sr20det no spark... help please

[nicks240sxs13]

ok. my back 2 cylinders were not firing, i found out that it was a grounding problem, my friend soldered those 2 coil's - wires togeather and it was working. my car was backfiring at higher rpm and i thought that it was those 2 coils grounding to each other or something. so i put each one to a seperate ground and blew those 2 coils. Now im not sure if those wires were even ground or not because the wires is soldered were red and go to the ignitor, but it says that they are - on the coil....
but anyways I put it back to how it originally was, and replaced a ignition sw fuse and all my car does is turn over, no spark at all. barrowed a freinds ignitor chip(he hasnt even started his swap, so im assuming its good) and it did nothing, my ecu is throwing code 55(no problem), im seeing power from the outlet side of the chip to the coils with my beeping volt meter, but getting weird signals from ecu to chip.
i Have no idea, all fuses/relays are good, power to ecu is good.

[Z U L8R]

the ignitor's going to send a ground PULSE to your coil pack to fire it. if you give it a constant grond it's going to keep the coil pack discharging at all times and fry it.

the E on your coil packs = EARTH = constant ground.

fix your wiring before you burn out any other parts.

best of luck,

Dave

[nicks240sxs13]

yea. basicly i ran an extra ground off the red ground wires on the back of my coils( the two in the back that were not spark) to the frame and burnt those 2 up and my car has no spark now.
my ecu threw code 55(no problem). then it was throwing 21(sensor ground)
now its throwing 55 again.
but anyways im getting a constant flow of about 12v on my + wire on my coil and getting weird signals from the 5 wires on the inlet side of my ignitor chip

[nicks240sxs13]

so are you saying my ignitor chip is gone?

[nicks240sxs13]

tested contenuity to the E from all coils to the bolt on the back of the head and they all are good. same with the red wires from the coil to the ignitor chip. and now we are trying to find the other end of the blaack ground wire on the inlet side of the ingnitor to test it.. you know where that it anyone?

[Z U L8R]

that doesn't sound right at all.

can you just get another coil pack subharness that hasn't been messed with, ground the ground wire with the eyelet on it, plug it in, and go. even if you just borrow a friends.

if you still have no spark after you use a harness that's not all fubar, then try your buddies ignitor, if still no spark, then try his coil packs.

bottom line, on your black wire you should get constant ground

on your middle thick white wires you should get key ON ignition 12 volts

the last wires at the coil pack should be pink and those should have continuity to the plug that goes to the ignitor. THEY SHOULD NOT BE GROUNDED. the signal which is a ground signal should come from the ecu, then to the ignitor, then to the coil packs.

if these wires are grounded then you'll just keep frying coil packs, ignitors, and possibly the ignition drivers in the ecu.

best of luck,

Dave

[nicks240sxs13]

got it running now. its running perfect now, i cleaned all connections on the ignitor, coil, and the 2 plugs comming off the positive battery turminal. also the egi pump relay was bad.
Now i got one more problem, at about 5lbs of boost it starts to sputter or backfire a little. it doesnt do it at any certain rpm, just boost. it seems like a fuel problem. I was wondering if it could possibly be my 150k mile ka24 fuel pump or something eles?

[Z U L8R]

get ngk #4644 (bkr7e) spark plugs and gap them to .028 ~$1.89/per plug

Dave

[nicks240sxs13]

ill do that tomarrow.. i think they are gapped a bit higher than .028 right now. and my back to cylinder wires that go to my ignitor are still tied togeather can that cause any problems?

[Z U L8R]

yes, fix your gap, and fix your wiring problems. i'm sure the car will run a lot better without those 2 problems.

Dave