what oil viscosities does everyone use between seasons

[Geezy]

wasn't really sure where to post this question, but i'm sure it could be used as a poll questionnaire as well as to find answers for something.
FLAMESUITE ON.

but here's what i got.

I live in Las Vegas, where the weather can actually reach its extremes.
for the winter i'm running Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 10w30 on a SR redtop, t25, stock/lightly moded.

She is daily driven. and i aint even gonna bullshit, i do plenty of spirited driving.

Question/looking for suggestions. The heat is just around the corner and i'm trying to figure out what oil to use. daytime temps here can hit 110-120F. should i stick with 10w30? move to 10w40 or 15w40? i know some of these weights are extreme and can strain oil pumps and turbos. just lookin to see what you people are runnin.

[[email protected] Imports]

Likely not a good comparison as our climates are completely different but I will post anyways to give an idea!

Calgary Alberta.
Engine: 2JZ & RB26

Summer - 68F to 95F
Amsoil Dominator 15w50

I always do an oil flush between seasons with the new oil I am going to use. Just personal preference.

Winter - -13F to 32F
Amsoil Synthetic 0w20


For your climate you could likely get away with a medium to thick oil all year round, so I really wouldn't be worried about it. In a climate like mine however the gtr would barely start in the winter with 15w50 and would likely spin a bearing sooner than later.

[Geezy]

yeah, oil flush is a personal preference. my motor however wasn't rebuilt, decked, or cleaned. straight swap in right after it got here. lol. i wouldn't do it unless i wanted leaks to start popping up everywhere.

i do run her hard, pull through the gears, and hit the limiter from time to time. thats why i'm so cautious and curious as to what oil to run in the hot months. god forbid i spin a bearing like i did to my KA.

[D.Adams]

i use 15w-40 mobile delvac all year in my sr20 best oil in my opinion. its a diesel oil but works really well in gas turbo motors. dosnt brake down and i know some people who run it that are in Pro Am F/D and they love it.

you live in LV not to far from me and i know how hot it gets there and here. i would run 15w-40 for our locations. in cali i would step down to 10w-30 during winter.

trust me when its 120 out this oil is the shit.

i hope this helps

here is a post i made in this thread that made me choose mobile delvac over any other oil that you can get anywhere.

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/265489-wix-filters-suck-2.html

[Geezy]

i was thinking the same thing with the 15w40... but as far as lubrication and the turbo... its stock... i have no fear of that oil breaking down at high temps... but what about oil pump and turbo strain???

[D.Adams]

i was thinking the same thing with the 15w40... but as far as lubrication and the turbo... its stock... i have no fear of that oil breaking down at high temps... but what about oil pump and turbo strain???


im running a stock t25 rite now. i didn't lose any oil presure on my guage and from all the info i have got on the oil it wont strain anything. i have ran this oil for the last 2 years or so and i have had no change at all. other than my motor runing way smoother and i have no valve tick anymore.


on cold mornings i let my car warm up for 5 - 10 min because its viscosity

[Geezy]

hmm... sounds like its worth a shot to try then. thats a number of things im lacking are gauges (oil pressure/temp, boost, air/fuel, etc etc)

but you said it was a turbo diesel oil that you were runnin??

[D.Adams]

hmm... sounds like its worth a shot to try then. thats a number of things im lacking are gauges (oil pressure/temp, boost, air/fuel, etc etc)

but you said it was a turbo diesel oil that you were runnin??


yea thats what i thought when i was reading up on it after the mobile 1 teck told me about it.

but it works and my friend runs it in his rb25 and only changes it about every 5 events.

the only gauges i have are oil / water temp / boost.. they change everything about watching your motor and how its working.

if you want to see how well it does i can meet you in searchlite and you can test my car thats how much i like this oil .

[revat619]

I'm in San Diego, I run 10w30 all year. I've contributed nothing. Carry on.

[D.Adams]

I'm in San Diego, I run 10w30 all year. I've contributed nothing. Carry on.


you SD boys are a lil crazy

[Z U L8R]

10W-30 CASTROL GTX ftmfw!

10w-40 for a really hot summer and i'm beating the hell outta the motor.

Dave

[Soup Nazi]

Castrol syntec European formula 0W-30 all year in NJ.

[g6civcx]

The heat is just around the corner and i'm trying to figure out what oil to use. daytime temps here can hit 110-120F. should i stick with 10w30? move to 10w40 or 15w40? i know some of these weights are extreme and can strain oil pumps and turbos. just lookin to see what you people are runnin.

My general rule of thumb is with stock engines, stick with the manufacturer's recommendation.

Once you start modding your engine, check with your engine builder.

If you build your own engines, you should already know which viscosity to use.

[codyace]

Mobile 1, 15w-50

Debating on switching to Rotella 15w-40 as that's what we use at the shop for our big trucks.

[jspaeth]

Mobile 1, 15w-50

Debating on switching to Rotella 15w-40 as that's what we use at the shop for our big trucks.


I live in the same climate as you, if not a little south, so warmer.

Was wondering if you wouldn't mind explaing why you use such a heavy oil?

I am running 10w-30 year round, no problems starting it in the winter...I ALSO run Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 oil filter.

[codyace]

I used to run 10w30 in the car, until on track my buddy (turbo Sentra guy) commented on my oil pressure of being 'kinda low' after coming in off track. I never thought twice, but it was like 5-10ish after a good hard session. This was also on new oil (I always put new oil in for a track day).


He commented to run 15w50 as it wouldnt' break down as fast (obviously) and withstands the heat better. I literally drained the oil over lunch break (as it's followed by the beginner groups) went to a local walmart, bought the 15w50, and by the time the upper groups were ready to go (for me) I had it all buttoned back up and ready. Sure as hell my oil pressure was higher all around, and when done with session it was in the 15 range. After the 2nd session on the new oil it was the same. From then on I was sold. Sure in October-March mornings it may be a little noisey, but it's not harming anything.

Filter wise I used to run the OEM filter (53joo) but I went to a Ford FL-1A filter 2 years ago (big filter, used on 302/351)

[g6civcx]

Agreed on the filtre. I run the big Ford one as well.

[garagelu]

Filter wise I used to run the OEM filter (53joo) but I went to a Ford FL-1A filter 2 years ago (big filter, used on 302/351)

Does the Ford FL-1A screw directly onto the sr oil block? Or are you using this on a relocation kit?

I'm using a toyota filter (forgot the part number) for a scion tc. Its the same dimensions as the stock sr filter but about an inch longer. It screws onto the sr oil block directly and been using it for at least a year or two.

[codyace]

Agreed on the filtre. I run the big Ford one as well.

Suprirzed you're not using a SBC one ;) hehe just teasin ya

Does the Ford FL-1A screw directly onto the sr oil block? Or are you using this on a relocation kit?

Using a Perma-Cool relocation kit (from summit) that takes the Ford Style Filter. For an oil block, I'm using a CS one, with the fittings welded in (I don't trust o-ring boss fittings.

Not a good pic, but you can see it up there on the passenger side frame rail
http://www.codyace.com/albums/album141/1320_36.sized.jpg


I'm using a toyota filter (forgot the part number) for a scion tc. Its the same dimensions as the stock sr filter but about an inch longer. It screws onto the sr oil block directly and been using it for at least a year or two.

Good to know! Never knew of it

[R_G]

Castrol syntec European formula 0W-30 all year in NJ.
:coold:
Yes,sir.I run the same oil. Very good oil , fully synthetic and inexpensive. compare to other oil brands.

[Z U L8R]

s13 sr20 i use the dohc KA24DE PPL24457's cause it's way bigger than sentra se-r one. same filter for RB's and VG's

s14 and s15 sr's i believe are 14610 or 14612's, little bitty filter's

Dave

[Geezy]

lol. suddenly we moved on to talking about filters. lets not stray too far off topic. still lookin to see what people are runnin during different seasons.

but here's a question, why run different filters for different motors instead of running a higher quality filter made for your motor??


hey S13bdafocker, you ever make it out to the Vegas Drift events and meets??


if you want to see how well it does i can meet you in searchlite and you can test my car thats how much i like this oil .

[Z U L8R]

lol. suddenly we moved on to talking about filters. lets not stray too far off topic. still lookin to see what people are runnin during different seasons.

but here's a question, why run different filters for different motors instead of running a higher quality filter made for your motor??


hey S13bdafocker, you ever make it out to the Vegas Drift events and meets??


better filtration or higher capacity

higher capacity means more oil in the system. more oil means cooler temps since it can dissipate the heat better.

i'm just gonna say it....i have never had good luck with synthetic in these motors. theoretically it should be better...but for some reason the stock turbo's don't last as long. why? i don't know. synthetic has a higher "coking" temp than conventional, but i see oil seals blow more often, as well as oil seeping out of gaskets/seals more commonly....

maybe because it's too fine or something. maybe it's magical micro lubricants. maybe it's just coincedence...i don't know.

i change my oil every 2,000 miles or less on anything boosted.

castrol gtx ftmfw, with that i don't get these problems,

and i don't trust thin oil's

my .02

Dave

[AS240]

synthetic rotella 5w-40 in my Rb25 year round
gets to 40F in the winter and about 105F in the summer.
badass oil. have never had any problems with it

[g6civcx]

Suprirzed you're not using a SBC one

I already installed a filter relocation so I can run an oil cooler, but after the relocation I found that my oil temp was doing well so I never bothered running a cooler.

The lines act like a cooler so that helps a lot with oil temp.

Good to know! Never knew of it

All you need to know is the thread pitch. If the canister has the correct circumference then you can use whatever filter you want.

K&N is nice enough to list the thread pitch for you on their filters. You can pick the one you like and check to see if you have the clearance.

[slider2828]

I run 10-30 Redline.... By far the best oil for my turbo application. I live in norcal so its like 40F the coldest and 95F the hottest.

Hey Cody what you mean by 5 ish and 15ish, is that PSI? Cause I rarely ever get that low... But new redline goes in before track day and come out after track day all the time.....

[Geezy]

better filtration or higher capacity

higher capacity means more oil in the system. more oil means cooler temps since it can dissipate the heat better.

i'm just gonna say it....i have never had good luck with synthetic in these motors. theoretically it should be better...but for some reason the stock turbo's don't last as long. why? i don't know. synthetic has a higher "coking" temp than conventional, but i see oil seals blow more often, as well as oil seeping out of gaskets/seals more commonly....

maybe because it's too fine or something. maybe it's magical micro lubricants. maybe it's just coincedence...i don't know.

i change my oil every 2,000 miles or less on anything boosted.

castrol gtx ftmfw, with that i don't get these problems,

and i don't trust thin oil's

my .02

Dave


i haven't had a problem yet with running full synthetic. pray to god i never do. i might be getting a little bit of blow by somewhere though. somewhere behind the factory "oil catch" whatever you wanna call that thing. looks like its time for an upgrade.

yeah, i change mine every 2500-3000 miles. and i check my oil at least 2-3 times a week. so you're running a synthetic blend then??

[Z U L8R]

no blend, just regular castrol gtx 10-30 and 10-40 when it's really hot outside and i'm beating the crap outta the motor.

i don't like synthetic (in these turbo nissan motors)

that's just my opinion and experiences. i have no scientific facts that conventional does anything better than synthetics, in fact there's probably scientific evidence of the contrary.....

"experience by far is the best teacher......but a fool will learn no other way" -Tim-

in my experience, i see oil related issues with synthetic and don't with normal good oil.

if these motors were built to run synthetic from the factory then duh, i'd say run synthetic...but they weren't....so i don't.

to me it's like running synthetic in a small block chevy that was built, designed, and machine spec'd out to run conventional oil.

but yeah, i see more seals leak, more turbo's blow, more BLOW BY with synthetic than regular.

try castrol gtx next oil change and see if your blow by gets worse or better.....it won't hurt to try.

Dave

[Geezy]

yeah, it wouldn't hurt to try. you got any 2cents on castrol's synthetic blend?? and would i be in any trouble switching from full synthetic to conventional? thats why im asking about the blend.

anybody else want to add their 2cents about the oils they're running?!?!?!

[garagelu]

if these motors were built to run synthetic from the factory then duh, i'd say run synthetic...but they weren't....so i don't.

to me it's like running synthetic in a small block chevy that was built, designed, and machine spec'd out to run conventional oil.


Dave

Do you really think when nissan engineers picked the oil viscocity or deciding whether to run synthetic or conventional for this engine that they considered that we would be modifying these engines and pushing much more hp and torque over stock?

Its proven over a wide range of applications that synthetic outperforms a conventional oil.

[codyace]

I already installed a filter relocation so I can run an oil cooler, but after the relocation I found that my oil temp was doing well so I never bothered running a cooler.

Same here - I just found it odd that you (with a SBC) use a Ford filter hehe. Maybe its' just me lol!

But yes, a normal relocation kit IMO satifies most engines -- but i'm no engineer either.






All you need to know is the thread pitch. If the canister has the correct circumference then you can use whatever filter you want.

Certainly, just nice to know the info without seraching for it. Spoon fed baby! (just kidddding!).




Hey Cody what you mean by 5 ish and 15ish, is that PSI? Cause I rarely ever get that low... But new redline goes in before track day and come out after track day all the time.....

This is at idle, after a long session (30min or so). Your oil will be way low...around 10 or so. The 15w50 provided higher oil pressure, and even upon change at end of day, didn't have that same 'beat' smell. I shoulda really sent it away to AOAP for analysis, but I figure they'd catch on.

[[email protected] Imports]

yeah, oil flush is a personal preference. my motor however wasn't rebuilt, decked, or cleaned. straight swap in right after it got here. lol. i wouldn't do it unless i wanted leaks to start popping up everywhere.

Think we have 2 totally different outlooks on what an oil flush is haha I am just talking basic... removing filter, dropping old oil, putting new oil & filter in, idling for like 5 minutes then removing filter, drop old oil, and putting new oil & filter in.

[Z U L8R]

Do you really think when nissan engineers picked the oil viscocity or deciding whether to run synthetic or conventional for this engine that they considered that we would be modifying these engines and pushing much more hp and torque over stock?

Its proven over a wide range of applications that synthetic outperforms a conventional oil.


and i don't disagree with that at all.....scientifically, logically, and on paper it SHOULD definitely work better....but from what i've seen in the real world for the last 10 years, i see less issues with conventional 10w-30 and regular oil changes.

Dave =]

[mystacarlo]

I live in the bahamas where we have high temps year round, i run valvoline 20w50, and never had a problem.

[lazysk8er2]

and i don't disagree with that at all.....scientifically, logically, and on paper it SHOULD definitely work better....but from what i've seen in the real world for the last 10 years, i see less issues with conventional 10w-30 and regular oil changes.

Dave =]

Well I just got my car running again finally (sr20) im gonna change the oil. Its not exactly that hot around here and wont be for another few months do you think I should or could go with a non synthetic 15-50 oil.

Also I have been running synthetic for a few years but just put a new turbo in. Will the change from synthetic or non synthetic change anything in a negative way? Would it be better to run a "blend"

[Z U L8R]

you can run a blend, then the next oil after the blend run conventional.

get castrol gtx 10w-30 when you do and see if that helps with your blow by issue.

take care,

Dave

[lazysk8er2]

Thank you for your input. Also what do you consider a "regular oil change" for lets say only daily driving and seperately track sessions only.

Do you regularly change your gear oils as well? Which ones do you prefer?

I dont think I will be doing any track time or autox this year.

[PoorMans180SX]

This is at idle, after a long session (30min or so). Your oil will be way low...around 10 or so. The 15w50 provided higher oil pressure, and even upon change at end of day, didn't have that same 'beat' smell. I shoulda really sent it away to AOAP for analysis, but I figure they'd catch on.

This has a lot more to do with the 50 weight than the 15 winter weight.

I've run these:

1. 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic
2. 5w-50 Castrol Syntec
3. 2 quarts 0w-40 2 quarts 15w-50 Mobil 1
4. 0w-40 Mobil 1
5. Eneos 0w-50

in my KA24DE in the winter and the summer.

And in my experience, the Eneos made my engine smoother and more powerful than all the other oils. (This is my butt dyno, so take that into consideration). Chirping 3rd was no problem.

Then it was a draw between the Castrol 5w-50 and the Mobil 1 mix. Valvoline is good oil though.

You should realize that the "w" stands for "winter", which means that's meant for low temperatures. Anything you can do to make that number lower is going to help decrease wear on startup.

The end number is how the oil flows when it is hot. It's been proven on the dyno over and over again that numbers in the 40 and 50 range make more power. I believe BMW M5's and M6's run 10w60.

Running conventional is stupid btw. :2c:

[slider2828]

Thank you for your input. Also what do you consider a "regular oil change" for lets say only daily driving and seperately track sessions only.

Do you regularly change your gear oils as well? Which ones do you prefer?

I dont think I will be doing any track time or autox this year.

Answer is yes.... Oil is cheaper than an engine rebuild. For street driving 3500 miles and I use redline 10-30 all year around. Never gets too hot or cold in NorCal...


This has a lot more to do with the 50 weight than the 15 winter weight.

I've run these:

1. 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic
2. 5w-50 Castrol Syntec
3. 2 quarts 0w-40 2 quarts 15w-50 Mobil 1
4. 0w-40 Mobil 1
5. Eneos 0w-50

in my KA24DE in the winter and the summer.

And in my experience, the Eneos made my engine smoother and more powerful than all the other oils. (This is my butt dyno, so take that into consideration). Chirping 3rd was no problem.

Then it was a draw between the Castrol 5w-50 and the Mobil 1 mix. Valvoline is good oil though.

You should realize that the "w" stands for "winter", which means that's meant for low temperatures. Anything you can do to make that number lower is going to help decrease wear on startup.

The end number is how the oil flows when it is hot. It's been proven on the dyno over and over again that numbers in the 40 and 50 range make more power. I believe BMW M5's and M6's run 10w60.

Running conventional is stupid btw. :2c:

I run built SR and I tried 40 weights and 30 weights, and I seem to love 30 weights. Personally it depends on the engine really... All engines respond different to motor oil.

I have run, Castrol GTX, Mobil 1 (Complete Shit I might add), Eneos, Royal Purple, Redline, and Amsoil....

Hands down Amsoil is the best, but its 14 bux a quart. Best thing I ever ran in a good price range is redline. The thing makes your turbo spool much better retains heat and integrity really well. Mobil 1 never does that, Royal Purple, that is just crap, but I run it on my daily TL its better the mobile. For conventional/syn blend, Castrol GTX is the best shit on the market and good price too.

Try Redline.... Once you do, you'd never go back. You can really feel and hear the turbo spin. It lubs the turbo really well as even after you shut off my car, you can still hear the turbo spinning around. Its really nice oil after beating the crap on the track with it, it doesn't brown or smell at all. Its an awesome oil.

O BTW, Amsoil for ALL gear oils.... Its the best EVER! Amsoil Transmission and Transaxle oil for the tranny and sever gear oil 75-90 for the diffy.... It makes things very very happy. I change those oils about every 6 months to about 9 months, depends on how often I drive my car, which is not a daily.

[codyace]

Running conventional is stupid btw. :2c:

I've got a few vehicles with over 500,000 that would say otherwise....A good conventional oil, serviced regularly, won't make any difference. Granted these are in big trucks, but the point applies the same - high heat, BIG stress, and constant abuse.

These are street cars, not race cars. There are PLENTY of people with daily driven cars that see much more brutal street time, that run the cheapest of the cheap, that put more miles on their cars in traffic than some do on their 'play car' that don't have issues




Try Redline.... Once you do, you'd never go back. You can really feel and hear the turbo spin. It lubs the turbo really well as even after you shut off my car, you can still hear the turbo spinning around. Its really nice oil after beating the crap on the track with it, it doesn't brown or smell at all. Its an awesome oil.

I just can't bring myself to buying good oils. I change before and after every track session, regardless.



O BTW, Amsoil for ALL gear oils.... Its the best EVER! Amsoil Transmission and Transaxle oil for the tranny and sever gear oil 75-90 for the diffy.... It makes things very very happy. I change those oils about every 6 months to about 9 months, depends on how often I drive my car, which is not a daily.

Rotella 80w/90 in both for me. Can't beat big rig gear oil. Just as greengold as new when I change them every year.

[spiderlone]

Winter I run 10w-30 non synthetic castrol high mileage baby! Summer time I use 20w-50 castrol high mileage! Woooo. Never ever ever had any problems what so ever! with my Sr's.