s13 (stalling issue) HELP!!!!***

[SMM]

Basically the car will stall out, it will start and idle for about 15 seconds then sputter and die. When it dies out its sort of like when you cover the throttle body so no air gets in and the motor just dies out.

You have to rev it up to about 2k and slide the clutch to get going without it stalling. Then while driving it will randomly sputter all throughout the rpms. It will drive fine, but sometimes will sputter mainly on acceleration.

Parts I have changed so far....
-Dizzy cap
-Spark plugs
-Spark plug wires (except wire for ignitor)
-Mass Air Flow Sensor
-Checked grounds

Parts I am going to change...
-Coolant temp sensor
-Fuel filter
-Dizzy
-Ignitor/wire
-Fuel pump
-Ecu
-Injectors


Any other ideas?


Car is stock. Not throwing a check engine light.

[Z U L8R]

i guess , post back up an update after you replace all those things if you're still having a problem

dave

[SMM]

^ Did those.

-Changed fuel filter today and CTS didnt help, that is all I had time to do.

Something I cannot figure out is, when the maf is plugged in it always wants to stall. But when I unplug it the car idles normal and doesnt want to stall out. Drives around fine with maf unplugged, but since its in limp mode it wont go past 2.5k rpms.

I thought maybe it was the MAF, changed it with another known good working one same problem. Then I looked at the MAF plug, it has a very tight connection and nothing seems loose.

On the plug it has 4 slots but only 3 wires. The MAF also has 4 pins if I remember correctly (not sure). But the harness to the plug doesnt look like it has ever been touched.



Thanks for all your help Dave. Good to have a forum member like you, someone with knowledge willing to help. :bigok:

[Z U L8R]

definitely sounds like a maf problem. test and see if you have continuity from the maf plug to the ecu on both the signal wire and the sensor ground wire. also make sure you don't have continuity to each other, because since the maf wiring has to be extended, it's possible that in the harness the wires are touching each other. so testing continuity should deduce any of that as a possibility.

also make sure your black/white striped wire to the maf is getting ignition 12 volts.......it's the same wire as your cam angle sensor and ecu so because your car starts there should be no reason it's not getting power unless it's a bad connection where it got extended.

basically this will eliminate the maf wiring as the culprit.

the other possibility is you could have a vacuum/boost leak after the maf so double check all your couplers, vacuum lines, and hoses.

hope you find the problem therein, gl and post back the results, and thanks for the compliment

it's nice to hear that SOMEONE on this forum appreciates free diagnostics LOL i kid i kid.

gl,

Dave

[SMM]

The car is stock (KA24DE), I am a little confused because you said something about the wiring being extended.

Also how do I go about checking continuity? I am a super newb and dont know much about it. I do know basic things.

I am assuming get a voltage meter and wiring diagram and test the wires on ecu side and maf side?

[Z U L8R]

sorry, i thought you had an sr swap in there for some reason. i was wondering why you said "dizzie" lol , now i know why :)

your maf wires aren't extended and you don't have intercooler couplers to check, but everything else still applies.

you are correct, continuity will test that it is a continious circuit from one end to the other, the signal wire and sensor ground at the maf plug run all the way to the ecu and should not have continuity with anything else or any other wires when you have the maf and ecu unplugged.

you are correct again, get yourself a digital multimeter. you can get a cheap/decent one for 20-30 bucks from wallmart or the parts store.

set it to the continuity setting, some may have the "ohm" symbol with a little speaker symbol. basically once it's in continuity setting, if you touch the two probes together you'll hear the multimeter beep at you.
http://www.firehow.com/images/stories/users/166/digital%20multimeter%20continuity%20test.jpg

so you wanna hear the beep from the signal wire from the maf to the ecu, and the same with the sensor ground. but if you put your probe on the sensor ground and the maf signal, they should not have continuity with each other or they are touching somewhere.

now since you have a multimeter you can put it on the volt setting and make sure your black/white wire has 12 volt power when the key is in the ignition ON position.
http://www.firehow.com/images/stories/users/166/test%20battery%20with%20multimeter.jpg

hope that helps,

Dave

[SMM]

Makes perfect sense. I guess friday since I dont have class I will go buy a meter and check it out and post the results.

since im lazy which wires are what? hahaha

I think it has these 3 colored wires.
-White
-Black
-Black and white


Again thanks for the help.

[SMM]

Have not had a chance to get that meter yet.

However I did change out the ecu with 2 known working ones. Still same problem.

[SMM]

Possible IACV?

Going to check the electrical tomm seeing as I finally have time

[240driftr]

i had the same problem with my sr. i took the iac out completly an it kinda helped. than i found out that it was my tps that was bad the car wanted to idle but aslo wanted to stall. if ur havin trouble tryin to find a vaccum leak spray carb an choke cleaner on all ur vaccum lines. but with the car not going passed 2500 than that deff sounds like a maf. sorry if im a lil late with the info. let me know how everything turns out.

[SMM]

It will only not go past 2500 rpm with maf unplugged. Which is normal because it is in limp mode. If I can get going with the MAF plugged in it will randomly sputter.

Today here is what I accomplished.

-Made sure timing was 100% on the money. Perfect.
-Changed out entire engine harness with a known working one off a running car (my buddies)
-Unplugged IACV to see if it did anything, same problem.

Still having the same problem.

[SoguRacing]

check for a vacuum leak. or give me the readings from a vacuum gauge.

[SMM]

No really familiar with doing a vacuum leak test. Any tips before I search?

Going to swap out IACV and TPS next.

As far as I can tell I do not have any vaccuum leaks. But who knows maybe a line has a crack.

I dont understand how it would idle fine with MAF unplugged though if I had a bad enough vacuum leak.

[SMM]

So I just went out and fiddled with some things. I screwed in the screw on the side of the IACV all the way in. I also connected a few new vacuum hose up.

It idles at around 650 but it seems like it wants to stall but wont. This is with maf plugged in. I took it for a drive and it is bogging down then it will start going normal then again more bogging. Sometimes it will drive so so then start bogging.

I really think its the TPS, I am getting one off a friend when I have some time.


Also. This little black box to the left of the power steering resevoir has a ricer filter on it. Obviously this little black box from the factory has a vacuum line that hook up to the intake pipe.

Just wonder if this should be reconnected? I believe it has to do with egr, which I plan on blocking off on the back of the intake.


http://i40.tinypic.com/5x0llj.jpg

[SMM]

Anyone else think its the tps?

[Z U L8R]

you should test the tps. then you'll know for sure.

did you get a multimeter yet? basically your tps has 3 wires going to it

red = 5 volts with the key ON
black = ground at all times
white = tps signal back to the ecu.

with the key on and the throttle closed your white wire should have around .5 volts.
then as you open it the voltage should go up the more you open it because it's a rheostat. with the throttle wide open your voltage on the white wire should be around 4-5 volts. if that is the case and it tests good then go to your ecu.

at the ecu isolate your tps signal wire by looking at an ecu pinout. your throttle position signal should be pin #20 and it still should be a white wire.

check the voltage of the tps signal here as well. it should read the same as it did when you tested it at the sensor. if not then you have an open circuit and the wire is broken in between.

after you get done testing the tps. if everything checks out good, then i want you to post up what your fuel pressure is at idle.

and you know that ka's are 20 degrees advanced (the last mark on the crank pulley)?

other possible causes could be a bad knock sensor, and it's pulling timing which can make the car slow as balls etc. it also could be a bad o2 sensor messing with the a/f ratio.

i know you said your check engine light isn't on but have you put the ecu in self-test mode and seen it blink code 55 meaning everything's good?

do that too. once you do these things, post back up with your results. stop guessing and throwing parts at your car. if you test you will find your problem.

always test, never guess.

your next post should have

1. tps test results at the sensor and at the ecu.
2. your fuel pressure at idle
3. what code(s) your ecu blinked at you.

Dave

[SMM]

How do I test the codes?

[SMM]

Maf readings

Black/White wire = 12.27
White =. 002

(black needle from multimeter on solid black then red on the other 2 individually)


TPS readings key turned to ON:

White throttle closed=.467
White w/ throttle open= 4.232
Red = 5.116 constant



Looking for ecu pinout now so I can test on that side. I do not have a way to test fuel pressure.

[SMM]

I also replaced distributor with a known working one today. Something I have noticed while driving with MAF plugged in is, when you give it about half throttle it will bog down then when you start backing out of the throttle slowly it starts driving normal

[SMM]

So here is an updated list of things I have done so far.



Things I have done so far to trouble shoot the problem:

Coolant temp sensor
3 working ecu's
3 working MAF's
New spark plug wires
New spark plugs
New rotor cap on dizzy
Timing is 100 percent dead on
Changed out distributor with another working one
Cleaned IACV
Replaced TPS
Tested voltage for TPS open and closed = GOOD
Voltage for MAF GOOD
Changed out engine harness from a running car
Checked mechanical timing= PERFECT
Checked all vacuum lines 10 times

Still same damn problem. Sputter all throughout the RPM range. I have noticed these 2 things:

If you are at half throttle it bogs if you slowly back out it starts accelerating fine.

Also it bogs really really bad when cold.



Trying knock sensor and 02 sensor tomorrow. Can I just hook the knock sensor up anywhere or does it have to be in that spot?


It feels like my cat is clogged also, you will hear a pop pop sometimes. Also the fumes from it running so rich are almost overwhelming (possible exhaust leak)

So tomorrows list:
02 Sensor
Knock Sensor
Remove cat
Fuel Pump
Injectors
Check maf and tps voltage at ecu

If the problem still persists, I am going to lose my damn mind. I do not know what else it could possibly be.

[Z U L8R]

i don't know why you keep spending money on parts, you can get a fuel pressure tester for $20.

casting my vote at the rubber hose on the top of the fuel pump that connects the pump to the sending unit assembly, or a fuel injector/o-ring.

Dave

[army240]

Do tests, then change parts... changing parts is not a test...

[SMM]

I didnt spend a single dollar on a part actually. I have about 10 parts cars.

Anyways. I appreciate everyones help.


The problem was a clogged fuel pump sock. It was green/black. I have no idea if also the pump was failing. I inspected the gas tank it looks clean. I guess over 215,000 miles the sock just got so clogged.

I put my 255 walboro I had laying around in and it runs like a champ now.

[Z U L8R]

:)

gj sir, just think, a $20 fuel pressure tester would've saved you all that trouble :P

couldn't help myself :D

glad you fixed it, take it ez

Dave

[SMM]

^ Ya go figure hahaha.