View Full Version : Pulling my SR, what should I replace?
CinSun
12-01-2009, 06:27 PM
So in a few weeks I'm gonna be pulling my s13 SR blacktop to make repairing all the leaks a lot easier. I'm essentially going to treat the motor as if it had just been pulled from a clip and replace all the essentials (PO seemed to have ignored the common practice of replacing gaskets, water pump etc when he swapped it.) I'm already going to be replacing the following:
water pump
all exhaust/turbo gaskets
all intake manifold gaskets
front cover/oil pump
spark plugs
all belts
oil pickup strainer gasket
transmission sensors and seals
Anything else I should look into replacing while I have the motor/tranny out?
I LUV MY S13
12-01-2009, 06:55 PM
thermostat, spark plug wires, fuel injectors, fuel pump
CinSun
12-01-2009, 07:41 PM
ya sorry forgot to mention i've already got the parts to replace the thermostat, the dash temp sensor and ecu temp sensor. fuel pump has already been replaced. as for the fuel injectors, please excuse my ignorance, but could I just buy larger than stock injectors (740cc or so) and run them w/ an essentially stock setup (t25 at 7-11ish lbs of boost) without any problems? I'm planning on eventually moving to a larger turbo in the future, but I just don't have the money for it right now. I'd like to avoid buying a set of stock injectors since they won't be used very long.
sacco sideways
12-01-2009, 09:04 PM
good topic. im actually building a motor and was wondering the same thing.
raf702
12-01-2009, 09:37 PM
The 740's are overkill for a stock T25 on the sr20det. Just get your stock injectors cleaned up. Don't drop in those 740's or bigger, until your ready to drop in a larger turbo which accomodates those injectors.
CinSun
12-01-2009, 10:41 PM
thanks, cleaning the injectors sounds like a better option and will save me some money
thermostat, spark plug wires, fuel injectors, fuel pump
doesn't the sr20 use coilpacks?
g6civcx
12-01-2009, 10:51 PM
Replace as many parts as you can possibly afford because the engine is already out of the car.
rotas13
12-01-2009, 10:58 PM
replace ALL gaskets, rebuild turbo in my opinion, all seals, and anything that seems worn or torn. When I did my rebuild I literally replaced everything! Just an FYI.
iROYAL
12-01-2009, 11:10 PM
You could replace the timing chain and/or timing chain tensioners.
Ceepo
12-01-2009, 11:45 PM
I recenltly rebuild my sr20det, i did bearings, pistons, rings, valve seals, head gasket(would be alot easier with the motor pulled, good time to upgrade to a Metel HG), front and rear main seals, water pump, thermostat, all gaskets, honed block, ect... it was a full oem rebuild... and yes sr20dets dont use spark plug wires unless its NA(i believe) then they have a distributor and not a CAS
DataXUnknown
12-02-2009, 02:12 AM
I would go all out on it while the motor is out. I've got a cosworth metal headgasket for ya if your interested. It would be a good investment, as well as rocker arm stoppers (if you plan on tracking/revving the motor high) I have those as well.
The more work you do to rebuild it now, the better you will feel driving and less downtime you will have with your car.
SleepR 240sx
12-02-2009, 09:44 AM
This is exactly what I'm in the process of doing right now. Replace everything you can now. Pays off trust me.
japslapsilvia
12-02-2009, 10:44 AM
since u will be having the motor out...i would say change all bearings, thrust washers, rings, check deck/head surface, machine if necessary. in addition to what u have listed already.
jdm213
12-02-2009, 11:19 AM
I would change the turbo dp and manifolds new pulleys and cam sprockets
driver11324
12-02-2009, 11:26 AM
I am in the process of doing this too. I put the motor in about a year ago and just got it fully running over a month ago and oil leaks are starting to show. While the motor was out the first time, I replaced the timing chain and tensioner, all seals except for rear main. Now, Im doing another metal HG so the front cover seals properly (long story)
CinSun
12-02-2009, 03:05 PM
definitely appreciate all the advice given so far. I guess I'd be an idiot to not take advantage of the motor being out of the car and going all out. The only problem with that is, not a surprise, a lack of fundage. I'll have about 4K to spend on the motor and car in a few months, plus whatever extra cash i have at the end of each month after bills, but I DON'T want to drop all of that into the motor. There are other things i need to get done with the car/shell itself to get it at least track worthy, so I need to save some money for that. I already have all the parts I listed in my first post, minus the exhaust/turbo gaskets. Ideally I'd like to limit this mild rebuild to about another $1000 at the most, but from the looks of it I'm not sure I'll be able to stay under that.
I don't need this to be a 600+ hp track monster, I'd like to end up somewhere between 350-400hp when all is said and done. Having said that, I've read quite a few times that the stock bottom end can handle up to around 400hp. I was hoping I'd be able to avoid replacing things like pistons, connecting rods, getting the head resurfaced, etc. as things like that can add up pretty quickly. At the same time however, I'm all about doing it right the first time, and going a little overboard with the insurance policy just to make sure I won't have to deal with any major problems later on down the road.
So my next question is, think i could get by ok with just adding the following to the list?
metal HG
clean fuel injectors, replace if necessary
rear main seal (front main will already be replaced w/ new front cover)
timing chain + chain tensioner (is it really necessary to replace these if they look like they're in good shape?)
rocker arm stoppers
rod bearings (maybe, i hear getting the measurements right on these is a pain in the arse)
thrust washers
all transmission bearings (i'm already going to replace the input shaft bearing, so i might as well replace them all)
as for the head gasket, is there any reason why I would need/want to deviate from the stock thickness and bore? Keep in mind I'm planning on making the hp goal of around 350-400, but I'll be running on the stock t25 for probably a good year before that.
don't wanna bother with rebuilding the t25 for the time being, ill check out the condition and if all seems ok ill keep running on it. If it blows, oh well, like I said I'll be upgrading eventually anyways.
sacco sideways
12-02-2009, 04:59 PM
well if your uping the boost your going to want a metal HG or your $hit will blow.. DONT use another stock HG youll regret it
CinSun
12-02-2009, 05:51 PM
ya i'm gonna be using a metal headgasket regardless, but i'm not sure if I need to go with a thicker gasket or not.
After thinking about it, I figure if I'm gonna remove the head to replace the HG i might as well get the head decked too.
R33E8
12-02-2009, 06:27 PM
ya i'm gonna be using a metal headgasket regardless, but i'm not sure if I need to go with a thicker gasket or not.
After thinking about it, I figure if I'm gonna remove the head to replace the HG i might as well get the head decked too.
You'll need to get the block and head surfaced (for Cometics at least). It should be less than 150 for both..
azndoc
12-02-2009, 06:37 PM
Motor mounts
That's what I have to do to mine, its bad.
driftpolice
12-02-2009, 07:15 PM
i have the valve seals for sale for $50 bucks. I had a bunch of gaskets too but just sold them. listen to these guys, and pay to play.
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