View Full Version : Clutch Pedal Not Coming Up
TheGreatNate
09-13-2009, 12:56 PM
My clutch pedal won't come up after it's been pressed unless I put my toe or hand under it and kick it/pull it up. I searched and came up with that it might be the slave/master cylinder so I replaced those and bled the hydraulics. I also saw that it might be the pressure plate on the clutch. So I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, everything. Nothing has worked.
So basically I've got no idea what else it could be and I am looking for suggestions. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
tf_90s13
09-13-2009, 01:03 PM
is the spring on the pedal still good?
TheGreatNate
09-13-2009, 01:17 PM
is the spring on the pedal still good?
It seems to be, once I put a little pressure on it to pull it up it pops back up to the normal position. It also wouldn't go into gear when the clutch was depressed.
I don't really have any resistance when pressing it down until I get to about an inch or two off the floor... Which is what initially lead me to believe it was a hydraulic issue. But replacing the cylinders and bleeding the system didn't help.
g6civcx
09-13-2009, 01:28 PM
Do you have the clutch damper? If so, you need to either remove the damper or use a power bleeder.
I recommend removing the damper.
TheGreatNate
09-13-2009, 01:29 PM
Do you have the clutch damper? If so, you need to either remove the damper or use a power bleeder.
I recommend removing the damper.
Is that what the name is of that box down near the slave cylinder on the clutch hydraulic line?
JEDIs13
09-13-2009, 01:35 PM
did you bleed your clutch properly? sounds to me like there is still air in your lines
TheGreatNate
09-13-2009, 01:40 PM
did you bleed your clutch properly? sounds to me like there is still air in your lines
I followed the directions in the FSM. There is no mention in there of "power bleeding" the system though.
JEDIs13
09-13-2009, 01:49 PM
when you bled the clutch did it ever get to a point where the pedal actually came up on its own?
jspeedm
09-13-2009, 02:02 PM
adjust your pedal.
TheGreatNate
09-13-2009, 02:08 PM
when you bled the clutch did it ever get to a point where the pedal actually came up on its own?
It has not got to that point yet. Bleed it further?
JEDIs13
09-13-2009, 02:14 PM
yup, im sure there is still air in there
g6civcx
09-13-2009, 02:16 PM
Is that what the name is of that box down near the slave cylinder on the clutch hydraulic line?
Yes, this box is called the clutch damper.
It's notorious for trapping air and is hard to bleed for the average home mechanic.
I followed the directions in the FSM. There is no mention in there of "power bleeding" the system though.
You are correct; however, the FSM is meant to be used in conjunction with field experience and a textbook, such as the ASE training manual.
You don't have to use a machine, but it will take about a hundred strokes to fully bleed the damper by hand.
Also, Nissan is not known for being very thorough in their documentation and design. The community comes up with fixes based on our own expertise and experience.
jspeedm
09-13-2009, 02:18 PM
did you bench bleed the master before you installed it?
iROYAL
09-13-2009, 02:28 PM
did you bench bleed the master before you installed it?
I never bench bled my CMC and it never caused any problems.
OP: If you need another clutch pedal, I think I have one I'll sell to you for cheap. LMK
Devil Man
09-13-2009, 03:04 PM
i have a very similar issue that i cant seem to resolve also... but the thing is i replaced everything and deleted the damper. im guessing i would have to adjust the pedal cause i have bleed the crap out of my system. just make sure you get back and say what your issue was if you find out OP and good luck
yokotavia
09-14-2009, 08:46 PM
it can take a while to bleed the clutch.
also sounds like your bleeding it wrong.
UNLESS your pedal is broken or some shit
jspaeth
09-14-2009, 09:29 PM
Just remove the damper.....I've never touched any of that stuff, and I did it for the first time last weekened....remove the damper, connect hard line to slave (directly or w/ stainless steel line).
Then, when you bleed it, make sure you close the bleed valve before the pedal hits the floor, then lift the pedal manually with the bleed valve closed.
This draws fluid into the line, so that it is filled with fluid with the clutch pedal up and clutch engaged.
Sooooo easy to bleed without damper box.
TheGreatNate
09-16-2009, 06:42 PM
i have a very similar issue that i cant seem to resolve also... but the thing is i replaced everything and deleted the damper. im guessing i would have to adjust the pedal cause i have bleed the crap out of my system. just make sure you get back and say what your issue was if you find out OP and good luck
I took out the damper as well. Unfortunately, I stripped the fitting on the hard line between the master cylinder and the damper when I was trying to take it apart. So, I also ran a new hard line from the master to the slave instead of trying to cut and flare the old tube. Then I bled the system, again...
The clutch pedal no longer stays on the floor, though it still seems to catch a little about an inch from the top of the range of motion. Not sure if that's indicative of more air in the line or if I need to adjust the pedal now that I'm minus the damper. But I have no trouble getting the car into gear now, so either way I'm pretty happy that I finally have my car back!
Does anyone know what's in that fucking box, btw? I'm curious what could go bad in there. I'll probably take mine apart but thought I'd see if anyone knew...
J90lude
09-17-2009, 12:18 AM
I got the same problem but Im to lazy to deal with it XD
chato de shamrock
09-17-2009, 05:31 PM
Just do an AT conversion and be done with it. :rofl:
projectRDM
09-17-2009, 06:03 PM
I took out the damper as well. Unfortunately, I stripped the fitting on the hard line between the master cylinder and the damper when I was trying to take it apart. So, I also ran a new hard line from the master to the slave instead of trying to cut and flare the old tube. Then I bled the system, again...
The clutch pedal no longer stays on the floor, though it still seems to catch a little about an inch from the top of the range of motion. Not sure if that's indicative of more air in the line or if I need to adjust the pedal now that I'm minus the damper. But I have no trouble getting the car into gear now, so either way I'm pretty happy that I finally have my car back!
Does anyone know what's in that fucking box, btw? I'm curious what could go bad in there. I'll probably take mine apart but thought I'd see if anyone knew...
The pedal should be adjusted *only* after it's been bled thoroughly, which as discussed takes a good deal of effort. I've bled one before for nearly an hour.
The damper is just a large chamber, it's designed to absorb shock from the clutch engaging to prevent a 'kickback' of pressure in the line. I've never experienced that on over a hundred 240s I've worked on, nor have I kept it on any of them after working on them. It's trash. Plus with it still in the system your bleed time is tripled in most cases.
Tantwoforty
09-17-2009, 06:43 PM
isit hard to press down or dose it just snap down after about half way...
remove the damper and re bleed the lines.
worked for me
jodett
09-21-2009, 12:25 PM
I'm having kinda the same issue. my clutch only comes half way up then I need to help it to come up the rest of the way. it just started today, so I'll try taking out the damper and bleeding the system tonight.
kingkilburn
09-21-2009, 10:46 PM
Every time my brother or Mom drive my car I get it back with the clutch pedal on the floor. It's never stuck on me so I've never been bothered to look into it. My pedal feels right and engages with in a couple of inches of the top. No sponginess.
idkmybffjill
slow40sx
09-21-2009, 10:57 PM
pivot ball?
MrFixIt
09-21-2009, 11:00 PM
Taken from here: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/273946-clutch-stuck-floor-after-driving-bad-slave.html
I know sooooo manny people, myself included, who have this problem. Incomplete clutch pedal return. I've heard a ton of oppinions on how to fix it. Some say bleed your system again. Some say you need a new master/slave. The most interesting solution I've heard of so far claims that a tiny plastic clip located somewhere up in the clutch pedal assembly breaks and you need to get a new one. It's apparently a $5 part at a dealership, a buddy of mine showed me one, still in the little nissan (http://zilvia.net/f/#) parts bag.
So basically, from what I've heard, it could be due to any number of things hahaha. Good luck with fixing it though. It does get annoying after a while...
jh3xp
09-22-2009, 12:34 AM
i had this problem. I replaced slave/master and it helped alil but turns out that the pedal bracket was cracked .
My shop teacher jus welded it back up and it never gave me problems again.
rage605
10-03-2009, 07:17 PM
Every time my brother or Mom drive my car I get it back with the clutch pedal on the floor. It's never stuck on me so I've never been bothered to look into it. My pedal feels right and engages with in a couple of inches of the top. No sponginess.
I just wouldnt let them drive your car anymore. No one drives my 240 but me! Muahahaha *cough*
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