Finished sr swap, weird wiring glitch

[turboKA]

This one's a brain boggler.

First of all, this is not my first sr swap, and I've never seen anything like this before. Basically when I take out the key, the car stays on for a couple of seconds, then kinda dies. The car does not just shut off, it stumbles till the engine dies. Then the EGI relay buzzes. I've checked and changed the egi relay, and same thing. If I run it without the egi relay and remove the key from the ignition, the car shuts off immediately like normal. BUT, the cluster stays on for a couple of seconds, then turns off.

What I did for the swap
Battery relocated. I grounded the relay box and just extended the positive wire.
E-fan connected to the "on" position at the steering column.

*And whatever that is doing this, it's also draining the battery if I don't drive it for one day. I thought maybe the ecu is staying on, but the ecu lights turn off when the cluster turns off.

At this point, I'm very tempted to run a switch for the battery, and a switch for the ecu.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

[lok]

This one's a brain boggler.

First of all, this is not my first sr swap, and I've never seen anything like this before. Basically when I take out the key, the car stays on for a couple of seconds, then kinda dies. The car does not just shut off, it stumbles till the engine dies. Then the EGI relay buzzes. I've checked and changed the egi relay, and same thing. If I run it without the egi relay and remove the key from the ignition, the car shuts off immediately like normal. BUT, the cluster stays on for a couple of seconds, then turns off.

What I did for the swap
Battery relocated. I grounded the relay box and just extended the positive wire.
E-fan connected to the "on" position at the steering column.

*And whatever that is doing this, it's also draining the battery if I don't drive it for one day. I thought maybe the ecu is staying on, but the ecu lights turn off when the cluster turns off.

At this point, I'm very tempted to run a switch for the battery, and a switch for the ecu.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

It is your fan being connected directly to the ignition source.

Use a relay to run the fan and the ignition source as a switch and not power for the fans.

[$nicklefritz]

power your fans from your fuse box under the hood

[chuki roller]

I had the same problem with my freshly swaped ka and I know this might sound dumb but check all your grounding points. Seriously check them, I found a lose dirty ground and once cleaned and tightened my egi has never buzzed and my car does not stay in the "on" mode any more.

[turboKA]

Thanks for your guy's input. I plan on buying an adjustable temperature fan relay in the future.

chuki roller - which ground was it that you found? was it a bad ground on your engine harness?

[chuki roller]

Thanks for your guy's input. I plan on buying an adjustable temperature fan relay in the future.

chuki roller - which ground was it that you found? was it a bad ground on your engine harness?


It was the ground that connected the the block, above the headers. but still check all others grounds. hope you get your car back up and running!