average commuter car usually wont see the oil temps ours will, im sure in traffic the commuter's oil temp is right around the temp of the coolant. Not only that, we're running richer than average, blow by is much higher, we have a smaller sump capacity than average, a hydrolic timing tensioner, hydrolic tappet lifters instead of rollers (ka), we see higher low RPM loads, and we tend to kill the additive package quickly.

Nissan engines like Zddp/Mo and high calcium. Valvoline maxlife on altima KA's have produced great UOA's due to the almost HDEO additive package. This is why I now use Rotella T6. Read around BITOG on all the Newer nissan engines, they shred oil. I do not feel totally comfortable running a emissions friendly oil, in a car with no emissions.

[Josh7X]

Has anybody ran Eneo's oil? I'm going to change my oil today, and am going to pick some up.

[stinky_180]

^you will be soon. Let us know what your 'analysis' is with that motor oil.