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rvas13
02-09-2010, 09:32 AM
so i recently broke cylinder 4 exhaust side rocker arm and the shims are AWOL. i was wondering from what i have read in the FSM that intake side shims are 2.800 and exhaust side are 2.700. please correct me if im wrong..
the head is stock.

jspaeth
02-09-2010, 01:25 PM
so i recently broke cylinder 4 exhaust side rocker arm and the shims are AWOL. i was wondering from what i have read in the FSM that intake side shims are 2.800 and exhaust side are 2.700. please correct me if im wrong..
the head is stock.

Your first issue before worrying about buying new shims is finding the old ones.

If you have already done this and are stripping the whole thing down or have found them, good.

If not, better start looking, before you do further damage.

Z U L8R
02-09-2010, 06:15 PM
they're probably in the oil pan lol but if you broke a rocker arm while driving you should probably do a leak down test once you fix it to make sure no piston to valve damage occured.

Dave

CrazyRob
02-09-2010, 06:18 PM
check the oil drains for the shims...

rvas13
02-10-2010, 12:57 PM
should i reuse the shims or get new ones?

jspaeth
02-10-2010, 02:18 PM
If you found them and they look like they are okay and not fucked up, I guess you could reuse them.


You would have to determine (look at the other rockers/valves) which side the shim goes on and which side the guide (has a notch in it) goes on.

Justin

s13silvia123
02-10-2010, 02:20 PM
if they are missing and you cant find them make sure you measure them to the correct specs before you buy new shims as well.

rvas13
02-16-2010, 09:41 AM
its been snowing for the past 2 weeks and i dont have a garage but today im going to pull the pan and let you all know what i find. should i pull the windage tray aswell?

rvas13
02-19-2010, 09:39 PM
ok so i pulled my pan today and looked everywhere.. no shims found ANYWHERE. stuck a magnet up into everywhere and got nothing.

btw anyone have and oem sr20 cams for sale. the lobe where the rocker arm broke is all dented up and yeah.. everything else seems okay though.

rvas13
02-24-2010, 07:46 AM
i got my rocker arm and found my shims. ordered BC 264/264 cams(oem were done from the broken RA) hopefully running by the end of the day today

VNG704
02-24-2010, 07:54 AM
you should get a feeler gauge, rps has one made for the sr20. comes with instructions. it is recommended to reshim when going aftermarket cams.

rc1honda
02-24-2010, 12:09 PM
you should get a feeler gauge, rps has one made for the sr20. comes with instructions. it is recommended to reshim when going aftermarket cams.

Why we he need to reshim if he is using stock HLA lifters? I never heard of a reshim after putting cams in. Maybe if they were really agressive, like 280's or something. But I really don't think he needs to measure lash if he is using the stock HLA's.

rvas13
02-24-2010, 12:46 PM
idk, it just started snowing so im push back even further. i hate richmond.

rvas13
02-26-2010, 03:18 PM
ugh i put everything back together and now it wont start.... i made sure the mating marks matched on the sproket to the silver links in the chain. made sure the cams were on the right side.. it just keeps turing over in a " waa baba waa baba" kind of sound. should i recheck the alignment on my CAS? checked the ecu and it there a 55 so.... idk where to go from here

j87w
02-26-2010, 03:29 PM
Check compression on every cylinder, check spark and then check to make sure you have fuel. Let us know the results for further troubleshooting and the specifics of what you found.

rvas13
02-27-2010, 03:10 PM
ok i got her started( had to mess around with the CAS) BUT now haha after i fixed idle, when id go to drive its choppy kind of and only until i hit boost will it run decently right.
checked plugs and sp3 was dry fouled kinda...

another thing, during idle, it would slowly idle lower and lower. could this be because of the fouled plugs? or would that plug explain the choppyness?

VNG704
02-28-2010, 10:42 PM
Why we he need to reshim if he is using stock HLA lifters? I never heard of a reshim after putting cams in. Maybe if they were really agressive, like 280's or something. But I really don't think he needs to measure lash if he is using the stock HLA's.Because of wear. I know alot of guys reuse the shims/guides but:

This tool should be used to check shim "T factor" whenever:
* Valves are cleaned or moved around in the cylinder head
* New cams are installed (high lift will accentuate prior problems)
* New valve springs or retainers are installed
* On a Freshly Imported Engine
* Every 50k miles, the Rocker arm guide wears quickly
* If you have a "tick" sound in the cylinder head


Rocker arm guides wear quickly in our experience. The rocker Arm is made of much stronger metal than the guide. The contact of the rocker arm against the guide causes the guide to wear. Nissan OEM specification for T factor is +/- .02mm. Guides can wear as much as .5mm in just 50k miles causing an uneven "T Factor" and leading to noisy valve train and rocker arm loss at high RPM. We suggest you order 8 New rocker arm guides every time you re-shim an SR20 head. The Rocker arm guide acts as a zero point to calculate your "T factor" for each valve pair.

-qouted from rpsport.net

Just do it right the first time.

rvas13
03-01-2010, 01:07 PM
re shimed and new RA's. everything runs fine now. thanks everyone so much for the input.