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BTplaya
12-03-2009, 10:05 AM
I did a cam swap this summer and ran into a problem finding cam carrier bolts. I got it done at the time, but would like a new set.

I have a S14 SR20 "Notch Top"

Does anybody know a part number for these bolts? There are 3 different sizes.

I know the sentra came a SR20 but its more like a red or black top, I believe, which has different size bolts.

I also contacted ARP and they can spec out some for me. Has any one with a built S14 gone this route?

The best route would be convert to a stud. Anybody tried this?
Ceepo
12-03-2009, 10:43 AM
never tryed it, best bet is to find someone with a junk head and ask to buy there bolts...
Homer_Simpson
12-03-2009, 10:45 AM
I did a cam swap this summer and ran into a problem finding cam carrier bolts. I got it done at the time, but would like a new set.

I have a S14 SR20 "Notch Top"

Does anybody know a part number for these bolts? There are 3 different sizes.

I know the sentra came a SR20 but its more like a red or black top, I believe, which has different size bolts.

I also contacted ARP and they can spec out some for me. Has any one with a built S14 gone this route?

The best route would be convert to a stud. Anybody tried this?
If you feel like a baller then go with ARP or Naprec studs. A guy name Matt Vassalo did a stud kit with all the component sourced from ARP (IIRC) for his S14 SR a long time ago.
codyace
12-04-2009, 08:34 AM
If you feel like a baller then go with ARP or Naprec studs. A guy name Matt Vassalo did a stud kit with all the component sourced from ARP (IIRC) for his S14 SR a long time ago.

I used regular studs from McMaster
s14unimog
12-04-2009, 01:19 PM
double post look down.
s14unimog
12-04-2009, 01:21 PM
why would you switch from factory bolts to studs? There is no need to "upgrade" this hardware. I have a spare s13 SR head. Now you can't have any of my bolts but I can measure the three sizes of the s13 SR head if you need. PM me b/c I won't check this thread again.

USDM SR20DE and JDM SR20DET (at least s13 SR) have the same head casting number, 57F IIRC, so their cam caps and hardware are identical. I just had my head rebuilt and we had to source/fit a replacement cam cap.
codyace
12-04-2009, 01:35 PM
why would you switch from factory bolts to studs? There is no need to "upgrade" this hardware. I have a spare s13 SR head. Now you can't have any of my bolts but I can measure the three sizes of the s13 SR head if you need. PM me b/c I won't check this thread again.

No need to upgrade? True...but if you've ever had to work on a car that had had snapped studs, or if you simply don't want an issue if you plan on doing cam swaps in your car...it doesn't hurt, especially considering the cost of buying the studs from McMaster. It happens often. I've never personally broke one, but I've had to work on them...not fun.

Much like upgrading anything, sure it may not be needed...but it doesn't hurt.
s14unimog
12-04-2009, 01:39 PM
No need to upgrade? True...but if you've ever had to work on a car that had had snapped studs, or if you simply don't want an issue if you plan on doing cam swaps in your car...it doesn't hurt, especially considering the cost of buying the studs from McMaster. It happens often. I've never personally broke one, but I've had to work on them...not fun.

Much like upgrading anything, sure it may not be needed...but it doesn't hurt.

I've done a number of cam swaps/head replacements and never ran across this problem. I see your point though, it won't make a difference and can't hurt. I think the TQ spec is something like 34lbs, or something really low. Remember kids no need for king kong +2 torque spec. Just snug them down.
codyace
12-04-2009, 02:14 PM
I've done a number of cam swaps/head replacements and never ran across this problem. I see your point though, it won't make a difference and can't hurt. I think the TQ spec is something like 34lbs, or something really low. Remember kids no need for king kong +2 torque spec. Just snug them down.

It's only like 8 ft lbs final. The biggest issue are the kids that don't do it progressively, or in order.
BTplaya
12-04-2009, 06:08 PM
Yes, there is really no need for new bolts as the car is running great now. But I like to upgrade parts so I know there will be no peoblems in the future.

Just as a note I used our ARP strech gauge on the factory bolts and after a few cam swaps we were seeing noticable strech. Which means that correct torque cant be achieved.

Also the final torque is 8ft.lbs, but we made a test block at the shop and the bolts will break if torque reaches 15-20 ft.lbs so make sure you use the correct torque wrench.

I can get brand new bolts for the S14 SR shipped from japan, but crazy cost.
BTplaya
12-04-2009, 06:15 PM
I used regular studs from McMaster

Do you remember the part #'s and specs you used?
jspaeth
12-04-2009, 06:48 PM
It's only like 8 ft lbs final. The biggest issue are the kids that don't do it progressively, or in order.


Haha ^^ he said 34!!!!! 34 would be nice if you want to snap them.

I borrowed my buddies little baby inch-lb tq wrench and did it like the FSM says, in 3 steps.

Butter smooth
codyace
12-05-2009, 12:49 PM
Do you remember the part #'s and specs you used?

(copied from a PM i recently sent)

I really don't have such information around anymore. I got the thread pitch from the OE studs, and measured the total length of them, plus added a little bit (room for washer and a nut)

mcmaster.com it's a really nice site...once you get the thread pitch (again I forget) you just type it in, and then narrow down the parameters

Hope that helps!


Haha ^^ he said 34!!!!! 34 would be nice if you want to snap them.

I borrowed my buddies little baby inch-lb tq wrench and did it like the FSM says, in 3 steps.

Butter smooth

That's exactly the reason why much of them get snapped, as 8ft lbs is so small that it's often hard to even feel on a 3/8 trq wrench. That and people sometimes do the 'click and 1/4 turn' nonsense.
Homer_Simpson
12-05-2009, 01:28 PM
(copied from a PM i recently sent)

I really don't have such information around anymore. I got the thread pitch from the OE studs, and measured the total length of them, plus added a little bit (room for washer and a nut)

mcmaster.com it's a really nice site...once you get the thread pitch (again I forget) you just type it in, and then narrow down the parameters

Hope that helps!




That's exactly the reason why much of them get snapped, as 8ft lbs is so small that it's often hard to even feel on a 3/8 trq wrench. That and people sometimes do the 'click and 1/4 turn' nonsense.
I used an inch/pound torque wrench.