$6000 budget: help me make a decision

[bm3r]

Hey everyone, coming from an 04 M3 with $30k plus invested, im ready to start a new project with a budget. Ive been doing tons of research, check out my I have below:

-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost
3. 3" down pipe
4. FMIC-Greddy
5. Apexi N1 exhaust
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic)
9. Clutch lines and fittings
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed
11. Short ram air Intake
12. Air conditioning to work
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller
14. AEM boost gauge/controller
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3
17. Competition stage 4 clutch
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum
20. Fuel rail and injectors
21. Turbo timer
22. Koyo radiator


What I have listed is more than $6000, but I need to know which I can eliminate etc.? Remember my car is an Auto.

Would you go with a different SR swap?

I plan to keep the stock turbo, stock head, stock block for now.

My WHP goal is 275-300

Ive read that with the setup above ranges from 230WHP-260WHP?

TIA for your help!

Bonus pic-made 310WHP All motor:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/bm3r/BMW%20M3%20CSL/IMG_9590.jpg

In with the New:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/bm3r/for%20sale/IMG_0598.jpg

[T chop]

If your keeping stock turbo etc. I wouldn't spend the money on a Greddy intake and you could also save money by getting a cheaper rad (PBM or Mishimoto etc.)

[rican_nick]

Labor is gonna eat the most of it up. if you have space/skill I'd recommend knocking it out urself and save the money. The rest could be done within ur 6k budget.

what happened to the m3??

[mugendork]

For 6k you could buy someone's project that has 10+k invested and just part their car out to build yours.... I am a big fan of taking people's unfinished projects. Excellent bang for your buck. Something else for you to think about.

[FRpilot]

you went from e46 M3 to s14!? :ugh:

hope you still have the M3 and the s14 is an additional car.

at least the s14 is clean. with $6k can be blown fast, you could get an sr with some minor mods and suspension, or you can get suspension and exterior, or go almost all out on motor with sr and turbo upgrades.

i would get suspension and exterior mods and keep the ka, unless this is for off road use.

[NISMO_tuner]

Labor is gonna eat the most of it up. if you have space/skill I'd recommend knocking it out urself and save the money. The rest could be done within ur 6k budget.

what happened to the m3??

Exactly what I was going to say. Labor costs will take up most of your budget. From what I saw on the list, everything would cost less than $6k if you knew how to do it yourself.

[drftwerks]

sell those wack ass coils, so your total budget will be 6.2k after.

[jr_ss]

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost -Do as much of this yourself as you can
3. 3" down pipe
4. FMIC-Greddy
5. Apexi N1 exhaust
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump -Vendors sell the install kit with the FP
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic) -Stuff you can do yourself
9. Clutch lines and fittings
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed -Will make the FMIC install easier
11. Short ram air Intake -Just get an Apexi filter kit
12. Air conditioning to work
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller -A wideband isn't needed once tuned. Stay with the stock 02, unless you absolutely must have the Wideband readout in your face.
14. AEM boost gauge/controller
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3
17. Competition stage 4 clutch -Over kill for a "stock" swap. I personally run an RPS Max street.
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum -Once again, overkill, will not see any benefits on the stock turbo
20. Fuel rail and injectors -No need for a rail, you can find sidefeed 550cc's for cheap from an STI or used. You will need a tune for this.
21. Turbo timer -A waste and most of the time you can't use your keyless entry to lock doors with car still running anyway.
22. Koyo radiator


What I have listed is more than $6000, but I need to know which I can eliminate etc.? Remember my car is an Auto.

Would you go with a different SR swap?

I plan to keep the stock turbo, stock head, stock block for now.

My WHP goal is 275-300


The S14/S15 swap is the easiest to make good power in "stock" trim on because of the larger turbo and the VTC. However, the S13 SR is capable of making slightly more power up top when heavily modified. I think you'll be happy with the way it turns out with BPU's and a tune myself. It's a very responsive setup and a lot of fun to drive. But you'll always end you wanting more power, just make sure you have the supporting mods.

[DataXUnknown]

A mod just closed a thread just like this from another user saying "You need to make this decision yourself". Just a heads up...not going to mention who, but I believe he was wrong to close the thread.

Anyways, to give my input on it, if your looking for the 300whp range, you can buy knockoff greddy intake which I know many people are against, personally I am too but I'm just going with your budget. The radiator, although Koyo is so big name brand, I know from experience Mishimoto works excellent and I hear good about PBM.

The FMIC can also be replaced with a much cheaper brand, I know there are plenty good ones out there that are cheaper than Greddy, but work just as well. And like others said, many labor parts can be done on your own, even if you don't know how to do it, just ask around.

[rican_nick]

I'll trade ya my s14/sr for the m3 :).. PLENTY of parts you can put on your s14.. haha

[S14DB]

SR is going to suck when you have to get emissions tested.

[landins13]

heres an idea open up 4k worth of cash by selling the lmgt4's

[cc4usmc]

A mod just closed a thread just like this from another user saying "You need to make this decision yourself". Just a heads up...not going to mention who, but I believe he was wrong to close the thread.

On behalf of the members of this site who don't want it cluttered with useless threads by people who don't know how to spend their own money, I hereby nominate you for the "Useless Moderator" position. You'll be tasked with responding to every single useless thread that pops up just like this one. All in favor of DataXUnknown's promotion, say "NICO". That is all.

[DataXUnknown]

On behalf of the members of this site who don't want it cluttered with useless threads by people who don't know how to spend their own money, I hereby nominate you for the "Useless Moderator" position. You'll be tasked with responding to every single useless thread that pops up just like this one. All in favor of DataXUnknown's promotion, say "NICO". That is all.

Thank you for your kind words sir. I understand now that I am wrong and I will willfully admit to being wrong and agreeing with your statement.

PS I really do hate NICO.

Oh and selling the LMGT4's would be an excellent idea to open up some more cash for your budget

[Om1kron]

Hey everyone, coming from an 04 M3 with $30k plus invested, im ready to start a new project with a budget. Ive been doing tons of research, check out my I have below:

-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic).
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU.
9. Clutch lines and fittings
12. Air conditioning to work

You're broke... Probably slightly over thanks to the dyno tune.

3. 3" down pipe (200-500 dollars)
4. FMIC-Greddy (400-1200 dollars)
5. Apexi N1 exhaust (550 dollars)
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump (wtf?)
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump (150 dollars)
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed (100-200 to do it properly)
11. Short ram air Intake (not necessary)
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller (not necessary)
14. AEM boost gauge/controller (not necessary)
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 (if you keep the stock turbo, this really isn't necessary)

17. Competition stage 4 clutch (for stock power, not necessary.)
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel (not necessary)

if you must have this. youre looking at 6-800 dollars.

19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum
The stock manifold is good up to 500hp, why do you need this?

20. Fuel rail and injectors - not necessary until you have real money to play. Like I said you're already broke.

21. Turbo timer - 60-150 bucks

22. Koyo radiator - 200-300 bucks

What I have listed is more than $6000, but I need to know which I can eliminate etc.? Remember my car is an Auto.

Would you go with a different SR swap?
If you're hard up on cash you can go with an s13 redtop swap but I would recommend having a godamned wiring genius do the work for you.

The s14 swap is damn near drop in from what I hear.

I plan to keep the stock turbo, stock head, stock block for now.
My WHP goal is 275-300
Then you don't need any of the shit outside of the engine swap.

my girlfriend also added, for every car part you buy make sure to do something nice for your girlfriend since she will have to put up with your piece of shit car. :bowrofl:

[FairLady_JDM]

it obvious you just pay people and drive your car.

if you want to start a project, DO IT YOURSELF.

if you have a brain and 2 hands then your set.

try learning how to fix your own car and for the more experienced things ask people or google!

[Team DET]

buy tool's and do the labor yourself

[94cc0rd]

Hmm... why did you get rid of the m3? One of my favorite cars still.

Anyways, there's some good responses in this thread.. and some not so good...

good luck with the build.

[bm3r]

If your keeping stock turbo etc. I wouldn't spend the money on a Greddy intake and you could also save money by getting a cheaper rad (PBM or Mishimoto etc.)

ok Ill pass on the Greddy intake manifold

which is better PBM or Mishimoto etc.?

Labor is gonna eat the most of it up. if you have space/skill I'd recommend knocking it out urself and save the money. The rest could be done within ur 6k budget.

what happened to the m3??

I wish I could do it on my own, I have friends that can do it but I want a reputable shop to do it. Sold the M3 a few months ago :( it was a very sad day.

For 6k you could buy someone's project that has 10+k invested and just part their car out to build yours.... I am a big fan of taking people's unfinished projects. Excellent bang for your buck. Something else for you to think about.

Took me a while to find the my s14, so I want to build it from the ground up :)


you went from e46 M3 to s14!? :ugh:

hope you still have the M3 and the s14 is an additional car.

at least the s14 is clean. with $6k can be blown fast, you could get an sr with some minor mods and suspension, or you can get suspension and exterior, or go almost all out on motor with sr and turbo upgrades.

i would get suspension and exterior mods and keep the ka, unless this is for off road use.

Its going to be my DD, the M3 is gone. Ill have one again one day. Suspension is on the way!

Exactly what I was going to say. Labor costs will take up most of your budget. From what I saw on the list, everything would cost less than $6k if you knew how to do it yourself.

I wish i knew how to do it myself, but dont have the time, patience, and cant even change a light bulb

sell those wack ass coils, so your total budget will be 6.2k after.

Ive been doing alot of research on Coilovers, and most people like the SS, Flex etc. I want to keep the budget for coils under $1300 and want a smooth comfortable ride even if I cant slam the car

The S14/S15 swap is the easiest to make good power in "stock" trim on because of the larger turbo and the VTC. However, the S13 SR is capable of making slightly more power up top when heavily modified. I think you'll be happy with the way it turns out with BPU's and a tune myself. It's a very responsive setup and a lot of fun to drive. But you'll always end you wanting more power, just make sure you have the supporting mods.

Thanks for the info, im hoping to hit very high 12's with the setup. Ive seen varying #'s out there. We'll see...

A mod just closed a thread just like this from another user saying "You need to make this decision yourself". Just a heads up...not going to mention who, but I believe he was wrong to close the thread.

Anyways, to give my input on it, if your looking for the 300whp range, you can buy knockoff greddy intake which I know many people are against, personally I am too but I'm just going with your budget. The radiator, although Koyo is so big name brand, I know from experience Mishimoto works excellent and I hear good about PBM.

The FMIC can also be replaced with a much cheaper brand, I know there are plenty good ones out there that are cheaper than Greddy, but work just as well. And like others said, many labor parts can be done on your own, even if you don't know how to do it, just ask around.

Where can I get the replica intake manifold and who sells it? Also, do you know of any good FMIC kits out there besides the Greddy?

I'll trade ya my s14/sr for the m3 :).. PLENTY of parts you can put on your s14.. haha

M3 is sold!

SR is going to suck when you have to get emissions tested.

Yeah, im pretty sure I can pay a yearly fee to postpone the test or something like that

heres an idea open up 4k worth of cash by selling the lmgt4's

paypal me the $4k cash and you have a deal!

On behalf of the members of this site who don't want it cluttered with useless threads by people who don't know how to spend their own money, I hereby nominate you for the "Useless Moderator" position. You'll be tasked with responding to every single useless thread that pops up just like this one. All in favor of DataXUnknown's promotion, say "NICO". That is all.

lol

Thank you for your kind words sir. I understand now that I am wrong and I will willfully admit to being wrong and agreeing with your statement.

PS I really do hate NICO.

Oh and selling the LMGT4's would be an excellent idea to open up some more cash for your budget

Buy them from me?

You're broke... Probably slightly over thanks to the dyno tune.

3. 3" down pipe (200-500 dollars)
4. FMIC-Greddy (400-1200 dollars)
5. Apexi N1 exhaust (550 dollars)
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump (wtf?)
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump (150 dollars)
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed (100-200 to do it properly)
11. Short ram air Intake (not necessary)
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller (not necessary)
14. AEM boost gauge/controller (not necessary)
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 (if you keep the stock turbo, this really isn't necessary)



if you must have this. youre looking at 6-800 dollars.


The stock manifold is good up to 500hp, why do you need this?

20. Fuel rail and injectors - not necessary until you have real money to play. Like I said you're already broke.

21. Turbo timer - 60-150 bucks

22. Koyo radiator - 200-300 bucks

What I have listed is more than $6000, but I need to know which I can eliminate etc.? Remember my car is an Auto.


If you're hard up on cash you can go with an s13 redtop swap but I would recommend having a godamned wiring genius do the work for you.

The s14 swap is damn near drop in from what I hear.


Then you don't need any of the shit outside of the engine swap.

my girlfriend also added, for every car part you buy make sure to do something nice for your girlfriend since she will have to put up with your piece of shit car. :bowrofl:

haha nice! my g/f is cool, Ive had 15 cars ranging from bmw's, porsche, land rover, acura, etc etc.

[bm3r]

it obvious you just pay people and drive your car.

if you want to start a project, DO IT YOURSELF.

if you have a brain and 2 hands then your set.

try learning how to fix your own car and for the more experienced things ask people or google!

I can barely change a head light bulb, so yes I do pay people to work on my cars and just drive them. If I had the talent then I would definitely do it myself

buy tool's and do the labor yourself

see comment above :)

Hmm... why did you get rid of the m3? One of my favorite cars still.

Anyways, there's some good responses in this thread.. and some not so good...

good luck with the build.

I wanted a turbo car and no monthly payment. To Supercharge an M3 is very expensive. To turbo an M3 is just insane. Just way to much money over what I had in it, and it was time to go.

I never had any push back from the bmw/porsche forums on any questions I had but its all good

[drift freaq]

haha nice! my g/f is cool, Ive had 15 cars ranging from bmw's, porsche, land rover, acura, etc etc.

And you bought a Kouki S14? God you really must love S14's. LOL enjoy yourself. Though a 6k budget is gonna be tight to do it right, especially if you cannot work on it yourself.

[allntrlundrgrnd]

I can barely change a head light bulb, so yes I do pay people to work on my cars and just drive them. If I had the talent then I would definitely do it myself

This...will make you unpopular very quickly here.

reported*

[allntrlundrgrnd]

your in maryland! I will trade you my turbocharged 240sx and you can pay a shop to make it faster. link in my sig.

done deal, pm me

[bm3r]

And you bought a Kouki S14? God you really must love S14's. LOL enjoy yourself. Though a 6k budget is gonna be tight to do it right, especially if you cannot work on it yourself.

Ive always wanted an s14 :hsdance:

This...will make you unpopular very quickly here.

reported*

im sure im not the only one

your in maryland! I will trade you my turbocharged 240sx and you can pay a shop to make it faster. link in my sig.

done deal, pm me

thanks for the offer gonna pass

[g6civcx]

I need to know which I can eliminate etc.?

If you just want a car that looks nice and doesn't cost much money, I STRONGLY suggest that you keep the drivetrain stock and invest your money on cosmetic mods.

Ask around. Modding 240s get expensive really quickly. $6k is not even a drop in the bucket.

If you just want a nice daily driver just keep the drivetrain stock and do maintenance stuff.

A good SR swap will cost you $6k alone in parts and labour

Would you go with a different SR swap?

Yes, I would go with an S13 blacktop. You do not want VTC. Ask anyone who has an S14 SR.

I plan to keep the stock turbo, stock head, stock block for now.

My WHP goal is 275-300

Stock T28?

At minimum you have to clean up the engine as much as possible to hold 300 at the wheels.

[g6civcx]

If you're hard up on cash you can go with an s13 redtop swap but I would recommend having a godamned wiring genius do the work for you.

S13 SR is really easy to wire IF the car is stock and the engine harness is stock.

I'm no wiring genius, and I can do one in about 2-3 hours with labeling every connector given stock engine and body harnesses.

[0wn3r]

whatever you think the project is going to cost, multiply it times 1.5.

Check how emissions will deal with the OBDII not working. If you don't have emissions in your state you're golden.

If you still prefer SR over something like KA-T, then I think it's cool to go with the S14 SR.

Now, if you're on a budget you obviously need to start with the basics.

1) Turn the engine on to make sure nothing is broken

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu) (MAF, ignitor...)
2. Labor cost (find a GOOD shop to do it, the project typically takes 2.5 times as long as you think it will no matter what)
3. 3" down pipe (sure, get it w/ exhaust)
4. FMIC-Greddy (ok)
5. Apexi N1 exhaust (if you like it..)
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump (should come with the fuel pump..)
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump (ok...and it doesn't cost $150 btw)
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic) (good time to do it w/ 5-speed swap..the cost of the trim piece is expensive and hard to find used...you can try making your own boot for the automatic piece)
9. Clutch lines and fittings (ok)
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed (ok)
11. Short ram air Intake (Apex'i is one of the best rated intakes...I could sell you my used one which is only a year old unless you plan on going Z32 MAF right away)
12. Air conditioning to work (if you're current A/C works, then just search for the bracket on the forum, should come w/ a belt too I think)
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller (why?)
14. AEM boost gauge/controller (why?)
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU (you don't tune a stock ECU unless you already know of someone that can mod it)
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 (up to you i guess?)
17. Competition stage 4 clutch (I wouldn't keep stock but..why this?)
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel (if you have the money for one then go for a lightweight, otherwise you can resurface it and wind up regretting it later haha)
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum (why?)
20. Fuel rail and injectors (why fuel rail?)
21. Turbo timer (no.)
22. Koyo radiator (ok, you can keep stock fan shroud to save $ too)

just keep in mind all the stuff you SHOULD do in the beginning to cut down on as much labor cost as possible. Some of the other stuff you can throw on later.

if you plan on getting all that stuff up there it'll probably cost you around 10 thousand installed.

[jr_ss]

Yes, I would go with an S13 blacktop. You do not want VTC. Ask anyone who has an S14 SR.

Stock T28?

At minimum you have to clean up the engine as much as possible to hold 300 at the wheels.

What's wrong with the VTC? The fact that things wear out and you have to replace them? If the S14 didn't have the VTC it would be a dog. The VTC improves the lowend trq quite nicely. I'll take my VTC over an S13 SR anyday... :fawkd:

The stock T28 can handle 275whp max. He needs to focus on the fuel delivery aspect of things. I'm not sure what a clean engine bay has to do with 300rwhp? :cj:

[drift freaq]

What's wrong with the VTC? The fact that things wear out and you have to replace them? If the S14 didn't have the VTC it would be a dog. The VTC improves the lowend trq quite nicely. I'll take my VTC over an S13 SR anyday... :fawkd:

The stock T28 can handle 275whp max. He needs to focus on the fuel delivery aspect of things. I'm not sure what a clean engine bay has to do with 300rwhp? :cj:
There is nothing wrong with S14SR's or S15SR's for keeping with a relatively stock engine with minor bolt ons, its quite easy to get 275 or over 300 HP.

In fact I know quite a few experienced drifters and tuners here in socal that love their S14SR/S15SR's and these guys have been in the game a long time and owned pumped S13SR's as well.

Fact is the only time the S13SR is better is when your going for a 375-400HP plus SR. g6cicx's response is typical of most people who are A: either trying to go for high numbers on a SR or B: listening to what all the other people say.

Its really just a matter of what you prefer, more bottom end with a broader flatter torque and power band or less bottom end with a sharper torque and power band that comes on in the mid range and hits hard late.

Its like comparing a 4 stroke motorcycle to a 2 stroke. S13SR's are like 2 strokes nothing nothing bam insane!
S14SR is more of a pull from the bottom on up like a 4 stroke bike.

I think he meant cleaning up the engine as in doing gaskets, seals and possibly rings and valve job. Again if you get a low mileage engine with verified mileage its not a a necessity.

[SuicidnS13]

For 6k I would honestly just concentrate on cosmetics and restoring the old car. If the car is going to be your daily driver you need to really make sure that the swap will be reliable enough for it. That means you definately need a low mileage s14 motor. Then you will need to pay someone to tear it down and go over the whole motor. Nissan motors are not any where nearly as reliable as other japanese brands. Have your mechanic change out all gaskets(head gasket definately), seals, and at the least your waterpump.

So figure just in labor and parts cost alone to REFRESH (not even a rebuild) would be roughly 3k with the install and wiring. When you dont know how to do your own work you have to pay for quality work. And labor is on the average about 80.00 per hour being fair. So just an engine swap and no parts with labor and your allready at your budget.

This is budgeting out a reliable daily driver. Most people on this board literally throw SR swaps into their cars. Ive seen swaps done with old waterpumps and heck even old spark plugs still being used in them. Even your parts list is seriously lacking the important maintenance parts.

Ie-
Waterpump
Engine Gasket Set
Head Gasket
Oil Pan gasket (actually most of the time you have to change the pan too)
Nismo Thermostat
New Hoses (Rad + Vacuum + fuel)
New FPR (or adjustable plus required fittings)
New Clutch Slave


This list could go on and on forever really. So definately use the money towards reconditioning the actual vehicle. New brakes, all suspension components (bushings, ect) paint, carpet, seats....ect...

[bm3r]

whatever you think the project is going to cost, multiply it times 1.5.

Check how emissions will deal with the OBDII not working. If you don't have emissions in your state you're golden.

If you still prefer SR over something like KA-T, then I think it's cool to go with the S14 SR.

Now, if you're on a budget you obviously need to start with the basics.

1) Turn the engine on to make sure nothing is broken

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu) (MAF, ignitor...)
2. Labor cost (find a GOOD shop to do it, the project typically takes 2.5 times as long as you think it will no matter what)
3. 3" down pipe (sure, get it w/ exhaust) Will I need a test pipe and turbo outlet pipe-megan racing?
4. FMIC-Greddy (ok)
5. Apexi N1 exhaust (if you like it..)
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump (should come with the fuel pump..)
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump (ok...and it doesn't cost $150 btw)
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic) (good time to do it w/ 5-speed swap..the cost of the trim piece is expensive and hard to find used...you can try making your own boot for the automatic piece)
9. Clutch lines and fittings (ok)
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed (ok)
11. Short ram air Intake (Apex'i is one of the best rated intakes...I could sell you my used one which is only a year old unless you plan on going Z32 MAF right away) i may use the z32 maf
12. Air conditioning to work (if you're current A/C works, then just search for the bracket on the forum, should come w/ a belt too I think)
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller (why?) recommended to me
14. AEM boost gauge/controller (why?) recommended to me how will I be able to read the boost levels?
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU (you don't tune a stock ECU unless you already know of someone that can mod it)
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 (up to you i guess?)
17. Competition stage 4 clutch (I wouldn't keep stock but..why this?) what do you recommend? exedy stage 2?
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel (if you have the money for one then go for a lightweight, otherwise you can resurface it and wind up regretting it later haha) which lightweight flywheel do you recommend?
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum (why?) what about a cheaper megan racing intake manifold?
20. Fuel rail and injectors (why fuel rail?) recommended to me
21. Turbo timer (no.)
22. Koyo radiator (ok, you can keep stock fan shroud to save $ too) I was told I need to have one, is it safe to go without it?

just keep in mind all the stuff you SHOULD do in the beginning to cut down on as much labor cost as possible. Some of the other stuff you can throw on later.

if you plan on getting all that stuff up there it'll probably cost you around 10 thousand installed.

What's wrong with the VTC? The fact that things wear out and you have to replace them? If the S14 didn't have the VTC it would be a dog. The VTC improves the lowend trq quite nicely. I'll take my VTC over an S13 SR anyday... :fawkd:

The stock T28 can handle 275whp max. He needs to focus on the fuel delivery aspect of things. I'm not sure what a clean engine bay has to do with 300rwhp? :cj:

so the stock T28 can only handly 275whp, will everything I have listed above get me to 275whp? what else will I need?

lol at the clean engine bay comment

[g6civcx]

g6cicx's response is typical of most people who are A: either trying to go for high numbers on a SR or B: listening to what all the other people say

C: every single S14 SR I've seen come into the local shop needed VTC repair, has already fixed the VTC, or removed the VTC.

It's not a big deal. Just my personal bias.

I prefer to get an S13 SR and tune it with a standalone. Fewer parts and more adjustability that way.

I think he meant cleaning up the engine as in doing gaskets, seals and possibly rings and valve job. Again if you get a low mileage engine with verified mileage its not a a necessity.

This. Regardless of mileage, I would do every single external gasket because of age. I would also pull the oil pan and check out the crank and clean the oil pickup.

There are also things you want to do with the engine out before you put it into the car. You can search around and see what is recommended.

[bm3r]

For 6k I would honestly just concentrate on cosmetics and restoring the old car. If the car is going to be your daily driver you need to really make sure that the swap will be reliable enough for it. That means you definately need a low mileage s14 motor. Then you will need to pay someone to tear it down and go over the whole motor. Nissan motors are not any where nearly as reliable as other japanese brands. Have your mechanic change out all gaskets(head gasket definately), seals, and at the least your waterpump.

So figure just in labor and parts cost alone to REFRESH (not even a rebuild) would be roughly 3k with the install and wiring. When you dont know how to do your own work you have to pay for quality work. And labor is on the average about 80.00 per hour being fair. So just an engine swap and no parts with labor and your allready at your budget.

This is budgeting out a reliable daily driver. Most people on this board literally throw SR swaps into their cars. Ive seen swaps done with old waterpumps and heck even old spark plugs still being used in them. Even your parts list is seriously lacking the important maintenance parts.

Ie-
Waterpump
Engine Gasket Set
Head Gasket
Oil Pan gasket (actually most of the time you have to change the pan too)
Nismo Thermostat
New Hoses (Rad + Vacuum + fuel)
New FPR (or adjustable plus required fittings)
New Clutch Slave


This list could go on and on forever really. So definately use the money towards reconditioning the actual vehicle. New brakes, all suspension components (bushings, ect) paint, carpet, seats....ect...


Ill definitely mention the preventative maintenance to the shop. Brakes are all new and all suspension bushings will be installed soon!

[g6civcx]

At minimum you have to clean up the engine as much as possible to hold 300 at the wheels.

lol at the clean engine bay comment

"engine" is not the same as "engine bay".

Don't make the reading comprehension issue worse.

[KOUKIboy]

To the OP...If you have 6gs and want to make if fast with an SR20 good luck cause parts and labor are gonna cost a shit load, it also depends what you are gonna use the car for Drifting, Drag, Daily driver..Etc.. You can always go with the other alternative, KAT, keep the KA and Turbo it, with 6gs you can easily make a KAT with 300-500 HP or more....Parts are less expensive than SR and if you all you want is HP then I would recommend making the KAT....Its lots of fun...Good luck with whatever you dice....

[motorboater]

could do rb25det swap. or if you stay sr this wil save you some money

11. Short ram air Intake. can keep it stock fo now
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller. dont really need this for stock.
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU. cant really tune anything with stock ecu. unless you send it in.
17. Competition stage 4 clutch. overkill, exedy 2 or three would be fine with resurfaced flywheel
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum. lose torque i believe with this. there is no reason for anything but stock for now.
20. Fuel rail and injectors. dont need a new rail get injectors that are direct drop in, and injectors wont do anything unless you do get the ecu ROM tuned
21. Turbo timer. pointless if on a budget. if you run it hard just leave your motor on for another min before you turn it off.
22. Koyo radiator. you can use stock if not i recommend mishimoto.

[porkchop911]

how bout you just sell me your kouki and keep the m3 if u still have it lol jk i dont kno what to tell you besides save more money if you want to start this project and as someone said try doing it your self that the whole thrill of it knowing what you have in UR car and knowing U built it just my 2 cents there you can add that to your budget :)

[hybrid_eg]

yea sell that nissan pile and keep the e46...

I have my nissan pile now because I had to sell my baby (school is more important to me) so my pile makes me happy at moment until I graduate.

To give my .02cent to really answer your questions, with that budget you can get a complete sr20, get dpipe, bolt on exhaust, upgrade turbo, injectors, cams, rom tune, single stage clutch, headgasket w/rod bolts and you're set.. 300whp guarnateed. Of course you will need to do labor yourself, but above mentioned is entirely a bolt on affair say with a gt2871 turbo. Done.

former baby:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/hybrid_eg/m3022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/hybrid_eg/trizzo004.jpg

[nissanguru]

ditch the sr and buy an s14 with an rb25 already in it, and build it. rb>sr

[dopplganger1]

-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost do it yourself really isnt that hard if anything find people that have done it before to help
3. 3" down pipe
4. FMIC-Greddy go with cheaper like pbm or mishimoto or isis
5. Apexi N1 exhaust go with cheaper plenty out there and piping is piping
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car (http://zilvia.net/f/#) is Automatic)
9. Clutch lines and fittings
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed
11. Short ram air Intake
12. Air conditioning to work
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller
14. AEM boost gauge/controller
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3
17. Competition stage 4 clutch -go with a Tennessee clutch & supply really cheap and holds like all hell
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel gain acceleration but loose a little torque so not really needed but atleast resurface yours
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum stick with stock for your power range stock works fine
20. Fuel rail and injectors stock rail is plenty efficient enough
21. Turbo timer not needed you can just sit in your car for a little bit
22. Koyo radiator go with a cheaper one like pbm or mishimoto

[Big Zee]

this is super easy to answer your question mate. Install it stock. and mod with whatever money you have leftover. it'll be around 2500 for the motorset 1500? for labour costs ( its what I charge to put a sr in and return the car to customer running with mods they have have given to install extra ) so you have 2k to play with, get the rad, exhaust ( turbo back ) and a fuel pump to support it. and that'll be your 6k.


-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost
3. 3" down pipe - with elbow. Megan's is cheapest or get a ISIS one from Enjeku
4. FMIC-Greddy
5. Apexi N1 exhaust
6. not needed - 0 dollars
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic)
9. Clutch lines and fittings
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed
11. not needed - 0 dollars ( srick with the stocker it will work just fine )
12. Air conditioning to work
13. not needed - 0 dollars
14. not needed - 0 dollars
15. not needed - 0 dollars
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 - buy used, weld flange to your cold pipe and it'll save you getting a new hotpipe as you can use your stocker then.
17. an Exedy oem replacement will work, it holds a bit more power IF it needs to be changed out right away. might get a motor with a new clutch :)
18. varying clutch condition you may not need to change this. wait for more money to come in and do the combo swap.
19. not needed - 0 dollars
20. not needed - 0 dollars
21. Turbo timer - buy a used one and get your buddy to install it for you if you can't.
22. Mushimoto radiator with e-fans ( if you don't have a shroud from a sr )

I plan to keep the stock turbo, stock head, stock block for now.
My WHP goal is 275-300
Ive read that with the setup above ranges from 230WHP-260WHP?

TIA for your help!

think I saved you 1500+ in parts alone. if you want a boost gauge get a autometer one. I suggest getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge also.

look in the Buy/Sell parts section on here and you can prolly score a fair amount of goods for a lot cheaper then buying new and it'll help you stay within your budget.

good luck with the build and if you want all those parts to be shiny new, get a case of beer, some pizza;s and some buddies over and it should take you a weekend to do the swap, specially if your buddies have done a sr swap before :) ( or make friends with someone who has done the swap and bribe them )

[S14DB]

Yeah, im pretty sure I can pay a yearly fee to postpone the test or something like that
You are pretty sure? Maybe you should read the rules before diving into this.

Vehicle Emissions Inspection Program (http://www.mva.maryland.gov/mvaprog/veip/default.htm)

1996+ = OBDII plug in test. When you swap in the SR you lose OBDII. You wont be able to even fail the test. You will get an incomplete test due to OBD not detected.

[iwishiwas-all*]

sell the 240, take the other 6k you got, and put it as a down payment on a genesis or something...

[Def]

Labor is going to eat you alive when you decide you want a "little more power" or a "little better suspension."

It's seriously not that hard - buy a $100 set of tools and you can take apart 99% of the car.

If you're stuck going at it the way you're proposing, my suggestion would be to get bigger injectors(740cc) and a Z32 MAF(N62) from the start. You've got way too much of an E46 M3 owner mentality approaching this car(not necessarily a bad thing, former E36 M3 owner x2 here), so you just need to realize that the same things don't work the same.

I'd also recommend ditching the T28 from the get-go and getting a GT2871R 0.64 A/R turbo. You can get them that bolt right in place of the stock T28 and then you can make an easy 300 rwhp with stock cams, and a $300-500 set of cams will get you up to ~350 rwhp.

Don't do this in small stages if you're paying for labor. You'll end up with a lot of money sunk into a car that isn't very fast and you'll just want more.


Although again, I'd *STRONGLY* recommend you at least learn to do some basic wrenching on your car. Even if it's just replacing maintenance items on the engine while it's out and bolting on a few new parts and letting a shop do the swap part. If you pay someone to hold your hand the whole way it's going to cost a ridiculous amount and I bet you're displeased with the car before it's all said and done.

[0wn3r]

there's some retarded ass suggestions going on in this thread.

Just think of the common sense approach man (needs > wants)..fill in some of the blanks:

S14 SR = $2500
Install + Wiring =
Resurface or New Flywheel =
New clutch =
5-speed trim, rubber boot, clutch pedal assembly, shift knob, USDM 5-speed VSS if you want your speedometer to work =
Spark plugs (If you want cheaper go with BKR7E) =
New fluids / filters (basic sometimes included in swap price) =
Motor mounts =
S14 to S14SR bracket & belt to use w/ KA A/C= ~$110
Driveshaft
Exhaust
Battery relocation kit (secure it down well)

I mean, from there you can have a whole list of things as far as upgrades...to show you, here's the list of things I got from 240sxmotoring during the initial swap:

Greddy M-Spec Intercooler Kit
Greddy Hotpipe
Greddy Type RS bov
Koyo radiator
Samco rad hose kit
Greddy MX downpipe
Walbro 255 fuel pump & kit
Nismo tranny and motor mounts
ACT street/strip clutch kit
AGP clutch lines
steel driveshaft
Catco 3" cat
Circuit Sports dual-tip cat-back exhaust (piping ISN'T piping in this case as it came out of the box basically rusted up...it sounds nice, but I'd go with the Nicoclub BRM exhaust or something lighter if I was to start over)
Apex'i power intake
Auto ---> 5-speed swap parts
S15 turbo (since JDM Engine Depot sold me the motorset with a blown S14 turbo on it..no shaft play but its bearings were shot)
NEW stock FUEL RAIL (JDM Engine Depot had cracked it when they picked up the motor)
new coolant temp sensor
new exhaust manifold and turbo inlet gaskets, a couple of belts, and few elbows...(if you do the turbo inlet gasket, I'd highly recommend the locking plates)
Circuit Sports magnetic oil drain plug
NGK iridium plugs
Boost, oil pressure, and water temp gauges

Let me just clear it up by saying that with a $6K budget I wouldn't recommend trying to shoot for 275hp right out of the gate. I've got alot more parts than that now (I did 555cc injectors, Z32 MAF with which you'll need a new intake), manual boost controller, Power FC, and a full dyno tune). Don't forget these are USED mystery engines you're getting and something might not work right at first. On top of the blown turbo & cracked fuel rail, the alternator and CAS went within the first couple months.

Again, I strongly recommend setting your budget up by putting together a NEEDS list, then multiplying it times 1.5. After that, if you still have money, start looking at your wants.

[SlideWell]

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu) buy a front clip
2. Labor cost isnt cheap
3. 3" down pipe i suggest the circuit sport flex downpipe
4. FMIC-Greddy this with bov will run you $600 or more
5. Apexi N1 exhaust not bad, i have GT Spec
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump check
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump check
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car (http://zilvia.net/f/#) is Automatic) included with front clip
9. Clutch lines and fittings front clip
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed not always needed but some FMIC require it
11. Short ram air Intake Apexi air filter
12. Air conditioning to work buy a bracket or possibly use from clip
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller save it
14. AEM boost gauge/controller i like apexi more
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU no point in tuning a stock motor, exception if avc-r equipped, minor tuning allowed
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 recirculate your existing bov
17. Competition stage 4 clutch Exedy
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel Exedy
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum waste
20. Fuel rail and injectors waste
21. Turbo timer waste
22. Koyo radiator not needed on stock SR
id also try and add an Apexi AVC-R, well worth the money, and id def do front and rear crank seal and new water pump.
my :2c:
gorgeous kouki btw

[0wn3r]

Sorry, just saw your responses:

3. 3" down pipe (sure, get it w/ exhaust) Will I need a test pipe and turbo outlet pipe-megan racing?

You don't need anything fancy here. Consider a hi-flow cat if you can get away with a tail pipe sniff, but I doubt it. FYI- The waiver "fee" in my state for not passing and being allowed to postpone for another 2 years is $620.

11. Short ram air Intake (Apex'i is one of the best rated intakes...I could sell you my used one which is only a year old unless you plan on going Z32 MAF right away) i may use the z32 maf

Just know that when you do this, it'll need:
To be wired, be used with a new intake unless you get an adapter which I have mixed feelings on, and also be configured with your ECU. I personally waited on the Z32 MAF until I had all the other parts to go with it so I didn't spend the $ on a tune just for one minor change.

13. AEM Uego/gauge controller (why?) recommended to me
14. AEM boost gauge/controller (why?) recommended to me how will I be able to read the boost levels?

I just assume AEM is expensive haha. I mean, I'm sure it's nice but if you're looking for something a little more basic to save $ there's other things out there. I wouldn't go cheap of cheap, but IMO there's no need to shell out cash on bling gauges just yet..The boost gauge is VERY helpful though for pointing out vacuum leaks, or I guess overboost (which shouldn't really happen stock).

17. Competition stage 4 clutch (I wouldn't keep stock but..why this?) what do you recommend? exedy stage 2?

I've heard good things about the exedy stage 2 and bad things about the stage 1 :P

I had (have) the ACT street/strip clutch in there now and, aside from being a little noisy, it's held up. Then again, I've heard people NOT liking this ACT clutch too...I dunno. Just look at how much hp you're putting down. 275hp doesn't need a balls-out clutch unless you're going to be dumping it all the time...

18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel (if you have the money for one then go for a lightweight, otherwise you can resurface it and wind up regretting it later haha) which lightweight flywheel do you recommend?

lol, sorry, I'm on the regret side of this one. I don't have a recommendation because I just resurfaced since I was on a budget too, but wish I spent the $ to lighten it up.

19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum (why?) what about a cheaper megan racing intake manifold?

the stock manifold is fine man

20. Fuel rail and injectors (why fuel rail?) recommended to me

Same goes for the injectors as the Z32 MAF. You don't necessarily need a fuel rail...the HKS 555cc injectors I got dropped into the stock fuel rail. Also worth mentioning: I DO NOT have an adjustable FPR, nor did I upgrade mine. Definitely make sure you have the fuel pump before injectors though.

21. Turbo timer (no.)

Let me also go back to this one and mention that I did not purchase a new thermostat either. I know a number of people recommend this which is great if you live in a hotter area I'm sure. My water temp only starts to climb when I'm standing still at idle with the a/c on. I've never been on a full out race track, but my temp has never climbed about 194-ish F.

22. Koyo radiator (ok, you can keep stock fan shroud to save $ too) I was told I need to have one, is it safe to go without it?

Go without a radiator completely? lol, no! I got a Koyo right when I did my swap along with the hose kit. I was just trying to say that electronic fans are not a necessity for your cooling decisions.

[0wn3r]

16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 recirculate your existing bov

+1 If there's one thing I'd stress from that post, it's RECIRCULATE!!!

[blueshark123]

i should of sold u my sr setup all u need for a swap for 3.5k

[usajdm]

sell the 240, take the other 6k you got, and put it as a down payment on a genesis or something...

Best advice..........

[Ben G]

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/bm3r/BMW%20M3%20CSL/IMG_9590.jpg

In with the New:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/bm3r/for%20sale/IMG_0598.jpg


so you got rid of this bmw for that s14 and have 6k left and are wanting to do all that stuff? should have just kept the bmw in the first place

[nice_tan]

Yo! Its Tan. I bought the struts from you. Did not realize that you sold your M3 for the S14. crazy! but thats done with. If I were you, I would work on the S14 on your own. Saves shit load and you can put that money to other stuff. There are lots of forums and post pretty much about anything. I recently bought mine about 2 months ago so I can work on it, that's the fun part. And trust me, I'm not a mechanic but I have talked to people and read many forums that have years of experience on 240's. You will feel rewarded once everything is done. Looks like you don't have the patient. Kouki s14 is nice but i wouldn't get it to have someone else work on it. Better go get your M3 back haha

[eek]

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost - $$$
3. 3" down pipe - megan flex dp/circuit sports one (same thing) or buy used on here
4. FMIC-Greddy - M-sepc or LS-spec or look for a deal on a used one
5. Apexi N1 exhaust - find a used one, doesn't have to be apexi
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump -??? should come w/ fuel pump
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump - special going on right now for $89 shipped
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic) clutch pedal is all you really need, u can cut ur brake one down. clutch master is fairly cheap
9. Clutch lines and fittings - you can order this from enjuku for $50
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed - no need, u can buy a miata autozone battery-works fine
11. Short ram air Intake - if u can't afford the kit since its bank, get a ebay arm and apexi filter
12. Air conditioning to work - there as a member that sold the brackets, but re-charge will cost you extra.
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller - see below
14. AEM boost gauge/controller - see below
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU - go w/ a romtune if u can't afford a Power FC
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 -
17. Competition stage 4 clutch - why? go w/ exedy stage 2
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel - no need but if u can afford one, act is cheap
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum - no need unless u find a super good deal used
20. Fuel rail and injectors - stock rail is fine no need to change, if later on get 555cc or 740cc injectors if u get a turbo upgrade.
21. Turbo timer - no real need, but if ur lazy u can find a used one for cheap
22. Koyo radiator - no need u can use the stock one w/ stock fan shroud works fine.

If you hunt around in the for sale section, you can usually find some pretty decent deals on used parts. You can save quite a bit going used instead of brand new. Just be smart on what to buy used.

[bm3r]

Yo! Its Tan. I bought the struts from you. Did not realize that you sold your M3 for the S14. crazy! but thats done with. If I were you, I would work on the S14 on your own. Saves shit load and you can put that money to other stuff. There are lots of forums and post pretty much about anything. I recently bought mine about 2 months ago so I can work on it, that's the fun part. And trust me, I'm not a mechanic but I have talked to people and read many forums that have years of experience on 240's. You will feel rewarded once everything is done. Looks like you don't have the patient. Kouki s14 is nice but i wouldn't get it to have someone else work on it. Better go get your M3 back haha

whats up tan! m3 is sold!


thanks for all the info guys!

[bm3r]

Ok I revised my list using some of your suggestions check it out:

1. S14 SR20det Black Top with VTC
2. Labor
3. Stock S14 Radiator
4. A/C to work
5. P/S to work
6. Short Ram Intake
7. Auto to Manual swap and Parts
8. Boost gauge-What brand?
9. Manual Boost Controller-What brand?
10. HKS SS BOV
11. Motul Fluids
12. New belts, hoses, heater hoses
13. 3" Exhaust
14. 3" Turbo elbow
15. 3" DP
16. 3" Test Pipe
17. Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
18. Stock S14 Clutch
19. FMIC


Few questions:

1. What will I dyno at to the Wheels with the setup above?
2. Will I need a Sikky thermalnator heatshield gasket and what does it do?
3. So a Miata battery will work rather than relocating the battery to the trunk?
4. Will my tach and speedo work after the swap?
5. Headers seem to be cheap, will I see a nice gain with the setup above?
6. Should I cough the extra bucks and get a new radiator? Will the bumper have to be removed if I install it down the road?
7. A stock flywheel that is resurfaced will suffice correct?
8. Will I need new spark plugs?
9. Will I still get a blow off sound if I recirculate the stock BOV-to save $$ rather than getting the HKS SS BOV?


Please post some dyno #'s, most graphs I see are with big turbos etc.

TIA!-JR

[jr_ss]

1. With said list, you'd be around 250ish at the wheels, which is still quite respectable. You'd pull a low 13sec run at the strip.
2. You don't need it.
3. Yes it will work
4. This should be taken care of in the wiring aspect...
5. Don't waste your money on a cheap ass manifold. You'll see minimal gains.
6. As said, mishimoto or whatever the hell its called is decent. I like having 2gals of coolant cycling through my motor (Koyo rad).
7. Yes, stock is fine. But if you're going in there to replace the one it comes with, save yourself the later expense of pulling the trans out again.
8. Yes, NGK heat range 6 or 7's will do just fine.
9. You'll hear minimal noise from the stock recirc'd valve. The HKS SSQV is good, but I recomment recircing it as well, although many people don't and have zero issues, I was one.

[FaLKoN240]

Get rid of those Tein SS they suck, and are the WORST coilovers I've used in my whole life.

[bm3r]

Get rid of those Tein SS they suck, and are the WORST coilovers I've used in my whole life.

thanks for the info, ive read that they were great. what would you recommend in that price range? tanabe sustec pro soc? stance?


1. With said list, you'd be around 250ish at the wheels, which is still quite respectable. You'd pull a low 13sec run at the strip.
2. You don't need it.
3. Yes it will work
4. This should be taken care of in the wiring aspect...
5. Don't waste your money on a cheap ass manifold. You'll see minimal gains.
6. As said, mishimoto or whatever the hell its called is decent. I like having 2gals of coolant cycling through my motor (Koyo rad).
7. Yes, stock is fine. But if you're going in there to replace the one it comes with, save yourself the later expense of pulling the trans out again.
8. Yes, NGK heat range 6 or 7's will do just fine.
9. You'll hear minimal noise from the stock recirc'd valve. The HKS SSQV is good, but I recomment recircing it as well, although many people don't and have zero issues, I was one.


ok thanks for the info! the stock flywheel and clutch were removed from my list to cut out a good chunk of change. I was thinking of an exedy stage 2 clutch, but havent found the flywheel i want. what do you think?

[DALAZ_68]

my girlfriend also added, for every car part you buy make sure to do something nice for your girlfriend since she will have to put up with your piece of shit car. :bowrofl:

omfg :bowrofl:

[jr_ss]

thanks for the info, ive read that they were great. what would you recommend in that price range? tanabe sustec pro soc? stance?

ok thanks for the info! the stock flywheel and clutch were removed from my list to cut out a good chunk of change. I was thinking of an exedy stage 2 clutch, but havent found the flywheel i want. what do you think?

Tein SS's are a great coilover. Most people on here don't like them because they can't scrape frame rails with them. If you want a nice stance, more aggressive spring rates and valving than stock springs/struts and don't want to trash the underside of your car they'll do just fine. Not everyone is a drift fan boi... If however that's what youre going for, then of course sell them, otherwise I think you'll be good.

I think that clutch would be adequate for what you are going for. I think Exedy has a flywheel you can purchase too if you want to lighten it up. Remember, this is all based on peoples opinions, find out what YOU want and can afford. I purchased all my swap parts and upgrades first, the motorset was my last purchase. I would suggest learning how to wrench atleast a little bit as well.

[bm3r]

Tein SS's are a great coilover. Most people on here don't like them because they can't scrape frame rails with them. If you want a nice stance, more aggressive spring rates and valving than stock springs/struts and don't want to trash the underside of your car they'll do just fine. Not everyone is a drift fan boi... If however that's what youre going for, then of course sell them, otherwise I think you'll be good.

I think that clutch would be adequate for what you are going for. I think Exedy has a flywheel you can purchase too if you want to lighten it up. Remember, this is all based on peoples opinions, find out what YOU want and can afford. I purchased all my swap parts and upgrades first, the motorset was my last purchase. I would suggest learning how to wrench atleast a little bit as well.

yeah with the suspension setup I really want a smooth comfortable ride. I definitely do not want to slam the car. Actually a koni/eibach prokit setup would make me happy. But I like the dampening and height adjustability with the c/o's. I dont drift or anything crazy. its my DD

[Omegared99]

AHHHH i would have kept the BMW

[Tom25666]

that is a badass looking m3. but for 6k you can build a pretty stout redtop/blacktop or just buy a notchtop or rb. do as much as possible yourself; that labor at $40-$80/hr eats up the money. and i doubt you will ever need a stage 4 clutch.

[Walperstyle]

lose the labor costs, and learn something

[bm3r]

Thanks for the advice, but id rather spend $1500 for someone to do it RIGHT the first time. Im not going to take a huge risk of me or a friend(s) doing it over a shop that has done dozens of specifically SR swaps and has been doing it for 10 years! Its not worth it.

[Sil-Abc]

then ur never goin to learn about the car.

[roplusbee]

The internet is a powerful thing. Once you download the Factory Service manual, things get a lot easier. Couple that with google/search, most of the stuff can be done by you and a friend or friends. When you pay a shop to do all of your work (and haven't done that type of work before) you may not be able to identify any potential issues because you won't be familiar with the equipment/devices in use. Just food for thought.

[bm3r]

I know what you guys are saying. I love cars, have had 15 total and an 08 Ducati 848. Working on cars is not what I do lol. Ill do other stuff, like wash my car every single week. Wax it every 3 months etc...but thats it

[yokotas13]

Hey everyone, coming from an 04 M3 with $30k plus invested, im ready to start a new project with a budget. Ive been doing tons of research, check out my I have below:

-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost
3. 3" down pipe
4. FMIC-Greddy
5. Apexi N1 exhaust
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic)
9. Clutch lines and fittings
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed
11. Short ram air Intake-nope
12. Air conditioning to work
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller
14. AEM boost gauge/controller-go manual
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3-go used
17. Competition stage 4 clutch-go nismo copermix
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel-why?
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum
20. Fuel rail and injectors
21. Turbo timer-sit in yoru car for 20 seconds
22. Koyo radiator



my answers

[roplusbee]

<jack>

Grant. Dude, where have you been hiding?

</end jack>

I feel you on that man. Do what you do, just be prepared to put out the cash and search for a good shop to do the work or you will be having the work done again and again. That is what motivated me to work on my car myself.

[bm3r]

<jack>

Grant. Dude, where have you been hiding?

</end jack>

I feel you on that man. Do what you do, just be prepared to put out the cash and search for a good shop to do the work or you will be having the work done again and again. That is what motivated me to work on my car myself.

If I get a second car, I would explore the idea of working on it on my own. With one car its pretty hard!

[roplusbee]

I agree. My options were turn in my car to the shop and have them tear it up and take a long time doing it or go to the hobbyshop with my friend and do it ourselves. Usually worked out well.

[blackoutt]

I too started with a $6000 budget. I now have over $8k in parts, but bought a lot of worthless stuff that you won't need and started with a much worse off shell. Focus on suspension, and be realistic with your power goal for a daily driver, you might be able to pull it off with having shops do the work, but that's what will kill you. It basically cuts your budget into half labor, half parts.

[0wn3r]

Let's see how many more people will suggest:

A) Keeping the BMW you no longer have the option to keep
B) Doing the work yourself even though it's clear you do not prefer to

I consider myself extremely lucky to live close to 240sxmotoring. They help me out whenever I have issues. I'd highly suggest them for parts as their customer service and prices are outstanding. I think they're doing free shipping right now too?

Anyways, good luck with everything. You could always pick up used parts if you need to save $ too, just be careful with what ya get :)

[Prok0]

Leave the car stock except for sus and wheels, put 6k in your bank, do stuff cooler then cars.

words of wisdom.

[DJDANGER24]

Hey everyone, coming from an 04 M3 with $30k plus invested, im ready to start a new project with a budget. Ive been doing tons of research, check out my I have below:

-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost
3. 3" down pipe
5. Apexi N1 exhaust
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic) Clutch lines and fittings
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller-
14. AEM boost gauge/controller
16. GReddy type-s BOV
17. Competition stage 4 clutch-how much power do you plan to make ? twin plate or higher likes to break SR trannys
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel-comes with a clutch kit
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum
20. Fuel rail and injectors-are you going for 275hp? you dont need to upgrade
21. Turbo timer-so you look cool ? sit your ass in the car for an extra 30 seconds, done.
22. Koyo radiator



What I have listed is more than $6000, but I need to know which I can eliminate etc.? Remember my car is an Auto.
Would you go with a different SR swap?
I plan to keep the stock turbo, stock head, stock block for now.
My WHP goal is 275-300
Ive read that with the setup above ranges from 230WHP-260WHP?
TIA for your help!
ALso, get an S15 turbo if you wanna make more than 260hp. you dont need a fmic. stick with the smic and boost the shit out of it. did you already buy the lmgt4's ?

[timlush]

I am selling my 500hp RB25det complete setup for $6,000

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/288886-tw-500hp-rb25det-setup.html

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m129/xHeather35/14-1.jpg

[bm3r]

I too started with a $6000 budget. I now have over $8k in parts, but bought a lot of worthless stuff that you won't need and started with a much worse off shell. Focus on suspension, and be realistic with your power goal for a daily driver, you might be able to pull it off with having shops do the work, but that's what will kill you. It basically cuts your budget into half labor, half parts.

anything from my lastest updated list that you would remove?

Let's see how many more people will suggest:

A) Keeping the BMW you no longer have the option to keep lol!
B) Doing the work yourself even though it's clear you do not prefer to lol!

I consider myself extremely lucky to live close to 240sxmotoring. They help me out whenever I have issues. I'd highly suggest them for parts as their customer service and prices are outstanding. I think they're doing free shipping right now too?

Anyways, good luck with everything. You could always pick up used parts if you need to save $ too, just be careful with what ya get :)

thanks!

Leave the car stock except for sus and wheels, put 6k in your bank, do stuff cooler then cars.

words of wisdom.

what suspension ideas do you have? Tein SS, Tanabe, Stance etc...

ALso, get an S15 turbo if you wanna make more than 260hp. you dont need a fmic. stick with the smic and boost the shit out of it. did you already buy the lmgt4's ?

Is that 260 Wheel HP w/ the S15 turbo? The engine I want is the s14 sr20det black top with VTC. Doesnt it already come with the T28 BB turbo or is the S15 turbo different?

Yeah I have the LMGT4's and they are in excellent condition w/ new tires!

[Prok0]

what suspension ideas do you have? Tein SS, Tanabe, Stance etc...

Is that 260 Wheel HP w/ the S15 turbo? The engine I want is the s14 sr20det black top with VTC. Doesnt it already come with the T28 BB turbo or is the S15 turbo different?


Suspension, KW Variant 3's, and all peak performance arms, thats if you want to have a car that handles well isnt super low, and rides comfortably.
If you want to go booty low, get whatevers cheap and say fuck it.

S15 turbos are good for around 300-320whp with the right tune/boost/supporting mods..

S14 and 15 turbos are pretty much the same, except the S15 has a divider cast into the turbine housing. Buy an o2 extension with a divider and you essentially have the same thing with your s14 turbo.

But really, throwing money into cars is stupid. Do suspension/wheels/brakes and leave the motor stock, maintain it, and have a cool car you can autox or some shit.

To this day the most fun ive had driving an s-chassis was probably driving my buddies bone stock motor kouki that had coilovers, all sus arms, z-brakes all the way around, and some ok wheels/tires on a small road course. You can beat the fuck out of the car and not have to worry about anything popping, and even if the motor does let go its a 200$ motor.

Cars suck, built motors suck, shit pretty much sucks all around. Only time built motors and big turbos are cool is when your ballin out, got a daily driver, and dont have to worry if shit breaks/blows up. That or if your 15, in high school, read import tuner, and ride the bus to school.

[HaSo240sx]

Good luck with the swap man i spend about good 8 grand and did all of the labor my self i did suspenion,j30 diff,s14 sr,and basic bolton's, you will learn with owning a 240 your always broke,hahah at least for me.

[mrchomponthis]

sppppppoooon feeding. do research and get your hands dirty. your car will always need things to be fixed or replaced so you better learn soon guy.

[Walperstyle]

Thanks for the advice, but id rather spend $1500 for someone to do it RIGHT the first time. Im not going to take a huge risk of me or a friend(s) doing it over a shop that has done dozens of specifically SR swaps and has been doing it for 10 years! Its not worth it.

the sr swap is the easiest thing in the world. There is tech dvd's that can make even a chimpanzee can do it. The majority of engines are all the same, and the more you play with them the easier it gets, for every engine.

But I should have considered your BMW ownership. You are a 'different' type of car guy.

Have fun.

[blackoutt]

-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost
3. 3" down pipe
4. FMIC ebay ~$200 shipped
5. exhaust ebay or local shop custom
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump ~$100 with install kit
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic)
9. Clutch lines and fittings
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed
11. Short ram air Intake
12. Air conditioning to work
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller
14. AEM boost gauge/controller could go cheaper here as well
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU chipped ecu fine here as long as you're running parts that have been done before, conservative tune
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 could go cheaper here as well
17. Competition stage 4 clutch not needed
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel not needed
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum not needed
20. Fuel rail and injectors just get used bigger side feeds, clean them, new O-rings, and a bigger turbo? ~$200
21. Turbo timer not needed
22. Koyo radiator could go cheaper here as well



On top of all that you would also want subframe collars, various bushings, ball joints, rod ends, adjustable arms, mounts, and possibly new brakes to refresh the suspension and make the car driveable. In all reality keep saving, or start selling your body, I don't think you're quite there yet.

[bm3r]

Suspension, KW Variant 3's, and all peak performance arms, thats if you want to have a car that handles well isnt super low, and rides comfortably.
If you want to go booty low, get whatevers cheap and say fuck it.

S15 turbos are good for around 300-320whp with the right tune/boost/supporting mods..

S14 and 15 turbos are pretty much the same, except the S15 has a divider cast into the turbine housing. Buy an o2 extension with a divider and you essentially have the same thing with your s14 turbo.

But really, throwing money into cars is stupid. Do suspension/wheels/brakes and leave the motor stock, maintain it, and have a cool car you can autox or some shit.

To this day the most fun ive had driving an s-chassis was probably driving my buddies bone stock motor kouki that had coilovers, all sus arms, z-brakes all the way around, and some ok wheels/tires on a small road course. You can beat the fuck out of the car and not have to worry about anything popping, and even if the motor does let go its a 200$ motor.

Cars suck, built motors suck, shit pretty much sucks all around. Only time built motors and big turbos are cool is when your ballin out, got a daily driver, and dont have to worry if shit breaks/blows up. That or if your 15, in high school, read import tuner, and ride the bus to school.

how much more whp when I do the S15 turbo vs S14 Turbo?

Good luck with the swap man i spend about good 8 grand and did all of the labor my self i did suspenion,j30 diff,s14 sr,and basic bolton's, you will learn with owning a 240 your always broke,hahah at least for me.

I think I have factory LSD might hold off on the J30 diff

the sr swap is the easiest thing in the world. There is tech dvd's that can make even a chimpanzee can do it. The majority of engines are all the same, and the more you play with them the easier it gets, for every engine.

But I should have considered your BMW ownership. You are a 'different' type of car guy.

Have fun.

haha yeah Ive had 5 BMW's- 3 of which were M3's

On top of all that you would also want subframe collars, various bushings, ball joints, rod ends, adjustable arms, mounts, and possibly new brakes to refresh the suspension and make the car driveable. In all reality keep saving, or start selling your body, I don't think you're quite there yet.


Id def do all the susp components. Which bushings should I get etc? which brands? I dont want the car to creak, clank, or be all noisy

[Ben G]

I know what you guys are saying. I love cars, have had 15 total and an 08 Ducati 848. Working on cars is not what I do lol. Ill do other stuff, like wash my car every single week. Wax it every 3 months etc...but thats it

If you wanted reliability you shouldn't have gotten a 15 plus year old car that some one most likely raped before you, but forgot to mention when you bought it.

[Prok0]

how much more whp when I do the S15 turbo vs S14 Turbo?


I explained, they are both pretty much exactly the same minus the divider. S14/15 turbos will do anywhere from 275-320whp with the right mods and boost.

[0wn3r]

Not to rain on anyones parade here, but I'd stop throwing hp numbers out there. I'm running 15psi on my S14 SR w/ an S15 turbo and I dyno'd at about 240hp / 260 tq. Granted you don't need a tune for it, but still...a turbo upgrade wouldn't be the first thing I would expect to need.

[NismoDriverS13]

how about getting a life for that much???

again we dont care what u do with ur cars and money!!!

and if u gonna pay someone to install ur parts, then sure.... call me and i can take your money, i can install shit on ur car.

if i only had a quarter for everytime someone asks us to help them buy something. i think thats pathetic. u got money, but dont know how to waste it??? hahahaha. i wish i had that problem.

[bm3r]

Not to rain on anyones parade here, but I'd stop throwing hp numbers out there. I'm running 15psi on my S14 SR w/ an S15 turbo and I dyno'd at about 240hp / 260 tq. Granted you don't need a tune for it, but still...a turbo upgrade wouldn't be the first thing I would expect to need.

what are your mods?

how about getting a life for that much???

again we dont care what u do with ur cars and money!!!

and if u gonna pay someone to install ur parts, then sure.... call me and i can take your money, i can install shit on ur car.

if i only had a quarter for everytime someone asks us to help them buy something. i think thats pathetic. u got money, but dont know how to waste it??? hahahaha. i wish i had that problem.

I went to school, graduated with a degree, and have a well paying job. I have earned and paid for everything I have ever owned.

You have no respect. Get out of the thread.

[FaLKoN240]

thanks for the info, ive read that they were great. what would you recommend in that price range? tanabe sustec pro soc? stance?

I would recommend looking around or possibly buying used, if you have a budget going on used higher range coilovers is usually your best bet.

I would go at least for 3 way adjustable coils (Preload, lower perch, damping) coilovers over the SS style. I absolutely HATED those coilovers because the way you adjust the ride height is by moving around the spring instead of shortening the shock body of the car.

Tein SS's are a great coilover. Most people on here don't like them because they can't scrape frame rails with them. If you want a nice stance, more aggressive spring rates and valving than stock springs/struts and don't want to trash the underside of your car they'll do just fine. Not everyone is a drift fan boi... If however that's what youre going for, then of course sell them, otherwise I think you'll be good.

Tein SS coilovers are a great coilover IF you have no other choice in selecting coilovers.

As I said above the only way you lower the car is by lowering the spring's perch which really sucks and yes, even at maximum droop the car isn't that low which I guess is cool if you're into that, but it makes the suspension way soft and causes the car to sag and droop through dips in the road which ISN'T cool.

I hated the way the suspension traveled on those things and sold them as soon as I bought them.

Not only because of that, but because there are so many more options available for the coilovers we have available for our chassis.

If you're really worried about ride quality try the Stance LX+ or something and get the ride height you want and the ride quality you want.

You'd be surprised how comfortable you can make "race" suspension feel by not putting a ton of preload on your suspension all around.

And having the ability to go lower is always a settling thought. Just in case. Because eventually everyone wants to go lower. :l101:

[2fly2die]

legit as fuck

[0wn3r]

how about getting a life for that much???

again we dont care what u do with ur cars and money!!!

and if u gonna pay someone to install ur parts, then sure.... call me and i can take your money, i can install shit on ur car.

if i only had a quarter for everytime someone asks us to help them buy something. i think thats pathetic. u got money, but dont know how to waste it??? hahahaha. i wish i had that problem.

you've come into a thread on a forum specifically made to discuss cars and what people do with them...and you say that you don't care about what people do with their cars or money? Not only that, but you tell him to get a life. Meanwhile you apparently lack even more of a life supposedly than the OP has since you took the time to come in here and respond. You have contributed nothing useful at all to this thread besides letting everyone know that your future posts will probably be useless too.

what are your mods?

I went to school, graduated with a degree, and have a well paying job. I have earned and paid for everything I have ever owned.

You have no respect. Get out of the thread.

I listed my mods out in the thread already :) and +1.

legit as fuck

what does this even mean?

[bm3r]

I would recommend looking around or possibly buying used, if you have a budget going on used higher range coilovers is usually your best bet.

I would go at least for 3 way adjustable coils (Preload, lower perch, damping) coilovers over the SS style. I absolutely HATED those coilovers because the way you adjust the ride height is by moving around the spring instead of shortening the shock body of the car.



Tein SS coilovers are a great coilover IF you have no other choice in selecting coilovers.

As I said above the only way you lower the car is by lowering the spring's perch which really sucks and yes, even at maximum droop the car isn't that low which I guess is cool if you're into that, but it makes the suspension way soft and causes the car to sag and droop through dips in the road which ISN'T cool.

I hated the way the suspension traveled on those things and sold them as soon as I bought them.

Not only because of that, but because there are so many more options available for the coilovers we have available for our chassis.

If you're really worried about ride quality try the Stance LX+ or something and get the ride height you want and the ride quality you want.

You'd be surprised how comfortable you can make "race" suspension feel by not putting a ton of preload on your suspension all around.

And having the ability to go lower is always a settling thought. Just in case. Because eventually everyone wants to go lower. :l101:

True everyone eventually wants to go lower. Ill pass on the SS and look into the stance, kw, tanabe, etc thanks for the info

you've come into a thread on a forum specifically made to discuss cars and what people do with them...and you say that you don't care about what people do with their cars or money? Not only that, but you tell him to get a life. Meanwhile you apparently lack even more of a life supposedly than the OP has since you took the time to come in here and respond. You have contributed nothing useful at all to this thread besides letting everyone know that your future posts will probably be useless too.



I listed my mods out in the thread already :) and +1.



what does this even mean?


I saw your mods on page 2. I didnt see your exhaust setup. Do you have a 3": turbo out let, test pipe, down pipe and exhaust?

Some people are so immature. I dont even know why they post.

[nice_tan]

If you are looking for new suspensions. I am getting my R3 STD Coilovers soon. They are called Standard. Ignore the initials haha Hit me up if your interested in them. They are really known in Canada, Euro, and Asia. i got a new number. so just e-mail me [email protected]

http://www.std.com.tw (http://www.std.com.tw/)

http://www.std.com.tw/productshowroom/product_detail/product02_pic003.jpg

[0wn3r]

I saw your mods on page 2. I didnt see your exhaust setup. Do you have a 3": turbo out let, test pipe, down pipe and exhaust?

Oh I didn't mention exhaust in here? Anyways, I have 3" all the way back. No test pipe, but the hi-flow catco. Circuit Sports catback, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. I mean, it sounds pretty nice, but the quality isn't really there. It's more expensive, but maybe try the NICO BRM exhaust if they still have it. (I was purposely keeping the st0ck look, of course there are many other single tip exhausts out there that are probably better)

[clark]

landins13...i don't know why you think lmgt4s are worth 4k...

fyi, don't go too crazy on the engine...it won't be that much fun if you dont' have the suspension...

if i were you, i'd keep the sr as stock as possible, but freshen it up a bit, but get yourself the right suspension pieces, chassis stiffening/bracing, brakes, and LSD.

[bm3r]

If you are looking for new suspensions. I am getting my R3 STD Coilovers soon. They are called Standard. Ignore the initials haha Hit me up if your interested in them. They are really known in Canada, Euro, and Asia. i got a new number. so just e-mail me [email protected]

http://www.std.com.tw (http://www.std.com.tw/)

http://www.std.com.tw/productshowroom/product_detail/product02_pic003.jpg

I might go with a koni/eibach pro kit set up, not sure yet. I want a comfortable ride, and dont really care for how low it will go. If I do get coilovers it may be the KW 3's

Oh I didn't mention exhaust in here? Anyways, I have 3" all the way back. No test pipe, but the hi-flow catco. Circuit Sports catback, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. I mean, it sounds pretty nice, but the quality isn't really there. It's more expensive, but maybe try the NICO BRM exhaust if they still have it. (I was purposely keeping the st0ck look, of course there are many other single tip exhausts out there that are probably better)

Ive heard good things about the BRM exhaust. I might go with the 3" exhaust with the dual tips and 18" resonator to keep it quiet with a 3" test pipe.

landins13...i don't know why you think lmgt4s are worth 4k...

fyi, don't go too crazy on the engine...it won't be that much fun if you dont' have the suspension...

if i were you, i'd keep the sr as stock as possible, but freshen it up a bit, but get yourself the right suspension pieces, chassis stiffening/bracing, brakes, and LSD.

I will most likely do that

[bm3r]

What do you guys recommend for a manual boost controller and boost gauge? what do you think of world electronics?

Would you recommend running a stock SMIC over a Front mount with the mods I listed to save $$?

Also, is the Apexi short ram power intake worth it for the money in hp gains if any?

[S14_Kouki]

Idea. Save the 6k then save more and buy a hks tranny and build around that :)

[0wn3r]

What do you guys recommend for a manual boost controller and boost gauge? what do you think of world electronics?

Would you recommend running a stock SMIC over a Front mount with the mods I listed to save $$?

Also, is the Apexi short ram power intake worth it for the money in hp gains if any?

I've seen alot of people recommend Hallman MBCs...so I got the Pro Rx or whatever it's called. I'm not sure what's causing my slight spike though. When I boost it'll jump to 17psi real real quick then down to 15.

Ummm I guess you could use stock side mount, but maybe put in a temp gauge before you drive it to make sure you're not running too hot..

I can't really recommend a good "set" of gauges. There's some I find real cheap, then some I find real expensive...and the ones in the middle i just nit-pick on.

[Norrek4040]

LS1 w/Tranny =$3500
and the rest for installation!

[bm3r]

Ok I revised my list using some of your suggestions check it out:

1. S14 SR20det Black Top with VTC
2. Labor
3. Stock S14 Radiator
4. A/C to work
5. P/S to work
6. Short Ram Intake OR Stock intake (how much hp will I get with the short ram over the stock intake? I wouldnt mind spending a little extra for an ok gain of hp)
7. Auto to Manual swap and Parts
8. Boost gauge-What brand?
9. Manual Boost Controller-What brand?
10. HKS SS BOV-What difference would it make if I "recirculated" the stock BOV vs. getting an HKS? Will the stock BOV make a sound? Will the stock BOV work perfectly, what are the pros and cons?
11. Motul Fluids
12. New belts, hoses, heater hoses
13. 3" Exhaust
14. 3" Turbo elbow
15. 3" DP
16. 3" Test Pipe
17. Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
18. Stock S14 Clutch
19. FMIC-Would you recommend the stock side mount intercooler? would the stock smic function properly?

My main goal is to make 240-250whp and a very reliable daily driver on a budget. TIA!-JR


Few questions:

1. What will I dyno at to the Wheels with the setup above?
2. Will I need a Sikky thermalnator heatshield gasket and what does it do?
3. So a Miata battery will work rather than relocating the battery to the trunk?
4. Will my tach and speedo work after the swap?
5. Headers seem to be cheap, will I see a nice gain with the setup above?
6. Should I cough the extra bucks and get a new radiator? Will the bumper have to be removed if I install it down the road?
7. A stock flywheel that is resurfaced will suffice correct?
8. Will I need new spark plugs?
9. Will I still get a blow off sound if I recirculate the stock BOV-to save $$ rather than getting the HKS SS BOV?


Please post some dyno #'s, most graphs I see are with big turbos etc.

TIA!-JR


Made a few adjustments to cut cost for now, what do you think?

[jr_ss]

The stock SMIC should be discarded with any mod. They heatsoak and are not very efficient up to and around 250whp. I'd recommend an FMIC.

If you go with the KW V3's you'll love them. Mine are amazing and very comfortable. I haven't even adjusted the rebound/compression at all yet and love them. They go low, but not scraping the ground low, which is good for what I plan on using the car for.

The 3 gauges I would run, boost/oil psi/coolant. If you need/want it an EGT or Wideband, but not necessary on a relatively stock swap.

[Dazzla]

I'd do some suspension work first, then swap in a blacktop SR, and just keep it stock if you want a reliable DD.

[Red Dragon3]

I am kind of on the same boat as you. Just bought a chassis for $1200 and currently doing a swap.
Honestly $6000 budget is not much. Things will start adding up quickly. Trust me! I have currently spent over $4700 in parts (including chassis) and yet the car is not running. I will probably spend over $5500 to get the car running.
If you want a "reliable daily driver" then a motor swap is not for you. Cause "reliable" and "motor swap" dont go hand in hand. Things will break and you will have to fix it. If you want a "reliable daily drive" buy a newer car. Plain and simple.
However if you want to have a decent fast daily driver then do the sr20 motor swap. IMHO dont turbo the stock motor. A motor that is design for boost will last longer that a turbo motor that was design for n/a. Also other people are telling you to outrageous V8 swaps, dont listen to them. Cause if you dont have great mechanical skills and be able to fabricate your own parts then, its going to cost alot more money and time to do the swap.
I would also suggest doing the labor by your self with a help of a couple friends. Especially if your doing a swap, cause if it breaks, you know how to fix it. If your not doing the swap, then a motor swap is not for you. Just dont do it. Do some research and do the labor your self.

Your parts list
1. S14 SR20det Black Top with VTC - Yes highly recommend it, if you want more power!
2. Labor - Do it your self! or your budget on parts will be $3000 instead of $6K
3. Stock S14 Radiator - you can get a megan al 3 row on ebay for cheap
4. A/C to work - AC who cares!
5. P/S to work - You will need powersteering pump lines from DOHC ka24
6. Short Ram Intake OR Stock intake - Just get a good quality new air filter (short ram)
7. Auto to Manual swap and Parts
8. Boost gauge-What brand? - You dont need one for now, until you decide to up the boost. Get the motor to run first before buying one. Prosport makes a good gauge if your on a budget
9. Manual Boost Controller-What brand? - You dont need one yet. Get the motor to run first before you buy one.
10. HKS SS BOV-What difference would it make if I "recirculated" the stock BOV vs. getting an HKS? Will the stock BOV make a sound? Will the stock BOV work perfectly, what are the pros and cons? - IMO recirculate the bov. It will make the car run better. But stick with the stock bov with stock smic and get the motor to run first before buying one.
11. Motul Fluids - Motul is great but buy cheaper stuff first, to make sure your car is in good running condition before buying motul. You dont want to waste good fluids cause of a small leak.
12. New belts, hoses, heater hoses - you will need 3 belts, heater hoses and rad hoses.
13. 3" Exhaust - buy used or ebay
14. 3" Turbo elbow - buy used or ebay
15. 3" DP - buy used or ebay
16. 3" Test Pipe - buy used or ebay
17. Walbro 255 Fuel Pump - Recommend a new walbro pump.
18. Stock S14 Clutch - dont bother with stock clutch. go aftermarket stage 2 or 3. Spec clutch is good if your on a budget. You will need to machine your flywheel.
19. FMIC-Would you recommend the stock side mount intercooler? would the stock smic function properly? - Use the stock smic, just to get the motor to run first before buying one. Definetly recommend getting some sort of after market intercooler.

Some other parts you may need if you do a motor swap.
full gasket set
radiator fans - alot better than clutch fan
battery relocation or mini battery
oem 300zx fuel filter
spark plugs
water pump
thermostat
brake pads, lines
clutch line

For suspension work. Get some decent set of coilovers, dont cheap out on cheap megan ones. I am going with power by max coilovers cause i am drifting. Get one that suits your needs. Then get a suspension arm package. If your planing to just daily drive it then, dont spend tones of money on suspension parts, no need to buy spl parts.

Get your self some decent rims and tires. no point in modifying a car when you can't put the power down.

[0wn3r]

your BOV will still make a sound even if you recirc, but it's not the same as without recirc though. you don't want it to be loud anyways. trust me, RECIRCULATE the damn thing. :cool:

[Max_PSi]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned sticking with the KA. Its an automagic, so its prolly seen a lot less abuse then a manual car. I think you can keep closer to your budget if you go this way.

Swap in a 5-speed----can be found at junkyard or in the classifieds here
Injectors----S15 injectors, good to 300whp
New mani, scource out a good used T28----You can usually find one on here, or get a new S15 turbo maybe
Stand-alone ECU-----AEM, Nistune
FMIC----already mentioned Greddy setup.



Prolly missing some parts but you get the idea. I think this would be total-wise a cheaper way to go with parts