Drove an MY sr'd 240sx for the first time!

[Jim96SC2]

Well I finally almost finished it. Enough so that I could get the darned thing moving at least. So with dad's help I get the stupid clutch bled and away I go. I'm not gonna say that we're made for eachother. Nor was the car uber-quick. BUT, it was a freaking BEAST of a car. Maybe it was the lack of power steering. Or maybe it was the non-existant exhaust. Or maybe it was the fact that I blew through first second and third just going down my block TAKING IT EASY! I think things will work out. The ultralight flywheel makes it rev up very very quickly. It's just runnin real real rich (perhaps too high of fuel pressure from the walboro?). In any case it was balls fun and I pseudo-drifted the 3rd turn. Very cool.

[xLSTONEx]

Sounds great man, what kind of SR did you get and what mods do you have? How long did it take you to do the swap? Hope everything goes well.

Landon

[Bbandit]

Originally posted by xLSTONEx
Sounds great man, what kind of SR did you get and what mods do you have? How long did it take you to do the swap? Hope everything goes well.

Landon

its in his sig

[Jim96SC2]

Thanks for pointing that one out. I have to say that building it myself was a blast. I'd definitly do it again (though I'd get a full clip this time).

[Eternal_240Sx]

How does your HKS BOV sound? im thinkin of getting it when i get my sr?


Edit: Oh yea...congrats on a job well done

[Jim96SC2]

I have it recirc'd so it's real real quiet. You can just barely here a "Pfft".

[Jsquared]

congrats :) i'm in the middle of my swap right now (engine not going into the car until I'm 100% happy with it's prep and cleanliness :D ), and I am dreading the wiring... the mechanical stuff is cake, but i HATE wiring...

[timmybgood]

was there any part of the installation that gave you trouble? anything i should look out for when doing my swap? did you do the wiring yourself? congrats by the way

[Driving-In-The-Rain]

Im also starting my research stage of the sr20 swap. Are there any problems you encountered that might give me some trouble?

[240silvia]

Nice job man. Although I never did the swap when I had my 240, I believe that as long as you get a full engine, you know, trans., harness... all that stuff, you shouldn't have any problems. I think that you run into problems when you try to piece together a motor. Just like that guy said, next time, he'd get a clip. That way everything you need is there.

[fiebru1119]

I'm also curious as to how you got the wiring done...

[Yoshi]

hey congrats man.
the walbro will make you run rich. Get a tomei/nismo FPR and tune away :)

[SR240SXT]

Originally posted by Jsquared
congrats :) i'm in the middle of my swap right now (engine not going into the car until I'm 100% happy with it's prep and cleanliness :D ), and I am dreading the wiring... the mechanical stuff is cake, but i HATE wiring...

Why don't you just send away your harnesses to a SR shop, they can do it for a couple hundred bucks or so and it only takes a little while. They make it look just like the stock harness. IMO thats what I would do cause i hate wiring and it would look messy anyway. phase2motortrend, afterdarktuning, enjuku racing and heavythrottle do it i believe.

[Jsquared]

because i don't have hundreds of dollars lying around to pay someone else to do it. i'm gonna be stretching my budget rather thin with the custom IC piping I'm gonna need...

[Dousan_PG]

wiring? i just give it to my friend, he does it for free (or a small fee like some beer or something like that). even if its the KA to SR harness wiring or anything like that wiring harness related :p

best bet if your clueless is pay someone. but if you have the time and paitence, then do it yourself. all the info is online, just takes time to find it :)

[-E-]

congrats

[SR240SXT]

Originally posted by dousan36
wiring? i just give it to my friend, he does it for free (or a small fee like some beer or something like that). even if its the KA to SR harness wiring or anything like that wiring harness related :p

best bet if your clueless is pay someone. but if you have the time and paitence, then do it yourself. all the info is online, just takes time to find it :)

yeah, you're lucky you have a friend you can just give it to. I realize my ignorance as far as engine swaps go so I don't really want to do it myself for the first time, plus the security and neatness of a professionally done harness outweighs the cost IMO, but thats just me.

[Dousan_PG]

send it away then
do it yourself just dont use crimps and such, solder that puppy!
you can do it
if you take your time and be paitent and research enough you'll get the info. and take pride in your hard work paying off!!!! :)

[Jsquared]

I'm confident that I could do a professional-quality job (since I'm a mildly obsessive nitpicky engineer-in-training :D), but I haven't done hardly any soldering and I don't have any copies of the wiring diagrams (and I've never done much wiring before at all). I'd love to learn, but I really want to get this thing running and I might just have to suck it up and pay someone... which is gonna be tough on my budget...

[Jim96SC2]

I too was very very worried about the wiring. I printed out the www.SRSWAP.com instructions and followed the diagram to the letter. It was very very easy. The wiring harness can fit without too much of a problem.The main stuff that you need to worry about is the drivers side stuff. I ran the 02 sensor out back bu the firewall and the MAF and PS wiring up in front of the engine. It all can together rather well with minimal entension. I WOULD SUGGEST that you do NOT cut the harness to fit better. Take the extra line and pull it through into the cockpit and tie it up where it won't be seen. It'll make your life much easier. I have a 90 so I swapped to a 92 PS line and resevoir. That left holes in the passenger side shock tower. I used that to hold my ignitor chip and the other bits that hang off it (I still don't know what the two things with the vacuum lines on it really are).

As for problems, no more then the usual. make sure ALL the oil is drained out of the engine before you turn it over. I didn't and had a puddle of oil in my compressor which spewed oil when I ran it. Don't get hotter plugs until your ready to drive. Upgrade the FPR. and most of all HAVE FUN. Do a bit at a time and just do it right the first time.

[Yoshi]

Originally posted by Jim96SC2
do it right the first time.

^ Seriously, this is the BEST advice for installing your SR.
DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.

Everyone wants to save money, that's a given. But EVERYONE knows that there are somethings in life you do not skimp on. This is one of them. Splurge a little. Do EVERYTHING that you should, and get it right the first time around, cutting corners and being cheap will lead to bad experiences and a bitter attitude, do it right and be a happy person :)

[Jsquared]

i've read the HT wiring stuff and I'm still a bit fuzzy, maybe I'll understand better when the engine is in the car and I have the harness laid out... basically MAFS, PS, A/C, ignitor wires have to be lengthened, then the SR harness will plug everywhere OK and the ECU can be put in the passenger footwell? the battery area stuff I can probably figure out (no FSM for me :( ). there are one or two guys locally that have done the S13-->S13 wiring before and can help me out, but I'm on a tight budget and prob gonna hafta pay them.

make sure ALL the oil is drained out of the engine before you turn it over. I didn't and had a puddle of oil in my compressor which spewed oil when I ran it.
um, sounds like you're suggesting cranking it over without oil in it... you did mean drain it completely before putting new oil in, right?

Don't get hotter plugs until your ready to drive. Upgrade the FPR
i'm planning on using the plugs that came with the engine (they look good). should i upgrade the FPR even though i'm running on stock fuel pump? (note: I am planning on leaving boost stock at 7psi and babying the car around for a few days before going past 4500rpm or so. not going to install my HKS wastegate actuator until at least 2 weeks after everything runs fine, and not until I have my Walbro fuel pump. what FPR should I get? just an adjustable one? Tomei? Nismo?).

yeah, i'm definately going to do it right. that's why the engine still isn't in the car yet :D I'm being really nitpicky with hoses and junk. which brings me to this point: the breather hose (T off of cam cover), one side goes to what looks to me like the PCV thingy (towards flywheel direction), but there isn't a hose for the other side of the "T" (going towards front of engine)... what the heck should I do about that? I don't know enough about catch cans to feel comfortable making one yet... and my $%#@!ing coolant line to the turbo is bent :mad: how much do these run?

sorry for hijacking the thread with all these n00bish questions...

[Jim96SC2]

Originally posted by Jsquared
i've read the HT wiring stuff and I'm still a bit fuzzy, maybe I'll understand better when the engine is in the car and I have the harness laid out... basically MAFS, PS, A/C, ignitor wires have to be lengthened, then the SR harness will plug everywhere OK and the ECU can be put in the passenger footwell?

I only lengthened the ground on the o2 and the MAF if I recall correctly. I also shortened the ignitor wiring a bit.

the battery area stuff I can probably figure out (no FSM for me :( ). there are one or two guys locally that have done the S13-->S13 wiring before and can help me out, but I'm on a tight budget and prob gonna hafta pay them.

Just follow the directions on the HT website. I cut my SR plugs out and redid it like the wiring diagragm said (except I left out the AC stuff). It took about 30 mins to do. Just set everything up before you start soldering (or crimping) and leave at LEAST 3" off the KA plugs in case you need to cut and re-solder.


um, sounds like you're suggesting cranking it over without oil in it... you did mean drain it completely before putting new oil in, right?

Sorry about the misunderstanding. I had my SR on a stand and flipped upside down. The "T" on the valvecover leaked oil into my intake side of the turbo which has been causing headeaches cause now I have that pool of oil in my turbo which spews out a little every time my BOV shoots off.

i'm planning on using the plugs that came with the engine (they look good).

Whatever you do don't use racing plugs to start it and shut down. I run rich admitedly but damn, the race plugs fouled in no time flat. Use normal plugs.

should i upgrade the FPR even though i'm running on stock fuel pump? (note: I am planning on leaving boost stock at 7psi and babying the car around for a few days before going past 4500rpm or so. not going to install my HKS wastegate actuator until at least 2 weeks after everything runs fine, and not until I have my Walbro fuel pump. what FPR should I get? just an adjustable one? Tomei? Nismo?).

DO NOT RUN THE STOCK FP! BAD MONKEY! FPR's are pretty much all the same. I like tomei stuff though.

yeah, i'm definately going to do it right. that's why the engine still isn't in the car yet :D I'm being really nitpicky with hoses and junk. which brings me to this point: the breather hose (T off of cam cover), one side goes to what looks to me like the PCV thingy (towards flywheel direction), but there isn't a hose for the other side of the "T" (going towards front of engine)... what the heck should I do about that?

You can just put a breather filter or a catch-can on it. It's up to you.

I don't know enough about catch cans to feel comfortable making one yet... and my $%#@!ing coolant line to the turbo is bent :mad: how much do these run?

You can make your own line, it'll probably cost about the same as tryign to source one. Check JSPEC, HT, and Enjuku to see if they could get you one. If not just use Earls fittings and make your own line. The sizes were just covered somewhere. (I think it's -4AN or -6AN, but not sure)


sorry for hijacking the thread with all these n00bish questions...

YOU SHOULD BE!

[uiuc240]

so...what FPR are you using? and what did you do to "tune" it? i've had issues with running "rich" and a poor idle for as long as i've had the motor in the car. i'm wondering if this could remedy it.

Eric

[Jim96SC2]

I don't have a FPR, hence my rich problem. I think Yoshi had the same problem as I do and fixed it with a FPR. Fouling plugs is annoying as hell!

But to answer your question I'm getting a NISMO FPR cause it's cheap and easy to do. I hate fabricating stuff if I don't have to. Only problem is that you need to get a pressure guage to tune a FPR, which sucks nuts.

[uiuc240]

so what are you doing? just putting it in and setting the pressure to...what...43.5 psi? i don't know. learn me sumthin'. this is interesting!

Eric

[Jim96SC2]

43.4 PSI is normal for a SR20DET as per S14 FSM. However the S13 Walboro kit is a high pressure pump, which is about 60ish PSI if I remember correctly. So now we have +15 PSI going to the injectors with is ~33% more. In other words we're pushing out ~33% more fuel to the injectors, which the combustion cannot burn, heance leaving use running rich. Rich conditions contribute to crappy idle, black smoke, and fouled to hell plugs. What an adjustable FPR will do is give you the ability to tune the pressure to the needed 43.4 (or higher if needed) PSI to get close to stochiometric (complete) combustions as possible. Right now I blow out black smoke that smells like I poured gas over my car. I rev'd up my engine a bit to keep from stalling then opened my door and the cloud of noxious smoke came on me. All my clothes reaked of fuel, and my eyes burned a lot! Thankfully I now know it's not the ecu or sensors (I'm pretty sure on this) cause the car was trying to compensate for the rough idle, but it can only effect it so much within parameters.

[uiuc240]

ahhh...i see. well, my pump is not the high-pressure model (i just have the standard 190 lph).

however, i see some faults in this theory. i'm not saying that it's running properly, however, your pump is not the issue. it will only flow what it's being asked to flow. if the FPR is stuck (probably) and asking for more flow, then your pump will give it. however, the pump itself does not *create* more pressure. the high-pressure version of the 255 lph pump simply has more CAPACITY. go to www.autoperformanceengineering.com and read the charts they have for the flow info. the only tangible differences between the 255 *normal* and 255 *hi-pressure* are seen above 60 psi. And unless you are boosting more than 17 psi...you'll never take advantage of the added capacity.

once again, i see no reason for the 255 lph hi-pressure pump (except that it's only like $15 more, so why not?).

so, the moral is: make sure your OEM FPR is working properly

Eric

[Jim96SC2]

Yeah but it's flow vs amps. If you have a setup for a stock system that will push a smaller amount per amp sent then your newer higher per amp flow will increase the flow and pressure. (in theory) It's all a moot point till I get that damned pressure gauge in. When I do I'll do a pre-post setup and show my findings.

[kazuo]

DO NOT CRIMP THE WIRES ON THE HARNESS

You are ASKING for trouble if you crimp it. I don't care how "good" a job of crimping you can do. You are ASKING for it!!!

Solder it, and solder it well. You will be happy that you did. :D

Carry on :eek: